I used a shot filled plastic hammer, 2 screw drivers inside of tube and a hardwood wedge driven between the screwdriver shanks to spread them.
sounds painful...
but they look like they'll do the job just right
PWM to Analog converter circuit
- Thread starter Tealc
- Start date
sounds painful...
but they look like they'll do the job just right
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- 24 Aug 2012
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It struck me while looking at the picture (with the coin for size comparison)...
Wouldn't a dime be cheapest and easiest? =)
(Granted the flattened tubes have the benefit of actually allowing some air circulation inside the heatshrink)
((Or just fatter MOSFET and not needing any cooling at all))
(((Not that THAT'S any fun - tinkering rocks)))
((((Damn that's a lot of parenthesis))))
Wouldn't a dime be cheapest and easiest? =)
(Granted the flattened tubes have the benefit of actually allowing some air circulation inside the heatshrink)
((Or just fatter MOSFET and not needing any cooling at all))
(((Not that THAT'S any fun - tinkering rocks)))
((((Damn that's a lot of parenthesis))))
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Not a bad idea. A coin is a good mass of metal but may not solder very well so will have to check that out. I don't think coins are actually made of pure copper these days but are probably made of steel plated with copper or something. One other potential issue is the lack of a nice flat surface, although the bumps and lumps of the queens head might actually help with thermal transfer. 
2p might be too big for the width of the circuit but I could always use 2x1p.
Will look into it but will still use the Doyll sinks as they are really nice.
2p might be too big for the width of the circuit but I could always use 2x1p.
Will look into it but will still use the Doyll sinks as they are really nice.
Finally got a chance to do some wiring today.
Casterina wanted the power to come from the PWM connector so I wired it up like that.
Here's the larger of the 'doyll' heatsinks on top of the transistor. I drilled a couple of holes in the top to get the soldering iron down and into the lower section so I could melt the solder that holds the sink in place.
Looks quite alright I think. As you can see I applied some additional maintenance to the profile of the sink (gave it a bash with a hammer).
It's a good solid lump of copper.
In comparison with the original doyll profile it's quite a difference in height.
Tried it out with 300mA of load and it gets warm of course but it's totally fine. Also threw 700mA on there and it got hotter but I could still hold it in my hand without too much discomfort.
Left it running in the shed for an hour with the 300mA at low duty cycle and it was just fine as for heat.
So a success I think.
Thanks for the heatsinks guys.
Next one I do I might try mounting a profile reduced Resident sink on there and see if I can shift one on the MM.
Casterina wanted the power to come from the PWM connector so I wired it up like that.
Here's the larger of the 'doyll' heatsinks on top of the transistor. I drilled a couple of holes in the top to get the soldering iron down and into the lower section so I could melt the solder that holds the sink in place.
Looks quite alright I think. As you can see I applied some additional maintenance to the profile of the sink (gave it a bash with a hammer).
It's a good solid lump of copper.
In comparison with the original doyll profile it's quite a difference in height.
Tried it out with 300mA of load and it gets warm of course but it's totally fine. Also threw 700mA on there and it got hotter but I could still hold it in my hand without too much discomfort.
Left it running in the shed for an hour with the 300mA at low duty cycle and it was just fine as for heat.
So a success I think.
Thanks for the heatsinks guys.
Next one I do I might try mounting a profile reduced Resident sink on there and see if I can shift one on the MM.
My beautiful piece of art all smashed, drilled and splattered with solder. 
Funny, the profile I made the was keeping in mind being able to get tip of iron into it.
What size holes did you drill in it?
It's a tall cooler at 170mm so make sure it will fit in your case.
Funny, the profile I made the was keeping in mind being able to get tip of iron into it.
What size holes did you drill in it?
It's a tall cooler at 170mm so make sure it will fit in your case.
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I know mate. I've really spoiled it.
I thought about the profile and being able to shove my iron in the gap after I'd mashed it on the back gate step I'm afraid. I just used the 3mm drill that I had in my drill but 5mm or 6 mm would have been better as I couldnt get all the tip onto the lower surface, hence the solder on top to aid with the thermal transfer.
