Some great craftsmanship in this build Famas, and the wrap works really well adding that little bit of extra texture. Especially loving the front panel and top fan covers though, would never guess the front wasn't OEM unless you'd seen the build log!
Project Rainbow (ITX)
- Thread starter famas
- Start date
Just wondered, The PWM Fans is a Must have for that motherboard to Fully Control the RPM.
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Soldato
The new top fan grills in white are boss looking. Well done 
My OCD also thanks you, the black against the white and colour just didn't look right
My OCD also thanks you, the black against the white and colour just didn't look right If you do go with tempered glass, Do away with the remaining Metal side Panel & go full glass side for best effect.
Example Like the Raijintek Thetis Window with trim around the edge, You could use some of that nice shiny White panel Cover for trim strips?
mounting holes, Use the Holes that are already On the side, That size 3mm Glass panel be light.
Example Like the Raijintek Thetis Window with trim around the edge, You could use some of that nice shiny White panel Cover for trim strips?
mounting holes, Use the Holes that are already On the side, That size 3mm Glass panel be light.
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So it begins.
CPU, RAM and M.2 drive all installed smoothly.
Next was to fit the Eisbaer. It looks massive on an ITX board
I fitted the motherboard and PSU into the case easy enough. The SFF PSU bracket was a total pain in the arse to fit. really poor design by Raijintek there.
Eventually I got it fitted.
Before ordering the GPU I double then triple checked the dimensions on the official website and a few others to make sure the card would fit.
They all stated 266.7mm which although tight should have left around 10 mm clearance between the card and case.
As it is the card is larger than quoted and at first I thought there was no way it was going to fit.
However with a bit of perseverance and the removal of the front USB/audio ports I managed to get it to fit.
I had to remove the front of the case to get the card in as there is zero clearance. This means the motherboard tray in unsupported while fitting the GPU but as long as your careful it's not a major problem.
As you can see the card is touching the front of the case. Above is the power button, in front of that is where the USB/audio ports should mount.
The PCB for the USB/audio ports actually does fit into place but because the wires go directly downwards they hit the GPU.
And because the wires are so thick there is no way of bending them round.
For it to work I'd need the USB port wires to come out at right angles like shown.
The audio cable is fine as it has plenty of play in the wires where it connects to the PCB.
If any one has any suggestions on how I can overcome this that would be great, I'm all out of ideas
After that hoohaa I got all the power cables hooked up. Cable management is going to be a nightmare in this case, especially with corsairs strange modular cables.
And lastly the rad went in........just
Again zero clearance to get it in. I had to turn in 90 degrees and put the bottom of the rad into the case first, then stand it upright and swivel it into position being very careful not to lift it at all as it would hit the underside of the GPU.
Once in place there is about 3mm of clearance between the top port blanking screw and the GPU.
So that's as far as I've got. Believe it or not just getting to this point had taken pretty much a whole day and I'd had enough by this point.
More to come soon....hopefully
CPU, RAM and M.2 drive all installed smoothly.
Next was to fit the Eisbaer. It looks massive on an ITX board
I fitted the motherboard and PSU into the case easy enough. The SFF PSU bracket was a total pain in the arse to fit. really poor design by Raijintek there.
Eventually I got it fitted.
Before ordering the GPU I double then triple checked the dimensions on the official website and a few others to make sure the card would fit.
They all stated 266.7mm which although tight should have left around 10 mm clearance between the card and case.
As it is the card is larger than quoted and at first I thought there was no way it was going to fit.
However with a bit of perseverance and the removal of the front USB/audio ports I managed to get it to fit.
I had to remove the front of the case to get the card in as there is zero clearance. This means the motherboard tray in unsupported while fitting the GPU but as long as your careful it's not a major problem.
As you can see the card is touching the front of the case. Above is the power button, in front of that is where the USB/audio ports should mount.
The PCB for the USB/audio ports actually does fit into place but because the wires go directly downwards they hit the GPU.
And because the wires are so thick there is no way of bending them round.
For it to work I'd need the USB port wires to come out at right angles like shown.
The audio cable is fine as it has plenty of play in the wires where it connects to the PCB.
If any one has any suggestions on how I can overcome this that would be great, I'm all out of ideas
After that hoohaa I got all the power cables hooked up. Cable management is going to be a nightmare in this case, especially with corsairs strange modular cables.
And lastly the rad went in........just
Again zero clearance to get it in. I had to turn in 90 degrees and put the bottom of the rad into the case first, then stand it upright and swivel it into position being very careful not to lift it at all as it would hit the underside of the GPU.
Once in place there is about 3mm of clearance between the top port blanking screw and the GPU.
So that's as far as I've got. Believe it or not just getting to this point had taken pretty much a whole day and I'd had enough by this point.
More to come soon....hopefully
(1)Front Mounted USB's, Could try taking some of the Black Cable/Soft plastic cover off to make it really flexible like the Audio CABLE, Be Very Careful not to cut the wires inside.
(2)Otherwise, Remove the USB /Audio PCB Board & Mod/fit it elsewhere,
Like the side case panel behind motherboard tray.
Cover the old USB/Audio holes up with the White Shiny Panel Cover,
& Yep would mean Making new USB/Audio Holes on a panel.
(2)Otherwise, Remove the USB /Audio PCB Board & Mod/fit it elsewhere,
Like the side case panel behind motherboard tray.
Cover the old USB/Audio holes up with the White Shiny Panel Cover,
& Yep would mean Making new USB/Audio Holes on a panel.
