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Is it still intended as a "show only" coolant, or would the smaller particular size mean it's now suitable for everyday use?
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Is it still intended as a "show only" coolant, or would the smaller particular size mean it's now suitable for everyday use?
We are in long term testing. We have it in a system that is stressing the hell out of it and seems to be running like a dream. How ever we cannot say as of yet if its long term until we have completed full testing.
Ill volunteer to Guinea Pig test it also if you want
Need to give my system a clean out and a refresh.
Hey guys, I have a question about the Pastel coolant.
I built my current system in April last year, used brand new Primochill Primoflex Advanced Tubing and EK Pastel white coolant and obviously new blocks, namely the Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos PRO for the CPU, and the EK Water Blocks EK-FC980 GTX - Acetal for the GPU.
This isn't my first WC rig, so I used my existing pump and radiators, these are 1x EK DCP 4.0 and 2 EK Coolstream 240 rads.
When I first got the system built, I flushed it all out with tap water running through the loop into a large bucket for a few hours, then used a 1:10 ratio of distilled water and vinegar to clean everything up for 60 mins, then used more distilled water and bicarbonate of soda to neutralise the vinegar again for 60 mins and lastly ran pure distilled water for 2 hours to make sure the loop was flushed of everything. I then added the pastel fluid.
The last few weeks I just noticed however the pastel has gone, I now have clear fluid... On the photos attached you can see straight through the tubes where I have squeezed them (first photo) but where I havnt (second photo) there is something stuck to the inside of the tubes, but as soon as you squeeze them it kinda washes away. Its not the plasticizer from inside the tubing as I know from previous experience with crappy tubes that its soft and squidgy, and doesn't just disappear when you press on the tubes like this stuff seems too.
I'm guessing the pastel particles have somehow fallen out of suspension, but the loop flow speed hasn't dropped so it isn't getting blocked, there are no tube kinks or 90 deg adaptors or anything, temps haven't risen and the fluid is being pumped at full speed all the time by the DCP 4.0 (4 litres/minute iirc, in a loop with about 500ml of fluid in it, so were talking about the entire loop being ran in under 8 seconds).
Anyone have any idea what's happened here? My current plan is to drain the whole loop, flush it all with distilled water, disassemble the blocks and clean them and then replace the tubing with solid white tube and Mayhems clear coolant. I like the pastel look, but right now it looks nasty
In comparison, here's what it DID look like.
I built my current system in April last year, used brand new Primochill Primoflex Advanced Tubing and EK Pastel white coolant and obviously new blocks, namely the Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos PRO for the CPU, and the EK Water Blocks EK-FC980 GTX - Acetal for the GPU.
This isn't my first WC rig, so I used my existing pump and radiators, these are 1x EK DCP 4.0 and 2 EK Coolstream 240 rads.
When I first got the system built, I flushed it all out with tap water running through the loop into a large bucket for a few hours, then used a 1:10 ratio of distilled water and vinegar to clean everything up for 60 mins, then used more distilled water and bicarbonate of soda to neutralise the vinegar again for 60 mins and lastly ran pure distilled water for 2 hours to make sure the loop was flushed of everything. I then added the pastel fluid.
The last few weeks I just noticed however the pastel has gone, I now have clear fluid... On the photos attached you can see straight through the tubes where I have squeezed them (first photo) but where I havnt (second photo) there is something stuck to the inside of the tubes, but as soon as you squeeze them it kinda washes away. Its not the plasticizer from inside the tubing as I know from previous experience with crappy tubes that its soft and squidgy, and doesn't just disappear when you press on the tubes like this stuff seems too.
I'm guessing the pastel particles have somehow fallen out of suspension, but the loop flow speed hasn't dropped so it isn't getting blocked, there are no tube kinks or 90 deg adaptors or anything, temps haven't risen and the fluid is being pumped at full speed all the time by the DCP 4.0 (4 litres/minute iirc, in a loop with about 500ml of fluid in it, so were talking about the entire loop being ran in under 8 seconds).
Anyone have any idea what's happened here? My current plan is to drain the whole loop, flush it all with distilled water, disassemble the blocks and clean them and then replace the tubing with solid white tube and Mayhems clear coolant. I like the pastel look, but right now it looks nasty
In comparison, here's what it DID look like.
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If use use the Blitz Pro cleaning kit that issue will go away, contact our support team over at www.mayhems.net they will assist you 
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.Its all to do with the contaminates in your system, flushing it our like you have said is not good enough.. Champlain direct to the rad makers look who simply do a bad job and cleaning them. The Blitz pro Cleaning system is the only cleaning system that actually does a proper job cleaning it out correctly. So much so some other OEMs are now using it to clean there own rads.
Ok I get you, thanks for the reply. It does annoy me that manufacturers (as a whole) don't clean there kit out properly. I thought the flush I did was reasonable, lots of junk did come out of the system and even then it was a days worth of work. You really shouldn't have to do that with brand new gear!
As a follow up, Mayhems customer support are sending our a support pack for me to clean the system properly, and have offered to replace the coolant with a different variety. Very happy with their advice, the issue would have just been blamed on me by 99% of other companies.
From my side, I have purchased 4 metres (for spares as well as re-doing the loop) of the mayhems tubing. I will be sending them fluid samples back from the current loop and also sections of the tubing that's in there so they can double check there suspicions about the cause of my issue.
The puzzle still remains, where have the particles gone!! I shook the system, had it at all funny angles and didn't see any of the particles come back. Weird! I'm guessing il find it all congealed somewhere in the pump, res or blocks when I break it all down for cleaning.
But regardless, top work from Mayhems so far.
