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*** Official Ryzen Threadripper Owners Thread ***

  • Thread starter Deleted member 66701
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even screwing the CPU into the socket was a nightmare to get the screws to tighten without flexing the mobo too much :eek:

I found it easier if I got each screw to bite 1/4 of a turn before fully torquing them down in the correct order. If you fully torque in one go in the stated order - i.e. 1 > 2 > 3 then the third one is almost impossible to get it to 'catch'
 
Soldato
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I found it easier if I got each screw to bite 1/4 of a turn before fully torquing them down in the correct order. If you fully torque in one go in the stated order - i.e. 1 > 2 > 3 then the third one is almost impossible to get it to 'catch'
That is how I did it in the end. 2 always went in fine the 3rd one was tough!

Now having lot of fun (NOT!) with Intel Pro WiFi AC-8265 BSODing on Win 7 before I can disable it & put the correct driver on via a slipstreamed image! AMD even provide a tool to do this but its hard work to get working already had to re reinstall Win 7 x64...TWICE! I know its an older OS but Win 10 I dislike greatly!!
 
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Soldato
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Even if Win 7 is a little bit better with some games, I'd stick with Win 10 personally. Win 10 optimised for modern/current hardware and especially mutl-cores IMO.
I've always found Windows to be a good progression. Must admit I wasn't too fond of Win 8 but 8.1 was improved. I find Windows 10 is a more natural successor to Win 7. I now only run Win 10 (three machines, multiple VM's).
Never had an issue with the screws with the Prime X399-A board I think I did screw 1 in a little and then ensured the others screwed into the threads before then following the instructions to tighten down fully in the correct order.
Can't really expect motherboards or CPU's of 2017 to be fully tried and tested with old OS's and supporting drivers working perfectly, it's really not worth investing the £ into. And as a buyer I'd rather not have money wasted on supporting old hw platforms either :p
 
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Even if Win 7 is a little bit better with some games, I'd stick with Win 10 personally. Win 10 optimised for modern/current hardware and especially mutl-cores IMO.
I've always found Windows to be a good progression. Must admit I wasn't too fond of Win 8 but 8.1 was improved. I find Windows 10 is a more natural successor to Win 7. I now only run Win 10 (three machines, multiple VM's).
Never had an issue with the screws with the Prime X399-A board I think I did screw 1 in a little and then ensured the others screwed into the threads before then following the instructions to tighten down fully in the correct order.
Can't really expect motherboards or CPU's of 2017 to be fully tried and tested with old OS's and supporting drivers working perfectly, it's really not worth investing the £ into. And as a buyer I'd rather not have money wasted on supporting old hw platforms either :p
MS effectively stole my retail £210 Win 7 Ultimate key as last night I managed to get it working with Win 7 Ultimate but then as you do around 4am :rolleyes: :eek: :( I decided to do 1 last thing and updated the Killer NIC drivers! This destroyed the system & when I rebooted MS took my remaining Win 7 Ultimate install & converted the licence key into Win 10 :eek: when I was repairing the install (which failed BTW). So either MS give me the W7 key back or I am going to get angry with them as I still want to use Win 7 it is possible I did it once last night but it takes ages to do :eek::rolleyes::)
 
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MS effectively stole my retail £210 Win 7 Ultimate key as last night I managed to get it working with Win 7 Ultimate but then as you do around 4am :rolleyes: :eek: :( I decided to do 1 last thing and updated the Killer NIC drivers! This destroyed the system & when I rebooted MS took my remaining Win 7 Ultimate install & converted the licence key into Win 10 :eek: when I was repairing the install (which failed BTW). So either MS give me the W7 key back or I am going to get angry with them as I still want to use Win 7 it is possible I did it once last night but it takes ages to do :eek::rolleyes::)
Why you still want to use windows 7?
 
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Why you still want to use windows 7?
I had apps which only worked on that but now MS appear to have improved Win 10 Compatibility modes so I have ditched Win 7 & gone with 2 x Win 10 Pro licences (as backup just incase). Its actually possible to destroy your Win 10 OS install if you have the Gigabyte Aorus Gaming 7 motherboard like I do. There is a setting in the Bios called Ultra Fast Boot. If you enable this it prevents PS2 & USB devices being detected until the OS has booted. This means if the OS encounters any issues booting you cannot interact with the machine until you have found a way back into the Bios setup :eek: found out the hard way yesterday this means a rebuild OS as no way to repair either!
 

