* Project Teg *

Hmmmm.

Any idea on how to get the spindle nut off, so I can slide out the driveshaft from teh hub assembly?

Car is on the ground with suspension back on (meh) and I just can't shift the damn thing. I'm presuming I need 3ft of pipe to go over the breaker bar and to jump up and down!
 
Have you unstaked it?

Big breaker bar type arrangement, screwdriver in brake disk slot with galilee stopping rotation, jack under to arm so there is no give. Apply lots of force, I usually end up standing on it until it goes, can also be worth sitting the socket/extension on a a le stand to stop it rolling off the nut.
 
Yup unstaked.

Will get an arrangment going to stop teh socket rolling off as that happened and will go find some piping if possible. And I'll do it after dinner so I'm heavier :D

Cheers
 
Trolley jack or axle stand under the socket is vital to ensure all you are doing is rotating the socket and not trying to 'bend' the socket off.

Me and Jonny are the experts of driveway mechanics due to experience.

Does the hub need to come off ?
 
Been trying it on the ground with the weight of the car loading it up nicely, but this method will not allow an axle stand or jack to ge close enough to the socket area.

You guys are most definately the experts and I am the young paduan :D

Hub needs to come off as I have now ball joints coming to install, plus inted to treat the knuckle assembly with Deox-C and get it protected as it really needs it.

Starting to think my breaker bar really ins't up to the job!
 
Cheers for that, good to get an idea what others have used and succeeded with. The breaker bar is an 18inch jobby but not particularly big tbh.

Might have to pop down to halfords tomorrow and pickup a 24inch bar (unsing the 310 voucher I got the other day) and find some scafold pipe as an extension.

Or just give up and spend the monies on an impact wrench electric or for the compressor, although not sure my compressor is up to the job tbh.
 
So you've got the weight of the car on it...I'm assuming the wheel is on, and the car's on the ground? long bit of pipe, just lift it up and over :)
 
Yup, on ground with handbrake on.

Wish it was as simple as lift it up and over, but I did managed to move the car forwards with just me pulling on this bar. Freefaller would be proud of me :D

Got a tenner voucher for halfords so might go get their bigger beaker bar for £17 and try to find some scaffolding pole.
 
-Ad- said:
Yup, on ground with handbrake on.

Wish it was as simple as lift it up and over, but I did managed to move the car forwards with just me pulling on this bar. Freefaller would be proud of me :D

Got a tenner voucher for halfords so might go get their bigger beaker bar for £17 and try to find some scaffolding pole.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you're trying to do it on the nearside wheel, otherwise you'd be going the wrong way :p

I've always found that a long bar (which to be fair here is about 6ft) does the trick. Anyone you can borrow a scaffolding pole off for a few minutes? Saves you spending a tenner on something that might not work either.
 
Anticlockwise is teh way, don't worry :p:D

Might go wondering around tomorrow tyring to steal some scaff pole from somewhere :D

There is always a sharp chisel and splitting the nut :p
 
MikeHiow said:
Ad, out of curiosity, what is the cost of renewing suspension, bushes etc. on one of these?
Click to expand...

It depends on how much you want to hack it apart, cut/burn out the old bushes, insert new ones OR buy new complete arms etc and just bolt them on. For me the suspension is about £1300 (no new bolts in that figure).

I've gone for a mixture, mainly as the Upper Control Arms would need 2 new bushes each side and a new ball joint. Factoring those in meant that complete new SPC forged aluminium adjustable arms weren't much more anyway. Pretty much for £1300 you get:

- MeisterR adjustable coilovers (height, 30 click damper hardness) - £500
- Superflex bushes for all suspension arms ans Anti-roll bar bushes - £320
- SPC adjustable front and rear camber arms - £320 from USA.
- Honda OEM Rear trailing arm bushes pair - £50
- Pattern parts - Front drop links, L+R outer and inner track rod ends, L+R lower ball joints - £120

That pretty much covers it, but remember that is parts only and to do labour for all this would be circa £600+ depending on what and how many bits shear/snap :D

Not all of it needs to be done though, but doing it all at once will be easier..... Not that it is easy atm :p
 
I love the idea of one of these, but the age does put me off. £1300 doesn't sound too bad if that covers the majority of the stuff that suffers from wear the most.

Can standard shocks still be had? If so, what is the cost difference?

