Racing Simulators

[KnightStalker]

I use a g25 wheel my settings for that are

overall effects 107%

spring 0%

damper 0%

enabled centre spring strengh 40%

degrees of rotation 900

most guys use same kind of settings so start from there see how you get on.

Same as above but no centering spring as you don't need it with decent physics with iracing, also try 520 or 720 for rotation, personally I use 720 in every car, its what I'm used to.

 

[FooAtari]

Running the MX-5 round Summit Point in practice. Best is in the 1:25's but i'm consistently in the 26's and 27's. Think tweaking the setup would help me knock off some time? Totally clueless in that department, a lot to learn I guess.

I did a few races there tonight. I can run mid-late 1:25's on default setup. And was still at the lower end of the field. Quick seems to be low 1:24-25 and I'm sure I saw guy with a qual time of 1:23:xxx

In the sim, depending on car set the force feedback between 2 and 10. Also make sure your wheel lock to lock matches the car setting.

I always thought that with the wheel set to full 900 degrees, the sim took care of ensuring that that the lock to lock was correct automatically...

 

[SKILL]

You mean wheel setup? If so most Aliens (the best racers) that use logitechs have roughly the same setup:

In the wheel software you want, 100% on force feedback strength, Gregor Huttu always said 101% felt better with his DFGT, this is what I have set.

900 degrees rotation and EVERYTHING else on 0.

In the sim, depending on car set the force feedback between 2 and 10. Also make sure your wheel lock to lock matches the car setting.

As FooAtari says, the lock-to-lock/rotation bit is moot, you can just set it to 900 degrees in the logitech software and iRacing maps that as 1:1 for almost every car (iirc the Solstice and maybe one or two others are >900 degrees, but you never actually use that)

There isn't any hard FFB lock for the steering though, so you can still turn the wheel but the cars steering will stop at it's maximum lock, never found that much of an issue myself but others mention it...

I use a g25 wheel my settings for that are

overall effects 107%

spring 0%

damper 0%

enabled centre spring strengh 40%

degrees of rotation 900

most guys use same kind of settings so start from there see how you get on.

Almost the same, I use 20% centre spring, I know that you 'shouldn't need it' but it feels weird to me without anything.

I'm also generally around the 6 mark in game, does depend on car but with those settings I generally leave it the same and just some cars are heavier then others.

Running the MX-5 round Summit Point in practice. Best is in the 1:25's but i'm consistently in the 26's and 27's. Think tweaking the setup would help me knock off some time? Totally clueless in that department, a lot to learn I guess.

Assuming you're a rookie there's not much point tweaking the setup as the main rookie series at least is fixed setup afaik.

No idea if that's a good time or not, but as long as you're consistent that's the main thing really

 

[Borrish]

Still failing miserably at driving the skip. If I use any more then about 10 degrees of steering lock at any point I spin and crash. Is this just how the skip is? It makes me want to drive the MX5 again but I can't really drive that either because I can't heel - toe brake.

Still, having great fun driving the Trucks in the ovals. I keep meaning to the the fun event a go but I haven't found the time. I should be able to drive the class B NASCARs next season as well.

I'd love to learn how to make decent set-ups but I get the feeling that doing so would take up a lot of my spare time.

 

[FeFiDoh]

I spent about 6+ hours on racing games yesterday.

I enjoy the arcade and sense of speed from Shift 2 but I can see iRacing being more involved when I get the hang of it.
The cars are a bit harder to drive, I guess because its more realistic and I am still new to it so not 100% sure on what I am meant to be doing.

Got work I need to get done today before I even hook my wheel back up, MUST.RESIST!

 

[ScarySquirrel]

Still failing miserably at driving the skip. If I use any more then about 10 degrees of steering lock at any point I spin and crash. Is this just how the skip is? It makes me want to drive the MX5 again but I can't really drive that either because I can't heel - toe brake.

Still, having great fun driving the Trucks in the ovals. I keep meaning to the the fun event a go but I haven't found the time. I should be able to drive the class B NASCARs next season as well.

I'd love to learn how to make decent set-ups but I get the feeling that doing so would take up a lot of my spare time.

Same here, I'm playing the game a lot less now because I just can't enjoy something that is so difficult. No matter what I do the back end comes loose and it's very hard to hold it.

 

[Neil777]

I'm only just learning the skip myself but I've found that there's a fine line between turning the wheel enough and turning it too far going into a corner.

 

[Bigsy]

It's also makes the skip the most enjoyable car in the game (imo), you drive it with the throttle and once you have that control you'll love the thing, just remember the throttle isn't an on/off switch.

Poweroff oversteer is probably where most of your issues are, so try your best not to jump off the power in corners, trail a little bit of throttle when you can, you can even trail it while braking which can really help the rear-end at corner entry but its tricky to learn. I was lucky in that I was relativity much quicker in GPL (to iracing..I don't play so much) where trail braking with quite a bit of throttle (and crazy brake bias) was necessary if you wanted to go fast.

 

[Neil777]

I've also found whilst testing at Okayama that I'm a second a lap quicker by turning the auto clutch off and blipping the throttle myself.

