Random 3D printing chatter

don't worry with designing your own parts. its not exactly easy thing to do.
plenty free stuff to print like other say...
 
pastymuncher said:
Thanks for the pointers guys, this is a steep learning curve for me as I have never used any software like this before. I have given up on that idea as I just couldn't get it to do what I wanted, I couldn't even do the "cut" tutorial in Tinkercad despite following the steps exactly. I have found a better poop chute design anyway but I really need to get my head around all this software if I ever want to make the most of my Centauri Carbon.
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Just checking in wondering if you are enjoying it yet or have slung it in the bin lol.
 
Cenedd said:
I'd be curious why you use nylon. "Because I wanted to" is a perfectly fine answer, I'm just curious as to if there are any properties you particularly need for what you're printing. I know when I started, I aspired to be able to print ABS. Now that I can (and have a roll), I struggle to work out why I'd need it. To the point I haven't bothered because of the disadvantages...and ASA that I tried (and used for something because it was the right colour) was a pain.
PET-CF I get. Used that because I really needed the 200°C temperature tolerance for a replacement part.
Nylon I think of for gears but I have heard that the friction coefficient of things like PETG-GF isn't that different enough to make that much difference.
Don't take this as some sort of "You're doing that wrong", I could print nylon, I'm just trying to work out WHY... otherwise I could end up with another roll in storage! :D
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I have used nylon for some security camera mounts, needed something to survive outside. hopefully it was the best option for the job, time will tell I guess!
 
Well, it's comforting to know I'm not the only one in the same boat then! :D
I was randomly watching a video on types of nylon (6 vs 12) and the strengths etc. It seems like it's hygroscopic to the point of being a pain, absorbs water after it's printed anyway and significantly changes its strengths having done so. Also seems to need to be annealed after printing or it'll lose massive amounts of strength when it then abosrbs water. Not trying to come across as saying you used the wrong stuff...just genuinely trying to work out when it's necessary to fight all these downsides rather than just 'well it seemed like it probably ought to be the stuff to use'....and again, I'm not having a dig there, I'm in exactly the same position.
 
This might actually get me to buy a 3D printer rather be limited by the P1S at work...


I think I'll wait for the H2C to be released that has the Vortek system already equipped rather than get a H2S now and have to retrofit it.
 
Well new lesson learnt.
The PC4 M10 overseas fittings don't let the Bowden all the way through so I was getting confused as to why I was having clogging issues.
I have now ordered some that should be ok now. It's been a fun learning curve with the Ender 3 V2 and I'm slowly getting there.
 
I think both flavours are available: those that bottom out and those that pass through.
Also worth noting (in case you're designing something that mates with a PC4-M10) that despite being called M10, they're NOT an M10 thread. They are a BSPP thread (British Standard Pipe Parallel) a 1/8" if I remember correctly.
 
Cenedd said:
I think both flavours are available: those that bottom out and those that pass through.
Also worth noting (in case you're designing something that mates with a PC4-M10) that despite being called M10, they're NOT an M10 thread. They are a BSPP thread (British Standard Pipe Parallel) a 1/8" if I remember correctly.
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Does the bottom out and pass through depend on the hotend version or brand?
Thank you for that info. I took it as an M10 thread.
 
Brackish said:
I took it as an M10 thread
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Yeah, you wouldn't be the first. There are a number of models that have it as an M10 thread but luckily the sizes are close enough that the threads can bite into the soft plastic - not great though if you want to remove them and screw them in again...or just if you like things done properly! :D

Just had a look and it might be that I'm thinking of the PC4-M6 which don't pass through. The PC4-M10's I've got (from the bay) have a black release button and are pass-through if that helps.
 
Cenedd said:
Yeah, you wouldn't be the first. There are a number of models that have it as an M10 thread but luckily the sizes are close enough that the threads can bite into the soft plastic - not great though if you want to remove them and screw them in again...or just if you like things done properly! :D

Just had a look and it might be that I'm thinking of the PC4-M6 which don't pass through. The PC4-M10's I've got (from the bay) have a black release button and are pass-through if that helps.
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I have an M6 (white and a spare with blue) on the metal extruder which does not pass through and the M10 (both have been black) on the hot end which from the videos I have just watched show that is should pass through and the Bowden tube should sit right in up to the nozzle. The one I currently have does not pass through so the filament is getting melted in the chamber (the red block) and clogging which then is causing the extruder to click back.
Thank you for the info, it led me to sort my terrible Google skills and now I have some PC4-M10 fittings arriving tomorrow:D
 
Just about finished getting all my 3D printing stuff all in one room now. In the same room as my server rack so should stay relatively warm over Winter (it's about 30C in there right now with a window open). Might as well benefit from that extra heat :D
Final step will be to get an inline exhaust system to vent outside but haven't decided how I'm going to do that yet. Any suggestions/critiques of the whole setup are welcome.
From left to right : Server rack (NAS), Elegoo Centauri Carbon, Bambu A1 +AMS, Halot-X1 +AFU x2, Elegoo Saturn 3, Elegoo Mercury Plus 3.0, Creality UW-02

I keep telling myself that this is just a hobby :D

 
BeelzebubUK said:
I keep telling myself that this is just a hobby :D
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That's not a hobby, it's a marriage....or the end of one! ;)
Rack (what we can see of it) looks decent but I reckon there's a fair few spindles and 'enterprise' fans in there for a fair amount of noise. Mine's under the stairs so noise is a serious concern - to the point that I went all flash in the end. Once you hear the whine of disk while you're lying in bed, that's it! EK Varder at the bottom of the cupboard for intake and EK Varder for exhaust at the top - down a 100mm duct through 13" of external wall....or at least it WAS external and now it's kitchen :rolleyes:
 
Cenedd said:
That's not a hobby, it's a marriage....or the end of one! ;)
Rack (what we can see of it) looks decent but I reckon there's a fair few spindles and 'enterprise' fans in there for a fair amount of noise. Mine's under the stairs so noise is a serious concern - to the point that I went all flash in the end. Once you hear the whine of disk while you're lying in bed, that's it! EK Varder at the bottom of the cupboard for intake and EK Varder for exhaust at the top - down a 100mm duct through 13" of external wall....or at least it WAS external and now it's kitchen :rolleyes:
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My house has a 2 floor extension (like an annex) connected by a door from the living room. This is in the upstairs part so the noise is very isolated from the rest of the house (especially the rack) as it's double brick wall between the main house so works out perfectly for all the noise everything generates.

The rack has 2x Supermicro server chassis which have very loud fans :D

I must be married to the hobby then as I'm single :D
 
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