Project: Fractal S, dual 360 hardline loop in Blue/White
- Thread starter DBT85
- Start date
Ok, last cable made up, the 24pin ATX. I managed to put one wrong lead in the wrong hole so had to fiddle with some sewing needles to get it out but got there in the end! Note to all, just don't get it wrong in the first place!
Also my new res tube arrived and is now fitted and looks much better. Holes are also drilled in the case for the pump mount.
The front panel is deep enough that there should be 10mm space from the front of the fan to the back of the panel and lots of room all around for air to flow in.
The filter would be restricting the flow more than that.
Also my new res tube arrived and is now fitted and looks much better. Holes are also drilled in the case for the pump mount.
The front panel is deep enough that there should be 10mm space from the front of the fan to the back of the panel and lots of room all around for air to flow in.
The filter would be restricting the flow more than that.
pretty much yeah
Physically i think it will fit, then i plan on doing thermals under load with the cover on and cover off and adjust anything accoringlyI have to agree, with everything jumping into the back I am getting annoyed with the cables at the bottom. I'm considering cutting a bit of black perspex and bending it into shape. Been a while (like high school a while) since I've done anything like that so.... could be an interesting process
Mine are as well and tbhg might not bother me once the side panel is back ok
Ok,
I got the GPU block on last night after some faffing about and my first tube is bent!
Removal of the heatsink one from the Zotac was easy enough, however putting the new one on was a bit of a pain. I did notice that there was no TIM ona chunk of the chip as it came out of the factory. So Interested to see what this change might do for temps and clocks. I was able to hit about 1460 before IIRC.
First up I'd put far too much TIM on the block so redid it, next up I had secured the 4 main screws down to hold the block tight to the GPU as well as the one screw holding the block to the back plane. The problem was for some reason the backplane hole is slightly out of alignment with all the other holes, so with this in I couldn't secure down anything else. So I've gone without that screw so that the backplane and so on can be connected properly.
It's back in the rig now and running fine since at idle with no cooling its happy at 50c.
I also bent my first pipe which connects my 4 way block to my drain ball valve. Its not a perfect bend and there are some scratches on it from the fittings, but it's tiny, in the base of the case and may well end up being redone anyway.
Bending it I found easy enough, however getting the damned thing into the fittings required quite a deal of force. These EK HDC fittings are incredibly tight even without the compression seal. I just hope I can make all the other connections while its all in place, as this one was hard with it in my hand!
Rads are also emptied and washed through 3 times with a PH measure taken after the last. The 1st stage came out a little cloudy but not hugely with a couple of teeny tiny particle in from the rads. So it looks like EK get another point there.
I'll be bending more later to join the front rad, pump and GPU up.
Anyway. More pics.
I got the GPU block on last night after some faffing about and my first tube is bent!
Removal of the heatsink one from the Zotac was easy enough, however putting the new one on was a bit of a pain. I did notice that there was no TIM ona chunk of the chip as it came out of the factory. So Interested to see what this change might do for temps and clocks. I was able to hit about 1460 before IIRC.
First up I'd put far too much TIM on the block so redid it, next up I had secured the 4 main screws down to hold the block tight to the GPU as well as the one screw holding the block to the back plane. The problem was for some reason the backplane hole is slightly out of alignment with all the other holes, so with this in I couldn't secure down anything else. So I've gone without that screw so that the backplane and so on can be connected properly.
It's back in the rig now and running fine since at idle with no cooling its happy at 50c.
I also bent my first pipe which connects my 4 way block to my drain ball valve. Its not a perfect bend and there are some scratches on it from the fittings, but it's tiny, in the base of the case and may well end up being redone anyway.
Bending it I found easy enough, however getting the damned thing into the fittings required quite a deal of force. These EK HDC fittings are incredibly tight even without the compression seal. I just hope I can make all the other connections while its all in place, as this one was hard with it in my hand!
Rads are also emptied and washed through 3 times with a PH measure taken after the last. The 1st stage came out a little cloudy but not hugely with a couple of teeny tiny particle in from the rads. So it looks like EK get another point there.
I'll be bending more later to join the front rad, pump and GPU up.
Anyway. More pics.
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Could just be the pics but if you have a full cover block, I believe you need to take the black heatsink off the back of the card. Apologies if this is just a half-way through pic.
Getting the tube into the fittings, did you chamfer the ends of the tube first? If not it's hard to get it in and it can damage the o-ring. Also a drop of water helps it go past the o-rings too.
Getting the tube into the fittings, did you chamfer the ends of the tube first? If not it's hard to get it in and it can damage the o-ring. Also a drop of water helps it go past the o-rings too.
MotherF.......
I had exactly the same issue. Wish I had noticed this on my first read through! What bending rubber did you use in place?
I bought ek kit that has the small saw, 2 bending rubbers and some sandpaper. I'm guessing you realised at the wrong time!
All working great so far.