 

[disco Stu]

once you have that control you'll love the thing

+1

I found the skippy too slippy but then it all came together and now it's so fun. The key is to drive slower but controlled and then the speed will come.

Coming from the Jetta or Mx5 is abit of a shock but it's so much better

 

[deko]

As FooAtari says, the lock-to-lock/rotation bit is moot, you can just set it to 900 degrees in the logitech software and iRacing maps that as 1:1 for almost every car (iirc the Solstice and maybe one or two others are >900 degrees, but you never actually use that)

There isn't any hard FFB lock for the steering though, so you can still turn the wheel but the cars steering will stop at it's maximum lock, never found that much of an issue myself but others mention it...

Yeah, if you're getting anywhere near the maximum lock, you've already crashed.

 

[SKILL]

With the skippy issues, try concentrating on just being as smooth as possible, you can use reasonable amounts of steering lock with no oversteer you just need to be extremely smooth with the inputs,

One other thing that helped me back when I first started learning the skippy was to actually intentionally get it sideways, this can get frustrating and obviously can only be done in an offline test, but if you intentionally get it sideways and just try to hold the slide/make the corner you'll get a lot more comfortable with handling the car when it does step out

It probably doesn't help that the Mazda is quite understeery really, to get it sideways you've got to be properly agressive with the steering/brakes, that that driving style into the skippy and it'll just get messy, if anything the Solstice was better as it was a bit more twitchy (imo).

Might also be worth looking at the Spec Racer ford, similar-ish handling characteristics to the skippy, but slower/more catchable,

 

[Andrew_McP]

Might also be worth looking at the Spec Racer ford, similar-ish handling characteristics to the skippy, but slower/more catchable,

Good advice, though I always found the Skip (with the right, safe setup) easier to handle. Equally fun, but once I hit A I found it hard enough to protect my SR in D-class races without risking any Rookie events, fun though they might be.

One thing I always have to remember though is that as a non driver in real life I fail totally at using iRacing's "proper" gear changes. And while using the simple, cheaty method is significantly slower, it's also much easier to be consistent. So when learning a tricky car (compared to the satisfying, but very easy MX-5) there may be a case for trying this rather than making life more complicated than it needs to be.

But then maybe you learn bad habits. Swings & roundabout.

Andrew McP

 

[johny dolan]

Hosting a Silverstone historic practice for lotus all welcome setup included.

 

[SKILL]

Good advice, though I always found the Skip (with the right, safe setup) easier to handle. Equally fun, but once I hit A I found it hard enough to protect my SR in D-class races without risking any Rookie events, fun though they might be.

One thing I always have to remember though is that as a non driver in real life I fail totally at using iRacing's "proper" gear changes. And while using the simple, cheaty method is significantly slower, it's also much easier to be consistent. So when learning a tricky car (compared to the satisfying, but very easy MX-5) there may be a case for trying this rather than making life more complicated than it needs to be.

But then maybe you learn bad habits. Swings & roundabout.

Andrew McP

It's an odd one, personally I find the SRF to be a bit tamer coming off the brakes (where I think this guys are having major problems?) and once sideways they're a little easier to hold, however I also find it's more frequent that it will snap back the other way compared to a gentle straightening of the skippy, but that could just be my experience of the skippy...

What do you mean by the cheaty method? I basically ignore how it should be done, use paddles with auto clutch/blip turned off, clutch for the start and then no clutch with manual blips for the rest of the race, I do occasionally make mistakes but it does save a good chunk of time, especially on the straights

 

[garsands]

May help
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1423414.page

 

[Andrew_McP]

What do you mean by the cheaty method?

Auto clutch, auto blip. I have enough trouble getting round the course without adding clutch pedal/button hassle to the experience.

My attempts to go hardcore all ended in failure. I'd think I was getting the hang of things, then unexpectedly mess up. And as I wouldn't race unless I could confidently do race distances without an error (other than the occasional x1) I resigned myself to going even slower than I already was before that update.

It's frustrating watching people pull away, but I'd already had a decade+ of watching that whenever I ventured online, so I should've been be used to it.

You might be right about the SRF. It's been 4 months since I was a member, and quite a bit longer than that since I drove the car. Given the way things change slightly between builds, cumulative tweaks may have altered its handling a bit. Either that or my memory's gone.

The latter may be more likely.

Andrew McP

 

[Neil777]

It's been a few month's since I drove the SRF, might give it a go as it would be interesting to see what this latest update has done to it.

 

[ScarySquirrel]

I assume the setup on the Skippy makes a fair bit of difference to how it handles? Could anyone share a 'beginners' setup, if such a thing exists, something that isn't necessarily quick, but is more manageable and easier to handle?

Thanks

 

[Andrew_McP]

Could anyone share a 'beginners' setup

I'm not sure whether this link will work or not. If it does, this is the setup I got from a guy in the old England forum.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0Bx...jgtMzYwYzRhNDYzMTNl&hl=en_GB&authkey=COTEgKsN

Having said that, last year I alternated between using this and a slightly tweaked (brake balance) default setup, because the default changed to become something a lot less scary than it used to be. Some tracks seemed to suit one more than the other. But you can never be 100% sure whether it's the setup or you that's changed.

Andrew McP