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Looks great, I am going to have to build one of these eventually!
Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
Soldato
Of course... after re-tuning all the belts on my expensive delta printer.... I realized I put my leveling sensor in my storage unit. urgh. (This won't be fun to find, as I'm putting stuff in there for a pending move so it's all jammed in there).
Also... managed to take a chip out of my glass bed as well, as the PETG bonded too well, since the level was too close to the bed. /facepalm. (Not a great time. Just paid 1600 in taxes, 700+ for a gov document, and need to pay 500 deductible on my insurance thanks to some moron hitting my wife's car, whilst them being an unlisted driver).
Also... managed to take a chip out of my glass bed as well, as the PETG bonded too well, since the level was too close to the bed. /facepalm. (Not a great time. Just paid 1600 in taxes, 700+ for a gov document, and need to pay 500 deductible on my insurance thanks to some moron hitting my wife's car, whilst them being an unlisted driver).
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Cheap DTI (Dial Test Indicator) from online site and a printed mount to the hotend? Less (mentally) painful than finding the other one.
Been there with the glass chip. Same way too.
Accident sucks. Been there too. Nothing really fixes it. It's more annoying though when the Police breathalize you as the lazy option to see if they can at least charge someone
Been there with the glass chip. Same way too.
Accident sucks. Been there too. Nothing really fixes it. It's more annoying though when the Police breathalize you as the lazy option to see if they can at least charge someone
Soldato
I think it's about time I upgraded my own UM2.. Seeing the difference in work between the UM2's we have and a new Raise 3D Pro3 Plus shows the improvement in mechanics and the print quality is excellent.
I would be happy for around £1K, possibly a little more.. I paid £1k for a UM2 just after they launched (bought from the UM forums, some guy bought one, got ABS all over the hotend on his first attempt, and gave up) and its lasted me fine, still working well enough today and very serviceable..
So, I see the X1C / Voron 2.4 are still mentioned a lot, anything new around that price point likely to be coming out shortly?
I would be happy for around £1K, possibly a little more.. I paid £1k for a UM2 just after they launched (bought from the UM forums, some guy bought one, got ABS all over the hotend on his first attempt, and gave up) and its lasted me fine, still working well enough today and very serviceable..
So, I see the X1C / Voron 2.4 are still mentioned a lot, anything new around that price point likely to be coming out shortly?
Soldato
@Cenedd found someone selling the complete sensor and wiring for 15, so just bought a new one as I couldn't find the original on my storage unit.
Will just have to make do regarding the chip until I can buy another. My setup is smooth PEI plate, high temp 3M adhesive sheet then the glass. I use the smooth PEI on the magnetic bed so I can remove the plate, but as I'm finding out... fixing that gets expensive lol.
Car wise... apparently pretty common for people to drive illegally and nothing happen to them. Our brand new Outback Wilderness as well. So frustrating.
@Demon got a decent link to the Raise printer?
If I'm doing production work, vorons will be a lot of work to just build. Is that what you want, or you just want to get going with it?
Will just have to make do regarding the chip until I can buy another. My setup is smooth PEI plate, high temp 3M adhesive sheet then the glass. I use the smooth PEI on the magnetic bed so I can remove the plate, but as I'm finding out... fixing that gets expensive lol.
Car wise... apparently pretty common for people to drive illegally and nothing happen to them. Our brand new Outback Wilderness as well. So frustrating.
@Demon got a decent link to the Raise printer?
If I'm doing production work, vorons will be a lot of work to just build. Is that what you want, or you just want to get going with it?
Soldato
They are expensive: https://3dgbire.com/collections/raise-3d/products/raise3d-pro3-pro-3d-printer - £7K inc VAT.
The Raise 3D Pro I bought them for work, I'd previously got them some UM2+'s (2 normal, 1 XL), which have been great, but the print quality is now lagging behind modern designs.
For work it was obviously a case of wanting it running reliably, good support, etc.. but then I'm not paying for it, so I obvious am looking at it differently.
For home use, whilst I like the UM2 I have for it's instant get up and running aspect, I'm fine building from scratch since I've upgraded and rebuilt much of the UM2 over time, although the X1C is seemingly a good price for something that has a modern motion platform and will print out the box.
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Soldato
What does your work use the machines for, prototyping?
My personal setup right now is:
FLSUN V400: final quality part, and prototyping. Always in PETG.
FLSUN QQ-S Pro: Dedicated to rubberised parts (e.g. TPU) as not currently accurate or reliable enough for normal parts (massive custom modd coming up though).
Ender 3 V2: Dedicated for Carbon Fibre PETG with 0.6 nozzle for strong parts when needed. This is already a massively modded printer, but it should soon be getting converted to CoreXY, as I'm not happy with the height mod I did a while back.
I should ideally buy another printer for dedicated prototyping with PLA.
Definitely in favor of spending more to get quality these days.
My personal setup right now is:
FLSUN V400: final quality part, and prototyping. Always in PETG.
