It's just a mount to allow direct drive on the ender 3. The weight of the stepper motor is behind the hot end so kind of helps with weight distribution.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051
Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
It's just a mount to allow direct drive on the ender 3. The weight of the stepper motor is behind the hot end so kind of helps with weight distribution.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051
Ah ok. I have an MS DD already which is why I was interested in it lol. (And why I went down the rabbit hole you threw me into of dual z options).
When PC building and 3D printers cross over - doing some wire management in my Rat rig build (still very much WIP!)
very nice, Watercooling reservoir for the printhead?
How long were you waiting for delivery on the ratrig ?
I'm still undecided whether to go Voron or Ratrig.
Yeah I actually joined both discord to see how the communities were. The RatOS is appealing too.
Did you opt for everything from Ratrig or source most things separately? I remember when I last checked, things like octopus board and drivers, motors etc. were much cheaper sorting directly.
I got a lot of it from them as it wasn’t hugely cheaper going elsewhere when comparing like for like. Octopus (I’d get the pro now just to give you options for higher voltages in future) and miscellaneous stuff I sourced elsewhere.
Worth getting the LDO motors at the very least imo. Hot end i’d just go with a dragon or similar which you can source yourself.
Worth getting the LDO motors at the very least imo. Hot end i’d just go with a dragon or similar which you can source yourself.
Doesnt help that usually the stock head bed is warped from factory. I replaced mine with a MIC6 cast tooling plate.
looking at McMasterCarr, those look very expensive. Where did you get your's?
I think I paid 30 euro for mine from the UK. It is an expense as you'll also need AC powered keenovo silicone heatbed which runs off the mains, thermal fuse and also a reputable SSR for the heatbed to switch on and off. Realistically its not needed I was just running out of things to upgrade
I think I paid 30 euro for mine from the UK. It is an expense as you'll also need AC powered keenovo silicone heatbed which runs off the mains, thermal fuse and also a reputable SSR for the heatbed to switch on and off. Realistically its not needed I was just running out of things to upgrade
Wait... what??? Is it made from steel inside of aluminum or something???
I was looking at this to replace mine: https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/coll...licone-heater-for-heated-bed-creality-ender-3
(obviously 0.2 flatness range is not the same as 0.005 lol)
That metal used in Gulf one would be prone to warping too according to what I've read. The AC powered heatbed is just to get things heated more quickly. Sitting at the printer waiting 15 mins for it to get to 100c would be a pain.
It's not an upgrade that needs to be done at all, same as a lot of things I've done. I just done them out of boredom.
The gulf cost part is machined not cast, so I believe that to be true about potential warping. I figure it's gotta be better than the Creality OEM part right... right?!?
Let's see your setup btw!
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Wow... they are literally telling people they simply copied it, and who they copied it from LMAO: (Copying the 3 point bed level system of Gulfcoast)
"
Feature:
This is new aluminum alloy plate to upgrade existing Y carriage plates on pupular ender-3 ender 3 pro ender-3s 3D Printers. Plate is made of tempered aluminum alloy, brushed and anodized for perfect flatness and pleasing surface finish. This product will fix leveing issues that you might have on your Ender 3 Ender-3s Ender-3 pro 3D Printers due to twist on original Y carriage plate.
This design is from Gulfcoast Robotics,it supports for 3-point leveling with the stock heated bed. This reduces the time required to level and maintains a flat surface longer than the traditional 4-point plates, which can otherwise create bends and twists.It also supports traditional 4-Point .
"
China is nuts.
"
Feature:
This is new aluminum alloy plate to upgrade existing Y carriage plates on pupular ender-3 ender 3 pro ender-3s 3D Printers. Plate is made of tempered aluminum alloy, brushed and anodized for perfect flatness and pleasing surface finish. This product will fix leveing issues that you might have on your Ender 3 Ender-3s Ender-3 pro 3D Printers due to twist on original Y carriage plate.
This design is from Gulfcoast Robotics,it supports for 3-point leveling with the stock heated bed. This reduces the time required to level and maintains a flat surface longer than the traditional 4-point plates, which can otherwise create bends and twists.It also supports traditional 4-Point .
"
China is nuts.
Finally finished my Ender 3V2 setup.
Jyers Firmware and Icons
Bltouch with cover to block out light into the webcam
Adjustable Webcam mount
Raspberry PI running Octodash on a swivel mount
Tension knob covers and belt covers
Can now run this setup remotely via phone, to switch on, heat up, print, monitor print, and then switch off when finished.
Jyers Firmware and Icons
Bltouch with cover to block out light into the webcam
Adjustable Webcam mount
Raspberry PI running Octodash on a swivel mount
Tension knob covers and belt covers
Can now run this setup remotely via phone, to switch on, heat up, print, monitor print, and then switch off when finished.
Backstory: My Ender 3 V2 hotend nuked itself (clogged in the heat break area) so replaced the whole thing with a Micro Swiss Direct Drive.
Long story short, I ended up adding CR Touch as well as I was getting horrible blobbing that seems to cause layer shift. The reason why is because the MS nozzle for whatever reason seems to get a ton of build up that accumulates then drops off onto the print, hardens and knocks the nozzle as it passes, causing shift. Interestingly, I have only ever seen this in the Y axis direction.
I went through the whole machine yesterday and tightened anything lose. There were some loose eccentric nuts, and some other nuts that shouldn't have been loose on the wheels. I made sure carriage was OK and belts are good.
I am trying to print out the dual Z belt system mounts with the top mounted motor so I can ditch the lead screw. I am still getting layer shift which I ASSUME, is from blobbing, but cant prove it as I was out.
Now, I do have the 4.2.2 board which apparently is known to cause layer shift if the fan isn't running, but I do indeed have it running so it isn't that I believe.
This is driving me nuts. It is still layer shifting.
Yes, calibrated e steps. Flow seems ok, i reduced to 94%
Is there a flow calibration test?
Long story short, I ended up adding CR Touch as well as I was getting horrible blobbing that seems to cause layer shift. The reason why is because the MS nozzle for whatever reason seems to get a ton of build up that accumulates then drops off onto the print, hardens and knocks the nozzle as it passes, causing shift. Interestingly, I have only ever seen this in the Y axis direction.
I went through the whole machine yesterday and tightened anything lose. There were some loose eccentric nuts, and some other nuts that shouldn't have been loose on the wheels. I made sure carriage was OK and belts are good.
I am trying to print out the dual Z belt system mounts with the top mounted motor so I can ditch the lead screw. I am still getting layer shift which I ASSUME, is from blobbing, but cant prove it as I was out.
Now, I do have the 4.2.2 board which apparently is known to cause layer shift if the fan isn't running, but I do indeed have it running so it isn't that I believe.
This is driving me nuts. It is still layer shifting.
Yes, calibrated e steps. Flow seems ok, i reduced to 94%
Is there a flow calibration test?
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