Random 3D printing chatter

Good luck. Hopefully something isn't bent. Could be a limit switch bent/missing? Can't remember (and can't be bothered to go look) how they've implemented limits on the mini. Hopefully it isn't done on strain (motor can't push it past actual stop and the resistance is detected as limit) as that could show there's a sticky point on the rail it's interpreting as the end.

A factory reset seemed to sort it, and new purge cutter arrived today :)
 
I watch quite a few YouTube videos about 3D printing, I especially like the more technical channels like My Tech Fun but I also like the more mainstream stuff. I’m currently looking at getting into more technical filaments and watching some videos about PET-CF as I think I’ll start there.

One thing they all do that really annoys me is handle build plates without gloves. Why oh why don’t people put some gloves on? Yes I know you can clean the plate after handling it but wearing gloves means I don’t have to clean the plate as often.

I need to get out more.
 
You do....need to get out more! ;) :p
I mostly scrape prints off with the Bambu scraper blade on a printed handle. Those I need to flex, I only really handle the edge of the plate so it doesn't really cause a problem. As you say, worst case a wipe down with IPA sorts it out in less time than it takes to, well, put on a pair of gloves. But hey, if it works for you and makes you happy, it's not wrong.
There's some good content in the MyTechFun but it's very dry and a hard listen.
PET-CF is good if you need the heat tolerance. Pricey though. Have a look at PETG-GF by Tinmorry if you don't need the high temp tolerance. It not quite as stiff but it's a darn sight cheaper and prints beautifully.
 
So printer all back up and working.

Have some PETG arriving today, apparently its “harder” to print with, but I’m assuming that being a Bambu, if I get a file from maker world designed for PETG I’ll run into minimal problems?
 
PETG is no harder than PLA on a modern machine. If you've got a naff extruder at the end of a Bowden tube and hence can't get retraction right, it can be stringy. Bambu's all have direct drive (extruder in the print head) so you'll be fine. The nozzle and bed temps need to be higher and the speed, cooling and retraction settings need to be different...but either Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer will take care of that for you once you tell it what the filament is. The only thing you might need to do is print a pressure advance calibration pattern so you can set that for the filament. If it's a Bambu filament, it should be pre-set.
Sunlu works quite well for PETG if you haven't already got. The only complaint I've got is their grey is a bit unevenly coloured but prints fine.

PETG can be a bit more hygroscopic than PLA so if you find it later starts stringing or snapping (can get brittle) it might need drying.
 
Speaking about PETG, and other filaments, what are peoples opinions on tweaking the stock profiles, or just downloading someone else's profiles?

I always use the stock profile as a base, then calibrate to the filament and save it out as my own version, but you see a lot of people just randomly downloading other peoples profiles and then running them, not knowing whats been changed etc, makes no sense to me as I'd like to know what I'm asking the machine to do...
 
I print a lot of PETG, it’s so much easier to print than it was when I bought my first 3D printer.

When I download a 3mf I check what’s different from my standard profile as that’s easy given Bambu Studio highlights what’s been changed. I’m sure other slicers do the same.
 
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