Road Cycling Essentials

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Just found an interesting article on cervelo website about the benefits of lightweight bikes vs aero bikes. Seems like quite a nice balanced article and obviously cervelo make both a lightweight frame and an aero frame so they have no reason to skew the results. (linky)

Their conclusion is that for a pro rider who can hold around 400watts, an aero bike is faster on anything up to an 8% climb. For an average rider doing about 250watts, anything up to 5% is faster with an aero frame.
In their simulations, the aero bike was faster on the route of the 2007 etape du tour (which followed the route of the hilliest stage that year).

There was an article in Cyclist a few months back explaining how Brad Wiggins would have been quicker up mountain stages on a recumbent.
 
Yeah they have some really interesting articles :)

Which sort of brings me to my current first world problem. Got my timer and accommodation booked for the Fred Whitton four seasons challenge and can't decide between taking C24's or C50's?

At first the C24's look like the obvious choice but the C50's are only around 350g heavier and complete bike is still under 7kg w/ the aero wheels on.

:confused:

Looks a really interesting way of attempting the completely masochistic route that the FW uses. I might aim for that some time too. If it was me I would be taking the c24s. 350g less, is significant amount of rotational mass to lose and those climbs will really sap your legs. Its such a punishing route that I am not sure you will reap any aero benefit of your 50mm rims. Can't say I am anything like an expert but thats what I would be doing. I know when I did le Terrier earlier this year I was glad I had my 1500g wheelset vs my 2000g Fulcrum 5s.
 
People will probably tell you to get some road SPD-SLs in whatever price you can afford, BUT...

Exustar E-PR100PP are just £20 with cleats and they weigh 127grams each that is lighter than £200 dura-ace pedals, I use them on both my bikes, my commuter has done 5000km miles through rain and shine and they work as well as they ever did.

They're Look keo cleats (cost £7 for new ones), not shimano, they're an absolute BARGAIN!

A mate at work (very keen cyclist) suggested getting mountainbike shoes. I tend to walk at a little ten-to-two so he said that those shoes would be more suited to my foot alignment (I can't cycle with my feet perfectly straight). He also recommended then adjusting the cleats to give me an extra 9 degrees if I needed to. That sound like good advice?

Plus they'd be easier to walk in etc.
 
Yeah they have some really interesting articles :)

Which sort of brings me to my current first world problem. Got my timer and accommodation booked for the Fred Whitton four seasons challenge and can't decide between taking C24's or C50's?

At first the C24's look like the obvious choice but the C50's are only around 350g heavier and complete bike is still under 7kg w/ the aero wheels on.

:confused:

C24s all the way, with that much climbing you want to be saving weight where it most matters.
 
Yeah they have some really interesting articles :)

Which sort of brings me to my current first world problem. Got my timer and accommodation booked for the Fred Whitton four seasons challenge and can't decide between taking C24's or C50's?

At first the C24's look like the obvious choice but the C50's are only around 350g heavier and complete bike is still under 7kg w/ the aero wheels on.

:confused:

It depends what your goal is for the ride:
If your comfortable with the distance and your goal is to set the best time that you can round the course, go for the C50s.
If you think it will be a challenging ride and your goal is just to complete the distance, go for the C24s.

[DOD]Asprilla;24726364 said:
There was an article in Cyclist a few months back explaining how Brad Wiggins would have been quicker up mountain stages on a recumbent.
Yep, recumbents are significantly more aero than standard road bikes (even time trial bikes are nowhere near as good). Not UCI legal though ;)
 
A mate at work (very keen cyclist) suggested getting mountainbike shoes. I tend to walk at a little ten-to-two so he said that those shoes would be more suited to my foot alignment (I can't cycle with my feet perfectly straight). He also recommended then adjusting the cleats to give me an extra 9 degrees if I needed to. That sound like good advice?

