Road Cycling Essentials

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Jonny69 said:
I've been driving around the roads on the Hell on the Ashdown and the Kentish Killer this weekend. Lots of bikers out practicing. They are some SERIOUS hills in places :D


I wouldn't strip it with a grinder. You'll tear into the metal woo much and it'll make a mess of it. The best way is Nitromores and a wire brush; but I'll warn you, it's a horrible job. For frame refinishing, I know Bob Jackson's refinish frames. Thre's also a place called (I think) Argos up North somewhere that also do frames. A lot of folkies on RB don't like powdercoating frames. Not entirely sure why, but it's probably because the finish isn't as good as getting it sprayed and it's difficult to touch it up. You can get all the decal sets. I think your best bet would be to sign up over on Retro Bike. I'll post your question up for you and see what it brings back...

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1376306
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Argos is in Bristol. top bunch of guys, but very pricey
 
George Hincapie said:
I'm in the same boat. I'm dropping weight for the Kent Killer at the moment, almost 4KG lost in 2 weeks so far. Just remember that when you're riding, you must eat enough calories to fuel the ride. The fact you're eating to a deficit should in no way interfere with that.
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While I can comprehend the logic behind that notion, I have the unfortunate inability to deal with it psychologically. I've been hitting the 1500 calorie per day mark consistently since the start of the year, dropping about 4kg in that time. While I know that cycling for two hours will burn a good 1000 calories, I still keep telling myself that I should not eat more.

I'm convinced that the majority of my problem is simply a lack of conditioning. After today's ride I noticed that getting down on the drops has made my shoulders stiff, something that wasn't a problem 6 months ago before I stopped riding regularly. What I need to focus on now is maintaining my endurance, rather than doing this unhelpful yo-yoing from being "on" and "off".

I'll take on board what you said about pre, during and post food and try to apply it in the coming weeks. I know it takes practice and fine tuning, I'm just keen to try to avoid feeling like utter hell after what is really not a huge amount of time in the saddle. Thanks for the well reasoned advice though, I appreciate you taking the time :)

George Hincapie said:
Finally, remember, you haven't got the juice in the tank to ride like you stole something! The plan here must be long, steady rides. Stick to 16 MPH and just keep going :)
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Averaging 16mph seems like a distant dream at the moment, so thanks for making me feel small and weak ;)
 
What's the real difference between road and MTB clipless pedals? Visually the cleat seems to be a front and middle attachment, but I've been using "MTB" ones (Shimanon M520s) for ages. Either going to replace the M520s or look at others - maybe Eggbeaters.
 
George Hincapie said:
Argh! I've downloaded the race to watch later :(
Can you please use spoiler tags next time?
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Sorry, i will do!

One More Solo said:
Maybe we should create a Pro Cycling thread for 2012?
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Good idea. I'll make a seperate thread so that i dont ruin this one with more spoilers.


Russinating said:
What's the real difference between road and MTB clipless pedals? Visually the cleat seems to be a front and middle attachment, but I've been using "MTB" ones (Shimanon M520s) for ages. Either going to replace the M520s or look at others - maybe Eggbeaters.
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MTB cleats are smaller and have a bigger release angle (you have to turn your ankle further before it pops out) but are usually easier to get out of.
The smaller mtb cleats which are usually recessed into the sole of the shoe makes it easier to walk about.
Bigger road cleats are harder to walk in but have a bigger contact patch and can handle more power without popping off.
 
Saundie said:
While I can comprehend the logic behind that notion, I have the unfortunate inability to deal with it psychologically. I've been hitting the 1500 calorie per day mark consistently since the start of the year, dropping about 4kg in that time. While I know that cycling for two hours will burn a good 1000 calories, I still keep telling myself that I should not eat more.
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I think if you could just try the rough plan I suggested for one decent endurance ride, you'll at least be able to compare how each approach affects your body.

