Project:- Liquid Skeleton

G-Dubs · 24 Aug 2010 at 20:53

Sorry for lack of activity, just waiting for my fittings to arrive at present.

Was originally going for clear tubing and yellow fluid but think the yellow might look like pee (anyone know a good strong yellow fluid?).

if not the above then Black tubing with Black dye, or possibly even clear fluid
(are the dyes really that bad for the health of the loop?)

Meanwhile a few night shots of the case.

G-Dubs · 30 Aug 2010 at 11:37

Parts due to arrive in the next few days or so.

I've opted for 1/2 ID 3/4 OD compressions in black nickel finish from Phobya.

I'll also need to use a fair few 45 degree rotary fittings, fortunately Phobya also make these in the same rather nice Black Nickel finish.

Fill port to match

Also decided on Black Primochill tubing and Black dye. I'd originally planned on clear with yellow dye or yellow tubing. However I discovered neither were a viable option as yellow tubing doesn't seem to exist (well I can't find it) and yellow dye has potential of making it look like somebody has urinated in my cooling loop

Fluid wise I'm undecided between these 2. Any thoughts???

So fingers crossed the parts arrive early this week so can start the plumbing.

Have to admit to feeling both excited and terrified at the same time.

G-Dubs · 3 Sep 2010 at 05:52

Cheers VooDoo
loving your build also
the rad will be mounted via a bracket onto the mesh side panel with the pump mounted on top using a mounting plate and a bracket ive fabricated, with all the tubes passing behind the case and in through the back. that way i can still slide things in and out simply by unclipping the side mesh

love the new sig, not sure but it might be a smidge on the large side though as theres a line/pixel limit

G-Dubs · 4 Sep 2010 at 15:11

Thanks for being so patient while I waited for parts to arrive.

I'm delighted to say I am now the proud owner of some very nice Phobya 1/2 ID 3/4 OD compression fittings and some 45 degree rotarys. I also have a 90 degree rotary and a fillport and drain plug (although as yet no T piece).

Now I have my parts I should be able to crack on so do please keep an eye on the thread for updates over the weekend.

A few pictures of the goodies.

G-Dubs · 10 Sep 2010 at 14:19

Sorry for the lack of updates recently. I have encountered something of a problem and have had to find a solution.

Basically the clearance on the input of the res/pumptop I have is about 2-3mm to small for the Compression fittings.

Spent a fair bit of time trying to work out what to do (remember i'm new to watercooling) and have eventually settled on using a Phobya extension piece to provide stand off of the compression beyond the base plate.

Not a very good photo as it just looks "close" in reality you can't get the thread to engage in the restop.

Also now have my tubing, fluid and anti kink coils. Continuing the Black and yellow theme of the original build.

Absolutely itching to get on with this now, just need that extension and i'm off!!!

G-Dubs · 10 Sep 2010 at 22:52

domthecondom said:
gone look like a constuction site

Yeah pretty much, but right from when I first got this case it just shouts "industrial" and "hazard" at me so the watercooling had to continue the theme. Kinda like the pompidou center in Paris where all the inside is on the outside.

G-Dubs · 11 Sep 2010 at 17:04

Phobya extension arrived in the post this morning and has solved the clearance problem a treat. Cracking bit of kit it is too.

Still not much clearance between the two compressions but I think it should be fine.

A 180 degree assembly on the end of the rad to take the feed from the res/pump assembly which will be mounted via a bracket on top of the rad.

I'm going CPU - pump - in through top of rad, out through the bottom - CPU.

G-Dubs · 14 Sep 2010 at 20:46

Going to be assembling the actual loop over the next few days, and as this is my first time I thought I'd ask if anyone has any pearls of wisdom for me. Things such as should I use PTFE tape and if so how much, should I leak test with distilled water before using the black coolant just in case I do have a major leak and need to drain in a hurry.

All advice gratefully received.

Meanwhile a few pics to give you an idea of how it's all going to go together

Using the phobya rad bracket and pump mounting plate attached via my custom bracket I've essentially fabricated a stand alone rad/pump/res unit.

Although quite robust this unit can then be attached to the side of the Skeleton mesh for added stability.

