Porsche Owners Thread - If you own one or just like or hate them! :)

Simon said:
Millers also sponsor Hartechs racing team. It seems they are recommending a 10W-50. If bore scoring is the issue then viscosity is what is going to help here for sure but there are other products.

I'll ask Porsche next time I am there why they don't approve 10Ws. But I think a 5W-40 with Porsche A40 approval would be sensible if you are concerned about scoring.

My advice is a warning in case of problems in the future:
You will have issues with warranty if you are not using an approved oil. Porsche have a huge database of oil 'fingerprints' to check the oil from engines that are in for warranty claims. Will be very easy for them to decline a warranty claim.
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Not under Porsche warranty any more m8, so won't be making any future claims with them.

So I shall ask you the question, with the worries of bore scoring with these cars would you carry on using the Mobil One 0W-40 and changing every 5000 miles or would you use a different oil make or grade and if so what would your choice be m8?
 
The mobil is a good product but very thin. I think a Porsche A40 approved 5W-40 would be the right direction to take, their approval test is tough and, up to very recently, ran on an M96.

Base oil viscosity is important for avoiding bore scoring. If you are out of warranty and really dont care for approved oils then the 10W-50 could be an option. Although the -25C pour point suggests its pretty thick and then you may as well go for the BMW M 10W-60 which is one of the best oils on the market IMO.

Changing often is a good idea on hard driven cars as they seem to suffer from fuel dilution which will thin the oil and compromise film thickness on the cylinder bores.
 
Simon said:
The mobil is a good product but very thin. I think a Porsche A40 approved 5W-40 would be the right direction to take, their approval test is tough and, up to very recently, ran on an M96.

Base oil viscosity is important for avoiding bore scoring. If you are out of warranty and really dont care for approved oils then the 10W-50 could be an option. Although the -25C pour point suggests its pretty thick and then you may as well go for the BMW M 10W-60 which is one of the best oils on the market IMO.

Changing often is a good idea on hard driven cars as they seem to suffer from fuel dilution which will thin the oil and compromise film thickness on the cylinder bores.
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Seems like quite a few options with Porsche A40 grade at 5W-40, though there is no Porsche approved 10W-50 product:-
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-913-porsche-porsche-a40-engine-oil.aspx

Anyone in particular you'd go with, they all have good marketing spiel, don't suppose you know which one is the best or if there all pretty much the same?
 
Simon said:
The mobil is a good product but very thin. I think a Porsche A40 approved 5W-40 would be the right direction to take, their approval test is tough and, up to very recently, ran on an M96.

Base oil viscosity is important for avoiding bore scoring. If you are out of warranty and really dont care for approved oils then the 10W-50 could be an option. Although the -25C pour point suggests its pretty thick and then you may as well go for the BMW M 10W-60 which is one of the best oils on the market IMO.

Changing often is a good idea on hard driven cars as they seem to suffer from fuel dilution which will thin the oil and compromise film thickness on the cylinder bores.
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Slight hijack here, but I wonder if you would recommend a change to 10w60 for my BMW. I do a fair few track and drift days in it, and every time I have a loud top end rattle when restarting the engine lets say 20 mins after a session. I don't have have an oil cooler on the car, and I currently use 5w40.
 
Gibbo said:
Seems like quite a few options with Porsche A40 grade at 5W-40, though there is no Porsche approved 10W-50 product:-
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-913-porsche-porsche-a40-engine-oil.aspx

Anyone in particular you'd go with, they all have good marketing spiel, don't suppose you know which one is the best or if there all pretty much the same?
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Looking at the specs and tech data you can get an idea. It's hard to say which is best as I don't know how the other brands do in the test. However the products with VW 505 01, dexos2 give an idea on what they are based on, ones with mb229.51/5 too are ideal. It's hard for me to reccomend an oil without sounding bias/giving too much away

I use edge turbo diesel in my S2000 at the moment which meets Porsches approval

Clarkey, yes could be worth a try, sounds like the oils getting to thin and draining from the hydraulic tappers (assuming you have hydraulics on that engine?)
 
Porsche seem to acknowledge the issue with Gen 1 997's and I believe, according to our local OPC, that the Gen 2 seems to have the issue licked. It would be interesting to hear what they see as the route cause as that tends to be a little grey area. I would also like to get their perspective on the Gen 2 oil's usage as I believe they suggest a litre every 600 miles is within reason.
 
Housey said:
Porsche seem to acknowledge the issue with Gen 1 997's and I believe, according to our local OPC, that the Gen 2 seems to have the issue licked. It would be interesting to hear what they see as the route cause as that tends to be a little grey area. I would also like to get their perspective on the Gen 2 oil's usage as I believe they suggest a litre every 600 miles is within reason.
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Mine is pretty good on oil, maybe 1/2 litre per 1000 miles or less. In US a class action was won where 997.1 engines which failed or will are cover by Porsche even if out of warranty, so obviously an issue, it's rumoured to be upto 5% cars effected.

