Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
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Just checking in wondering if you are enjoying it yet or have slung it in the bin lol.
I have used nylon for some security camera mounts, needed something to survive outside. hopefully it was the best option for the job, time will tell I guess!I'd be curious why you use nylon. "Because I wanted to" is a perfectly fine answer, I'm just curious as to if there are any properties you particularly need for what you're printing. I know when I started, I aspired to be able to print ABS. Now that I can (and have a roll), I struggle to work out why I'd need it. To the point I haven't bothered because of the disadvantages...and ASA that I tried (and used for something because it was the right colour) was a pain.
PET-CF I get. Used that because I really needed the 200°C temperature tolerance for a replacement part.
Nylon I think of for gears but I have heard that the friction coefficient of things like PETG-GF isn't that different enough to make that much difference.
Don't take this as some sort of "You're doing that wrong", I could print nylon, I'm just trying to work out WHY... otherwise I could end up with another roll in storage!
Well, it's comforting to know I'm not the only one in the same boat then!
I was randomly watching a video on types of nylon (6 vs 12) and the strengths etc. It seems like it's hygroscopic to the point of being a pain, absorbs water after it's printed anyway and significantly changes its strengths having done so. Also seems to need to be annealed after printing or it'll lose massive amounts of strength when it then abosrbs water. Not trying to come across as saying you used the wrong stuff...just genuinely trying to work out when it's necessary to fight all these downsides rather than just 'well it seemed like it probably ought to be the stuff to use'....and again, I'm not having a dig there, I'm in exactly the same position.
I was randomly watching a video on types of nylon (6 vs 12) and the strengths etc. It seems like it's hygroscopic to the point of being a pain, absorbs water after it's printed anyway and significantly changes its strengths having done so. Also seems to need to be annealed after printing or it'll lose massive amounts of strength when it then abosrbs water. Not trying to come across as saying you used the wrong stuff...just genuinely trying to work out when it's necessary to fight all these downsides rather than just 'well it seemed like it probably ought to be the stuff to use'....and again, I'm not having a dig there, I'm in exactly the same position.
Well new lesson learnt.
The PC4 M10 overseas fittings don't let the Bowden all the way through so I was getting confused as to why I was having clogging issues.
I have now ordered some that should be ok now. It's been a fun learning curve with the Ender 3 V2 and I'm slowly getting there.
The PC4 M10 overseas fittings don't let the Bowden all the way through so I was getting confused as to why I was having clogging issues.
I have now ordered some that should be ok now. It's been a fun learning curve with the Ender 3 V2 and I'm slowly getting there.
I think both flavours are available: those that bottom out and those that pass through.
Also worth noting (in case you're designing something that mates with a PC4-M10) that despite being called M10, they're NOT an M10 thread. They are a BSPP thread (British Standard Pipe Parallel) a 1/8" if I remember correctly.
Also worth noting (in case you're designing something that mates with a PC4-M10) that despite being called M10, they're NOT an M10 thread. They are a BSPP thread (British Standard Pipe Parallel) a 1/8" if I remember correctly.
Does the bottom out and pass through depend on the hotend version or brand?
Thank you for that info. I took it as an M10 thread.
Yeah, you wouldn't be the first. There are a number of models that have it as an M10 thread but luckily the sizes are close enough that the threads can bite into the soft plastic - not great though if you want to remove them and screw them in again...or just if you like things done properly!
Just had a look and it might be that I'm thinking of the PC4-M6 which don't pass through. The PC4-M10's I've got (from the bay) have a black release button and are pass-through if that helps.
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I love it, I have been printing loads of cat related models and yesterday it spent all day printing upgrades/mods for itself.
I have an M6 (white and a spare with blue) on the metal extruder which does not pass through and the M10 (both have been black) on the hot end which from the videos I have just watched show that is should pass through and the Bowden tube should sit right in up to the nozzle. The one I currently have does not pass through so the filament is getting melted in the chamber (the red block) and clogging which then is causing the extruder to click back.Yeah, you wouldn't be the first. There are a number of models that have it as an M10 thread but luckily the sizes are close enough that the threads can bite into the soft plastic - not great though if you want to remove them and screw them in again...or just if you like things done properly!
Just had a look and it might be that I'm thinking of the PC4-M6 which don't pass through. The PC4-M10's I've got (from the bay) have a black release button and are pass-through if that helps.
Thank you for the info, it led me to sort my terrible Google skills and now I have some PC4-M10 fittings arriving tomorrow