So next couple of days should hopefully see the tubing in and the braiding of the pump done. Then on to leak testing.

G-Dubs · 15 Sep 2010 at 23:00

Many thanks for the feedback. I'm really enjoying this project, and it's nice to know you guys are too.

Bit more work today. Pump/res installed and the loop assembled.

Due to the nature of this case and the way I have set up the loop I can cut everything to length, set up outside the case and leak test, then all being well just attach the CPU block and a bit more in case leak testing and I'm off.

As you know I've been using all Phobya fittings, with a mix of Compressions and rotaries. I have to say I've been very impressed with them. quality and finish are excellent and they are easy to work with.

So a few pictures to tell the tale of where I'm at.

Decided to use PTFE tape. A real relaxing and cathartic experience, much like braiding cables (seriously, very relaxing). obviously did it up tight, this is just to show the PTFE

Rear of the Rad (this 180 degree assembly sort of reminds me of a scorpion tail)

The CPU block with Phobya 45 degree rotaries and compressions

Shiny Shiny

First tube goes on

And then the other 2

More Shiny Shiny.

Leak testing to follow!!!

G-Dubs · 16 Sep 2010 at 15:01

Cheers Guys

Always admired your work, so praise from you both is praise indeed.

I agree re the coolant, having seen the water in it for leak testing I quite like the look of it as is anyway, that balanced with all the concerns re gunking up have pretty much swayed me to keep with water. I have deionised in it at present for leak testing but will replace with distilled as soon as I can find a place that sells it for less than the price of the equivalent amount of 15 year old single malt whisky

All that aside I actually have a more pressing problem in that 2 hours into leak testing the pump has failed. It's just stopped working!!! i've tried a different powersupply, infact bought a new bench power supply but no joy.

I wouldn't have thought there was much inside to go wrong but this one seems to have.

G-Dubs · 16 Sep 2010 at 20:43

Cheers for the support guys. i drained down this afternoon. It was actually quite easy as it wasn't in the case, although I have resolved that when I re-assemble to put a drain T piece in to make even easier. The Impeller seemed ok but a little stiff, I should add I have no idea how freely it should rotate. If I tried to spin it like a conventional fan there was a fair bit of magnetic resistance and it would stop as soon as removed the force from my hand. Don't know if this is how it should be.

there did appear to be a little marking on the PCB around the solder of the power and sensing terminals but this could have been at manufacture i guess.

having informed the retailer I got it from it is now on it's way back with the promise of a replacement on it's way back to me by return of post. No argument no quible just a "very sorry and send it back and we'll sort it for you" I can't mention the place as I'm sure you'll understand but I have been delighted with the service I have experienced.

The whole thing is a learning experience for me, Ok it's a bit frustrating but I've learned a few things I wouldn't have if things had gone smoothly.

On the plus side NO LEAKS!!!!

EDIT

Just realised I've passed the 1000 posts mark. I've been watching that counter creep up for ages and wanted to do a big "Ta Dah" at 1000 but went and missed it

Not having a good week

G-Dubs · 26 Sep 2010 at 11:10

Many apologies for severe lack of updates over the last week or so, i've been off on my hols.

The water pump has been tested by the retailer (no lengthy RTM process which was great). it appears the pump is actually fine as it has been run in another loop for over 40 hours with no problem, so problem must be at this end. All I can think is that the PSUs i've been using, which are the multi voltage sort you can get from a retail park shop that can't be mentioned must be at fault. Certainly I suspected this when the pump first failed but thought simple enough to solve so bought another as it had actually powered the loop for a few hours. The second one when attached would not power the pump at all so it was that which led me to think the pump must have failed.

Meanwhile a few pics of the leak testing before it was cut short. You can actually see the vortex currents in the res!!

On the plus side, having to drain down taught me a valuable lesson in that I really do need to put a drain T piece in. It wasn't actually that hard to drain down, but could have been much easier, and will certainly be nowhere near as easy or "relaxed" once it's all installed

G-Dubs · 27 Sep 2010 at 10:17

Got the pump back yesterday afternoon and fitted the loop back together yesterday and all appears to be sorted. looks like I actually had a power supply problem, or something related to that end as the pump performed fine when it went back to the shop and is now back with me.