Got AM to dremel the bellow of my old Airbox and it fits perfectly over the X51 snorkel, so now it's only getting cold air. Noise and power vastly improved, get to dyno next weekend. :)

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Looks almost OEM :)
 
My fathers Gen 2 C4S is using around a litre every 1500-1800 miles. He has not needed to buy any oil for it as his OPC provide him free oil, but it is annoying him a little as he is not used to his cars using oil which his Cayman, M3 and a load of others before that never really did.
 
Gents, need some advice. If you buy a car from a 3rd party dealer or privately, can you still get a Porsche warranty on it? Is there a mileage cut off? I read somewhere you need to get the 111 point check done and wait 3 months or something before it will begin?
Was looking at this, seems like a nice example for the money but the mileage is a little high:

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif....4/radius/60/postcode/rg13dp/page/1?logcode=p
 
Up to 9 years old and 125,000 miles, yes you would need the 111 point check to be carried out first before getting the warranty, think you would have to have this done before you buy and then retested before purchasing the warranty, but some dealers can be negotiated with to do a reduced cost recheck from what I remember.
 
panthro said:
Gents, need some advice. If you buy a car from a 3rd party dealer or privately, can you still get a Porsche warranty on it? Is there a mileage cut off? I read somewhere you need to get the 111 point check done and wait 3 months or something before it will begin?
Was looking at this, seems like a nice example for the money but the mileage is a little high:

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif....4/radius/60/postcode/rg13dp/page/1?logcode=p
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Id not bother with a warranty. Just get the bores inspected, if no sign of bore scoring go for it and then maybe put it under Hartech maintenance plan, or just look after it. Bear in mind these engine can suffer from bore scoring and IMS failure, bore scoring you can check, but an IMS can fail at anytime with little to no warning, though in reality its a rare occurance. An OPC warranty is good by the fact it covers everything.
 
What about things like PASM, roof motors etc? An OPC warranty would be good to cover those sorts of things. I'd probably pay for an inspection on the car beforehand so bore scoring should be highlighted during this?
 
panthro said:
What about things like PASM, roof motors etc? An OPC warranty would be good to cover those sorts of things. I'd probably pay for an inspection on the car beforehand so bore scoring should be highlighted during this?
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It does cover such things yes, its the best option.
 
I think you have to wait 90 days between buying it and being able to OPC warranty it as well.

My advise is pay £200 and ask the current owner to book it in for the 111 point check. When it comes back you can easily see what is wrong with the car and if you decide to buy it pay the owner the extra and get them to put the warranty on it before you collect. As the warranty is then attached to the car you are fine.

Anything that comes up on the 111 point check can be used to negotiate with.

If you are seriously interested panthro my car is a 2007 Boxster S (3.4L) in that color and I've just had 2 years warranty put on it and a service and I would consider selling for the right price. In-fact my car is fully warranted until 18th June 2015.
 
Thanks for the offer Peerzy but looking for one with PASM and a sports exhaust; preferrably a sport edition. Its either that or a Z4 35i. Having a nightmare at the moment trying to decide on a car. I might have to start a thread :(
 
panthro said:
Thanks for the offer Peerzy but looking for one with PASM and a sports exhaust; preferrably a sport edition. Its either that or a Z4 35i. Having a nightmare at the moment trying to decide on a car. I might have to start a thread :(
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After buying my car I spoke to my dealer about the Porsche Sports Exhaust and even tested a 987 with it back to back with driving my car and decided against it for the £800+vat they wanted to have it fitted. It made little to no difference as far as I could see with regards to noise or throttle response.

I think my car has PASM :)
 
panthro said:
Thanks for the offer Peerzy but looking for one with PASM and a sports exhaust; preferrably a sport edition. Its either that or a Z4 35i. Having a nightmare at the moment trying to decide on a car. I might have to start a thread :(
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Make sure you get the bores inspected!!!
111 point check does not do this and its quite easy for any decent garage to do, best to always look at cylinder 6 as its the last in the cooling loop and is typically always first to suffer. So still a camera down it and get them to check, if its heavily scored, walk away!
 
Gibbo said:
Make sure you get the bores inspected!!!
111 point check does not do this and its quite easy for any decent garage to do, best to always look at cylinder 6 as its the last in the cooling loop and is typically always first to suffer. So still a camera down it and get them to check, if its heavily scored, walk away!
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How much does a proper inspection usually cost?
 
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