Sadly I've run into a problem in that the tubes at 500mm long are about 100mm shorter than the longest run I need. So I'll have to order some kind of coupler to join 2 bits that I've now made up ready. If course I realised this too late to get an order in for delivery tomorrow!
All the pipe bending has gone OK considering its my first time. The only waste peice I have is the little bend I made yesterday, and that's only because I've had to change my plan.
Never used acrylic, but petg seems easy to soften easily to bend and doesn't go manky if you have to soften again for adjustments. There is one bit I might redo from the cpu to the top rad, but it will work just fine as it is if I don't.
Just one more tube to actually bend now. Will get some phone pics later!
Also drilled out the bottom left lug hole that the front panel clips into. Now it's big enough for the tube to go through as my drain point!
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Depending what OCUK send me as a replacement I may look at this or the alphacool one from amazon.
I ran into the same issue. Im about 30-50mm off. I've went with one of THESE and another 90 degree fitting to stop me needing to go up then round and cut down the distance needed
I've also ordered a Male to Male connector so that I can go:
Barb fit <- Bulkhead <-Case Wall-> Bulkhead -> M-to-M connector -> Ball Valve -> Fitting -> Pipe
with the drain port and not need more fittings for the ball valve arrangement. Prob wont be done till next week so i'll post pics once I've got it sorted.
Mate of mine just lent me this for making the bulkhead hole
Step drill is your traditional tool for the job but that ought to work if you drill a large enough pilot hole. Might want to have a hoover running at the same time as that will throw out a lot more swarf than astep drill and you don't want it shorting stuff out.
That should do a decent job! Good lucky with whatever they send! I know EK do everything in metric where American based companies don't which is why there is some faff getting bits to match sometimes.
Really annoying that I'll have to wait till Friday. I could make the 70 mile trip up to OCUK but I've got other stuff I can be doing! I did call them at 5pm today hoping to squeeze in an emergency order but no help at all
I've had to remove the built in 140mm fan at the rear of the case and use a 120mm I had as it was the only way of getting the top rad in place and be able to get the fans on. With the 140mm fan there I had to make do with random holes in the vent at the top and I couldn't get the last fan in place as it interfered with the front rad.
Anyway, here are the two pics of it as it sits right now. I need a coupler and 2 fittings to join between the CPU and front rad, and then a couple of elbow fittings to squeeze the ball valve in where I want it. Pic quality is going to be pants until I get it running again!
Really annoying that I'll have to wait till Friday. I could make the 70 mile trip up to OCUK but I've got other stuff I can be doing! I did call them at 5pm today hoping to squeeze in an emergency order but no help at all
I've had to remove the built in 140mm fan at the rear of the case and use a 120mm I had as it was the only way of getting the top rad in place and be able to get the fans on. With the 140mm fan there I had to make do with random holes in the vent at the top and I couldn't get the last fan in place as it interfered with the front rad.
Anyway, here are the two pics of it as it sits right now. I need a coupler and 2 fittings to join between the CPU and front rad, and then a couple of elbow fittings to squeeze the ball valve in where I want it. Pic quality is going to be pants until I get it running again!
With no parts arriving today (due tomorrow) I bent the last bit of pipe I needed to do (4way block to pump inlet) and also took a moment to do the one for the drain that I can disconnect when not needed.
I also spent a while sorting out the cables on the back and stuff to neaten it up ready. Right now I just need to fit the ordered fittings and the whole machine is good to go. Hopefully Mr DPD will be early tomorrow.
I've also had what is probably a mad idea to try and bend a bit of PETG to look like a filament from a bulb, maybe to go between the pump and GPU. Would be easier with a longer bit of pipe and bending rubber but the EK one is quite short. Maybe it's something I'll tinker with.
Until tomorrow!
I also spent a while sorting out the cables on the back and stuff to neaten it up ready. Right now I just need to fit the ordered fittings and the whole machine is good to go. Hopefully Mr DPD will be early tomorrow.
I've also had what is probably a mad idea to try and bend a bit of PETG to look like a filament from a bulb, maybe to go between the pump and GPU. Would be easier with a longer bit of pipe and bending rubber but the EK one is quite short. Maybe it's something I'll tinker with.
Until tomorrow!
Thanks 
They are PE 360 rads, so 38mm thick. But if you're trying to get two 360s in there do check the dimensions. The only way these would fit was to remove the rear 140 fan and replace it with a 120. Had the radiator been about 2mm shorter at the fitting end it would have fit fine!
I'm also happy to say that the principal of my coil idea is ok. Though removing the rubber is...tricky!
They are PE 360 rads, so 38mm thick. But if you're trying to get two 360s in there do check the dimensions. The only way these would fit was to remove the rear 140 fan and replace it with a 120. Had the radiator been about 2mm shorter at the fitting end it would have fit fine!
I'm also happy to say that the principal of my coil idea is ok. Though removing the rubber is...tricky!