Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
You can't do that.... you'll give the rest of trouble with our significant others!
Soldato
I'm in the process of building a Voron 2.4 and as I keep changing my mind about various parts as I go along, it's taking longer than I expected. Also I only really have some free time to build it at weekends. The amount of times I've got to a point and discovered a mod for that part and reprinted it has been many.
This weekend it's gantry belting and tool head.
This weekend it's gantry belting and tool head.
Soldato
What's a good entry level printer these days? Is it still something like an Ender off Aliexpress?
Say in the £200-300 range.
Say in the £200-300 range.
Soldato
Yep
For that price range around 250 quid my research led to a sovol sv06. Wanted an enclosed unit so got a good deal on the tina2 and almost gone through 2kg of filament with no issues.
Associate
I really wanted to go ahead and jump in with a Voron 2.4 as the next step from my Ender 3 Pro, but I went for a P1S instead.
I was apprehensive with the whole cloud/proprietary model for Bambu, and the recent issues aren’t exactly great, but think it was the right call to get an immediately functional and capable printer.
I am still thinking I may go ahead with a Voron to satisfy the DIY element, but know it would be such a long term build that it would probably never be complete!
Soldato
Thanks, gone for the SV06 plus for £230 which seems good value!
Soldato
Yeah some reviews seem to say swapping out to klipper makes it even better but to be honest this is all super new to me and probably going to keep me happy. Planning on some drawer inserts for Ikea Alex and some other smaller things.
Yeah, that's the thing. You can either do it for the building of the printer or to get on and print stuff. Both are valid but I think I clearly fall into the latter...given I actually bought a Bambu to get round the fact I'd procrastinated so long over fitting my upgraded hotend/extruder and control board! Technically I've removed the road-block to getting on with it (knowing I'd need to print parts after I'd dismantled everything)...but I've also removed the impetus to actually do it too!
Soldato
I bought the X1C in October last year because I couldn't get a Voron 2.4 kit. I wanted to get the Voron as I wanted to build a printer from scratch. The X1C is an excellent printer and I have no regret buying it.
Earlier this year the itch to build a Voron resurfaced and I had to scratch it so ordered one. This build is so different from building my Prusa Mini+ from the kit.
Earlier this year the itch to build a Voron resurfaced and I had to scratch it so ordered one. This build is so different from building my Prusa Mini+ from the kit.
Nice Cyber-Mav. I'll see your air-fryer and raise you a slow-cooker!
Printed in PET-CF not PETG-CF. Because it needs the carbon fibre reinforcement? Well, no but it's the only filament I had in stock that will do the temps (good for 200°C this stuff) and owing to a GENIUS of design, the brass shaft it pushes on to, is actually at full cooking temperature. No prizes for guessing how I first found this out! I measured it and it was 85°C so that explains why the original (polycarbonate outer with a high-temp centre screwed to it) slowly went brittle and failed.
Now I just need to work on the broken neon cover.
Printed in PET-CF not PETG-CF. Because it needs the carbon fibre reinforcement? Well, no but it's the only filament I had in stock that will do the temps (good for 200°C this stuff) and owing to a GENIUS of design, the brass shaft it pushes on to, is actually at full cooking temperature. No prizes for guessing how I first found this out! I measured it and it was 85°C so that explains why the original (polycarbonate outer with a high-temp centre screwed to it) slowly went brittle and failed.
Now I just need to work on the broken neon cover.
Oooh! Me! I know! Only 'cos I had this exact thing recently. You printed it standing up with quite a small bed adhesion and very thin parts going up. Those thin towers moved - either wobbled on dodgy bed adhesion or flexed - and it meant that each new layer was in a slightly different place resulting in a rough, jagged finish. Once the two met up again, it was tidier because they reinforced each other...but there's also something else going on to compound the issue. Could be that it needs drying or it could just be that it wants either a higher or lower temp; difficult to tell whether it's had trouble extruding it (needs higher) or that it's sagged (needs lower). I'd start with a temp tower and then see if you need a filament dryer.
You might also need to print it laying down with support under the ring part to elevate it. It'd be stronger that way too because the layer lines would run in a more helpful direction for the main ring part. You could split the model so you have the ring part and the 'head' separate. Newer slicers (Bambu, Orca and presumably Prusa) allow you to cut the model and generate a peg and hole connection that you can use to join them with a dab of glue.
Only 'cos I had this exact thing recently. You printed it standing up with quite a small bed adhesion and very thin parts going up. Those thin towers moved - either wobbled on dodgy bed adhesion or flexed - and it meant that each new layer was in a slightly different place resulting in a rough, jagged finish. Once the two met up again, it was tidier because they reinforced each other...but there's also something else going on to compound the issue. Could be that it needs drying or it could just be that it wants either a higher or lower temp; difficult to tell whether it's had trouble extruding it (needs higher) or that it's sagged (needs lower). I'd start with a temp tower and then see if you need a filament dryer. You might also need to print it laying down with support under the ring part to elevate it. It'd be stronger that way too because the layer lines would run in a more helpful direction for the main ring part. You could split the model so you have the ring part and the 'head' separate. Newer slicers (Bambu, Orca and presumably Prusa) allow you to cut the model and generate a peg and hole connection that you can use to join them with a dab of glue.
Well looks like im out of commission for a while. Nozzle hit the bed and burnt it up. Looks like kiddo paused a job and stopped it but when he took out build plate to do something and put back in must have done something cuz it didnt start job from beginning and started from where it left off but hit the bed and messed.
Always said to just cancel job outright and start fresh.
Have cleaned up bed but its wonky so need new magnetic plate since edges no longer sit flat. May try a small test print in middle to see if anything else is off with it
Always said to just cancel job outright and start fresh.
Have cleaned up bed but its wonky so need new magnetic plate since edges no longer sit flat. May try a small test print in middle to see if anything else is off with it
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Ooh, nasty. Burned right through the plate? Any damage to the bed below? A re-level at least!
This was down to user error and not printer fault. I paused a job cuz of the noise and wanted to watch movie on tv. But noticed when paused the fan still spins and hot end is still hot so still got noise. I stopped the job that was paused and binned the partial printed model and offed the printer. Watched movie then turned printer on and set it off to print the same file again.
This is where something went wrong since i can see it didn't start the print from scratch but continued from where it left off but since the bed had been moved by taking plate off and back on along with missing partial print from before it for some reason hit the nozzle on the bed and dragged along nackering it.
The bed below the flexible magnetic build plate is solid steel so unmarked. Iv cleaned up the plate and pulled out the bits of filament shrapnel in it and flattened it out as much as i could. Its not totally flush with the bed but iv printed a few things today and they print fine and iv shifted the prints i do to the side that doesnt have the damage.
Ordered replacement plate.
Lesson learned, told kiddo not to start a job without asking me first cuZ the noise is distracting in the living room. Wont be using the pause function again, cancelling the job outright is easier and guarantees this situation don't crop up again.
This is where something went wrong since i can see it didn't start the print from scratch but continued from where it left off but since the bed had been moved by taking plate off and back on along with missing partial print from before it for some reason hit the nozzle on the bed and dragged along nackering it.
The bed below the flexible magnetic build plate is solid steel so unmarked. Iv cleaned up the plate and pulled out the bits of filament shrapnel in it and flattened it out as much as i could. Its not totally flush with the bed but iv printed a few things today and they print fine and iv shifted the prints i do to the side that doesnt have the damage.
Ordered replacement plate.
Lesson learned, told kiddo not to start a job without asking me first cuZ the noise is distracting in the living room. Wont be using the pause function again, cancelling the job outright is easier and guarantees this situation don't crop up again.