All of the toys! Now question for you... would you like a BL touch, ender 3 bracket etc to go along with that boot loader. All new and unused?!
Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
All of the toys! Now question for you... would you like a BL touch, ender 3 bracket etc to go along with that boot loader. All new and unused?!
It was Great to meet you as well Vince.
Loved our chat about things
I hope you find the Core XY and parts to your liking.
Have fun with it all
It's the Marlin firmware....will get a link for you.
edit= https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065/files
Awesome - I can use that and create new firmware on a new board. Although I might wait and have a test first as I have a spare touch screen colour LCD and a 32bit skr1.4 Turbo etc. That would make an awesome upgrade to that machine.
@Vince Possibly a silly question for you. Various ads keep pushing the BL Touch at me. I'm not biting but just curious as to how it works. In bigger CNC mills, the machine is already fixed level but the probe is detecting the edges of the part and then running the coordinates of the model relative to that. Does this probe the bed and then mathematically adjust for the fact the bed is not level (ie move the z axis up and down as it traverses around the bed) or does it just probe each corner and then whinge at you to move the adjusters until it goes beep or something?
Just trying to work out how it would be any better than a feeler gauge or a dial gauge.
Just trying to work out how it would be any better than a feeler gauge or a dial gauge.
Somebody will correct me if I am wrong as I am pretty much a noob myself
I think its the first, probes the bed then adjusts for not being entirely level. 
Soldato
Somebody will correct me if I am wrong as I am pretty much a noob myself
About right.
@Vince You have version one of the BLTouch.
You will have to either higher\lower it.
Somebody will correct me if I am wrong as I am pretty much a noob myself
Vince is correct, it will probe the bed on a set number of points and then make adjustments as the print is proceeding. Whether it's worth it really depends on the printer, size of the bed, number for Z motors/screws.
Ok - I think there is an offset for BL-Touch in the firmware which tells the distance from the hot end both vertically and horizontally. That's the bit I really need to get to grips with!
Frankly the rest of the firmware is fairly simple and easy to get to grips with When I was sorting last night I found some 2100 256step drivers hiding away in one of those boxes. Those drivers look to be an awesome driver from what I can see on the interwebz. Looks like I have a million decisions to make on what to do
Last edited:
Soldato
Ok - I think there is an offset for BL-Touch in the firmware which tells the distance from the hot end both vertically and horizontally. That's the bit I really need to get to grips with!
When I was sorting last night I found some 2100 256step drivers hiding away in one of those boxes. Those drivers look to be an awesome driver from what I can see on the interwebz. Looks like I have a million decisions to make on what to do
Told you I just bought addons
Sorry. I meant the BLTouch it's self.
https://www.antclabs.com/manual
You weren't kidding either there is literally all of the stuff!! I have to ask, there are about 4 bowden setups in there did you ever go full bowden with it?
Cool, cheers to both of you for the education
Soldato
I thought about bowden, but direct is better if your using Flexi
Think I gave you some flexi as well? Some of the filament is a different size, so keep an eye out for it.
I was going to buy a resin 3d printer today.
But all the faffing about after has put me off.
Soldato
In a perfect world, your print bed is perfectly flat so all you need is a consistent gauge to tram the bed up with the hot end. The nozzle is then the same distance from the bed at all times. In reality, print beds can be warped in some way so even if you tram properly at your corner points, other parts of the bed could be too low or too high.
I have exactly that problem with mine in that the bed is bowing upwards by a surprisingly large amount (like 0.2mm), so when I have a perfect level at the 4 corners, my hot end will actually snag a print or even scrape along the bed as it travels, and causes some serious elephants foot too as my first layers aren't flat. I'm compensating to a degree with Z-hop when slicing in Cura, but it's not ideal.
Which brings me to...
Sooner or later I'm going to have to sort out my bed. BLTouch was an option, so I'd graciously accept your offer
Thank you
The fact that the stuff is toxic to touch and to breathe put me off!
I was going to say that you ought to be able to mill it flat to closer than 0.2mm.....but I've got a feeling I may be confusing you with someone else who had a mill. You could replace the bed with gauge plate (aka ground flat stock) but it's about £55 for a piece 500x250x3mm. That would get you within 0.05mm of flat but you'd presumably then need to buy a new heater element to stick on the bottom. What about a sheet of float glass and some wet and dry sandpaper to bring the top flat? Wouldn't necessarily have to be perfectly parallel to the bottom surface, just flat and then you can adjust it true in the normal fashion. If you google "Float Glass Lapping Plate" you should get the sort of thing. About £25-30 depending on size but re-usable for other things like sharpening too.
Soldato
In a perfect world, your print bed is perfectly flat so all you need is a consistent gauge to tram the bed up with the hot end. The nozzle is then the same distance from the bed at all times. In reality, print beds can be warped in some way so even if you tram properly at your corner points, other parts of the bed could be too low or too high.
I have exactly that problem with mine in that the bed is bowing upwards by a surprisingly large amount (like 0.2mm), so when I have a perfect level at the 4 corners, my hot end will actually snag a print or even scrape along the bed as it travels, and causes some serious elephants foot too as my first layers aren't flat. I'm compensating to a degree with Z-hop when slicing in Cura, but it's not ideal.
Which brings me to...
Sooner or later I'm going to have to sort out my bed. BLTouch was an option, so I'd graciously accept your offer
Awesome - I will get the parts together and put them in for the postie to deliver
I also have the ender 3 pro bed with 3 point bed adjustment and all that good stuff, (genuine Creality parts) which is now yours. That will sort your bed out for sure care package on route this weekend!No arguments, I want you to have it. Its the 230x230 one.
Although I might keep the springs and adjustment wheels as they didn't come with it... Also the carrier under the bed is alloy and custom specifically for your machine! I think i'm now going to go hybrid crazy with the i3 clone (which I already have a custom bed for) and uprate the core x/y with new parts! With that in mind all my ender 3 parts are now surplus to requirements.
Last edited:
Soldato
You, sir, are a legend. By all means keep the springs and wheels, I have my own upgraded parts here.
Job done. I will update you at the weekend with tracking info
Now you have no excuse to start the upgrades!
Bloody hell.
Glad you posted that now...
Yeah, some info here but you'll find more detail and/or horror stories on the web, I'm sure!
You did there are a couple of rolls of TPU which I have never printed with before, I have also never printed with ABS either. There is also a single mystery roll!! This bad boy has no labels or anything, it was in with a roll of PLA in one of those clear bags...
This is the roll:
What I can tell you is that its white and 1.75mm. After that I have nothing... Could be ABS, could be PLA, could be something else