Will see if the blitz kit, new tubing and new fluid keeps any future problems at bay. Il update again when all done.
As a follow up, Mayhems customer support are sending our a support pack for me to clean the system properly, and have offered to replace the coolant with a different variety. Very happy with their advice, the issue would have just been blamed on me by 99% of other companies.
From my side, I have purchased 4 metres (for spares as well as re-doing the loop) of the mayhems tubing. I will be sending them fluid samples back from the current loop and also sections of the tubing that's in there so they can double check there suspicions about the cause of my issue.
The puzzle still remains, where have the particles gone!! I shook the system, had it at all funny angles and didn't see any of the particles come back. Weird! I'm guessing il find it all congealed somewhere in the pump, res or blocks when I break it all down for cleaning.
But regardless, top work from Mayhems so far.
Will see if the blitz kit, new tubing and new fluid keeps any future problems at bay. Il update again when all done.
So, spent Saturday daytime taking the entire system to pieces, cleaning everything I could as much as possible by hand like the res and all the fittings. Ended up taking the CPU block apart as I could see lumps of stuff in there.
It seems the pastel particulate has somehow congealed, it was like a white cream stuck all over the place, very weird.
Anyway, this morning I put part 1 of the Mayhems Blitz cleaning kit in the rads, will be leaving it for the prescribed 12 hours and then carry on as the kit instructs.
Tonight's task will be flushing the system of the part 1, clean the GPU block, reassemble the entire loop and continue with the clean using the part 2 solution. Long night ahead, but am interested to see what rubbish comes out of the rads tonight!
It seems the pastel particulate has somehow congealed, it was like a white cream stuck all over the place, very weird.
Anyway, this morning I put part 1 of the Mayhems Blitz cleaning kit in the rads, will be leaving it for the prescribed 12 hours and then carry on as the kit instructs.
Tonight's task will be flushing the system of the part 1, clean the GPU block, reassemble the entire loop and continue with the clean using the part 2 solution. Long night ahead, but am interested to see what rubbish comes out of the rads tonight!
http://www.swiftech.com/h220x2.aspx proud to be apart of one of the best ever all in ones ever made.
Final follow-up. There was an absolute load of crap came out of the rads after emptying the step 1 solution.
The first 2 flushes with the step 2 were very blue as well, but 3rd flush was much less so. I did do a 4th flush too because I wanted too, then ran through all the rest of the DI water I had (bought about 15 Ltr's....) just as a final flush.
Had it running pump only with Mayhems XT-1 Clear in the loop and the system assembled to do a leak test overnight and all looks good. Do some final cable management this evening and should be back running. Will be keeping a close eye on the loop however to see if there's anything strange happening again.
The first 2 flushes with the step 2 were very blue as well, but 3rd flush was much less so. I did do a 4th flush too because I wanted too, then ran through all the rest of the DI water I had (bought about 15 Ltr's....) just as a final flush.
Had it running pump only with Mayhems XT-1 Clear in the loop and the system assembled to do a leak test overnight and all looks good. Do some final cable management this evening and should be back running. Will be keeping a close eye on the loop however to see if there's anything strange happening again.
Thats good to hear. A good clean is needed and some thing people tend to forget, its not there fault but rad makers for not using due diligence and explaining that there rads need cleaning. The blitz Kits are really effective so much so even OEM's use it in there own system to clean out the rads they sell.
Mayhems has been working hard on new Coolant technologies and direct correlation between high heat systems and ability of certain inhibitors, relating to low grade copper produced products and aluminium produced products.
With our new in house analytical systems we have discovered new formulation’s that can improve not only the heat transfer of the fluids but also prolong the life of low grade copper and “all aluminium” based fittings, blocks and components. It will also prolong the effective life of the new coolant based products.
The new high grade in house developed inhibitors create a more heat resilient barrier on the copper and aluminium to help protect them from degradation over a period of time and is geared towards small high heat creating systems such AIO’s, micro ATX / ITX systems (using small amounts of coolant) and also duel / triple based GPU high heat load systems utilising more fluids and low grade copper parts.
With the popularity of Small micro system utilising less fluids and also extreme high heat system out putting higher TDP / Wattage (support request driven direct from us) Mayhems is the only manufacture who create products based on what the customer needs and expects from us not what is the most profitable.
More information will be forth coming as we progress.
With our new in house analytical systems we have discovered new formulation’s that can improve not only the heat transfer of the fluids but also prolong the life of low grade copper and “all aluminium” based fittings, blocks and components. It will also prolong the effective life of the new coolant based products.
The new high grade in house developed inhibitors create a more heat resilient barrier on the copper and aluminium to help protect them from degradation over a period of time and is geared towards small high heat creating systems such AIO’s, micro ATX / ITX systems (using small amounts of coolant) and also duel / triple based GPU high heat load systems utilising more fluids and low grade copper parts.
With the popularity of Small micro system utilising less fluids and also extreme high heat system out putting higher TDP / Wattage (support request driven direct from us) Mayhems is the only manufacture who create products based on what the customer needs and expects from us not what is the most profitable.
More information will be forth coming as we progress.
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This is fantastic news for not only regular customers but overclockers, for overclocking even 1 degree can easily be the difference between a winning score and second.
This is something I have been looking for, for many years.
And on top of it not having to change fluid often is a major boost.
This is something I have been looking for, for many years.
And on top of it not having to change fluid often is a major boost.
Soldato
Just thought this will worth a watch with regards to all the color degradation with the Mayhems fluid recently.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DgK03Ie8vQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DgK03Ie8vQ
Did you watch it cos its not saying its the fluids fault he can not work out what is causing it