Road Cycling Essentials

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platypus said:
Do they only unclip moving the heel outwards?
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Yeah, same method as, I think, the SPDs and SPD-SLs. I had no problem unclipping coming from years of using SPDs on my MTB :)

My problem was before I could clip in with the dual sided SPDs now I need to rotate the pedal the be the correct way up then clip in. This is because the spring mechanism is at the back of the pedal and is heavy so it always spins the pedal round to the vertical when unclipped.
 
Lakeland Loop yesterday in glorious sunshine. 69 miles and 7100ft of climbing including Hardknott which I made it up without walking this year! Bit annoying getting a puncture on the decent due to overheating rims - cost me 20 mins as my CO2 inflator didn't work. Still finished well in the top half though, so quite pleased with that as an early season opener. Without the puncture I'd have been in the top 25%.

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/78369840
 
Ideally you should the larger half of the rear cassette with the small front sprocket and the smaller half of the rear cassette with the big sprocket, less strain on the chain then.
 
Its still got another 2 sprockets and its an 11-25 cassette on standard 53/39. Almost cross chaining but not quite.
 
As promised, here is the new addition to my family! :)

2011 Cannondale Supersix Ultegra

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Standard Build:

Mavic Askium wheels & Schwalbe Lugano tyres
Ultegra 6700 GS
FSA SL-K Light Chainset
Fizik Arione Saddle
Speedplay Zero Pedals

Future Plans:

Bike fit booked with the 'The Bike Whisperer' in Ealing at the start of May.

Stem, seat post and bars will all be getting changed for FSA SL-K Light parts. Tyres will be getting changed to either Continental GP4000S or Schwalbe Ultremo. I'll change the wheels as soon as I can afford to - not sure what for yet though.

I went out on it last night for a quick hour. First impressions are that it's stiffer than a stiff thing on a stiff day, handling is super sharp and zero wasted energy on climbs. The wheels do not do the frame justice, and neither do I ;)

Apologies for the poor quality images - they are from my mobile.
 
^ Nice bike.

Poxy roadworks. Relaying the road on my commute and I've come home with a puncture and a badly shredded tyre. There are 7 puncture holes in the tyre :/
 
42-16 on my ss atm
which one should I swap out.
46-16? 42-12? about the same speed?
which one would be cheaper/easier etc.
Thinking of getting sugino if I swap the bigger chainring.
 
Changing the back end is a lot cheaper and easier than changing the front. If you want to compare gearing then google 'Rabbit fixed gear' for an excellent tool.

42-16 is 69gi, 46-16 is 75.6gi and 42-12 is 92gi; that's a big jump from 42-16 to 42-12...
 
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[DOD]Asprilla;18884074 said:
Be interested to see what you think of the 2011 Ultegra and how you think the FSA crankset compares.

Very pretty indeed.
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My wife bought me a Ribble Winter Trainer a few months ago that has full 2011 105. Ultegra is lighter for sure, but in terms of actual use, I'll be honest, there is no difference. The STI levers, especially the inner one, feel slightly more robust, but that's really looking hard.

2011 105 really is very good value. Weight aside (there's probably 200 grams or so between the two GS), I can't see how Shimano can justify the price difference.

The FSA chainset is very good. It's obviously beautiful to look at, but it works well and is stiff. I had read that some testers had felt flex, but that's nonsense in my experience. I am 14.5 stone and fancy myself as a Geordie Mark Cavendish - no flex at all during the couple of 100% efforts on Sunday. I was ******' rapid though! ;)
 
[DOD]Asprilla;18883387 said:
Changing the back end is a lot cheaper and easier than changing the front. If you want to compare gearing then google 'Rabbit fixed gear' for an excellent tool.

42-16 is 69gi, 46-16 is 75.6gi and 42-12 is 92gi; that's a big jump from 42-16 to 42-12...
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Hm that's a big jump indeed ill take a look at 14 or 13 really don't wanna spend a lot. Any recommended brands for rear cog?
 
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