Soldato
Pic not working, looking forward to seeing it lol.
Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
Associate
Well my first calibration cube is quite the mess:
...
I am not sure even where to start from here!?
Any advice appreciated
Hmm, needs a few minor tweaks and you've cracked it
Check the printer actually had a nozzle fitted?
Soldato
Lots of rubbish came out of it when I first ran it. Should I consider taking it apart and giving it a good clean through?Hmm, needs a few minor tweaks and you've cracked it
Check the printer actually had a nozzle fitted?
Quite a few things wrong there. At a start I would look at e-steps calibration and perhaps the temperature is too high judging by the look of it 'melting'.
The cube looks quite off-centre to the brim. Is that like it in the model after slicing?
The cube looks quite off-centre to the brim. Is that like it in the model after slicing?
Soldato
It definitely collapsed as it was being built as a video I took of it looks much better than the final result.
The PLA was 200*C and bed was 60*C. I have no fitted a parts cooler yet so perhaps that could explain the melting?
I feel there is definitely some sort of calibration issue.. That cube is meant to be dead center for a start. the bed leveling "X" that i printed also had some issues with being off center.
Just started another X and it was doing this:
Oh dear
The PLA was 200*C and bed was 60*C. I have no fitted a parts cooler yet so perhaps that could explain the melting?
I feel there is definitely some sort of calibration issue.. That cube is meant to be dead center for a start. the bed leveling "X" that i printed also had some issues with being off center.
Just started another X and it was doing this:
Oh dear
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Soldato
Wow. What they heck lol.
Screen shot your basic settings.
Screen shot your basic settings.
Well a part cooling fan is needed for sure but that's not the issue here.
What have you done since you're first post which I replied to? Firmware updated?
Things to check: belt tension, are the pulley's on the stepper shafts slipping? General looseness of things.
What have you done since you're first post which I replied to? Firmware updated?
Things to check: belt tension, are the pulley's on the stepper shafts slipping? General looseness of things.
Soldato
Since your first reply to me I have updated (I think? Upload was successful but there doesnt seem to be a single thing different on the printer) the firmware. Checked the belts(Nothing seemed loose). Leveled the bed (As best as I can).
I am considering stripping it down and then fully building it myself so I get a better understanding of all the parts and will know for sure that everything is tight etc.
The shape of the X is not random it has done it now on 3 attempts with the same shape every time.
I have observed the nozzle colliding with previous layers especially later on in the cube print. I have had trouble with the Z axis moving freely so am looking into sorting that as well. (potentially the upgrade which was done on the youtube playlist you sent to me.)
Thanks again for all the advice from everyone. Slowly getting my head around these things.
I think your idea of rebuilding the printer is a good one.
As for the firmware, firstly what firmware did you use? and next did you make any edits to it? I can see you have different lead screws to 1) the older version of this (It used to have M8? threaded rod) 2) the version I have which has T8 acme screws with a 2mm pitch. So the Z steps would need to be checked.
Soldato
Today I rebuilt the bottom of the printer as I noticed it was really jerking and struggling with the Y axis too. Eventually diagnosed it as the bearing on the pulley the opposite end of the motor was siezed. It was seriously over tightened from the previous owner. The Y axis moves very freely now as expected.
The firmware I used was "Marlin-PI3_Pro_B.zip" from here https://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=17046. Using the guide from here: https://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=17181
I did take a picture of the Z steps setting as it was considerably different to the X/Y settings. +2560.0 vs 080.00.
Todays test "X" had the same result
Soldato
He was very in depth with his changes. I was hoping to get a base working and tune from there
Next step will be to study Chris's changes and follow his more closely.
Next step will be to study Chris's changes and follow his more closely.
He was very in depth with his changes. I was hoping to get a base working and tune from there
Next step will be to study Chris's changes and follow his more closely.
I suspect the version you got from geeetech is an old version of Marlin.
I would download a up to date version from marlin.org and then use the example configuration.h and make the basic changes needed.
But I think it more a mechanical issue your having.
Soldato
I have updated the firmware on it and it is much different now with the menus ETC and seems to operate much better there. The printing however remains the same so you are right
All of them should be the same shape/size as the center one. The X axis is not behaving.(Leveling issues aside..) Also appears to be quite a lot of wobble on the "skirt"
All of them should be the same shape/size as the center one. The X axis is not behaving.(Leveling issues aside..) Also appears to be quite a lot of wobble on the "skirt"
Soldato
Well I fixed it. It was simply the same problem as the Y axis, the bearing in the pulley had been overtightened by the previous owner and it could not turn. Now it prints a whole set of uniform squares. Time to get it level and see if the Z axis is behaving
Associate
Hi all, got a few questions on 3d printers.
I am looking at a printer to put together prototypes and quick ideas. Alas I do not have huge amounts of time to mess with printer configuration, so I am drawn to the Prusa range with the auto levelling. Thus maximising design time.
Many moons ago I used 3d hubs which put me in touch with a local chap. That has gone and its a £50 minimum order now
What do you guys use for larger 3d prints? i.e. ones that will not fit in a normal bed? Long term if the design works then I may take it to a proper frame builder / metal works. Post attempting a proper size run / metal 3d print. To give you an idea we could be talking about a 90*45*20cm part. I could use scaling but wondering if you have other ideas
I am looking at a printer to put together prototypes and quick ideas. Alas I do not have huge amounts of time to mess with printer configuration, so I am drawn to the Prusa range with the auto levelling. Thus maximising design time.
Many moons ago I used 3d hubs which put me in touch with a local chap. That has gone and its a £50 minimum order now
What do you guys use for larger 3d prints? i.e. ones that will not fit in a normal bed? Long term if the design works then I may take it to a proper frame builder / metal works. Post attempting a proper size run / metal 3d print. To give you an idea we could be talking about a 90*45*20cm part. I could use scaling but wondering if you have other ideas
Soldato
Well my first calibration cube is quite the mess:
I am not sure even where to start from here!?
Any advice appreciated
So finally after much work I have gone from the above to this:
After much messing about with the geeetech an opportunity to fix it properly came up by purchasing this instead:
Very impressed with this so far. Looking forward to doing some mods and upgrades to it.
Soldato
Ordered some CF PETG Extreme Pro from Atomic Filament... and also received some high quality Gummi Bears in the package as well. Clearly this is a winning company, and the filament will print like butter now.
Soldato
Needed to make a trophy for a joke at work an also seemed like a good thing to do a better test with the printer and a far longer print. Just under 4 hours.
Soldato
Quoting myself here... As I also found this company included a humidity card inside the package so you know whether the filament is dry or not out the bag.
Bizarrely... This company also claimed that drying the filament in a dehydrator could actually introduce environmental moisture to the filament and recommended a rechargeable dehumidifier instead (silica bead based).