Random 3D printing chatter

Soldato
Joined
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how on gods earth do use that much IPA?
do you not filter and re-use it?
Filtering doesn't really work.
I gave up on that.

I even tried distilling it. But that ruined the still.

So I just cure it. And dispose of it.
 
Soldato
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I don't believe so but the other company do sell many other products that the would classify as competition. For the record - forum text being the delightfully misinterpretable medium that it is - I wasn't having a go at VeNT, just reminding him as it's quite irritating when you get banned....I've been there.
Ocuk don't sell resin.

:)
 
Soldato
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Came up with a solution to my Y Axis kit not fitting due to bad parts. I just ditched the big spacer, and mounted it lower. I went out and bought some 12mm low profile M5 bolts and washers.

Also raised a case with USPS for my missing package for my Delta printer. Hopefully I will get it at some point.
 
Soldato
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Filtering doesn't really work.
I gave up on that.

I even tried distilling it. But that ruined the still.

So I just cure it. And dispose of it.

In summer I leave 2l bottles in the sun, and use the resulting IPA for the first wash.
 
Soldato
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In summer I leave 2l bottles in the sun, and use the resulting IPA for the first wash.
I have about 20 2L bottles in the garden as we speak.

I tend to use normal resin, eco and water washable. So the IPA gets pretty polluted.
It becomes sticky and leaves a shine on a curved object.
 
Soldato
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Got my FLSUN QQ-S Pro delta printer up and running in some fashion. Back story: I bought a 'returned' printer that needed a load of parts that FLSUN sent me, and the package went missing between USPS and my work place (it is marked as 'delivered' but my work place log everything as it comes in the door).

I didn't have an extruder. Since I had changed out my stepper motor on the micro swiss DD for my Ender 3, I just reassembled the extruder parts for the Ender 3 V2, and had to use two 4" long bolts to suspend the assembly mid air just below the roof of the printer so the bowden tube would reach. I have also just guessed at e-steps at set it to 97 via g-code (it's a PITA on the qq-s pro to set/measure).

I didn't have fan ducts either, so had to print them in PETG on my Ender. I did however, manage to print a spool holder (Again, which I didn't have) on the ductless delta printer amazingly.

Just printing some stabilizing feet for the printer as well, then I will think about what I'm actually going to use it to print. PETG was a disaster on it. PLA+ is going down awesome so far.
 
Soldato
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Well.. the Delta is pretty damn fast, that's for sure.

Other than that, I've just finished putting in my new firmware and TMC2209 drivers for X, Y, Z and E and tuned them to 0.8 X3 and 1.27 for E. (Creality stepper motor I'm having to use). It went from sounding like a squeaky 56k modem, to really just hearing the belt noise and fans. I'll be letting it settle for a little while, and then trying out Fox Ies Marlin build for the QQ-S Pro printer. Looking forward to it soon since I'm familiar with Marlin.
 
Soldato
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So.... all my parts turned up 14 days later than USPS had listed them as 'delivered' and basically told me to 'file a claim' lol.

So now I have two leveling sensors and two extruders LOL. (I bought the other one's :( )


EDIT: Oh, and I installed the auto level sensor and I am finally no longer scraping the bed. No matter how I manually leveled before it would not go higher. Seem's like the auto-level sensor is actually needed to get a base 'tilt' for the glass bed (Just my guess here), and then manual leveling just allow you to tweak that.
 
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Associate
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25 Dec 2008
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Norwich
done quite a few upgrades to my qqs pro personally using 2208s myself as you say the stock A4988 are defiantely loud. I have braces on the guide rails and then further braces on the arms, have changed the bearings on the rails for higher quality ones , new spool holder which is on two 608 bearings i believe, extruder has been changed for a dual drive one as the old titan clone I found would slip constantly, changed the effector housing for a 3d printed version that further reduces the weight of the effector and new cooling fan ducts that give 360 cooling of the nozzle. Have printed the parts required for a flying extruder but just need to get a few springs for that to be mounted. Stock its not a bad printer but when modded its very good and Like you say extremely fast.
 
Soldato
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done quite a few upgrades to my qqs pro personally using 2208s myself as you say the stock A4988 are defiantely loud. I have braces on the guide rails and then further braces on the arms, have changed the bearings on the rails for higher quality ones , new spool holder which is on two 608 bearings i believe, extruder has been changed for a dual drive one as the old titan clone I found would slip constantly, changed the effector housing for a 3d printed version that further reduces the weight of the effector and new cooling fan ducts that give 360 cooling of the nozzle. Have printed the parts required for a flying extruder but just need to get a few springs for that to be mounted. Stock its not a bad printer but when modded its very good and Like you say extremely fast.

I have printed out the qq-s adjustable bearing holders from thingiverse. Just waiting for next paycheck to splurge a bit on 683zz bearings, nylon nuts and M3 screws.

