I was looking at building a new winter bike a while back and looked at this frame. Not sure the clearance with guards is enough - i believe it's similar in that regard to the Ribble winter frame. I wanted the option of running up to 28mm with guards on and the only frame i found that fit the bill was a Kinesis TK2. Shelved the idea in the end for financial reasons but it's worth thinking about.
Road Cycling Essentials
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I was looking at building a new winter bike a while back and looked at this frame. Not sure the clearance with guards is enough - i believe it's similar in that regard to the Ribble winter frame. I wanted the option of running up to 28mm with guards on and the only frame i found that fit the bill was a Kinesis TK2. Shelved the idea in the end for financial reasons but it's worth thinking about.
My old winter bike was a 2009 Trek 1.2 with 9 speed Sora, the Dolan has been built with mostly 10sp 105 and being honest, there's not much difference.
Cheap enough upgrade for me though, frame was 2nd hand, reused bars, seatpost etc so I only needed to buy the drivetrain components. I've never tried 28mm tyres, or even 25. Been using 23mm Pro4 Endurance.
I need some help:
Got a frame from eBay to build into a winter bike but it hasn't got a derailleur hanger. I can't find a replacement or even anything that looks similar so i think I'm going to have to make my own hanger.
Does anybody know (or can find on Google) if a hanger has a standard distance from centre of able to centre of derailleur bolt or if it's different between frames.
Got a frame from eBay to build into a winter bike but it hasn't got a derailleur hanger. I can't find a replacement or even anything that looks similar so i think I'm going to have to make my own hanger.
Does anybody know (or can find on Google) if a hanger has a standard distance from centre of able to centre of derailleur bolt or if it's different between frames.
Underboss
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Soldato
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My instinct is it's not a standard distance (within reason) as the B screw compensates for that. I think?
My entirely unqualified gut feeling is the same... So long as there is sufficient room for the chain to pass from the cassette to the jockey wheels without fouling on the cage, or derailleur body if that's even possible, then it should work fine. The important motion of the derailleur is at right angles to the distance you're measuring, so it shouldn't be affected by a couple of mm either way. Obviously if you were going to put it miles away then the chain would pull the derailleur out of position, but over a small difference I doubt it matters.
Sun is out here! Still freezing cold though... Winds have died down too!
It's now snowing sideways here with major stormy winds...
My EQ2.5 has underarm vents, they're a double zipper so you can even control where the hole is if you don't go fully open, the Commuter is/was single zipper so small hole was always by the torso. The L EQ2.5 isn't as tight as the L Commuter I have, the rear sticky strip isn't as long or as tight either meaning I am getting some ride up (more than the Commuter). This and the tightness might be from the change in material as it's much more 'fabric' feeling than 'coat' feel of the Commuter. I actually think it hasn't got as much wind protection as the Commuter (I seem to cool in it faster/longer to warm up). I don't think the fabric of the EQ will be as waterproof as the Commuter but I've not had any rain yet!
Commute in this morning was windy and cold (2 degrees with -2 wind chill according to phone) so attempted to use it as a semi-recovery ride, although the headwind was so strong so struggled to keep my HR low (mostly Z4). Last nights gusty commute was a better recovery as could keep my HR lower (Z3).
Anyone got any 'recovery ride' tips? Do I need to drop my cadence more or keep 80/90 cadence with a few lower gears to spin?
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I laced these up yesterday night. They are the 40/32 spoke 26 x 1-3/8" rims off my 1938 BSA with 1950's Resilion double-sided fixed/free hubs. They are replacing the Dynohub and Sturmey Archer that found their way onto the bike at some point in the 50's and are closer to what the bike would have had originally.
I think recovery is more Zones 1-2. My old trainer used to constantly say to me, "keep out of Zone 3!" It takes real discipline, I found it so boring going so slow.
Generally, you don't need to drop your cadence, just your gears/speed.
Good mag turbo with loads of extras - reads like inbuilt digital speed & cadence? for ~£150 from Decathlon - http://www.decathlon.co.uk/qubo-dig...tm_campaign=roadcc_shopping&utm_source=roadcc
I'd not seen this Elite model before, but I'd certainly look at the Elite range if I was after a starting/cheap-but-good turbo.
I'd not seen this Elite model before, but I'd certainly look at the Elite range if I was after a starting/cheap-but-good turbo.
Z1 is <112 and Z2 is 112-148 for me, I only tend to be in those zones when stopped at traffic lights or filtering through traffic lol! Defo something for me to work on with TR!
I originally thought to increase my 'fitness' for endurance was to push myself harder and longer but I realise now that is probably wrong and I need to somehow increase my performance in lower HR zones?
