Project car boot

Squid in a string bag sounds about right lol :D. I bought a braid pack a while ago, lost most of the heatshrink tubing some how so made do with what I have, the front power buttons suffered from not having correct size heatshrink, sleeving is definately worth doing though going off some examples around, MrD springs to mind :), mine has much to be desired, need more practice at it :).

Here is the flat ide twisted, I then wrapped tape around it so it held it's shape & then forced the sleeve over :D.
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq59/waynio_2008/Bottominternals14.jpg

http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq59/waynio_2008/Bottominternals16.jpg

Sorry for the mini hijack, but you asked for a picture :p, urls instead ;).

Got 1 last update to come on the air cube still so check in around wednesday or thursday if ya interested :).

@Marvin, the tools aren't cheap neither eh, I'll be looking into the staple & pliers method when I have a proper go at it in the future.

@~TB~ :D
 
G-Dubs said:
So tell me your staple/pliers technique. It sounds a bit easier
Click to expand...

Basically (this is going to sound mundane), get your average staple (I've even used pre-stapled ones in the past) and bend it completely straight (pliers aid here). Make sure the staple is 'landscape' if you like (so you bend with the longer sides). Then place the staple on the end of the needle-nosed pliers and bend around so you have equal length legs that are exactly parallel (may need/want to experiment to get the right width for the connector). Push it into the grooves on either side of the connector, and then push the final bit with the pliers - it shouldn't take much effort. Pull the appropriate wire.

Works for me... (though I would have course use the tool if I had one)...
 
what's an IDE cable??

serously, I think they look very nicely done. I've followed that build and never even realised they were IDE
 
Decided I would dig out my old Tuniq tower120 and give it a bit of a modding to use it in the build.

Plan is to change out the fan for one with amber LEDs
give it a good clean
braid wiring
? re spray top orange (what do you think to this idea)???

Opened another thread as I'd like advice on what people think is a good 120mm fan with amber LEDs. I've seen a few but on closer inspection they appear to be amber plastic with white LEDs. I could re do the LEDs in the Tuniq but they are really well heatgun glued in.

Anyways got the tuniq apart, took about 3 mins!!!!




This is the top part i'm thinking of spraying orange







 
currently trying to re braid the psu and having a real sense of humour failure as the pins just do not want to shift.
 
Given up on the PSU for now and decided to crack on with the tuniq mod

Sanded for painting



As it's so hot I was able to get primer and top coat on in 1 hour



In the end the LEDs came out easy. just left the fan in the sun for a while and the glue became soft enough to just pop them out with a craft knife blade.

Think these are 5mm ones so will be ordering up (thanks for link tealc). I may need a bit more advice re soldering as i'm a bit rusty and don't want to melt the LEDs







The wires to the fan aren't colour coded so have peeled back a bit of the sticker. three terminals S, + and -. anyone tell me which colours these are on a conventional 4 pin fan plug???

with regards to the LEDS the white wire appears to be coming off the -ve terminal and going to the larger of the 2 elements in the LED itself. so is this the anode or cathode? and will it be the long leg or the short leg????

Tealc I sure hope this makes sense to you.

 
The Anode is the one with the smaller element inside the LED casing, this polarity is confirmed on the wiring into the hub of the fan, where the whiter wire is marked as -.

Most LEDs are long leg anode, so you will need to wire the clear wire to that and the White wire to the short. It will be neater to pre-trim the legs beforehand and rely on the shape within the LED body.

Make sure you pre-tin the bare wires and the legs of the LED as this will clean up the joints. Just warm them lightly and introduce a little solder. I usually use something to hold the workpiece in place while soldering, for an LED you can use the solder reel. Sometimes it'd be useful to have 4 hands when soldering.



They are indeed 5mm, the 3mm ones are more compact and lack the bullet shape.

Looks like these LEDs also use a resistor on the fan hub. This resistor will be suited to the blue LED of course but should be ok to drop the voltage for Orange ones too, which will need slightly less voltage.

When you attach all LEDs try running the fan at 12v and touch the LEDs to ensure they are not too hot. They will naturally give off a little heat.


Now I'm wanting some LED action in my case, and I have no window.
 
Last edited:
G-Dubs said:
and not forgetting waynio who's builds i have followed for a long time and who's knowledge of the AMD base is second to none
Click to expand...

Thanks :), but knowledge of the AMD base :confused:, been ages since I was on AMD cpu :D, although I'm pretty tempted by the six core 3.2ghz black :cool:.
 
Might have gotten you mixed up with someone else then re the AMD stuff, but kudos to you none the less

Mod of the tuniq is going quite well. Whole thing needs a clean up and LEDs soldering in to the fan but the spray job has gone ok I think.









Also wrapped the white ccfls in plastic wrap from craft shop (I used red as for some odd reason it was more orange than the orange wrap. Photos don't really do it justice as it's giving off a deep orange light.










The workshop with one of my wifes large canvases on the right (abstract artist)



The fair weather workshop. Too nice to play inside

 
It's raining where I live :(

Nice work on the cathodes. I tried doing that once but the light still came out the original colour (blue). Did you do anything special to get it orange other than wrap them up?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom