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Random 3D printing chatter

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by Cenedd, 30 Jun 2020.

  1. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,641

    Location: Suffolk

    Stock CR6-SE hot end? So you have to heat up, get the right socket for the nozzle, hold the heater block, be careful with a hot nozzle coming out and then reinstall the new nozzle with the correct torque, correct? Oh all while be careful not to break the strain gauge.

    All that's fine BUT Revo is easier, room temp, unscrew nozzle with your hand and hand tighten the new nozzle back in, donE.

    For a printer with either a V6 or M12 thread it makes sense. I printed a new mount for my Prusa for the Micro and it was great to use.

    But I'm not selling them and you do what works/makes sense for you.
     
  2. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,807

    Location: Solihull-Florida

    Yes stock CR6 SE
    You don't hold the block at all.
    The block is screwed in to the cold end.
    It comes with a socket wrench to undo\tighten.

    It will be great for some people. Just not me.

    Someone gave me a wrecked Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend.
    I bought the parts to fix it(cost a bomb). But it does the same as my old one :)
     
  3. Scougar

    Capodecina

    Joined: 30 Jan 2007

    Posts: 13,458

    Location: PA, USA

    I'm on a real tight deadline trying to get prototype parts printed out ahead of a paintball game on Fri/Sat/Sun so I don't have time to tune my new Micro Swiss Direct Drive extruder on my Ender 3 V2.

    On large flat areas mainly I am getting big blobs that get big enough for the nozzle to hit and cause layer shift. I have read that both retraction too low and retraction too high can cause issues like this but if anyone has advice here (bearing in mind I need to get these prints done), I'll take it.
     
  4. Chris Simmons

    Associate

    Joined: 11 Jun 2021

    Posts: 5

    Location: Swansea

    Sounds like it could be anything from retraction settings to extrusion multiplier.

    The quickest way to calibrate your machine would be to download Superslicer https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/releases/tag/2.3.56.9 and once you’ve set up what printer you’re using click the calibration tab. There are several calibration tests which need to be done in order and it shouldn’t take you more than 2 hours to run and print all the test files, once done your machine and settings will be tuned nicely.

    A guide to the calibration can be found here:
    https://youtu.be/Fzjguj8qpS0?t=13m30s
     
  5. Scougar

    Capodecina

    Joined: 30 Jan 2007

    Posts: 13,458

    Location: PA, USA

    Thank you :) I will give this a go. I'm made the decision to go with what I've already got printed. I'm going to spend the rest of the time before the game calibrating.

    I found that it's actually gunking up the nozzle, then dropped off, so perhaps somehow I'm too close to the print bed. However, part of the problem was that it was 'swirling' out of the nozzle rather than laying if I don't have it close.
     
  6. Chuk_Chuk

    Mobster

    Joined: 12 May 2014

    Posts: 2,830

    Hi All, I'm getting my first 3D printer soon (resin printer). Does anyone have any good videos on how to properly set up supports?
     
  7. montymint

    Don

    Joined: 29 Jul 2006

    Posts: 5,771

    Location: Newcastle, UK

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFhA

    He's pretty good if it's mini's you're printing.

    If you get stls from patreons, a bunch of them are pre-supported.
     
  8. Chuk_Chuk

    Mobster

    Joined: 12 May 2014

    Posts: 2,830

    Thank you.

    I plan on printing some of my own 3D models. We shall see where this goes.

    Just need my gloves and IPA to arrive and i can give this a whirl.

    Annoyingly the lid for the cure and dry is warped in at the bottom edges so it doesn't sit properly on the machine.
     
  9. Chuk_Chuk

    Mobster

    Joined: 12 May 2014

    Posts: 2,830

    So, I did a few test print today using the Anycubic test piece and two pre supported models I found online.

    So the prints worked well but i did notice that after washing and curing they were a little sticky. Does anyone have any tips on fixing this? Do i need a toothbrush to scrub them down during the washing stage? I tried curing them for longer (about 30 mins total) but that didn't seem to do much.
     
  10. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,807

    Location: Solihull-Florida

    wrong thread.
     
    Last edited: 8 Nov 2021
  11. montymint

    Don

    Joined: 29 Jul 2006

    Posts: 5,771

    Location: Newcastle, UK

    how long were they in the ipa bath, also are you using a wash / curing station or doing it by hand?
     
  12. VeNT

    Capodecina

    Joined: 9 Jan 2003

    Posts: 20,724

    Location: Cornwall

    I've had a batch of IPA from amazon that was "sticky". once cured just wash in soap and leave in the sun.
     
  13. Chuk_Chuk

    Mobster

    Joined: 12 May 2014

    Posts: 2,830

    Whoops. Noob mistake not giving enough info. I used a wash and cure system. IPA is above 90% (I think it is 99%) and is fresh.

    The first batch went in for about 3 minutes before curing. When i realised it was sticky (post curing), I dunked it by hand and swirled it around.

    The second batch went into the IPA bath for about 10 minutes before being cured.

    Both batches were sticky at the end.

    I'll try this when i get home.
     
  14. Scougar

    Capodecina

    Joined: 30 Jan 2007

    Posts: 13,458

    Location: PA, USA

    After all the screwing around with Direct Drives and looking at upgrades etc for Ender 3 V2.... it's almost worth just getting the Ender 5 Plus, and be done with it lol.

    I barely managed to get two prototype boxmag's done in time for testing down in North Carolina (10 hour drive away). Looking again now at my settings, and playing with flow rates.
     
  15. Zeeflyboy

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 21 Jan 2016

    Posts: 2,463

    Building my new printer - anyone else here rocking a Rat Rig Vcore 3?

    Been impressed with the build so far, already got some ideas for mods I want to do but it’s going to be a great base for future tinkering.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  16. Ian_Eb

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 17 Oct 2002

    Posts: 1,178

    Location: Congleton, Cheshire

    Blimey, how long did it take to print that? :D 9 Months + i guess?
     
  17. Zeeflyboy

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 21 Jan 2016

    Posts: 2,463

    9 months for the initial model but has had a lot of post processing involved.
     
  18. montymint

    Don

    Joined: 29 Jul 2006

    Posts: 5,771

    Location: Newcastle, UK

    dipping my toes back into FDM with a prusa mini, hopefully it'll be here on Tuesday
     
  19. VeNT

    Capodecina

    Joined: 9 Jan 2003

    Posts: 20,724

    Location: Cornwall

    my daughter would like to know if this is where babies come from.

    I have said yes.

    She wants one.
     
  20. PardonTheWait

    Capodecina

    Joined: 26 Aug 2003

    Posts: 24,120

    Are you rinsing in water and then drying them off after the IPA but before curing? If not that should sort you out.

    If you use hot water the supports come off much easier too.