***Official Electronics Thread of Officialness (it starts off with lots of Nixie Tube Clock goodness

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aod
  • Start date Start date
Mynight said:
Post up a pic of said pcb along with what it is. I'm sure someone can point you in the right direction.
Click to expand...

Its a message display unit. It works off four 1.5v batteries and has a remote infra-red sensor built in that allows me to change the message via remote control.

It has a power management system built in that activates the message board when it detects vibration or motion via a vibration sensor and that allows me to activate or change the message. After approx 30 seconds of no activity, it shuts down again to save battery power and I believe that the shut down is done via the voltage supply through the infra-red receiver
The problem is that the motion/vibration sensor isn't sensitive enough and so i have to shake it for the device to wake up. What i want to do is remove the vibration/motion sensing all together...or by pass it so that the message board is live all the time and looking for a signal from the infra-red remote.
I did actually de-solder the vibration sensor and then shorted it to activate the unit but it still shut down after approx. 30 second so think that the IR receiver component may be putting the unit to sleep.
I am not worried about depleting battery power as I intend to link it to 5v usb.
So to summarise, I just need to device to be live all the time so that it is constantly scanning for a signal from the remote.
IMG_0148.jpg


IMG_0149.jpg
 
Makhaira said:
Need to see a circuit diagram. It's quite possible that you can pull one of those IC pins high or low to control the input from the sensor, but without a diagram I'm blind!
Click to expand...

I did email the manufacturer two weeks ago for details but had no response.

I think it just needs someone with some know-how and a meeter to work through the board measure the voltage when the devizes and live and when on standby
 
I'm hoping you brainy lot can help me. I don't think it'll be that hard.
Looking for an accurate PID and thermocouple (preferably one with a crocodile clip type end, for air temp), to control a 2kw hot plate.
There's hundreds of PIDs on ebay, but not sure which one I want. but can't really find any thermocouple.

I asusme it's just as easy as wiring the hot plate into the relay and setting the PID to what I want?
 
Last edited:
The very popular and hard to find Rigol DS1054Z oscilloscope can be bought for £248.57 if you apply the 10% discount "rigolcomp" at checkout - here.

I have no connection to the company and I'm fairly sure they aren't in competition with Overclockers in the oscilloscope arena so hopefully this post is acceptable.
 
After I bought a load of through hole components and an Arduino I decided that I need a power supply.

I could have got a cheapo one for £60-£100 but for the upper end of that amount I could build one myself which would be more fun. I wasn't going to design it all myself so I'm throwing "modules" together that I mostly got from ebay. I probably won't be the best but I made it myself.

Most of the parts placed in the case to get an idea of where things will sit.
WrQZALz.jpg
The two power supply boards are - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141725967537?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The transformer is from Maplin and is their 2x25V 300VA one, a bit overkill but at least it won't blow away in the wind.
The small green board is a cheapo Chinese ebay special 240V AC to 12V DC to power the displays and the cooling fans.

Marking up the front panel, the holes look a bit ragged but that's just the tape
WTKvDRO.jpg

Mostly together front panel
gR5ikYd.jpg

I still have a little to do but it's mostly connecting everything together.

I have the transformer, switch and fuse in the case and tested, the open circuit voltage of the secondaries were both 28V. I didn't trip the flat's electrics, the case wasn't live and I didn't electrocute myself so I must have got something right :)
 
Mainly powering little projects I'm working on and tinkering e.g I made a little piezo transducer preamp circuit that has been sitting on my breadboard for a while. Also powering RC stuff that I may be tinkering with where I may need a 12v supply for some things and 5V for others at the same time, that way I don't need to play around with separate power supplies, step up or step down converters or Li-Po batteries that may short on lose wires or just over discharge if I'm not paying attention to their voltage.

Yeah, the boards are 0-30V 0-3A voltage and current controlled boards.

As I learn more I'll probably modify or upgrade them, they should do fine for now though.
 
Rapid Online have (or had, last time I checked) a decent selection of PSUs, including a few in their bargain discount buckets in the shop. I've very nearly bought a good 5v one a couple of times.

/edit - Your link doesn't work, gives their custom 404 error.