Will I get that from distance/sweet-spot training or do I need to do longer workouts in these lower zones so I'm more efficient (and my body gets used to working in them)?
Training guru needed!
Z1 is <112 and Z2 is 112-148 for me, I only tend to be in those zones when stopped at traffic lights or filtering through traffic lol! Defo something for me to work on with TR!
I originally thought to increase my 'fitness' for endurance was to push myself harder and longer but I realise now that is probably wrong and I need to somehow increase my performance in lower HR zones?
Will I get that from distance/sweet-spot training or do I need to do longer workouts in these lower zones so I'm more efficient (and my body gets used to working in them)?
Training guru needed!
You've got it, eventually you realise, to become faster you need to become slower
When I started on my training programme, I couldn't stay out of Z3, no matter what I did. That was out on the road. Once I got my turbo, it was much easier, but very tedious. As I say, it takes serious discipline.
Now I can ride on the road in Zone 2, but only if it's flat, and I'm not in busy traffic.
You need to do a test though to find out your LTHR. Otherwise, your zones could be wrong.
Recovery ride for me would be about 130hr as consistently as possible, but tbh do you need a recovery ride, I would only ever consider the need for one after I've done a longer TT(25 miles) or a big run at a hard pace(75 miles+) For the amateur yes get your rest in, but if you have to ride every day just take it easy on your commutes. As janp says though until you actually know your HR zones properly there is no way to say you're definitely in this zone or that zone.
Does anyone else find it incredibly hard, not to spend money each month on bike stuff?
I said my new years resolution was to be more disciplined on buying cycling bits because I seem to buy so much stuff, unfortunately my wiggle wishlist has only grown
Think late last year i was spending something like 100 a month.
On the other hand, I think if I enjoy it so much then its worth spending my 'spare' cash on it. hhmmm
I said my new years resolution was to be more disciplined on buying cycling bits because I seem to buy so much stuff, unfortunately my wiggle wishlist has only grown
Think late last year i was spending something like 100 a month.
On the other hand, I think if I enjoy it so much then its worth spending my 'spare' cash on it. hhmmm
Does anyone else find it incredibly hard, not to spend money each month on bike stuff?
I said my new years resolution was to be more disciplined on buying cycling bits because I seem to buy so much stuff, unfortunately my wiggle wishlist has only grown
Think late last year i was spending something like 100 a month.
On the other hand, I think if I enjoy it so much then its worth spending my 'spare' cash on it. hhmmm
meh I save £170+/month by commuting on bike instead of tube + train
Man of Honour
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It wasn't too bad actually - at least on the main roads. Then when I got to my own street the shock of seeing what it's like when you don't have regular cars/gritting was quite...er..shocking
I had to get off the bike before I felt safe enough to come off the road.I like 25mm tyres but I can't say I've enjoyed my experiences with 28mm. That said, they were Gatorskins so..y'know... to be expected.
It's now snowing sideways here with major stormy winds...
My EQ2.5 has underarm vents, they're a double zipper so you can even control where the hole is if you don't go fully open, the Commuter is/was single zipper so small hole was always by the torso. The L EQ2.5 isn't as tight as the L Commuter I have, the rear sticky strip isn't as long or as tight either meaning I am getting some ride up (more than the Commuter). This and the tightness might be from the change in material as it's much more 'fabric' feeling than 'coat' feel of the Commuter. I actually think it hasn't got as much wind protection as the Commuter (I seem to cool in it faster/longer to warm up). I don't think the fabric of the EQ will be as waterproof as the Commuter but I've not had any rain yet!
Anyone got any 'recovery ride' tips? Do I need to drop my cadence more or keep 80/90 cadence with a few lower gears to spin?
Bit of harsh snow for part of my lunch ride but mostly nice. It's quite sunny between snow/hail/rain storms
Interesting comments /re the EQ2.5, thanks.
Recovery rides... Just go painfully slow
I generally keep cadence high but in an easy gear and try to not go above 16mph if I'm *really* in recovery mode.I thought you had a Road Machine? Or have I made that up.
I tend to agree that recovery rides are really only needed for longer/harder efforts. It's rare that I ever have one, even after doing fairly long sweet spot turbo sessions.
Soldato
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It wasn't too bad actually - at least on the main roads. Then when I got to my own street the shock of seeing what it's like when you don't have regular cars/gritting was quite...er..shocking
Spotted!!!!
Does anyone else find it incredibly hard, not to spend money each month on bike stuff?
I said my new years resolution was to be more disciplined on buying cycling bits because I seem to buy so much stuff, unfortunately my wiggle wishlist has only grown
Think late last year i was spending something like 100 a month.