I'm convinced that the majority of my problem is simply a lack of conditioning. After today's ride I noticed that getting down on the drops has made my shoulders stiff, something that wasn't a problem 6 months ago before I stopped riding regularly. What I need to focus on now is maintaining my endurance, rather than doing this unhelpful yo-yoing from being "on" and "off".
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You can't stop life unfortunately. I have three children, with another on the way in a few months so there's always potential for my plans to go awry. If you miss a ride, don't give up or get disheartened, just try to go the next day. Every time you ride you'll get better - just remember that.

Your speed isn't as important as distance at the moment, so focus on a pace you can sustain, ignore anyone overtaking you and stick to the plan.

Good luck :)
 
George Hincapie said:
I am so sorry. I should have phrased that completely differently
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Don't worry, I wasn't really offended - the truth is, I am weak at the moment, hence me pushing myself to improve. In the summer I was averaging a little over 15mph on a heavier bike. I know it's just a matter of perseverance, my main concern is that I make this as efficient as possible, for the reason you give in your next post.

George Hincapie said:
Have you got a heart rate monitor? If so, try sticking to about 145 BPM. You should be able to tick over at that all day.
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Sadly not, my Garmin is the Edge 605. I decided at the time that I just wanted it for routing and not to help me get fitter. I haven't been able to figure out if it's possible to add a HRM to it yet.

George Hincapie said:
I think if you could just try the rough plan I suggested for one decent endurance ride, you'll at least be able to compare how each approach affects your body.
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I'll give it a shot. Today I only had a couple of those MyProtein energy gels and I felt fine during the ride, it was only about an hour afterwards that I felt utterly ruined.

InsomniaCalls said:
Pfft. Everyone knows that it's mandatory to immediately get on the wheel of anyone who dares to overtake you and make them take the wind for as long as you can! :p
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I don't trust anybody enough to get that close to them - I give other cyclists an even wider berth than I give other road users. I don't seem to get overtaken a huge amount, but then I don't tend to frequent the roads that the cycling clubs use.
 
Russinating said:
What's the real difference between road and MTB clipless pedals? Visually the cleat seems to be a front and middle attachment, but I've been using "MTB" ones (Shimanon M520s) for ages. Either going to replace the M520s or look at others - maybe Eggbeaters.
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road pedals offer better foot support for long periods in the saddle. it's easy to get "hot spots" with the relatively small contact patch on an MTB spd

road systems are generally quite a lot lighter too.
 
Saundie said:
I'll give it a shot. Today I only had a couple of those MyProtein energy gels and I felt fine during the ride, it was only about an hour afterwards that I felt utterly ruined.
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Remember that you need to keep fuelling yourself after you finish cycling. Your muscles need food (particularly protein) to recover. You can get special recovery drinks or bars but really anything with a bit of meat in it will be good for you. Sausages in a roll or bacon + eggs is my fav.
IMO, you'll be faster if you eat a good recovery meal than if you skip it to lose a little weight.
 
Russinating said:
Looked like the opposite of this to me, at least to a price point. The Eggbeaters for example are 285g for £40.
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i'm comparing to shimano here. my keos are about 100g lighter than my M520s

road cleats will wear a lot faster if walked on though - this could be of importance. i use cleat covers with my keos.
 
Shimano road cleats are much more durable than keos, and the rubber pads give more grip when walking too.
Not much (if any) difference when actually cycling tho.
 
That's the other thing, I'd like some shoes I can also walk in (currently have exposed cleats which is a bugger). Do I need 'special' shoes or pedals/cleats for that, or both?
 
bastic said:
me again...
for L frame(55cm) what stem I should go for ? bar handles are 44cm.
Ive read that 12cm is 'normal' ?
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It depends how flexible you are. I'd go for a 100cm stem to start with, if you need to go further out in future, then they are cheap enough to buy. Start comfortably, then find your limits.

When you've bought it, go to your local bike store and pay for a proper fit (around £50-£100). They should, if they are decent, swap your stem out for free, or for a very small charge.
 
Looking for some opinions on saddles.
Got a Prologo Nago Evo X10 saddle that came on the mtb and it's just right for me.
Do people reckon i could get a road version ie. the Nago Evo or Nago Evo plus and it would fit me similarly?
Unfortunately my local bike shop dont stock prologo :(
 
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