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I thought about trying this but the 2 USB ports join into one cable so getting it round the GPU would still be tricky.
Ideally It wants two separate cables. I've tried searching for USB cables that I could mod but I'm not having much luck, can only find external cables.
Not keen on trying to move the ports any where else at this stage, too much work for what its worth.
Only way without much modding, Take the 2 USB's off the PCB Board & Get something like
A Cable I had for some time, would need to be modded at the side of the motherboard tray, Top Front Side Panel 4 screw holes.
The Rad, How about having on the outside rear & have only the fan inside, If you can with room under the PCI-E Brackets, The Fill Ports be outside for easy access?
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Cheers for the suggestions Darren.
No way the pictured cable will work with out some serious modding. Just not worth the effort at the moment, maybe in the future.
About 4 years ago when I finished swapping the soft tube to acrylic on my last build I swore to myself I'd never do it again. In fact before I started this build I intended to go back to air...and sometime I wish I did!
Luckily I had a lot of spare tube left over from last time. I'm by no means a pro but I'm fairly handy when it comes to things but these tight curves where testing my patience.
After many many failed attempts and a lot of wasted tube the first one was in. The pictures don't really show how tight the curves are and how little space there is to work in.
I thought the first tube was tough but the second was worse. I tried all sorts of different tube routing but nothing was going to be easier other than a lot of expensive fittings.
Another problem I was using push fit fittings which means you have to have perfectly straight ends to go into the fitting. With compression fittings you can get away with a very small amount of bend into the fitting.
The main problem with acrylic is once you've set one angle it's extremely hard not to effect it with heat if you have another angle close by.
Again after a lot of failed attempts and down to my last couple of tubes I tried something different, I heated the whole tube and did both bends at once.
Now i'd like to say it was skill but I'm sure it was just pure luck that it came out right and thank god it did as I was seconds away from ripping it out and going to air.
Filled the loop to check for leaks and thankfully it was okay.
While it's not the best looking routing and not how I'd imagined it would look I'm glad it's done and pretty happy with the results.
I quite like the way it crosses over like an X, a bit like the Alphacool logo.
Still I'm saying it now for all to hear....I'M NEVER DOING ACRYLIC TUBING AGAIN
I also added some rubber feet to the feet, which did make a nice difference.
And the colourful mess that is the cabling.
No way the pictured cable will work with out some serious modding. Just not worth the effort at the moment, maybe in the future.
About 4 years ago when I finished swapping the soft tube to acrylic on my last build I swore to myself I'd never do it again. In fact before I started this build I intended to go back to air...and sometime I wish I did!
Luckily I had a lot of spare tube left over from last time. I'm by no means a pro but I'm fairly handy when it comes to things but these tight curves where testing my patience.
After many many failed attempts and a lot of wasted tube the first one was in. The pictures don't really show how tight the curves are and how little space there is to work in.
I thought the first tube was tough but the second was worse. I tried all sorts of different tube routing but nothing was going to be easier other than a lot of expensive fittings.
Another problem I was using push fit fittings which means you have to have perfectly straight ends to go into the fitting. With compression fittings you can get away with a very small amount of bend into the fitting.
The main problem with acrylic is once you've set one angle it's extremely hard not to effect it with heat if you have another angle close by.
Again after a lot of failed attempts and down to my last couple of tubes I tried something different, I heated the whole tube and did both bends at once.
Now i'd like to say it was skill but I'm sure it was just pure luck that it came out right and thank god it did as I was seconds away from ripping it out and going to air.
Filled the loop to check for leaks and thankfully it was okay.
While it's not the best looking routing and not how I'd imagined it would look I'm glad it's done and pretty happy with the results.
I quite like the way it crosses over like an X, a bit like the Alphacool logo.
Still I'm saying it now for all to hear....I'M NEVER DOING ACRYLIC TUBING AGAIN
I also added some rubber feet to the feet, which did make a nice difference.
And the colourful mess that is the cabling.
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Can easily be 10 quid per fitting, it's a lot of extra cost I can't justify though would have made things a lot easier!
I've now also added a fill/drain port to the back of the rad. This is why I spent so long cutting the back of the case to give me access to the rear ports. Not the most elegant solution but it works well.
One thing i like about the push fit fittings is I can rotate the tube 360 degrees which helps when draining the system.
And how shes looking at the moment. Cable management is very difficult. I tried all sorts to route the 24/28 pin out of the way but its just too large.
Also because it splits 2 wires into 1 on a few of the pins it's a bit messy where it connects to the PSU.
though would have made things a lot easier!I've now also added a fill/drain port to the back of the rad. This is why I spent so long cutting the back of the case to give me access to the rear ports. Not the most elegant solution but it works well.
One thing i like about the push fit fittings is I can rotate the tube 360 degrees which helps when draining the system.
And how shes looking at the moment. Cable management is very difficult. I tried all sorts to route the 24/28 pin out of the way but its just too large.
Also because it splits 2 wires into 1 on a few of the pins it's a bit messy where it connects to the PSU.
O that is Cool & love the fill port @ the Rear,
Just looked at all the Barbs, They cost a lot, Back when I did full custom loops, all fitting was like 59p, 99p, set 6 barbs was £3.50.
Ah, Remember the Early Thermaltake Liquid cooling kits 8/6
Love the Build & Happy New Year.
Just looked at all the Barbs, They cost a lot, Back when I did full custom loops, all fitting was like 59p, 99p, set 6 barbs was £3.50.
Ah, Remember the Early Thermaltake Liquid cooling kits 8/6
Love the Build & Happy New Year.
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