FLSUN QQ-S Pro: Dedicated to rubberised parts (e.g. TPU) as not currently accurate or reliable enough for normal parts (massive custom modd coming up though).
Ender 3 V2: Dedicated for Carbon Fibre PETG with 0.6 nozzle for strong parts when needed. This is already a massively modded printer, but it should soon be getting converted to CoreXY, as I'm not happy with the height mod I did a while back.
I should ideally buy another printer for dedicated prototyping with PLA.
Definitely in favor of spending more to get quality these days.
Anyone got any clues on this? PETG, 0.4mm nozzle. PERFECT in every detail except the overhang which went weird. I say overhang but it's only 45° so nothing that ought to be taxing. Printed again (it's functional but I needed two) and the same sort of thing happened but not identical - ie it's not printing what its told to, it is a fault.
It's Tinmorry Eco PETG which did previously work well...unlike their non-Eco stuff. Bad filament or something need tuning?
It's Tinmorry Eco PETG which did previously work well...unlike their non-Eco stuff. Bad filament or something need tuning?
why/how corexy an ender 3?
Soldato
I've already dual Z belted the Ender 3V2, linear rails, direct drive, externalized PSU and board etc. I recently increased the height by 150mm using longer extrusions (relatively easy since belted), but I've not been happy with how that worked out with some binding of the setup. I also get pretty bad ringing. (Present before the height increase)
So... Rather than spend money on fixing that alignment/binding, I'm going to go and have fun with the corexy mod. If I get that done, I'll be throwing in the MKS SKIPR board and screen for klipper that I already have and set it up for that. That should allow me to dial out the ringing as well.
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Soldato
Will grab a link in a little bit. The one I am going for will have a belted Z hopefully, rather than l lead screws. I will probably modify it for thicker belts etc for longevity.
EDIT:
Ender 3 V2 CoreXY by SRA_Solutions
Hi everyone! Welcome to my latest design to convert an Ender 3 v2 to CoreXY printer. The Aim of this project was to build a converter kit for my V2 model into a Core YX printer and by reusing as many original parts of Ender 3 v2 as possible. The second goal of this build was to keep the...
www.thingiverse.com
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Seems odd it doesn't have a crossbar at the top front. Convenient for getting to the bed but would have thought it'd make it less rigid.
Soldato
Agreed!!
Soldato
Thinking I should buy a second V400 delta printer. It wasn't fun only having the one "production" printer. Prob wait till I move though.
Soldato
Just watching a German video on YouTube about changing the hotend on my printer and this just made me laugh.
YouTube Auto Translate.
then it got a bit personal
YouTube Auto Translate.
then it got a bit personal
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Having some leveling issues with my tina2 printer. Its does its auto level thing touching 3 points but the 2nd point which is to the right hand side it goes down too low and digs into the bed.
What could cause this issue? The z probe lights up as normal.
What could cause this issue? The z probe lights up as normal.
Not entirely my field but in the absence of any better answers 
A few things that spring to mind:
1. The bed is not flat - either it's bowed or just off-level - to the extent that the hotend hits it before it gets to the range that it starts listening to the sensor to see when to stop.
2. The G-Code for the probing routine is naff.
3. Is there an endstop for the bed height (or hotend height depending which moves on yours) that might be misadjusted so the bed comes up too high?
Can you move the head about manually (with the power off if necessary to unlock the steppers) and adjust the bed using a piece of paper under the nozzle - should just drag when the gap is correct but be careful you don't assume you can move it from where it is adjusted to the next point without it gouging the bed. Might even be worth checking with something thicker first to give yourself more margin for error.
Auto-leveling does work but ideally you want it to be just compensating for a little bow in the bed or if the bed goes a nat's off kilter. Otherwise you see it going up and down the entire time it's doing just a flat layer (no prizes for guessing who's bed is more warped than a politician's morals!)
G-Code if that's a problem could be an update either to software or firmware - depends what does the probing.
A few things that spring to mind:1. The bed is not flat - either it's bowed or just off-level - to the extent that the hotend hits it before it gets to the range that it starts listening to the sensor to see when to stop.
2. The G-Code for the probing routine is naff.
3. Is there an endstop for the bed height (or hotend height depending which moves on yours) that might be misadjusted so the bed comes up too high?
Can you move the head about manually (with the power off if necessary to unlock the steppers) and adjust the bed using a piece of paper under the nozzle - should just drag when the gap is correct but be careful you don't assume you can move it from where it is adjusted to the next point without it gouging the bed. Might even be worth checking with something thicker first to give yourself more margin for error.
Auto-leveling does work but ideally you want it to be just compensating for a little bow in the bed or if the bed goes a nat's off kilter. Otherwise you see it going up and down the entire time it's doing just a flat layer (no prizes for guessing who's bed is more warped than a politician's morals!)
G-Code if that's a problem could be an update either to software or firmware - depends what does the probing.