/edit2 - You've fixed it, looks shiny!
 
Bazooka-joe said:
I think it just needs someone with some know-how and a meter to work through the board measure the voltage when the devizes and live and when on standby
Click to expand...

The chips on the right will probably be serial to parallel drivers for the leds.

the chip on the left is probably the controller.
at some point one of its pins will change state and the leds will go off.

you just need to probe each pin in turn to find that pin, and then cut the track and hold the track high or low with say a 10K resistor

(vague suggestion based on info so far)

If you don't have a meter, buy one, they are £5 from ebay and useful to keep in the car.
Although my first tinkerings were with an LED and a resistor to determine voltage level, but then meters were all £30 back then
 
I got the "I want to build something random" itch so decided to build a metal detector.

I bought a Surf PI 1.2 kit from www.silverdog.co.uk

Knocked the board together in an evening:
WEghid5.jpg

Wound the detector coil this afternoon while watching the rugby, I put some clear tape down, then a cross of double sided tape with a CD spindle case as a former to wind the coil onto. Hot glue was added as spokes as I went to keep it all together.
tMBEwA4.jpg

After about 30 turns I stopped and measured the inductance, it was very low at 160uH but I didn't have any more wire so left it at that.

I then added the pots and power cables to the board, powered it up and set the trim pots as per the instructions. Then came the time to give it an initial test.

As you can see it can detect all current UK coins at ~20cm which is pretty good. I didn't have any gold rings to see if it could detect them but it's not the end of the world.

I just need to cobble together a handle/shaft and housing for it now. I have a Crown Estates permit for detecting on the foreshore so next time I'm home I can go onto a beach and see what I can find :)
 
Nixie/valve question for you all.

The tubes I've got have flying leads rather than stiff pins on them, and whilst I could knock something together to physically hold the tubes, I was wondering if anyone had any part experience in mounting methods for the tubes?
 
Makhaira said:
Nixie/valve question for you all.

The tubes I've got have flying leads rather than stiff pins on them, and whilst I could knock something together to physically hold the tubes, I was wondering if anyone had any part experience in mounting methods for the tubes?
Click to expand...

google for "valve base" or "valve holder"

http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/images/T/B9asComp.jpg

Personally I'd use a conventional valve socket, push the thin wires right through the pin holes and then solder them to the individual base tags. Most of them have a standoff mounting.
 
Last edited:
Any suggestions where I can get a 20A NTC thermistor for a reasonable price? I have a faulty power supply, new ones cost about £14, so I don't really want to spend £6-7 on a replacement thermistor. Certain large component sellers offer a thermistor for £1-2 then slap on a huge handling or delivery charge taking the price to £6 plus.

EDIT:

Nevermind, sourced one.
 
Last edited:
Just had this pop up on the 'tube, figured some folks might be interested in watching how making nixie tubes has been resurrected.


Fascinating watch, looks like his work is pricey though, upwards of $1700 for a clock, but judging by the quality, very worth the money.
 
Last edited:
Over a year ago I grabbed this circuit and the diagram has been sitting on my desktop ever since.

flash-20161231-184823.png


I finally got around to building it today. I know it's not much but it's been a long time since I translated any circuit directly to a piece of breadboard. It worked first time!

no_flash-20161231-185002.jpg


flash-20161231-185025.jpg


no_flash-20161231-185002.jpg


flash-20161231-185025.jpg


no_flash-20161231-185002.jpg

etc

Mrs. Feek kept asking me what it's for. Well, apart from "because I can", it's obviously a battery tester. I've connected a AA battery to it and when it stops flashing, I know the battery has gone flat! At around 2mA/flash, it may take some time :)

flashy.gif
 
Forgot we had this thread - spent the last few days building this:

YAHsvNE.jpg

CiACUVQ.jpg

My own take on a pseudo-balanced headphone amplifier - works better than I had expected.

(I'd promised myself I wouldn't do any more big projects on prototype board - but here we are :S)
 
I need to replace a fried 7600pf 1.6KV MKP capacitor on a simple 12VDC to 230VAC inverter circuit but I'm struggling to find the right size. Will it be OK to use 0.068uf 1.6KV?

E: Or should that be 0.0068uf?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom