Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Jul 2012
- Posts
- 16,088
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- London
You shouldn't really need to use the scraper. Just be patient and let the bed cool down a bit - remove it if necessary.
Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
Did the printer need any type of update when you first connected it to your network..?
The printer and maybe the AMS needed a firmware update this took about 5 minutes and was part of the setup process.
Which sliver, if applicable, are you using..?
I think the silver you are referring to is actually the metal scraper blade that was supplied with the machine, I just printed the green part.
Was the AMS unit simple enough to hook up, being on top of the printer..? Those empty filament spaces need filling, lol.
The AMS was extremely easy to setup, just 2 cables and then just sit the spool in the unit and feed filament into the hole at which point the machine takes over.
Where you bought it from, unlike Bambu direct, they didn't seem to have an offer on filament if buying a printer..?
I did see the offer for filament but in the end just bought some from Amazon, Sunlu as recommended above, would have been nice to order direct and take advantage of the savings but I am far to impatience for that!
@roccles Thanks appreciate the reply..
Damn fat fingers, meant to write slicer not silver. Wondering if you tried Orca slicer yet.?
Seems to be working well for you.
BTW I spoke to Ben from the shop you bought the printer from. Great advice and some good links to the Bambu website to show the types of filament and their preferred use.
I can link to them if you need it, when I get back home.
Damn fat fingers, meant to write slicer not silver. Wondering if you tried Orca slicer yet.?
Seems to be working well for you.
BTW I spoke to Ben from the shop you bought the printer from. Great advice and some good links to the Bambu website to show the types of filament and their preferred use.
I can link to them if you need it, when I get back home.
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Yes, he said the twelve months warranty will be with them and dealt with, UK based. Without needing to communicate direct with BL and should be an easier experience, if needed.
They are available by phone, video chat etc if needed.
Excellent sounds good. Thanks for the info
Here you go, many links branch off from these...
3D Printer Filament Comparison Guide | Bambu Lab
Explore the best filament for your 3D printing needs with Bambu Lab's comparison guide. Compare PLA, PETG, ABS, and more based on strength, flexibility, and application. Find your perfect filament now!
bambulab.com
Ultimate 3D Printer Filament Guide | Bambu Lab
Discover the perfect 3D printing filament with Bambu Lab's comprehensive guide. Find high-quality filaments for every project.
bambulab.com
Water Resistant 3D Printing Filament | Bambu Lab
Explore best water-resistant 3D printing filaments at Bambu Lab. Perfect for waterproof prints. Buy now for high-quality, durable results.
bambulab.com
Ultimate Guide to ABS 3D Printing Filament | Bambu Lab
Explore everything you need to know about ABS 3D printing filament with Bambu Lab's comprehensive guide. Learn about ABS's properties, applications, and expert tips for optimal printing results.
bambulab.com
and so on.
Hope they help.
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Thank you
I'm not sure if the P1S has the lidar option to auto-calibrate. It's certainly possible to do it manually but in case it's useful, the auto-calibration results I get for Sunlu PETG are: K: 0.025 Flow: 0.887 (black), 0.897 (white), 0.917 (grey) so maybe go for 0.9 as a start point.
I'll summarise all of that for you....and let me know if I'm wrong, I'd quite like to be
PLA: good for decorative stuff, fairly quick (the high-speed stuff in particular), cheap and easily available in many colours. But, melts/bends if you use it in a car (although, probably not in winter!), tends to snap/shatter if pushed too far.
PETG: stonger, easy to print, maybe not as many colours. More UV resistant. Higher melting point so useable in cars. More flexible (less rigid) which can be a pro or a con - you want a flexi-hinge or a snap-lock and this is for you, you want something that doesn't bend, not so much. More rigid if you make it bigger. Most other stuff you'll wonder why you bothered and come back to this!
ABS: smellier, prints awfully without a heated chamber (active preferably but passively heated at min), still warps horribly, pain to print. Stong and with higher melting point but not very UV resistant (apparently).
ASA: The supposed golden evolution of ABS that's less smelly, UV resistant and doesn't warp as much. Warps horribly - surprise! It's possible to glue it down and I found that solid base layers worked better than solid followed by infill. Still a pain and no massive benefit over PETG...which is cheaper and easier and you'll wonder why you bothered.
Nylon: Haven't tried it. Good for things like gears as it's strong and a bit slippery. Supposed to soak up water like a sponge so a drier is a must.
PLA-CF: Needs a hardened nozzle as it's abrasive. Looks nice but isn't really much stronger. The Ziro PLA-CF printed very nicely. More of a matt finish.
PETG-CF: Eryone's was a pain - really dribbly. Bambu's wasn't as bad but still needed a little care by slowing down on some of the top layers so it stuck down to the infill properly. Very stong though -currently storing 17 spools in storage containers (picture in an earlier post) on shelf brackets made of this.
PET-CF: (note lack of G) Very high temp tolerance, expensive. Good if you need the temperature tolerance - hits about 200°C if I remember correctly.
ABS-GF: Supposed to be a lot better than ABS in terms of warping and dimensional accuracy. Got some, haven't tried it yet.
Glow in the dark: Meh, it's all new safe stuff so it won't glow like you remember from your childhood. Shine a UV torch (from your favourite online supplied) at it and it will charge and glow a bit...just don't expect it to glow brightly for very long before recharging.
I'll summarise all of that for you....and let me know if I'm wrong, I'd quite like to be
PLA: good for decorative stuff, fairly quick (the high-speed stuff in particular), cheap and easily available in many colours. But, melts/bends if you use it in a car (although, probably not in winter!), tends to snap/shatter if pushed too far.
PETG: stonger, easy to print, maybe not as many colours. More UV resistant. Higher melting point so useable in cars. More flexible (less rigid) which can be a pro or a con - you want a flexi-hinge or a snap-lock and this is for you, you want something that doesn't bend, not so much. More rigid if you make it bigger. Most other stuff you'll wonder why you bothered and come back to this!
ABS: smellier, prints awfully without a heated chamber (active preferably but passively heated at min), still warps horribly, pain to print. Stong and with higher melting point but not very UV resistant (apparently).
ASA: The supposed golden evolution of ABS that's less smelly, UV resistant and doesn't warp as much. Warps horribly - surprise! It's possible to glue it down and I found that solid base layers worked better than solid followed by infill. Still a pain and no massive benefit over PETG...which is cheaper and easier and you'll wonder why you bothered.
Nylon: Haven't tried it. Good for things like gears as it's strong and a bit slippery. Supposed to soak up water like a sponge so a drier is a must.
PLA-CF: Needs a hardened nozzle as it's abrasive. Looks nice but isn't really much stronger. The Ziro PLA-CF printed very nicely. More of a matt finish.
PETG-CF: Eryone's was a pain - really dribbly. Bambu's wasn't as bad but still needed a little care by slowing down on some of the top layers so it stuck down to the infill properly. Very stong though -currently storing 17 spools in storage containers (picture in an earlier post) on shelf brackets made of this.
PET-CF: (note lack of G) Very high temp tolerance, expensive. Good if you need the temperature tolerance - hits about 200°C if I remember correctly.
ABS-GF: Supposed to be a lot better than ABS in terms of warping and dimensional accuracy. Got some, haven't tried it yet.
Glow in the dark: Meh, it's all new safe stuff so it won't glow like you remember from your childhood. Shine a UV torch (from your favourite online supplied) at it and it will charge and glow a bit...just don't expect it to glow brightly for very long before recharging.
I'm not sure if the P1S has the lidar option to auto-calibrate. It's certainly possible to do it manually but in case it's useful, the auto-calibration results I get for Sunlu PETG are: K: 0.025 Flow: 0.887 (black), 0.897 (white), 0.917 (grey) so maybe go for 0.9 as a start point.
I'll summarise all of that for you....and let me know if I'm wrong, I'd quite like to be
PLA: good for decorative stuff, fairly quick (the high-speed stuff in particular), cheap and easily available in many colours. But, melts/bends if you use it in a car (although, probably not in winter!), tends to snap/shatter if pushed too far.
PETG: stonger, easy to print, maybe not as many colours. More UV resistant. Higher melting point so useable in cars. More flexible (less rigid) which can be a pro or a con - you want a flexi-hinge or a snap-lock and this is for you, you want something that doesn't bend, not so much. More rigid if you make it bigger. Most other stuff you'll wonder why you bothered and come back to this!
ABS: smellier, prints awfully without a heated chamber (active preferably but passively heated at min), still warps horribly, pain to print. Stong and with higher melting point but not very UV resistant (apparently).
ASA: The supposed golden evolution of ABS that's less smelly, UV resistant and doesn't warp as much. Warps horribly - surprise! It's possible to glue it down and I found that solid base layers worked better than solid followed by infill. Still a pain and no massive benefit over PETG...which is cheaper and easier and you'll wonder why you bothered.
Nylon: Haven't tried it. Good for things like gears as it's strong and a bit slippery. Supposed to soak up water like a sponge so a drier is a must.
PLA-CF: Needs a hardened nozzle as it's abrasive. Looks nice but isn't really much stronger. The Ziro PLA-CF printed very nicely. More of a matt finish.
PETG-CF: Eryone's was a pain - really dribbly. Bambu's wasn't as bad but still needed a little care by slowing down on some of the top layers so it stuck down to the infill properly. Very stong though -currently storing 17 spools in storage containers (picture in an earlier post) on shelf brackets made of this.
PET-CF: (note lack of G) Very high temp tolerance, expensive. Good if you need the temperature tolerance - hits about 200°C if I remember correctly.
ABS-GF: Supposed to be a lot better than ABS in terms of warping and dimensional accuracy. Got some, haven't tried it yet.
Glow in the dark: Meh, it's all new safe stuff so it won't glow like you remember from your childhood. Shine a UV torch (from your favourite online supplied) at it and it will charge and glow a bit...just don't expect it to glow brightly for very long before recharging.
That is most impressive, well done
I did download a collection of the pdf files for certain filament types. To remind me of their qualities and what the more typical uses they can be used for.
They can all be used to print parts that don't quite fit....no prizes for guessing how much swearing is currently going on! Oh, also....using a hammer to 'encourage' them to fit, can result in the part splitting and producing more colourful language 
Associate
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- 18 Oct 2002
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- 1,820
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- T'internet
Been printing this multiboard.io all week on my Bambu A1. Just one more plate of caps to finish and then I have to decide what hooks, shelves, bins etc that I need to make. So impressed with the system and the printer
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Alright, THIS is what's been giving me grief. This is the reprint with all one spool of filament - rather than the hodgepodge of two different brands of white that looked awful and cracked because it didn't fit.
The dovetails are tapered with one tapered top to bottom and the smaller tapered bottom to top. The idea is taken from NeedItMakeIt's video on joining prints.
Can ya tell what it is yet?!
Now this is what was frustrating me. These are my test print in Sunlu black PETG with zero clearance and it fitted perfectly. The black one before that with 0.1mm (0.05 per side) was too loose! Then the white one is my 2nd test print in white because the fit was completely differently to the black. Had to add taper to the longest dovetail and also 0.1mm of clearance but left the others as they were - they were short enough that a tap of a hammer should seat them.
And the finished article with 3mm steel dowel pins just to really make sure. It's just under 300g of filament per side....'cos I didn't want it to break Sides are 3-4mm, bottom is 10mm (for the dovetails mainly) and it's 4 wall with 25% crosshatch infill.
Why so much swearing? Well, if you look along the long edge, you'll see a line all the way round it about 9-10mm up from the bottom. Yeah, that's not in the model and prints every time...except the cut-down joint tests where it doesn't happen. No idea why (answers on a postcard please!) but it seems to be at the start of the top layers that sit on the infill. I designed in a recessed channel on the 2nd part to try and stop it interfereing in the dovetail...because 0.12mm of ridge (on each side) is a problem when you have zero clearance. There's another sort of layer shift on one part (left side of this pic) towards the top. That's annoying but not functionally problematic.
There's probably one question left: Why?! Well, obviously the original cracked - I think it got overstuffed at Christmas and the wedging action cracked the bottom out. There must be replacements available I hear you say! Well, that's what I thought but they're £30-odd quid plus shipping and take up to three weeks. Neither part of that was appealing!
The dovetails are tapered with one tapered top to bottom and the smaller tapered bottom to top. The idea is taken from NeedItMakeIt's video on joining prints.
Can ya tell what it is yet?!
Now this is what was frustrating me. These are my test print in Sunlu black PETG with zero clearance and it fitted perfectly. The black one before that with 0.1mm (0.05 per side) was too loose! Then the white one is my 2nd test print in white because the fit was completely differently to the black.
Had to add taper to the longest dovetail and also 0.1mm of clearance but left the others as they were - they were short enough that a tap of a hammer should seat them.
And the finished article with 3mm steel dowel pins just to really make sure. It's just under 300g of filament per side....'cos I didn't want it to break
Sides are 3-4mm, bottom is 10mm (for the dovetails mainly) and it's 4 wall with 25% crosshatch infill.
Why so much swearing? Well, if you look along the long edge, you'll see a line all the way round it about 9-10mm up from the bottom. Yeah, that's not in the model and prints every time...except the cut-down joint tests where it doesn't happen. No idea why (answers on a postcard please!) but it seems to be at the start of the top layers that sit on the infill. I designed in a recessed channel on the 2nd part to try and stop it interfereing in the dovetail...because 0.12mm of ridge (on each side) is a problem when you have zero clearance. There's another sort of layer shift on one part (left side of this pic) towards the top. That's annoying but not functionally problematic.
There's probably one question left: Why?! Well, obviously the original cracked - I think it got overstuffed at Christmas and the wedging action cracked the bottom out. There must be replacements available I hear you say! Well, that's what I thought but they're £30-odd quid plus shipping and take up to three weeks. Neither part of that was appealing!
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 4,888
- Location
- Blackburn
Just got a Bambu Lab A1 and now just seen this?
Should Bambu users be worried or is this just a big overreaction?
Caporegime
- Joined
- 7 Apr 2008
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- 25,137
- Location
- Lorville - Hurston
Worrying indeed. Just caught wind on this
Associate
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 1,820
- Location
- T'internet
It's blowing up a lot. I wouldn't be surprised if Bambu walk back some of it as they are going to lose a lot of potential business from this.
It depends, like you it wont affect my usage but its pretty bad form from them so its more of a general not wanting to support businesses who do that sort of stuff.
The Ender 3 V3 SE is the same price (£169), bit less plug and play but has a bigger bed.
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It’s a bit of both, the printers are inherently insecure, the reaction to the being made more secure is massively overblown.
For your use case, you’ll probably not notice any difference. It’s only those who use un authenticated MQTT commands that seems to be impacted (e.g. home assistant, 3rd party controls etc.