I thought about the profile and being able to shove my iron in the gap after I'd mashed it on the back gate step I'm afraid. I just used the 3mm drill that I had in my drill but 5mm or 6 mm would have been better as I couldnt get all the tip onto the lower surface, hence the solder on top to aid with the thermal transfer.
Hi,
I've just come across this thread and it looks just exactly the kind of thing I want.
I'm putting together an Asus P8Z77-I in Lian-Li PC-Q08 case. My achievement is that I managed to squeeze a Noctua NH-C14 into there
Anyway, the case has 2 chassis fans and the heatsink has one cpu fan. The motherboard has 2 pwm fan headers. I'm also thinking of replacing the 7850 graphics card cooler with a Scythe Musashi cooler which has a manual control, but I was thinking it would also be great if I could retain the automatic speed control from the graphics card.
My current build is slowly progressing here
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=65338
I'm thinking of experimenting with a Coolink 1201 fan which starts at 3V, but all the manual fan controllers only go down to 5V, so what you've done here is great, including the fact I will have less wires hanging outside the case.
I'll be back once I've have something more specific
Great thread!
I've just come across this thread and it looks just exactly the kind of thing I want.
I'm putting together an Asus P8Z77-I in Lian-Li PC-Q08 case. My achievement is that I managed to squeeze a Noctua NH-C14 into there
Anyway, the case has 2 chassis fans and the heatsink has one cpu fan. The motherboard has 2 pwm fan headers. I'm also thinking of replacing the 7850 graphics card cooler with a Scythe Musashi cooler which has a manual control, but I was thinking it would also be great if I could retain the automatic speed control from the graphics card.
My current build is slowly progressing here
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=65338
I'm thinking of experimenting with a Coolink 1201 fan which starts at 3V, but all the manual fan controllers only go down to 5V, so what you've done here is great, including the fact I will have less wires hanging outside the case.
I'll be back once I've have something more specific
Great thread!
First time I had seen this thread and wondered, what on earth... circuitry into a finger...
Hi,
I've just come across this thread and it looks just exactly the kind of thing I want.
I'm putting together an Asus P8Z77-I in Lian-Li PC-Q08 case. My achievement is that I managed to squeeze a Noctua NH-C14 into there
Anyway, the case has 2 chassis fans and the heatsink has one cpu fan. The motherboard has 2 pwm fan headers. I'm also thinking of replacing the 7850 graphics card cooler with a Scythe Musashi cooler which has a manual control, but I was thinking it would also be great if I could retain the automatic speed control from the graphics card.
My current build is slowly progressing here
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=65338
I'm thinking of experimenting with a Coolink 1201 fan which starts at 3V, but all the manual fan controllers only go down to 5V, so what you've done here is great, including the fact I will have less wires hanging outside the case.
I'll be back once I've have something more specific
Great thread!
Thanks very much.
I've made a few circuits for graphics coolers and they seem to work really well. I still find it odd that very few aftermarket graphics coolers actually exploit the PWM function of the graphics card. Even the one I bought, the Thermalright Shaman, doesn't by default. The only difference really is how the control circuit is interfaced with the fan header.
So I decided to knock a couple of circuits together now that we are a bit more settled in our new home.
I decided to modify the circuit a touch to use the additional gain of the transistor to drive that much more in fan load.
I had a total of 0.83A (10W) which can be controlled by a single PWM feed from around 5v right up to 11.9v. The Doyll heatsink coped pretty well with this but was pretty hot after an hour at idle speed. I know it is good enough for over an Ampere in this configuration but would need a proper heatsink, like perhaps the ones that Resident sent over. I decided to ditch the Molex power option as it's not really required and just adds to the cost of the build.
Connected up to a couple of fans.
Before heatsinking.
Ater heatsinking.
And here it is powering some fans.
I decided to modify the circuit a touch to use the additional gain of the transistor to drive that much more in fan load.
I had a total of 0.83A (10W) which can be controlled by a single PWM feed from around 5v right up to 11.9v. The Doyll heatsink coped pretty well with this but was pretty hot after an hour at idle speed. I know it is good enough for over an Ampere in this configuration but would need a proper heatsink, like perhaps the ones that Resident sent over. I decided to ditch the Molex power option as it's not really required and just adds to the cost of the build.
Connected up to a couple of fans.
Before heatsinking.
Ater heatsinking.
And here it is powering some fans.