RC cars

arknor said:
I'm thinking of the https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/tamiya-tt-02-type-s-chassis-58600
tt-02 I've seen it advised as a great entry level chassis because it has a ton of upgrades you can buy

Shaft driven 4wd
www.tamiya.com

1/10 SCALE R/C 4WD HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING CAR TT-02 TYPE-SRX CHASSIS KIT

1/10 SCALE R/C 4WD HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING CAR TT-02 TYPE-SRX CHASSIS KIT
www.tamiya.com www.tamiya.com
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Yeah for on road stuff - touring cars are all 4WD or FWD.

RWD on road racing tends to be limited to pan cars (like LMP / F1 etc or 12th scale minis).
 
made some good progress on the tamiya wild one, got the body shell cut out earlier and in progress on the spray painting :)

before i opened the box i looked out and sorted electronics for it including a new hobby wing 1060 esc i had kicking about and i was very surprised to find an almost identical one in the box when i opened it, only visible difference was the heat sink colour, about time tamiya started doing proper brushed esc's with their cars :)

tamiya torque tuned motor to start with and gonna use 2s on a 18 tooth steel pinion
Fc6In99.jpg
 
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Yrkoon said:
made some good progress on the tamiya wild one, got the body shell cut out earlier and in progress on the spray painting :)

before i opened the box i looked out and sorted electronics for it including a new hobby wing 1060 esc i had kicking about and i was very surprised to find an almost identical one in the box when i opened it, only visible difference was the heat sink colour, about time tamiya started doing proper brushed esc's with their cars :)

tamiya torque tuned motor to start with and gonna use 2s on a 18 tooth steel pinion
Fc6In99.jpg
Click to expand...
During the pandemic when the chip shortage happened Tamiya had a large batch of HW1060 (known as THW1060 in Tamiya part listings) produced with different colourings and labels on later versions.

At the time Tamiya TBLE02 and newer TBLE04 couldn't be produced cost effectively in large numbers - they've continued this post pandemic, any kit you find now containing a TBLE02 ESC is most likely old stock, and very few kits ship with the TBLE04.

Tamiya's main distributor in Europe has been doing there own thing and importing kits with no ESC and putting a Carson Dragster ESC in the box (which is basically another 1060 from HW - but it has a 70 amp rating) - quite a few of those kits make there way to the UK through Amazon and eBay so you see them appear here too.
 
BongoHunter said:
During the pandemic when the chip shortage happened Tamiya had a large batch of HW1060 (known as THW1060 in Tamiya part listings) produced with different colourings and labels on later versions.

At the time Tamiya TBLE02 and newer TBLE04 couldn't be produced cost effectively in large numbers - they've continued this post pandemic, any kit you find now containing a TBLE02 ESC is most likely old stock, and very few kits ship with the TBLE04.

Tamiya's main distributor in Europe has been doing there own thing and importing kits with no ESC and putting a Carson Dragster ESC in the box (which is basically another 1060 from HW - but it has a 70 amp rating) - quite a few of those kits make there way to the UK through Amazon and eBay so you see them appear here too.
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ah that makes sense i have tamiya kits that had they esc's they usually go in a spares box never to see the light of day again as no lipo compatability lol

my lunch box has a 1060 in it and so do my grasshopper 1 and 2 instead of the tble something ones, that end up in my spares and adds on 20 quid for a 1060 :)
 
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more or less finished the wild one now im still debating about puting in the wee man in the cockpit :)

WYIbPqn.jpg


2OfHHe5.jpg


4yWe8s7.jpg


eWrsmjY.jpg


dark room test
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woot all seems to work and had a range issue on its first run, the steering servo was a bit dodgy so i replaced it and dremmelled a wee bit around the battery tray etc for my normal 2s batteries to fit, runs pretty well and is really fun on the torque tuned tamiya motor and 2s with the 18 tooth pinion, the motor only got mildly warm and i had it out putting it through its paces for about 40 mins :)
 
arknor said:
What is that a bikepark/bmx track?
It's not bashing if nothing breaks and branches on that tree don't count
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Its just a large green area called Dartford Heath, has a bit of everything in there so its perfect and at least early in the morning the risk of casualties is lower :D
 
Yesterday I went and collected something off eBay which looked to good to be true, however in those rare circumstances it turned out even better than expected!

RC room, tools and car = UPGRADED!

Untitled by Brian McGinty, on Flickr

Untitled by Brian McGinty, on Flickr

To highlight size difference...

Untitled by Brian McGinty, on Flickr


Xmaxx with tons of upgrades and optional parts, lots of spares and the original parts, Snap-on tool chest and snap on tools plus lots of other bits inc batteries charger etc..

What a result.
 
MrMcG said:
is there a way to move them here?

I made that old thread without realising this existed.. I broke the flow :D
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yeh mods if possible could you move my wild one posts to this thread? :)

any ways heres a pic of the wild one :p

3000B7N.jpg


actually made it handle a lot better earlier today, took pistons out of the shocks as they had mental damping and way too stiff, and as the piston discs were so soft i used my model knife to make the tiny too small holes into slots 3 on the front one piston and 2 on the back piston, to get the oil flowing better inside them and then i used the lighest shock oil i had, and i also removed the red shock preloads for the front ones, it handles way better now and i can see the shocks actually working a bit now instead of rolling and flipping over lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgMyr9Ch2Ms thats what i done, doen it on the back ones 2 and just need softer springs for the back, might be able to find some about the right diameter and cut them in half since the backsprings are tiny :)
 
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Yrkoon said:
yeh mods if possible could you move my wild one posts to this thread? :)

any ways heres a pic of the wild one :p

3000B7N.jpg


actually made it handle a lot better earlier today, took pistons out of the shocks as they had mental damping and way too stiff, and as the piston discs were so soft i used my model knife to make the tiny too small holes into slots 3 on the front one piston and 2 on the back piston, to get the oil flowing better inside them and then i used the lighest shock oil i had, and i also removed the red shock preloads for the front ones, it handles way better now and i can see the shocks actually working a bit now instead of rolling and flipping over lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgMyr9Ch2Ms thats what i done, doen it on the back ones 2 and just need softer springs for the back, might be able to find some about the right diameter and cut them in half since the backsprings are tiny :)
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i have reported my wild one posts and requested the mods move them here :)

for any one that has or is thinking of getting a wild one get one of these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/produc...ector-for-tamiya-wild-one-fast-attack-1352722

it protects the back of the cage and the gear box and motor and at the moment it is also doubling as a wheely bar lmao, got so many scuffs and indents on the protetctor its unbelievable and that is only on 2s with a tamiya torque tuned motor lmao
 
Anybody know the best way to get surface rust of screws, i left my cars in my shed for too long and now all the screws have a layer of brown on them, i wouldnt mind too muich, but im thinking of putting them up for sale and want to leave them in top condition.
 
khevolution said:
Anybody know the best way to get surface rust of screws, i left my cars in my shed for too long and now all the screws have a layer of brown on them, i wouldnt mind too muich, but im thinking of putting them up for sale and want to leave them in top condition.
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GT-85 works well or you can buy boxes of assorted screws on Amazon and just replace the rusty ones.
 
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