On the other hand, I think if I enjoy it so much then its worth spending my 'spare' cash on it. hhmmm
I'm the same... Cycling has to be a hobby to warrant the expense many of put into it. I started commuting on a cheap bike in whatever clothes I had, not anymore!
Considering I've not bought a bike and don't buy expensive clothes...
Although I'm probably saving £30/40 per week in fuel...
You've got it, eventually you realise, to become faster you need to become slower
When I started on my training programme, I couldn't stay out of Z3, no matter what I did. That was out on the road. Once I got my turbo, it was much easier, but very tedious. As I say, it takes serious discipline.
Now I can ride on the road in Zone 2, but only if it's flat, and I'm not in busy traffic.
You need to do a test though to find out your LTHR. Otherwise, your zones could be wrong.
No idea what the LTHR is, but I'm hoping once I get into TR I'll understand much more!
My thresholds, my zones etc etc... To be honest I only really started looking at my HR/zones recently, when on the road, as before the Garmin I didn't have my mobile mounted on my bars - I cycled by 'feel' the whole time.I think this is it, until now I was pushing myself every commute (2x20 mins, 4 days a week) and then at least an hour on the turbo (usually more) every weekend, usually doing intervals (SF). With only 1 rest day (in the week).
I'm hoping for more structure with TR even though it might mean more riding, I'll have to Z2/3 several of my commute days.
Interesting comments /re the EQ2.5, thanks.
Recovery rides... Just go painfully slow
I thought you had a Road Machine? Or have I made that up.
I tend to agree that recovery rides are really only needed for longer/harder efforts. It's rare that I ever have one, even after doing fairly long sweet spot turbo sessions.
Yeah I'm guessing more 'low effort' rides is what I'm heading towards as it will give me more improvement in my 'high effort' rides. My stop/start traffic commuting makes me -wrongly- feel like when moving I need to be pushing myself.
I've got a RMII, was just linking for others as it looked a good buy!
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No idea what the LTHR is, but I'm hoping once I get into TR I'll understand much more!
LTHR - Lactate Threshold Heart Rate, it's your heart rate when lactic acid starts to accumulate in the blood stream. Basically, it's the maximum heart rate you can sustain over 30 minutes. Mine is 166 bpm, although I need to sure this up on a turbo. If you Google it, you should find some examples of how to test. Generally, you ride as hard as you can for 30mins, and then take the average HR for the last 20mins.
Like you I hammer the commutes at threshold. I started cycling to combat depression, and I find getting my heart rate up high really helps. However, towards the end of last summer I got heavily fatigued, and eventually had ligament trouble. What I'm trying to say is, you can't go at 100% the whole time.
Z1 is <112 and Z2 is 112-148 for me, I only tend to be in those zones when stopped at traffic lights or filtering through traffic lol! Defo something for me to work on with TR!
I originally thought to increase my 'fitness' for endurance was to push myself harder and longer but I realise now that is probably wrong and I need to somehow increase my performance in lower HR zones?
Will I get that from distance/sweet-spot training or do I need to do longer workouts in these lower zones so I'm more efficient (and my body gets used to working in them)?
Training guru needed!
You've got it, eventually you realise, to become faster you need to become slower
When I started on my training programme, I couldn't stay out of Z3, no matter what I did. That was out on the road. Once I got my turbo, it was much easier, but very tedious. As I say, it takes serious discipline.
Now I can ride on the road in Zone 2, but only if it's flat, and I'm not in busy traffic.
You need to do a test though to find out your LTHR. Otherwise, your zones could be wrong.
I know a lot of what the experts say about training zones etc but like some of you I find riding in what an app calculates as Z2 incredibly difficult and frustrating. Lets face it - we all have different physiology and levels of fitness. Personally I am in Zone 2 pretty much as soon as I swing a leg over the top tube! Your zones also move with fitness. In the summer I could ride 17mph pretty much sub 145bpm over 30 or so miles. At present I'd be under 15mph at that intensity. I dont' have very big lung capacity so I reckon that will always limit me a bit and account for a slightly higher HR.
If you are training a lot vs just riding your bike then I can see the benefit of the odd session trundling along at 135bpm or whatever Z2 is but I can't ride enough for it to be a necessity. Riding slow is also boring. It might give better endurance but so does riding hard for shorter periods. Training is about stressing your body and adaptation. I say do what you enjoy unless you are into racing or TT'ing in which case a more scientific approach will help.
I certainly have a lot of gains to make just by training more often and with a little more intensity variation. If you have the time and discipline to ride in z2 then fair enough but I don't see me doing it much
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