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Pressing the reset cmos button when powered offwill let you enter the bios on next boot, no need to reinstall Windows.

A long power button press (10s) on power up will boot from the backup bios.
 
Soldato
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Pressing the reset cmos button when powered offwill let you enter the bios on next boot, no need to reinstall Windows.

A long power button press (10s) on power up will boot from the backup bios.
Tried both of those first The bios & backup bios were both corrupt so had no choice but to reinstall again :eek: After I reinstalled & reflashed the bios I saw settings which had gone missing...does not exactly give me confidence about this mobo being as stable as I would like it!
 

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The os has no effect on the bios and I've never heard of both bioses being corrupt. I'm not sure how you've managed that.

Also, you don't need to reinstall the os to reflash the bios. Drop a bios file onto a USB stick and flash through the USB port/utility.
 
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The os has no effect on the bios and I've never heard of both bioses being corrupt. I'm not sure how you've managed that.

Also, you don't need to reinstall the os to reflash the bios. Drop a bios file onto a USB stick and flash through the USB port/utility.
The reason it has happened is because the person he sees in the mirror did not know what he was doing...
 
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I added a couple of 960 EVO's to my system last night with the intention of creating a RAID 0 array. I decided to keep my 950 Pro as the main boot device and just use the array for high speed storage and I didn't want to reinstall my OS.

A few things I thought may be useful as most people tend to use the array as their main OS boot drive at the point of installation and I couldn't find any clear instructions to get the array visible on an existing Win10 install. Just a note my Win10 install is not the latest build as noted on the AMD page.

  • I created the array within the BIOS - straightforward no issues.
  • In windows the array was not detected (as expected) but the EVO's were listed in device manager as 'Samsung NVMe Controller' under Storage controllers.
  • Within the raid_windows10_f6_install.zip (from AMD) I extracted all the files and proceeded to update as follows:

  1. Update each respective 'Samsung NVMe Controller' with the 'rcbottom.inf'. This will then show as a AMD-RAID Bottom Device
  2. Reboot then 2 'other' unknown devices will be listed - update these entries from the same location with the rcraid.inf - this will then update these to show AMD-RAID Controller [storport]
  3. Reboot again and another unknown device will be listed, again update this from the same location and use the rccfg.inf - this will then update the device to AMD-RAID Array x SCSI Disk Device
If all has gone well you should see the following in Device Manager:

j6wJWnk.jpg

Reboot for good measure and then access Disk Management where the array will now be correctly identified and ready for use. Here is a benchmark:

yapWo3K.jpg

Couple of points:

- Update the drive firmware prior to creating the array.
- The devices will no longer be visible under the Samsung Magician software.
- Make sure you identify the correct device to update (I created a system restore point prior to this and had a backup just in case).

Hope this is useful.
 

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Hope this is useful.

Very useful :) I've just got a couple of 960 Evos to do exactly the same thing - keep my existing 960 Evo as boot and use the other two in Raid 0 for Adobe work.scratch disks.
 
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That app doesn't even see the drives, perhaps as i have them in Raid. :p

Can you download Atto and run the default bench, just click start? That way i can compared my scores.

https://www.techpowerup.com/download/atto-disk-benchmark/

Crystal Disk mark sees my Threadripper Raid array, it should see any disk with an assign drive letter.

Granted I have not raided my NVMe yet, will do next week but I have a few sata evos in raid 0, Also I have not tried 6, that is new, perhaps it has a bug.
 
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Caporegime
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I managed to get the version used above to run, but it looks just like a benchmark and nothing like the other version i downloaded which was blue/purple and looked more like monitoring stuff.
WGcfq2L.jpg
 
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Got a 1920X + Gigabyte Aorus Gaming 7 mobo from OCUK in the Black Friday sale. Incredible hardware :D :eek: but an absolute ball buster to setup for Win 7 x64 (I want 7 as well as 10 because 7 is still better for gaming). Also Win 7 updates are not blocked at all on a base build MS must have unblocked those now.

