Random 3D printing chatter

deuse said:
I can do that now on the CR6 SE.
Heat up to 240---un screw and replace.
And then do a auto bed level.

But I can see china bringing out a version very soon.
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Stock CR6-SE hot end? So you have to heat up, get the right socket for the nozzle, hold the heater block, be careful with a hot nozzle coming out and then reinstall the new nozzle with the correct torque, correct? Oh all while be careful not to break the strain gauge.

All that's fine BUT Revo is easier, room temp, unscrew nozzle with your hand and hand tighten the new nozzle back in, donE.

For a printer with either a V6 or M12 thread it makes sense. I printed a new mount for my Prusa for the Micro and it was great to use.

But I'm not selling them and you do what works/makes sense for you.
 
bulb66 said:
Stock CR6-SE hot end? So you have to heat up, get the right socket for the nozzle, hold the heater block, be careful with a hot nozzle coming out and then reinstall the new nozzle with the correct torque, correct? Oh all while be careful not to break the strain gauge.

All that's fine BUT Revo is easier, room temp, unscrew nozzle with your hand and hand tighten the new nozzle back in, donE.

For a printer with either a V6 or M12 thread it makes sense. I printed a new mount for my Prusa for the Micro and it was great to use.

But I'm not selling them and you do what works/makes sense for you.
Click to expand...

Yes stock CR6 SE
You don't hold the block at all.
The block is screwed in to the cold end.
It comes with a socket wrench to undo\tighten.

It will be great for some people. Just not me.

Someone gave me a wrecked Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend.
I bought the parts to fix it(cost a bomb). But it does the same as my old one :)
 
I'm on a real tight deadline trying to get prototype parts printed out ahead of a paintball game on Fri/Sat/Sun so I don't have time to tune my new Micro Swiss Direct Drive extruder on my Ender 3 V2.

On large flat areas mainly I am getting big blobs that get big enough for the nozzle to hit and cause layer shift. I have read that both retraction too low and retraction too high can cause issues like this but if anyone has advice here (bearing in mind I need to get these prints done), I'll take it.
 
Scougar said:
I'm on a real tight deadline trying to get prototype parts printed out ahead of a paintball game on Fri/Sat/Sun so I don't have time to tune my new Micro Swiss Direct Drive extruder on my Ender 3 V2.

On large flat areas mainly I am getting big blobs that get big enough for the nozzle to hit and cause layer shift. I have read that both retraction too low and retraction too high can cause issues like this but if anyone has advice here (bearing in mind I need to get these prints done), I'll take it.
Click to expand...

Sounds like it could be anything from retraction settings to extrusion multiplier.

The quickest way to calibrate your machine would be to download Superslicer https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/releases/tag/2.3.56.9 and once you’ve set up what printer you’re using click the calibration tab. There are several calibration tests which need to be done in order and it shouldn’t take you more than 2 hours to run and print all the test files, once done your machine and settings will be tuned nicely.

A guide to the calibration can be found here:
https://youtu.be/Fzjguj8qpS0?t=13m30s
 
Chris Simmons said:
Sounds like it could be anything from retraction settings to extrusion multiplier.

The quickest way to calibrate your machine would be to download Superslicer https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/releases/tag/2.3.56.9 and once you’ve set up what printer you’re using click the calibration tab. There are several calibration tests which need to be done in order and it shouldn’t take you more than 2 hours to run and print all the test files, once done your machine and settings will be tuned nicely.

A guide to the calibration can be found here:
https://youtu.be/Fzjguj8qpS0?t=13m30s
Click to expand...

Thank you :) I will give this a go. I'm made the decision to go with what I've already got printed. I'm going to spend the rest of the time before the game calibrating.

I found that it's actually gunking up the nozzle, then dropped off, so perhaps somehow I'm too close to the print bed. However, part of the problem was that it was 'swirling' out of the nozzle rather than laying if I don't have it close.
 
montymint said:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFhA

He's pretty good if it's mini's you're printing.

If you get stls from patreons, a bunch of them are pre-supported.
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Thank you.

I plan on printing some of my own 3D models. We shall see where this goes.

Just need my gloves and IPA to arrive and i can give this a whirl.

Annoyingly the lid for the cure and dry is warped in at the bottom edges so it doesn't sit properly on the machine.
 
So, I did a few test print today using the Anycubic test piece and two pre supported models I found online.

So the prints worked well but i did notice that after washing and curing they were a little sticky. Does anyone have any tips on fixing this? Do i need a toothbrush to scrub them down during the washing stage? I tried curing them for longer (about 30 mins total) but that didn't seem to do much.
 
Chuk_Chuk said:
So, I did a few test print today using the Anycubic test piece and two pre supported models I found online.

So the prints worked well but i did notice that after washing and curing they were a little sticky. Does anyone have any tips on fixing this? Do i need a toothbrush to scrub them down during the washing stage? I tried curing them for longer (about 30 mins total) but that didn't seem to do much.
Click to expand...

how long were they in the ipa bath, also are you using a wash / curing station or doing it by hand?
 
Chuk_Chuk said:
So, I did a few test print today using the Anycubic test piece and two pre supported models I found online.

So the prints worked well but i did notice that after washing and curing they were a little sticky. Does anyone have any tips on fixing this? Do i need a toothbrush to scrub them down during the washing stage? I tried curing them for longer (about 30 mins total) but that didn't seem to do much.
Click to expand...
I've had a batch of IPA from amazon that was "sticky". once cured just wash in soap and leave in the sun.
 
montymint said:
how long were they in the ipa bath, also are you using a wash / curing station or doing it by hand?
Click to expand...
Whoops. Noob mistake not giving enough info. I used a wash and cure system. IPA is above 90% (I think it is 99%) and is fresh.

The first batch went in for about 3 minutes before curing. When i realised it was sticky (post curing), I dunked it by hand and swirled it around.

The second batch went into the IPA bath for about 10 minutes before being cured.

Both batches were sticky at the end.

VeNT said:
I've had a batch of IPA from amazon that was "sticky". once cured just wash in soap and leave in the sun.
Click to expand...
I'll try this when i get home.
 
After all the screwing around with Direct Drives and looking at upgrades etc for Ender 3 V2.... it's almost worth just getting the Ender 5 Plus, and be done with it lol.

I barely managed to get two prototype boxmag's done in time for testing down in North Carolina (10 hour drive away). Looking again now at my settings, and playing with flow rates.
 
Building my new printer - anyone else here rocking a Rat Rig Vcore 3?

Been impressed with the build so far, already got some ideas for mods I want to do but it’s going to be a great base for future tinkering.


C8-DDF79-A-12-C8-4542-BDB5-9-C00-DFA59-F88.jpg

jkvsxYM
jkvsxYM
 
Zeeflyboy said:
Building my new printer - anyone else here rocking a Rat Rig Vcore 3?

Been impressed with the build so far, already got some ideas for mods I want to do but it’s going to be a great base for future tinkering.


C8-DDF79-A-12-C8-4542-BDB5-9-C00-DFA59-F88.jpg

jkvsxYM
jkvsxYM
Click to expand...
my daughter would like to know if this is where babies come from.

I have said yes.

She wants one.
 
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