The only other concern for me would be the gearbox issues so many people seem to experience, with syncros etc.
 
Standard shocks can still be had but they are around the same price as coilovers like these, then add some springs on top so going the coilover route is better value.

Don't talk to me about gearbox problems, but mine is as sweet as a nut now, and parts can be sourced cheap from Autodynamics who sell Honda parts from Singapore. Much better value than rip off Honda.

THe otehr good things about DC2s is the community as there are always spare parts flying around and cars being broken up. THis will be come the norm more and more though as more money can be made from the parts than teh car as a whole.

Engines can go, but doesn't seem to happen a lot, with first signs being blue smoke when driving hard and entering VTEC. Another thing to go though is rear arches, and rust can be expensive to fix. Mine also had this, so I got the full experience :p

But everything takes a back seat as soon as you take her out onto some B-raods and get the VTEC going. It still shocks me what this thing can do with a paltry 130bhp 1.8 until you hit 5800rpm :D
 
Update!

Sunday-Monday 30/31 August

Not including every step as I'll be here all night, but you get the jist :D

Had a horrible day on Sunday and had to nigh on re-assemble everything. Hub nuts were stuck fast and so had to get the suspension back on so I could lower the car to put some weight on the hubs. Still wouldn't budge until I got a nice 24inch breaker bar from halfords then plusgassed the hell out of the spindle nut then gave the area a few whacks with a rubber mallet.

Had to butch some of the ball joints on the TREs and Lower Ball joints as my ball joint tool is crap, silly screw thing. Get a fork to either bash the joint apart destroying it or a proper separator. In the end a few whacks on the arm near the joint with a BFH! seemed to pop them out.

TRE after popping then the nut being on too tight so everything then span. Hacksaw did the job :D
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Ball joint castle nut removal and after popping:
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Pull everything apart and slide out the driveshaft from the hub
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Undo the UCA nuts in the engine bay and drop the hub assembly out leaving you with:
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Drop Links get ****ed after 12 years. Hex hole in the end was now a rusty round hole so drastic measures were undertaken to get the nigh on welded nut off the spherical bearing shaft here.

1. Chop off the main drop link near the spherical bearing.
2. File flats on the remaining shaft to get a wrench on.
2.a. LOTS OF PLUSGAS!
3. Use wrench and ratchet to move nut as much as possible.
4. When stuck again hacksaw the remaining bit off the shaft that is now sticking out after point 3.

Pic of 1:
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Pic of 2:
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Result:
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Completed one droplink on Bank Hol Monday then the other tonight (Wednesday).

Update to follow of tonights work and DEOX-C :D
 
Those drop links are a PITA big time.

Took me 1hour to do just one and about 5 drill bits.

My car is still at WIM, getting expensive now as a ridiculous nut from Honda is £40 and I need two!
 
Simon said:
Those drop links are a PITA big time.

Took me 1hour to do just one and about 5 drill bits.

My car is still at WIM, getting expensive now as a ridiculous nut from Honda is £40 and I need two!
Click to expand...

Tell me about it. After cutting through and having a look at the cut surface the nut and thread looked like one piece of metal. Horrible things but eventually got there with 3 hacksaw blades, filing, a hurty arm and lots of swearing. About 4 hours in total spent on both drop links.

Nuts and bolts are mad, I feel your pain Simon. Thank god most the front ones looked fine and any rust is just under the head which can be cleaned up then copper greased. Going to guess and order new rear bolts without seeing them first as I need to complete the front of the car to turn her aroudn in the garage to access the rear suspension.


Wednesday 1st September

Finished off the final stuborn drop link then removed the final arm left; the lower control arm (LCA) and attached complaince mounting+bush.

24inch breaker bar = Hero!
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Close up
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Front suspension pretty much removed, bar the inner and out Track Rod Ends (TREs)
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Labelling up and bolt storage. Very important so you don't end up with loads of randoms at the end or try to ram the wrong shaft into the wrong hole ;)
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Now time for some DEOX-C on the forks
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Tomorrow I scrub the forks after 24hours in DEOX-C and use a wire brush to take off the old black underseal around the arches and repare surface rusted areas...... Or I might go see Inception again :D
 
Last edited:
sweet, i love pics.

sounds like you need a grinder in future mate, far less hassle! saviour for drop link issues etc.
 
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