** Official Mayhems Development Log **

Hi all,

I was hoping for some advice please...

Soon I'll be building a system to use for gaming and work (photography)
3930K on a Asus Sabertooth X79, 7970 both will be watercooled with the OCUK V12 Kit plus an additional 140 rad in a Corsair 800D. Loop= Rez-Pump-360rad-CPU-140rad-GPU-Rez

I want to OC the cpu to 4.5Ghz or as near as, the gpu will have a small oc.

Would it be beneficial for me to use IDC? Or am I better just sticking with XT-1? if it would make a drastic difference with IDC I'll go for performance over cosmetic but if it's just a couple degrees I'll rather things look good lol

The blocks have blue LED'S so was looking for suggestions for colours to dye whatever goes in.... Play it safe and go for Ocean Blue or what else would look good?

Thanks in advance for any help :-D
 
pgi947 said:
Wow thats mesmerising, almost looks like clouds moving about in the res!!

Quick question for you Mayhems guys...

Decided to foray back into coloured fluid with clear tubing, currently have clear X1 in the system, how essential is it I get all of the X1 out of the system? As I have a large 4 component, 4 radiator loop I'm bound to end up with a little bit still in the loop. I plan to refill with some Pastel.
Click to expand...

You really need to flush you system well when moving from one coolant to another. X1 to pastel is fine if going to the same colour how ever going from colour X1 to pastel white is a nightmare as you need to flush the system for a good long time.
 
eagle2508 said:
Hi all,

I was hoping for some advice please...

Soon I'll be building a system to use for gaming and work (photography)
3930K on a Asus Sabertooth X79, 7970 both will be watercooled with the OCUK V12 Kit plus an additional 140 rad in a Corsair 800D. Loop= Rez-Pump-360rad-CPU-140rad-GPU-Rez

I want to OC the cpu to 4.5Ghz or as near as, the gpu will have a small oc.

Would it be beneficial for me to use IDC? Or am I better just sticking with XT-1? if it would make a drastic difference with IDC I'll go for performance over cosmetic but if it's just a couple degrees I'll rather things look good lol

The blocks have blue LED'S so was looking for suggestions for colours to dye whatever goes in.... Play it safe and go for Ocean Blue or what else would look good?

Thanks in advance for any help :-D
Click to expand...

IDC is excellent when used on GPUs and high head loads how ever if its not being used on high head loads X1 , XT1, Pastel are all just as good.
 
Cheers, so in short a little bit of clear x1 should be fine with 2.5L of non white pastel? Will save me a job flushing the lot :D
 
Yes X1 , Pastel and Aurora are all made up of the same base fluid so can be used with each other only XT-1 cannot be mixed with any thing else.
 
Mayhems said:
IDC is excellent when used on GPUs and high head loads how ever if its not being used on high head loads X1 , XT1, Pastel are all just as good.
Click to expand...

Would overclocking a 3930K to 4.5Ghz and a little GPU OC be classed as a high head load?

If not I think clear XT-1 with some Ocean Blue Dye will do the trick! :-D

What temperature difference would I notice using XT-1 over Mayhem Pure H20 with a bit of dye?
 
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Im cannot say what is high heat load and what is not, as ive seen systems built badly create a high heat load such as a one recently done by a so called reviewer who's heat load on his own system was pathetically bad, some one who built a similar system had 1/2 his temperature and the reviewer thought it was oky.
 
eagle2508 said:
What temperature difference would I notice using XT-1 over Mayhem Pure H20 with a bit of dye?
Click to expand...

Honestly you're not going to notice the difference in temps between water, x1, xt-1 and pastel. It's margin of error stuff if you're measuring in whole degrees.

If I was you I would go for x1 or xt-1 and hold off on the dye until later when you're sure everything is working out for you, so that your gear is easier to flush if you change your mind. That's what I'm trying with xt-1 atm.

If you want pastel then prepare well, it gave me hassle both times I tried to use it. I have 3l of pastel white under my bed that needs getting rid of come to think of it..
 
@OptimaLnrg what issue did you have. Pastel white should be fine normally. If you would like the product replacing let us know if you have the receipt for the 3 Ltrs we will help you out replacing it with some thing more suited to you needs.
 
Mayhems said:
@OptimaLnrg what issue did you have. Pastel white should be fine normally. If you would like the product replacing let us know if you have the receipt for the 3 Ltrs we will help you out replacing it with some thing more suited to you needs.
Click to expand...

I should clarify - The white was never used, I bought it and then decided I wanted black instead lol, I just won't be using it so I'll drop it off down the tip nearby as they have a chemicals bit.

As for pastel, I find that clear tubing generally sucks. So I've had problems where the tubing fluffed up completely (primochill pro lrt or w/e, which I made a thread about) and other types of tubing just do the general clouding as we all know.

For me the clouding isn't a massive issue with see-through coolants as the colour effect (if dyed) still retains some quality, but when I've tried clear tubing with pastel the clouding makes it look dull, so pastel black would look a dull dark grey colour.

That's why I would suggest anyone thinking about using pastel to prepare well - i.e research that tygon tubing you're reselling to see if it doesn't cloud, make sure they have fittings for those sizes, etc.

As it is I have invested probably somewhere in the region of £300-£350 on bitspower compressions that are too small for it lol (13/10)
 
That is excellent advise indeed how ever don't bin you coolant. Why not give it to some one (iuf the pay postage). At £15.00 a bottle it just seems a waste or if you would like send it back to us and ill give you a gift voucher and pass the coolant onto some who would like to review the coolant. Just seems a lot of money to throw away :).

TYhe best tubing we have tested so far is

Primochill "Advance"
Tygon E1000 (all there not perfectly clear)

Were testing some new tubing as well, we will post more info when weve finished.
 
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Hi Mick, I was just wondering if you could explain the lifespan of the coolants.

The Pastel is rated for up to 3 years while if using the XT & XT-1 it is recommended to change the coolant annually.

Does the Pastel contain extra additives? I was just wondering how life span is determined.

I recently bought 3 bottles of Pastel red, after filling my loop I discovered I only really need around 1100ml of fluid to fill the loop. Would I be safe enough to add 100ml of distilled water to the Pastel to make up the extra? Rather than open another bottle?

Thanks
 
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Bluntwrapped said:
Hi Mick, I was just wondering if you could explain the lifespan of the coolants.

The Pastel is rated for up to 3 years while if using the XT & XT-1 it is recommended to change the coolant annually.

Does the Pastel contain extra additives? I was just wondering how life span is determined.

I recently bought 3 bottles of Pastel red, after filling my loop I discovered I only really need around 1100ml of fluid to fill the loop. Would I be safe enough to add 100ml of distilled water to the Pastel to make up the extra? Rather than open another bottle?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Funnily enough I am wondering the same as far as distilled top up is concerned. Shall await the answer from the maestro.

Mark
 
The pastel coolant wont let light though there for the biocide and inhibiter's last much longer. Try shining a laser though the pastel and see what happens, its get blocked by the nano fluid :). XT1 and X1 both are clear fluids and let light though which destroys the inhibitor and biocide over time hence a much shorter life span. Btw its a little more complex than that but the basic fundamentals are the same :) . Don't you love science :) ...
 
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