Plus they'd be easier to walk in etc.
If you actually need to walk in the shoes any distance then get MTB otherwise get road pedals, you have a bigger platform so are generally more comfortable.

You can get just as much float in road cleats, for example the pedels I suggested come with cleats that will give you 9.5 degrees of float, and you can obviously bolt the cleats at a certain angle to give yourself even more movement in a certain direction.
 
Looks a really interesting way of attempting the completely masochistic route that the FW uses. I might aim for that some time too.

Now my timers here I'm really starting to look forward to it! :D

C24s all the way, with that much climbing you want to be saving weight where it most matters.

I hear you, but the C50's are still lighter than plenty of low profile rims and my gearing 34-28 should get me up anything.

It depends what your goal is for the ride:
If your comfortable with the distance and your goal is to set the best time that you can round the course, go for the C50s.

I knew I could rely on you to plant a seed lol. There's always the downhills and maybe a couple of sections I could hold some speed :eek:

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Yeah they have some really interesting articles :)

Which sort of brings me to my current first world problem. Got my d accommodation booked for the Fred Whitton four seasons challenge and can't decide between taking C24's or C50's?

At first the C24's look like the obvious choice but the C50's are only around 350g heavier and complete bike is still under 7kg w/ the aero wheels on.

:confused:

Do either have carbon brake surface? There's no way I'd want to descend at speed down hard knott / wyrnose / honister on anything other than aluminium braking surface!

Good luck by the way, I usually hang around the bottom of cold fell wishing I was fit enough to take part!
 
Yeah, I can appreciate too that having a lot of movement in pedals isn't exactly great to prevent injuries, but my foot walking angle probably necessitates it.

You dont need to get MTB style pedals that give more movement just because your feet are not straight. Nobody has perfectly straight feet, pedals + cleats are designed with this in mind.

You need to work out the natural angles of your feet. In bare feet (or socks) jump up and down or jog on the spot for a little while. Then stop and let your feet come to a rest naturally. Measure the angles of your feet at this point (or get somebody to do it for you whilst you are standing there).

When you know the angles of each foot (which are likely to be different). You can bolt the cleats to the shoe at that angle. There is loads of range for positioning the cleat on a road shoe.
 
Do either have carbon brake surface? There's no way I'd want to descend at speed down hard knott / wyrnose / honister on anything other than aluminium braking surface!

That's a good point actually (although i think both wheelsets have alloy braking surfaces?).
I remember when i did it there were loads of people walking up hardknott (me included), which isnt a surprise but what i didnt expect was people walking back down the other side again because it was so steep.
 
this is it.. i need a tougher front wheel! this shimano needs spokes tightening every week.. driving me nuts! :) not sure if buying a set is the way to go but any good deals around for a front wheel? - black 28 spokes at least?
 
this is it.. i need a tougher front wheel! this shimano needs spokes tightening every week.. driving me nuts! :) not sure if buying a set is the way to go but any good deals around for a front wheel? - black 28 spokes at least?

Mavic Open Pro on Shimano hubs (Tiagra or 105, 32 spoke) seems to be the default bulletproof combo.
 
Ok, so I am looking on Wiggle for some clip in pedals for my first road bike and am getting a bit (a lot) lost. There are some on there for £135 and some for £22, what makes the expensive ones quite so good?!?

Anyone got any thoughts on the following stuff too:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-hexus-ii-16-function-multi-tool/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/castelli-velocissimo-due-bibshort/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/castelli-free-short-sleeve-jersey/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-aero-wedge-buckle-medium-saddle-bag/

Any help would be greatly appreciated for a newbie.



well, let me say this, as people are suggesting cleats etc

if you have a road bike and is going to use it just on road, I don't know if your commuting or not but do not get mountain bike pedals, they are mountain bike pedals for a reason, if you get SPD-SL shoes and cleats and pedals, they are a lot "wider" so you can get more leverage and power transfer down otherwise your wasting a bit of energy as less is in contact
 
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