Project: Self-Inflicted

Odd ! Maybe at some point I will re-read the Dianoga thread and see where it came from. I am certain Ross sent me something, might have been the pump/bay res. You sent me some fittings. Which I think you now have back lol.

Edit. I am certain the riser I have here is longer. If that doesn't float your boat I have a 30CM universal Phanteks one. ICR why I bought it but it's at Ma's.
 
The one I've got currently is a 15cm Phanteks 90° and that would fit with just a tweak to where (both :rolleyes:) the mounting holes are. I reckon their 22cm (next size up) would fit but it would need to be the 90° version not the straight. Top one of your pics wouldn't fit but the bottom would if it's the 22cm length. Swap ya? :D
 
ALXAndy said:
I am certain Ross sent me something
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The only goods exchange betwixt us were those premium EK glass badges you sent me for my brushed alu backplate ;)

If there's a change of heart regarding vertical GPUs, I have a few decent ones floating about after repeatedly buying the wrong things. Might have something which would work.
 
Hopefully he likes his women the same :D

If you can change his mind then yeah, we can swap. As long as I have one in the junk pile that's good enough for me.
 
Cheers guys, that's really appreciated. Having said he didn't want vertical (and me posted it) he then said he might :rolleyes::mad: but then decided he didn't after looking at some more pics.....mostly yours Andy, so it's clearly your fault! :p:D

I was looking at the one-to-one layout of the ATX lead and it does have one issue. You either lay your connectors the same way up and every single wire has to cross over side to side, or (like Silverstone have done) you flip it and then the top and bottom have to flip. Silverstone have done it in flat ribbon cable in groups of five. I was thinking of a PCB to do that swap - I do like to overthink things after all! - but I reckon (hope!) that with single wires, I ought to be able to cross-weave the top and bottom one after another as a crossover immediately after the PSU and then comb it as straight-through from there. I just can't buy something off-the-shelf and make my life simple, can I!? *facepalm*
 
I looked into a PCB for my own twisty issues after you mentioned it, and I'm not sure I know enough about PCBs to say but won't you need a boat load of copper to support all the Amps delivered by the 12V and 5V rails? My SF600 delivers 50A on the 12V rail, and of course that's for GPUs too, but I did some clueless reading and you'd need very wide traces with 2ox copper to pull it off. But then I see those right-angle PCIe adapters and think it's not as bad as I thought.

I'll save you one overthinking issue: do your ATX wires the same way I'm doing my 8 pin EPS. Take each vertical pair and cross them over, taking the top wire from the PSU end and cross over on the left of the other wire. Then put a comb over the end so you have the motherboard side tidy. That comb can then be moved down the length of the wires as much as you need to hide the interleaving.
 
That's pretty much where I was at on both topics Good to know I'm not way out on either! I reckon the interleaving will be what I do....but it'd be interesting to do a PCB! Must....resist :D
 
Alrighty, it's apparently now not windy enough for Parcel Farce to deliver the consignments in between loading and unloading the van :rolleyes:
This is the new toy I'd been waiting for. It punches a 20.4mm hole through sheet steel up to 1.6mm thick. Just drill a 10mm pilot hole and screw the two halves together. Why 20.4mm? Well the fitting needs just under 19mm so a bit of tolerance for bozo'ing the locations and also it's a size that might come in useful for wiring glands into cases. As you can see, the 10mm pilot hole cut through the edge; which made things....interesting. The hole punch also overlapped the edge but that cause any issues at all.



Trim the sharp corners off, a spot of deburring, a touch of filing, a dab of black paint marker (it's the gloss of the still-wet paint that looks like a raised rim) and here we are!




There was also the issue of the red bits on the motherboard clashing with the colour scheme. Who do I know that regularly puts paint on plastic successfully? Ah, my neighbour who's into Airfix! Turns out that purple doesn't go on many vintage war planes/boats etc but a mix came out alright. It's not as vibrant as the paracord but at least it won't clash. RAM sockets will be hidden once RAM is installed and trying to paint the actual PCIE slots just seemed like a terrible idea....but the latches, those were fair game! :D



Also, these arrived (sorry @LePhuronn !) :



The PA-09's do smaller crimps (fans and really tiny 1mm pitch) excellently but were struggling with the ATX pins - especially the longer rear wings and 18AWG silicone-insulated wire coming in at 2.3mm OD. Just mushed them unless I carefully trimmed down the rear wings and stopped a bit early. These on the 2.2mm jaw do a lovely job (click for larger pic). Front wings need a bit more work but this was just a quick test.
 
I already got me a PA-09 ;) After cashing in a few Amazon gift cards I earned through some silly Android games I only paid £15. Billy bloody bargain.

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Tidy tidy :)

I have also found that they mash up ATX crimps so I use them to crimp the wire wings just enough to hold everything in place before doing the actual crimp in my MDPC-X ratchet. Bu they are glorious on my Milli-grid, Dupont and fan crimps.
 
