Road Cycling Essentials
- Thread starter Matutu
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Associate
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- 18 Oct 2002
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- 545
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- Just down the road
Nice, is that 105? Looks very tidy
It's Tiagra, so still not too bad. My saddle has to be like that lol, I am 5'7" but have little imp legs
Mine is definitely not right, wont pull any cable even when slack.
Ribble have it back and hopefully tomorrow they will replace it after testing...
Whaaaat?
Is that on ebay? Surely it's worth more than that?
Tell him you went to get it from the shed to send it and it's been stolen and i'll give you that much and you can avoid the fees
It's Tiagra, so still not too bad. My saddle has to be like that lol, I am 5'7" but have little imp legs
I never understood why everyone has this "look" on their bike, as if taller saddle to handle bars means they're more pro
I stick with what feels comfortable and allow me to power and not fall over everytime I have to stop at a junction.The geometry of most road bikes mean that if its the right size for you then you will naturally have some drop from the saddle to bars as it puts your arms and back in the correct/more efficient position. If you have no drop or inverse drop then the frame is probably too big. Much of the speed advantage of a road bike comes from the position, otherwise you may as well just have a hybrid.
That's assuming the bike is of a more aggressive positioning. If the seat and bars are adjusted right, when going into the drop position, you should still be able to power the bike without kneeing yourself and still ride without over stretching your knee down when you ride on the hood.
Many work colleague who got their bike adjusted so it look aesthetically cool like those TdF rider's, but complains of knee ache and lower back pains. Not saying I got it right, but after a few rides of getting use to different riding positions, I've not had such problems (yet). That's got to be an indication to a good fit, no?
Edit:
Thought I should include my bike as ref
Many work colleague who got their bike adjusted so it look aesthetically cool like those TdF rider's, but complains of knee ache and lower back pains. Not saying I got it right, but after a few rides of getting use to different riding positions, I've not had such problems (yet). That's got to be an indication to a good fit, no?
Edit:
Thought I should include my bike as ref
Last edited:
Underboss
- Joined
- 20 Oct 2002
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- Oxfordshire / Bucks
well mine a sportif road bike, the front is higher than other road bikes
![[DOD]Asprilla](/styles/overclockers/avatars/8.png){kind=avatar}
Soldato
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- 10 Nov 2003
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- Surrey, by the river
You probably find you have better weight distribution between the contact points.
The bigger drop will make you more aero dynamic and if you've had your saddle raised you probably have a more efficient leg extension.
If you can comfortably put your feet on the floor whilst sat on the saddle then it's probably too low.
This may help http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/how-to-get-your-seat-height-right-14608/
Soldato
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- 10 Nov 2003
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- Surrey, by the river
See my mighty 170mm front end stacks:
The Cervelo will be very similar too.
I just have long legs.
I can hardly ballerina toe balance when on saddle. I also have no gap at standing height. Like all tutorial online about bike fit, it's an average . Not possibly a one rule fit all.
I am awkwardly shaped, stumpish leg to body length ratio. Thus dropping my handle bar a little straighten my arms better than bringing up seat any higher.
Soldato
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- 10 Nov 2003
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- 14,034
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- Surrey, by the river
I can't touch the floor at all when I'm on the saddle, not even ballerina toe balance. If I want to touch the floor with my foot, as opposed to my calf, thigh, hip, shoulder, arm and head, then I have to come down off the saddle.
Soldato
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- 23 Nov 2004
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- 10,648
I'm basically on the tip toe and pivot to one side when stopping.
Never measured my saddle to bar drop but it won't be too low being a starter road bike.
I test ride quite a few bikes and don't really gel with bikes that have the bars at stupid heights.
I feel pretty comfortable on the drops, forearm horizontal to the ground and still pushing what feels like reasonable power. It's better when hitting a corner at 30mph and the weight is as low as possible.
Never measured my saddle to bar drop but it won't be too low being a starter road bike.
I test ride quite a few bikes and don't really gel with bikes that have the bars at stupid heights.
I feel pretty comfortable on the drops, forearm horizontal to the ground and still pushing what feels like reasonable power. It's better when hitting a corner at 30mph and the weight is as low as possible.
Couple of pump related questions here...
1) Can someone please recommend a cheap (but not rubbish) floor pump? I'm getting tired of pumping up tyres with my mini Topeak!! I tried a screw on Presta adaptor to use with my 12v car compressor, and it was rubbish, the o-ring kept popping out and then got caught in the threads and snapped.
2) How often would you expect to have to top up tyres? Every couple of rides I have to top mine up on both bikes, often with a 10psi or so drop (similar temperatures, bike has been stood idle so tyres are cold). I can't believe I have slow leaks on 4 tyres on two bikes, so I'm guessing this is normal for bikes? (Yes, I'm that noob!).
1) Can someone please recommend a cheap (but not rubbish) floor pump? I'm getting tired of pumping up tyres with my mini Topeak!! I tried a screw on Presta adaptor to use with my 12v car compressor, and it was rubbish, the o-ring kept popping out and then got caught in the threads and snapped.
2) How often would you expect to have to top up tyres? Every couple of rides I have to top mine up on both bikes, often with a 10psi or so drop (similar temperatures, bike has been stood idle so tyres are cold). I can't believe I have slow leaks on 4 tyres on two bikes, so I'm guessing this is normal for bikes? (Yes, I'm that noob!).
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