***Project Radbox!***

Very impressive! Just out interest whats your profession? You seem very adept at these custom projects and material manipulations, or is this purely a hobby - if so defo kudos points!!! :)
 
Cheers for all the nice comments.

Ok quick question for you peeps that understand electrics.

Am i right in thinking that a PSU has a constant live even when the pc is off? As the mobos have some led's that light up when its off but still switched on at the back of the PSU. My plan if its possible is to use this live feed to light one of my vandel switches which im using as the on button when the rad box is off like a standby light, then not sure if this is possible have it turn off once pressed by using a relay i guess then when the psu is powered up the second vandel switch im using as the off button will be lit.


Oh and heres my idea with the front. As i have no rig i only have XP paint to play with but i tried my best. What ya think and how would you change it?

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lastly a pic to show how good of a job leigh at Ignition-designs did for me. Cheers duder.


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This looks a lot like my first attempt at water cooling.

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Had 2x triples 120mm rads one front that you can see and one at the back both pulling air in, and out a vent on the top next to the printer.

I did it more because i was bored, switches were used to run it using only 1 rad or both rads, no fans and all fans and speed for the fans.
 
Bradley8988 said:
Am i right in thinking that a PSU has a constant live even when the pc is off?
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Yes, they have a 5v standby rail. Can't remember which pin it is but if you google for "atx spec" you can get a list of the pins and their functions.

Bradley8988 said:
My plan if its possible is to use this live feed to light one of my vandel switches which im using as the on button when the rad box is off like a standby light, then not sure if this is possible have it turn off once pressed by using a relay i guess then when the psu is powered up the second vandel switch im using as the off button will be lit.
Click to expand...

Connect the standby rail to the common contact on your relay. Connect the light for the "on" button to the normally closed contact and the light for the "off" button to the normally open one. Connect the coil to either the 12v rail or the normal 5v rail depending on the coil voltage.

The PSU requires the green/black wires to be kept shorted for it to stay on btw. I'll see if I can sort out a solution using some relays for you and post back in a bit.

edit: What terminals do you have on those vandal switches? A link to the switch specs would be handy if you have one.
 
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they have 2 terminals for the led and two for the always open switch position and two for the always closed. If you google vandel switch you should find some info
 
Temps were very good, but at the time i was going mad with overclocking so noise wasnt an issue although still no louder than a decent heatsink and fan. Cant remember what rads, they were very thick though.

As for the psu i had mine connected to the psu of the pc it came on with it but i fitted some capacitors and a relay switch so when the pc went off the pump and fans stayed on for 1 minute.
 
well I plan on crazy overclocks but going overkill on rads I hope slow running fans will keep temps good and silence. Cheers digital for taking the time to help me out.
 
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The extra diodes are there to drop the voltage a bit for the LEDs, you could use a resistor but the value would depend on the LED specs.

edit: added pic of ATX connector showing PS_ON and +5V standby connections, pic is looking at connector from the bottom (wiring side facing away from you),
 
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To digital the diagram is very helpfull but my mate is struggleing to source the correct diode needed as he does not have much experiance with them.
 
I don't know any specific part numbers but any silicon diode should do (the most common type). If you had the specs (voltage and current draw) on the LEDs in use I could tell you what resistor to use instead of the diodes.

Or if you want you could connect both LEDs permanently to the +3.3v line instead.
 
well I just tested the purple and earth with a 3v led and it blew but atleast it works and I didn't cut the needed cable off. I will try find specs of them but they run off fine off the same header on the mobo as the case led/hdd usage. I'm thinking it's 3v but will check for sure. Thanks for helping dude.
 
Ok I have had a guy who's very reliable agree with these been 3v. You wouldn't by any chance have relay and resistors I could buy off you or lemme know what I need to get as I really have no clue with electrics really. Cheers.
 
You need voltage and current to work out the resistor value. That's why I used a pair of diodes instead, they drop 0.65-0.7v each. Might be better off using 3 now that I think about it, if the LED won't light you can just remove one.

I don't have any components I could sell you, probably cost a fortune to ship them anyway (N. Ireland sucks for shipping rates :mad:)
 
Ok cool well I will see what my mate can find on the bay and post here once it's all wired up hopefully. Cheers for taking the time, has been very helpfull.
 
Little update my new old case is here. Cheapest case iv had by far but iv kinda become a noise freak now and with this came up for £35 with all sound proofing and the perfect size to fit under my desk i thought why not. I was going to keep it for a spare and not use it for ages but after another argument with my V350 i had to get rid of it. All ima do is make this as neat and tidy as possible so will be re braiding all the cables and running them all outa site so all your should really see is the tubing cooling the NB and CPU. So far iv removed the hdd cage as im going to use scythe quiet drives and given it a good clean as it was pretty dirty inside. Also started to mark where i need to do mobo cuts for the cables.

Few piccies.

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I would like to have the inside painted up a matt black but on a tight budget atm but if i get some spare cash will do it. The plexi should hopefully be delivered this week from the CNC guy.
 
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