Image is missing in your post. Pics or it didn't happen! :p [Edit]Actually it shows up on a PC but not on a mobile. Odd[/edit]
That's exactly what I did with the EPS cable I had to make recently (board selfishly wanted two of them!) but not ideal if you have a full set of the things planned. That's what, 95 of the delightful things! The 21's boast they handle longer wings and that's exactly the issue I had. I'll try to get a decent close-up once I've got a really good crimp done :D
 
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Said I'd be back with a picture of a nice crimp.....I didn't promise that it'd be a nice picture of a crimp though! :D



That's the 1.6mm die for the front wings and 2.2 for the rear. Very happy with that!

Decided that the rad needed to be sprayed. Partly for OCD (alright, quite a bit!), partly because I thought it would show through the top grill and partly because I was concerned that it might corrode. The wind and rain finally subsided in my 'spray booth' so I had at it:

Before:


After:


This was just a rattle can of Wilko's satin black as recommended quite some time back by someone on the forums. Have to say it was a good recommendation as the can is still going strong and hasn't blocked like more expensive brands have.

Last thing I've been up to (apart from cutting wire and crimping) was an idea I had to cover the red in the unused PCIE slots. Have 3D printer, will churn out random ideas :D



Lower two slots covered:



The RAM slots will be almost entirely covered by the actual RAM once it's in.
Have also cut a tube for the rad to rad link. Going to do the 90 bend for that in fittings because I can....and because at the very top of the case, it's unlikely to be seen anyway. Obviously this turned out to require the one size of extension that I haven't got in stock. So that's in the post and so is the 18AWG wire for the ATX cable as I ran out :rolleyes: Should be 27m of the stuff in there by the time I'm done! :eek:
 
Got as far as completing one of the cable runs. This is the PCI-E 8-pin and you can see the rather helpful double-wire....because the pinout of the 8-pin PCI-E is stupid. Now that I've melted paracord into the ends of the pins, I've also discovered that the purple paracord (the major colour in this set of wiring) is of delightful quality. It doesn't so much melt as burn; it's the only one I've ever had trouble with letting go of the pin when you stretch the other end. Still, I wasn't expecting this to be easy or anything! :D

 
What do you think of them sense wires?! :D Three of 'em hiding in there :eek:



The other end isn't as neat because of the interleave. I'll get a pic of that once I have the sense plug on that end; currently it's a ATX plug with three wires hanging out the side.....and I've (temporarily) run out of enthusiasm to finish it off :p
 
I'll add this one to show what I did:



Cut the end of the sense wire at an angle and trimmed out the metal so it didn't snag. Made it sort of like a needle. Already tested that I can get an AWG26 wire crimped into a pin. Added a sleeve of the insulation from some AWG18 so the rear wings could grip but the front wings were no trouble at all.
 
Nice job. I went the other route.

Stripped 1cm of insulation from the main wire about 6cm from the PSU side and used the grip half of an ATX pin to crimp the sense wire in. Then sleeved all 3 sides. That way I can get the twists and interleaving sorted out and hidden before the 31 cables leave the PSU chamber.

I would show you but things are in pieces again. I need to do some annoying routing of the 14 GPU cables before I can commit the twists and interleaving of the ATX and EPS power. But I can't do the GPU until I get my Titan blocked up again to see how I'm routing power. But I'm also working on a mod for the Titan block since the rubbish paint job flaked off that may also cure my horrid sag, and I need to do that first because it will influence the cable routing.

But all I've done with my annual leave is sleep so far, and frankly it's too cold in my house to be manually cutting and shaping 2mm thick stainless steel plate.
 
LePhuronn said:
I would show you but things are in pieces again.
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Ahh, that's a familiar situation! :D I think i get it though. Those thin sense wires on mine leave the sleeve at the MB end, traverse the ATX shell hiding between the top and bottom sleeves and then all three enter a sleeve where there was no wire and held at each end by fake pins. Only possible as there was an absent wire. Probably not necessary either but I figured I'd give it a try and I can always disconnect them at worst - the PSU runs without them.
Your setup with its more severe space constraints is far less forgiving!

LePhuronn said:
But all I've done with my annual leave is sleep so far, and frankly it's too cold in my house to be manually cutting and shaping 2mm thick stainless steel plate.
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Well, it'd certainly warm you up! I had to rebuild my bench vise and make a new, straight handle after using it with a bending die to bend about 600mm wide of that stuff. It's pretty tough!
 
Before I had my custom DDC top done, I made a replacement cover plate for my Aquacomputer DDC top. That's only about 60x50mm at 1.5mm thick stainless but took me about 4 hours just to cut it out of a bigger piece and then match the two curved edges. And went through about 6 HSS drill bits and 100ml cutting oil just for 4 holes because I didn't have any tin or cobalt bits.

So yeah, not looking forward to making a full cover plate for a GPU out of 2mm sheet! Honestly not sure my back and neck could handle it, and also not confident my crappy wrists could be tidy enough with the Dremel. Need to buy a sacrificial countersink bit for it too.
 
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