Random 3D printing chatter

Had to do my weekly "cooking" duty today. Fire up slow cooker, place pre-loaded pot on top of it. Simple. Except the knob came off in my hand :eek:. Had a look and for some reason they'd moulded the knob and then screwed a piece into the back that makes it fit a flatted or D-shaped shaft. Designed something similar but push-fit instead of screwed in. Printed it in PETG, went to fit it and burned my fingers. Turns out the shaft it goes onto is at the same temperature as the heater so it was at 86°C :eek: I wonder if that genius design may have contributed to its failing?! Had a look through and I've got a half-spool of PET-CF (not PETG-CF) That apparently will handle up to a good 200°C before it deflects and 226°C before it softens. That should do it. Fits nicely between the two with just friction. Who said we only use 3D printers to print upgrade parts for itself?! :D
 
Cenedd said:
Had to do my weekly "cooking" duty today. Fire up slow cooker, place pre-loaded pot on top of it. Simple. Except the knob came off in my hand :eek:. Had a look and for some reason they'd moulded the knob and then screwed a piece into the back that makes it fit a flatted or D-shaped shaft. Designed something similar but push-fit instead of screwed in. Printed it in PETG, went to fit it and burned my fingers. Turns out the shaft it goes onto is at the same temperature as the heater so it was at 86°C :eek: I wonder if that genius design may have contributed to its failing?! Had a look through and I've got a half-spool of PET-CF (not PETG-CF) That apparently will handle up to a good 200°C before it deflects and 226°C before it softens. That should do it. Fits nicely between the two with just friction. Who said we only use 3D printers to print upgrade parts for itself?! :D
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I've been looking at the microswiss NG Revo setup. I'd like to be able to run 300c filament for stuff like this.
 
Not sure about that particular hotend but the Bambu X1C didn't have a problem with it. The PLA-CF is good for strength too but not heat - depends what your requirement is. Definitely some of them need drying first. The PLA-CF started ok out the pack and then started jamming the tubes on retract to swap for support. Dried it and problem gone.
 
Big improvement in what though? Are you saying that it's quieter, less banding/artefacts? If we're talking pure noise, I'm pretty sure that my one is louder than your one!...oh, wait that's a bad thing ;D
 
Cenedd said:
Big improvement in what though? Are you saying that it's quieter, less banding/artefacts? If we're talking pure noise, I'm pretty sure that my one is louder than your one!...oh, wait that's a bad thing ;D
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Sorry I was rushing earlier… no noticeable difference in print quality, just noise in other rooms!

My office is the box room and the printer is above the stairs, so you could hear it downstairs and in other rooms but now you can’t tell when it’s printing.
 
I can identify with that. The noise was terrible when printing....until I moved it out of the office I share with my wife and then the moaning noise substantially reduced! ;)
Seriously though, a stud wall in between and concrete floor instead on a cupboard and it's effectively silent now :D
 
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Got a weefun tina2 in the end and so far so good. 3 prints done so far and they all turned out great. Doing a bigger spool holder for it now so will leave it on overnight to get the job done.
 
VeNT said:
nice, what's your first print going to be?
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Ive already sorted a few things with it :) Im printing a project for work and also doing some console prints to replace some missing parts on some old Japanese consoles :)


See this here post:

Vince's Ebay Repair Thread - (Console Repairs & Mods)

This month is an absolutley insane one for me as spending a lot of time on the office for just one month only... that means stuff is stacking up!! I have a ridiculous amount to get into as soon as some time frees up!! And I didnt know the GBP had two revisions.. one with a led light, one...
forums.overclockers.co.uk forums.overclockers.co.uk
 
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I dont get why there is a fan on the hot end of the 3d printer it seems counter productive since the hot end is supposed to get hot and the heating element can turn off if its too hot to regulate temp.
 
Cyber-Mav said:
I dont get why there is a fan on the hot end of the 3d printer it seems counter productive since the hot end is supposed to get hot and the heating element can turn off if its too hot to regulate temp.
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yes, but it's not cooling the hot end, it's cooling the heat break. you don't want the filament melting in your tube.
 
just looked that up seems like the hot end is made up of a few different parts, and as you say its the upper part it cools to stop heat creep going up the filament feed tube. i see that people do all sort of mods on their printers lol. once you start you just cant stop. lol
 
Cyber-Mav said:
just looked that up seems like the hot end is made up of a few different parts, and as you say its the upper part it cools to stop heat creep going up the filament feed tube. i see that people do all sort of mods on their printers lol. once you start you just cant stop. lol
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very much this. the printer itself is a hobby.
 
Yup, the challenge is to be able to answer the question "Yes, but what have you used it for that isn't for itself?!" *
Same goes for a lathe or a mill. Easy option for you: print some of these and give them to the elderly people in your life. They go down a storm. https://www.printables.com/model/178035-cute-mini-octopus
Print it in the red/blue/green version of this for extra points: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ERYONE-Filament-1-75mm-Printer-0-03mm/dp/B0B5L4XRMB
If you go for the four pack of 1/4 spools, make sure that your printer is ok with small, thin cardboard spools. A spool holder will probably be fine (may need a sleeve if the carboard gets chewed) but a changer such a Bambu AMS willl need a full-size adapter printing.
Also, it helps if you use adaptive layer height for just the very top part of the head. It wrecks all the joins if you use it for the whole thing but if you apply it to just the very top, it smooths out the layers a bit.

Edit: Also seams aligned to the back stops what otherwise turns into a facial scar. As far as I know, the spiral and non-spiral versions are the same, just the spiral is more compact if you were going to fill the bed with them. The support version is worth doing as otherwise the nose/beak can fail.

*An upgrade, repair, accessory, storage etc Or something you wouldn't need if you didn't have the printer.
 
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