I think my printer was well used before being returned (and then me buying it cheap), so quality doesn't seem that good so far with PETG.

I get some nasty noises sometimes on faster travel moves, so think my bearings may be on the way out... Or.. the motor braces I put in are excerbatting the noise. I will eventually look at making my own arms, and possibly 12mm rod mod.

My dual extruder still hasn't been shipped yet, and now we have slipped into Chinese New Year. Probably won't be here till March now.
 
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Associate
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I replaced the LMU88 bearings with E3D linear bearings, worked fine for me so far. Cant say I have printed petg yet, I have print mainly pla with some ABS and TPU both have worked okay for me as I have an enclosure for the printer.
 
Soldato
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Well... Trying out TPU (95A shore rating) on my delta printer, and so far going well (cross fingers). My first attempt did fail, bit that was because one of the very low printed air ducts somehow fell off (must have caught an edge) then lifted the printer head up by a few CM. Replaced them with the OEM air ducts and its now been going all night. Kinda surprised it even prints TPU.

This is a day long print of a one piece box magazine body so this is a crucial test for me to see if its viable to produce. My Ender was showing 4 days in Cura lol.
 
Soldato
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Print for box mag came out acceptable for a test. Underextruded in a fair few areas but is still strong. Will have to go back to my Ender for now with its direct drive, as the quality needs to be better to sell as a kit.

The bearing holders I printed are not good enough, and not sure I will pursue the idea of adjustable bearing slides for my delta unless I redesign/remix the original persons idea. I only spent around 40 dollars in parts so not too bad a loss.

I may refocus on doing the wider belt mod instead to reduce stretching of the belt over time. I am also toying with using closed loop stepper drivers... Just because.

Most recently, I have been helping print an alternative grip frame and magwell for a magfed paintball marker of a friend. Testing fit, making suggestions etc. Should be pretty good when it is done. Assembling today I found a major flaw in sizing of the air supply so that it vents air everywhere. That will be a real pain for him to resolve in the model.
 
Soldato
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Need to figure out why my delta is just not having a good time with PETG. The parts it prints seems accurate, but it is.really gunky, lots of scraping etc.
 
Associate
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Are you printing black PETG by any chance?
I find the black (any make I've tried so far) sticks itself to the outside of the nozzle somehow so that by the end of the print, it's totally gunked up and there are resulting artefacts and stringing on the print. Grey or green PETG, no problem at all; clean nozzle at the end.
 
Soldato
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Are you printing black PETG by any chance?
I find the black (any make I've tried so far) sticks itself to the outside of the nozzle somehow so that by the end of the print, it's totally gunked up and there are resulting artefacts and stringing on the print. Grey or green PETG, no problem at all; clean nozzle at the end.

I am printing overture Space Grey. No issues on my Ender Direct drive with it. Something I don't have quite right on the delta. The calibration cube itself looks pretty darn good..sides are accurate and stacked well.

Will just need to experiment. Some filament is just trash. I found esun petg is just awful and blobs like crazy. I suspect it isn't real petg.
 
Associate
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Odd, I'm running eSun at the moment and don't have that issue - other than the black, same as other makes. Ran some Ziro (odd colour I wanted) and that was also fine. I do have stringing issues as my extruder is bad and if I increase my retraction enough to stop that, it chews the filament so badly that it gets jammed in the tube. I have the solution (new direct drive extruder and hotend) but have been too lazy to get it fitted yet :D
 
Associate
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Y-axis limit switch on my Artillery X1 died on me yesterday, the bed just crunched into the hard stop - several times (!) before I figured something was up. That part seems to be difficult to get hold of in the UK in a timely manner so I had to order off Ali Express but that is still going to take a week or two. Meanwhile, I rigged up a mechanical switch glued onto a small wood platform and it work OK for now. This was not a part I expected to fail as the original are solid state switches so I don't know what failed. Wiring seems OK and it doesn't bend in use.
 
Soldato
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Y-axis limit switch on my Artillery X1 died on me yesterday, the bed just crunched into the hard stop - several times (!) before I figured something was up. That part seems to be difficult to get hold of in the UK in a timely manner so I had to order off Ali Express but that is still going to take a week or two. Meanwhile, I rigged up a mechanical switch glued onto a small wood platform and it work OK for now. This was not a part I expected to fail as the original are solid state switches so I don't know what failed. Wiring seems OK and it doesn't bend in use.

Can you change to optical switches? I converted my Delta to run them on each of the three pillars.
 
Associate
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Can you change to optical switches? I converted my Delta to run them on each of the three pillars.

Yes very likely I could with the right parts. However I paid for the spares now and the mechanical switch is working ok. I imagine within 12 months I'll upgrade anyway as the X1 is getting a bit long in the tooth :) The bed no longer sticks PLA no matter what I do to it so I ordered a flex plate for it, the original bed was great for a long time though.
 
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