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Q6600 G0 lapping thread.

kirkster Can we get back to the point guys...

How exactly do you do the lapping? You get the grades of wet and dry first. How do I hold the chip when doing the lapping? I mean, anti static and all that. Not familiar with Core2 Duos but how do you avoid fouling the pins? What device do you use to hold the chip whilst rubbing it on the wet and dry?

Steve
Click to expand...


use a flat surface like a bathroom mirror, start off with 800 grade wet and dry. use dry though. make sure you mask around the cpu as per pictures in this thread. and useing the plastic cover that came with the CPU to cover back. use masking tape to sucre the wet and dry flat to mirror, then its acase of gently sanding the CPU ICH on the falt mirror untill you have a flat surface. then move up a grade say 1000, and so on.


as for bent pins, there are no pins on core2 cpu's the pins are in the M/board socket.

get lapping:D
 
Temps from Everest. (My definition of 'load' is 4 Folding clients running as this is what my Q6600 does 24/7)-

Before idle-

b4lappingidle1df7.jpg


After idle-

afterlappingidle1pd7.jpg


Before load-

b4lappingload1nk6.jpg


After load-

afterlappingload1qx8.jpg



I'm rather quite chuffed with the results. I might try for 3.6ghz this weekend :D
 
Nice results there cob.:)

Here's a good tip i found....not had chance to try yet.

Very lighty wet the surface the grit paper will be on, then place the grit paper ontop. Move the paper around with your hand and then it will suddenly stick to the base. It won't then move about or bend when grinding (and you won't then need sticky tape).

@kirkster ..and don't forget to rotate 90 degrees while sanding.
 
helmutcheese said:
Hmm, after you use Polish with Silvo or Brasso to get rid of Lappings Swirl marks, not just make it shiny, you do actually clean it throughly with ISO PROPYLN if you have any common sence, you do not leave the resindue on it and apply AS5.
Click to expand...

Exactly - Brasso is fine but I would never just whipe it off with a paper towel and then apply thermal compound. ALWAYS ALWAYS clean all surfaces with ISOPROPYL till you stop getting the black copper oxide coming off - it's common sense really.
 
SteveOBHave said:
Exactly - Brasso is fine but I would never just whipe it off with a paper towel and then apply thermal compound. ALWAYS ALWAYS clean all surfaces with ISOPROPYL till you stop getting the black copper oxide coming off - it's common sense really.
Click to expand...

Of course m8...it is common sense...the black copper oxide came of fine with the wadding lol...i did'nt use brasso...and if you got ISOPROPYL use it...i did'nt have any at first lap...so could'nt use it...did it make any difference NO!...NOW LET THE THREAD GET BACK ON TOPIC!....SKIM READERS!
 
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I'm rather quite chuffed with the results. I might try for 3.6ghz this weekend :D



Very good results mate.
 
Nice work guys they look way cool.

Going by Cobs figures Im impressed how lapping his CPU reduced the idle temperature of both his hard drives by an average of 4c :D

Is Acetone ok to use to clean the chip after polishing with Brasso? I have no idea what ISO PROPYLN is or where to get it from.
 
It's amazing what having the side panel off can do ;)

It's just a pity it doesn't affect watercooled temps.
 
Where do you guys get your sandpaper? I've been looking online and can only seem to find 3m sandpaper 2500grit in packs of 25!
 
Hi guys, after reading about the temp advantage you get from lapping i think i will give it a go but a question that may sound silly...

How do you know when to actually stop rubbing as to not damage the cpu?? is it a case of sanding it until its all the same colour which would indicate its flat ???

I know it may seem like a silly question but one I thought I better ask before destroying a £200 cpu :)
 
Franco_cov said:
Hi guys, after reading about the temp advantage you get from lapping i think i will give it a go but a question that may sound silly...

How do you know when to actually stop rubbing as to not damage the cpu?? is it a case of sanding it until its all the same colour which would indicate its flat ???

I know it may seem like a silly question but one I thought I better ask before destroying a £200 cpu :)
Click to expand...

When all the cpu has changed to copper, then it's done mate.
 
Your not going to be able to sand it down to the core and atchualy damage the cpu. Well if you did it would take a long time and quite frankly that would be rather silly.

Sand it not just untill you see copper though. Draw a grid on a peice of paper with strange lines, or just get a grid. Then hold the cpu up to it so you get a reflection. Any bends in the lines which are reflected onto the cpu's surface show it is not flat.


What is the grey top? aluminium? I wonder if you get better temperatures because your exposing copper under it which transfers heat better.
 
Finished rebuilding my rigso heres a few temps comparisons:

Before 3.6 @ 58c avg 100% load
After 3.6 @ 48c avg 100% load

q3600stable.jpg


Ambients the same @ 22c, so not a bad drop in temps (-10c)

Also increased the clockspeed and temps are still much lower - currently priming @ 3.7 which averages @ 49c - 9c lower than before with 100mhz overhead!

q3700.jpg
 
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