The latest AMD Drivers package also causes a nasty BSOD on a base build Win 7 install which was not fun took ages to fix & even screwing the CPU into the socket was a nightmare to get the screws to tighten without flexing the mobo too much :eek: Great hardware but I must have spent about 14 hours setting it up in all. I had even built a slipstreamed Win 7 image on a USB stick beforehand but it just ignored that could not find the drivers I had slipstreamed onto it so went back to my Win 7 Ultimate DVD & PS2 keyboard to get it to work!

I can see myself having this system for many years to come it makes Intel look like the chumps they have become offering sky high prices & less innovation! Long live threadripper & whatever next AMD can bring to the table :D

Just bought pretty much the exact same system and started to get BSOD's once I ran the Gigabyte installer CD. What drivers did you use to get a stable system in the end? I'm running Windows 10, but it seems like there's a critical fault with one of the drivers being applied.

From my research so far, it looks like the Intel Wireless driver is probably the issue. At least the system stays up for 5-10 mins before BSOD'ing, so going to try and disable the onboard wifi and use a ****** dongle tonight. Praying it's not something else to do with the 3466 CL16 B-Die ram I bought that's not on the QVL. Running at 2133 for now, mind.

I also had trouble with the socket, where the #1 screw was _just_ too short to grip the threads.

A BIG Warning: The Gigabyte X399 Gaming 7 board mounting holes are not ATX standard, where one usual ATX stand-offs is covered by the VRMs. It is the 2nd from the right at the top (looking down on the board). Be very careful with this when fitting stand-offs to your case, as this could easily kill your board....
 

Deleted member 66701

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From my research so far, it looks like the Intel Wireless driver is probably the issue. At least the system stays up for 5-10 mins before BSOD'ing, so going to try and disable the onboard wifi and use a ****** dongle tonight. Praying it's not something else to do with the 3466 CL16 B-Die ram I bought that's not on the QVL. Running at 2133 for now, mind.

yeah, it's the wireless driver causing the issue.

install this one.
 
Soldato
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Just bought pretty much the exact same system and started to get BSOD's once I ran the Gigabyte installer CD. What drivers did you use to get a stable system in the end? I'm running Windows 10, but it seems like there's a critical fault with one of the drivers being applied.

From my research so far, it looks like the Intel Wireless driver is probably the issue. At least the system stays up for 5-10 mins before BSOD'ing, so going to try and disable the onboard wifi and use a ****** dongle tonight. Praying it's not something else to do with the 3466 CL16 B-Die ram I bought that's not on the QVL. Running at 2133 for now, mind.

I also had trouble with the socket, where the #1 screw was _just_ too short to grip the threads. You have to apply a lot of pressure to the plate push down on it really hard to get it to grip!

A BIG Warning: The Gigabyte X399 Gaming 7 board mounting holes are not ATX standard, where one usual ATX stand-offs is covered by the VRMs. It is the 2nd from the right at the top (looking down on the board). Be very careful with this when fitting stand-offs to your case, as this could easily kill your board....
Yeah exact same issue. As long as you disable the Intel WiFi & the Bluetooth devices in Device Manager fast you have enough time to fix by installing that driver package amigafan2003 mentioned. Also install this pretty fast as well its the AMD driver package (newer than the gigabyte CD): https://www2.ati.com/drivers/amd-chipset-drivers.exe

Also get this installed: https://download.amd.com/Desktop/AMD-Ryzen-Master-for-AMD-Ryzen-Threadripper.exe
http://download.amd.com/documents/A...AMD-Ryzen-Master-Overclocking-Users-Guide.pdf
 
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Yeah exact same issue. As long as you disable the Intel WiFi & the Bluetooth devices in Device Manager fast you have enough time to fix by installing that driver package amigafan2003 mentioned. Also install this pretty fast as well its the AMD driver package (newer than the gigabyte CD): https://www2.ati.com/drivers/amd-chipset-drivers.exe

Also get this installed: https://download.amd.com/Desktop/AMD-Ryzen-Master-for-AMD-Ryzen-Threadripper.exe
http://download.amd.com/documents/A...AMD-Ryzen-Master-Overclocking-Users-Guide.pdf

yeah, it's the wireless driver causing the issue.

install this one.

Thanks guys, you're legends! Saves a lot of time fiddling about.
 
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