I have to say the service I have received from the retailer I bought it from has been absolutely fantastic.

This time round i've used a molex from an old PC I have to power the pump so as to totally rule out any PSU issues.

Everything is now all plumbed back together and leak testing "take II" has commenced.

So far so good, and only a few thousand micro bubbles to get rid of

G-Dubs · 27 Sep 2010 at 11:34

Biffa said:
I hate leak testing. But after dumping half a loop of distilled over my 4 GTX470s and 1500W PSU recently I've gone back to being less cocky about it

Ouch!

Did they survive?

Shame you can't get PC insurance to cover such events in the same way you can for cars and buildings etc.

G-Dubs · 1 Oct 2010 at 23:18

Straz said:
Love this build, well done - loving the industrial look to it

Cheers Straz

Been really busy at work this last week so not much time to play, which means not much activity on the build.

Still, it's meant to be peeing it down all weekend so won't have to be outside mowing lawn etc and as a result can crack on with the Skelly.

still have drain leg to put in, but waiting for parts. meantime a bit of wiring and braiding of fans and control wires etc. Might even mod up a switch box fan controller.

G-Dubs · 2 Oct 2010 at 17:54

Unfortunately nice weather here today so spent a bit of time repairing the roof on the workshop as it was leaking quite a bit.

Also started work on making a box for the Zalman fan controller i will be using.

I plan to use it not only for the rad fans, but also the 3 other fans on the Skeleton build which are currently independently controlled.

Why make a box? Well the skelly only has 2 bays and they're both full, but also, it's in keeping with the modular theme of this project.

I've done a ROM drive mod like this a few times so hopefully this one should go smoothly

First off, get a real cheap old or dead ROM drive and take it apart (takes about 45 seconds once you've done a few.

The Zalman ZM-MFC1 plus. it's cheap, simple and good looking (bit like the wife)

Unscrew and remove the side tabs. The tabs are designed to fit directly into a drive bay so by definition will not fit inside a ROM drive case as this also is designed to fit into a drive bay.

This flap will need to be ground off

I'm planning to have the controller as a stand alone box on small feet (like a mini HiFi separate). Thinking of all black, but do you guys think a bit of yellow in there will work or not???

G-Dubs · 3 Oct 2010 at 11:06

Tealc said:
An external fan controller.....now where have I seen that before?

If it's external to your rig then I'd say it needs to be plain so as not to take attention away from the Skelly.

Not with you matey re seeing it before, think i must be being dim.

Done the dvd drive mod before though as you know if that's what you mean.

Agree re the plain thing though. think I'll go all matt black on this

G-Dubs · 3 Oct 2010 at 12:43

Cheers Tealc

Might have a look for it see if I can pick up a few pointers. I'm only doing it as the Skelly just has the 2 optical drive bays and thry're both taken so have no choice.

edit

Is this the controller you mean?

Mine's gonna be a bit more low tech than that....quite a lot more in fact.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BB-000-NX&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=189

G-Dubs · 3 Oct 2010 at 17:27

Spent the day extending all the wires on the fans so as to enable them to reach the extra distance to the fan controller.

Next job is braiding but have to wait for some dense weave braid as the stuff I have isn't up to the job.

Hard to keep the desk tidy when wiring!!!

G-Dubs · 6 Oct 2010 at 20:42

A mild evening + home a bit earlier from work = Dremel action in the garage.

Starting to turn the old ROM drive case into a bespoke standalone fan controller. I should point out that the magazines you see in the background are my wife's old Vogues which she binned but I use as a clean surface on the work bench

Flap has to go

So does part of the black aluminium of the controller fascia, as it sits about 3mm too proud.

Don't forget your goggles! I just put these down randomly after a cut with the dremel and for a few moments had the feeling I was being watched before I noticed what I'd done.

the fan controller NAKED.

All extraneous Knobs and excrescences removed

My braid arrived today, gone for the extra dense weave stuff. Also some modders mesh which unfortunately wasn't packaged very well and so was more than a bit mashed when it arrived :mad: