Road Cycling Essentials

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Ok guys, just got some cool clip in peddles and shoes :P, and just fitted them this morning, just tried it while holding on to a bench and nearly fell off lol.

I foresee a lot of injuries ahead of me, any tips from anyone lol.

Get into a habit of doing the same thing every time you stop. Unclip the same foot every time.

Also, while you are still getting used to them, try to unclip as early as possible just so you dont get stuck.

Chances are you'll have a few falls (everyone does) but as it only happens when your coming to a stop at a slow speed, you're not as likely to injure yourself (but it can still happen)
 
Ok guys, just got some cool clip in peddles and shoes :P, and just fitted them this morning, just tried it while holding on to a bench and nearly fell off lol.

I foresee a lot of injuries ahead of me, any tips from anyone lol.
Just come up with a routine when stopping and it will soon be muscle memory. For me, it's always un-clipping my right foot, never my left.
 
Just come up with a routine when stopping and it will soon be muscle memory. For me, it's always un-clipping my right foot, never my left.

I always go with my left - its easier to get your right foot in and out (as a right hander) but I find in traffic its much safer to be leaning to the left away from the middle of the road so if you do mess up and fall your not in traffic - you also have your stronger leg leading as you pull off...
 
I always go with my left - its easier to get your right foot in and out (as a right hander) but I find in traffic its much safer to be leaning to the left away from the middle of the road so if you do mess up and fall your not in traffic - you also have your stronger leg leading as you pull off...

Snap. It's also easier to remain in the saddle and put your foot on the kerb than get off the saddle and put your foot on the road.
 
From the thread on BR:

Asprilla said:
OK, I finally got my backside into gear. The sealant arrived and I had a few hours to spare so I finally go the tyres / wheels on!

Things worth noting; brushing the sides of the tyres with soapy water between mounting them and inflating them is very important. It lubricates proceedings and it also helps you identify there the air is leaking out. If you see any bubbles then just give the tyre a squeeze and then slosh the sealant around that part of the tyre.

I inflrated the tyres to about 140psi and left them overnight to make sure they were holding pressure. Next day they were fine and so they went on. My assessment of them is completely subjective and will also be colours by the fact that I changed the front brake, lowered my saddle a bit and fitted my Garmin 310xt quick release (so my computer is on the stem, not on my wrist). Tyres, for the journey in, were at 95psi.

As a reminder I was previously on GP4000S' (110psi) and Roval Pave wheels which are apparently used for cyclocross.

First impression; bloody hell. The future is here and it's excellent.

The Fulcrum Racing 1 is a stiff wheel and coupled with an alu Cervelo S1 which currently has an alu seat post I should have been walking like John Wayne when I got off the bike. This morning though was like floating on a mattress suffed with Unicorn hair. I actually found myself looking for bits of rough road.

Grip is also excellent. There are a couple of tight corners on my ride which fult more confident in taking quicker and fighter than I usually do. I also felt much more confident honking away from the lights are a TLGP; the S1 can be a bit twitchy but this morning it felt much more compliant and assured.

Finally, my average speed to work is around 28kph. This morning it was 30.8kph. I do feel though, that this was a result of me having the computer on my stem instead of my wrist so I could see it urging me on all the time. On a side note the quick release for the Garmin 310xt is absolutely excellent.
 
I always go with my left - its easier to get your right foot in and out (as a right hander) but I find in traffic its much safer to be leaning to the left away from the middle of the road so if you do mess up and fall your not in traffic - you also have your stronger leg leading as you pull off...

[DOD]Asprilla;17023246 said:
Snap. It's also easier to remain in the saddle and put your foot on the kerb than get off the saddle and put your foot on the road.
I'd never thought about leaning away from traffic. Although I don't stop near any kerbs on my commute, I just automatically started with my right foot. I wouldn't have said either leg is stronger in terms of pushing off though.
 
I'd never thought about leaning away from traffic. Although I don't stop near any kerbs on my commute, I just automatically started with my right foot. I wouldn't have said either leg is stronger in terms of pushing off though.

I did start off using the right foot to clip out as I found it easier to clip in and out with it but one clip less pedal moment nearly found me sprawled out into a lane and I realised it would probably be better to tip over the other way (plus it soon evened out the ability to clip in between feet :))
 
Asprilla, have you gone with tubs? Or this sealant thing, er, what is it :p?

Tubeless; not clincher, not tubular, but something new and different.

MTBers have been using them for a while with much success. Basically it's like a clicher tyre but with no innertube, similar to the way a car tyre works.

For any given tyre pressure you have a 25% lower rolling resistance (alledgedly) so you can run at a lower pressure. This should mean that:

1. Pinch flats are a thing of the past since there is no innertube
2. Penetration punc* are less common because lower pressure allows the tyre to deform more. The sealant in the tyre (about 20g) will also deal with most punc*.
3. You get a larger road contact area meaning more grip.
4. Lower pressure means a lot more comfort on commuting or training rides.

All of this with no additional effort or loos of speed (over standard clinchers.

This morning's ride in was excellent.

ff80c47b.jpg


If I do get a p* the sealant can't deal with I can glue the tyre, patch it on the inside, or just stick a normal innertube in.
 
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[DOD]Asprilla;17024790 said:
Averaging 15mph including hills and food stops is good going.

I might pop along next year.

Although my BR write up was quite negative, it was all due to personal issues not the ride itself. I definitely recommend it and will probably do it again next year.

It's quite an experience seeing the long line of red lights going off into the distance, and seeing groups of cyclists every few hundred yards along the route.

I'll probably try to sort out some other way of getting back though. As much as i have to congratulate the organisation, it involved too much waiting around and I wouldn't want to hand over my geared bike to them.
 
Does the sealant not increase rolling resistance?

**edit** So using this sealant decreases rolling resistance??

What happens if you get a "puncture" still in the tyre? Do you need to carry a spare tyre and sealant everywhere you go?

**edit**

So if you get a puncture, what you need is an inner tube ;)
 
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Does the sealant not increase rolling resistance?

**edit** So using this sealant decreases rolling resistance??

What happens if you get a "puncture" still in the tyre? Do you need to carry a spare tyre and sealant everywhere you go?

Its more the lack of an innertube removes a source of rolling resistance. The tyres are heavier than good raving clinchers though so your tyre + 20g sealant will probably weigh a smidgen more than a decent racing clincher + latex innertube.

If I get a puncture that the sealant can't cope with I have three options:

1) Glue the hole up on the outside
2) Patch the tyre on the inside with a special patch (no more expensive than park patches)
3) Put a standard innertube in.
 
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