Road Cycling

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A few posts up there's some discussion about the 1000. I personally I have an 810 which is fine but if I was buying a new device I'd probably go non-Garmin personally. I've heard mixed things about the 1000 also.
 
Get some more rest and do a bit of foam rolling on your quads, ITB and glutes. Maybe check to see if your saddle has slipped too.

Which part of your knee is painful? Front/back? Below kneedcap? Etc.

side of knee cap? I used to get similar pain of/when my saddle was off line! but I haven't touched my bike hence the randomness.. I'll take a look at the cleats and saddle today.. wonder if either have moved! cleat would not surprise me.. had done over 6k miles on these shoes so maybe they're too worn.

ouch, sorry to hear that, if it was your leg, I would suggest putting ice on it for 15 mins, then off for an hour then back on for another 15 mins, should ease, but knee, not sure

I would check your shoes, redo your cleats (take them off, clean shoes and cleats, back on), check your saddle bolts (height as well as forward and back)

yeah it's one of those things.. ! had lots of injuries to this knee from back in the day when I used to BMX.. but I haven't had anything for a good while :o

on a different note.. here's me nearly getting killed yesterday!


:/
 
What are the odds of this lasting the 20 mile ride home?

ovgVOqg.jpg

Cant decide if it's the tyre or the tube at fault but both are going in the bin.
 
All being well the Mrs has today taken my old Carrera frame to a local bike shop to get the headset cups popped out and the stuck bottom bracket removed. Once that's done I can clean it up and send it for powdercoating. I'm thinking I'll go for red - red bikes are faster, after all. I've picked up a Claris groupset in various lots on ebay, so I can stick all that lot on in due course. It should give it a new lease of life and keep it chugging on as my winter/bad weather bike.
 
What are the odds of this lasting the 20 mile ride home?

wonkywheel.jpg

Cant decide if it's the tyre or the tube at fault but both are going in the bin.

Are you sure it's not the rim? If not, are you sure the tyre is properly seated on a properly seated tube?

Pics from the sides needed.
 
A few posts up there's some discussion about the 1000. I personally I have an 810 which is fine but if I was buying a new device I'd probably go non-Garmin personally. I've heard mixed things about the 1000 also.

Ah yes, thanks - what's a non-garmin alternative (that i can get *free* OS maps onto) :) It'd be a bonus if it has an "I'm tired/lost, please get me home" function.
 
Send the video to the police.

I've done it this time... no one has ever done something as stupid as the above! it was just next level of stupidity.. I could feel his mirror touch me elbow! if I didn't move to the left(not sure why I did but hey thank balls I did) he would've wiped me off.

So a lot of people would recommend the 510 over the 810?

both are good, but if you want to use gpx files and have full navigation then 810 is a better tool for the job! IMO as a cyclist I like exploring unknown.. so having routes/nav is what I need :)
 
Are you sure it's not the rim? If not, are you sure the tyre is properly seated on a properly seated tube?

Pics from the sides needed.

M4EAJZw.jpg

Seated perfectly fine. The tyre seems to kink to one side and then follow that deviation. Weird. I have a spare at home, just got a 20 mile ride to get to it haha.
 
I like my Edge 800. IIRC, turn-by-turn has worked on all bar one ride for me (that ride it showed the route but refused to give the directions at junctions.

I'd go for a unit with graphical mapping as I've used the maps to bail me out when I've stitched myself up on a ride (I've tried to send myself down a dirt track or footpath).

Is there much alternative to an Edge 8xx or 1000 though if you want mapping? Bryton Ride 50/60?
 
ive re adjusted the bike

I have raised the handle bars up by putting all the spaces back underneath the stem, when I tightened the bolt that goes straight down the middle of the fork I think I may have over tightened as it heard it go "crack" so to speak, would the frame etc. still be ok? I un did them and re-tightened but not as much

going to order a torque wrench now as im worried about my carbon bike
 
To be honest when I got my stand it was one of those 'what do I need for christmas' kinda things, but now I have it it's probably one of my most used 'tools'! Really surprising how easy it makes nearly every bike related job!

Good ride to ease yourself back in and keep up with the HRM, your HR seems similar to mine - all over the place but it recovers quickly from the hard efforts which is a good sign of health/fitness. You'll have to do a lot of the 'work' yourself when using HR as a training aid, while you're getting some riding fitness back and learning about your HR use it to judge the efforts you're putting in. You'll soon be able to figure out what HR is sustainable when pushing hard, when climbing, when standing and what type of HR you can ride sweetspot at.

I mostly use my HR as a guide to what I'm trying to achieve, I'll mostly ride by 'feel' when pacing myself with a quick glace at HR to confirm I'm around 145-155bpm which I know I can sustain. If I'm on a long early climb I'll usually use HR to make sure I've 'backed off' enough (<160bpm).

Cheers for the reply. I need to get out more to get my previous level of fitness back up although when i finished the ride i still averaged 15mph which is at the level i was at before (fastest average about 15.5mph). So think its just a matter of getting the power back in the legs to last longer runs at the same speed. I probably put on half a stone in the past few weeks so needing to shed that to get closer to the top end of my recommended weight for my height. I'll be out golfing tonight and cycling again tomorrow, weather permitting! Supposed to get a bit windier up here again.
 
ive re adjusted the bike

I have raised the handle bars up by putting all the spaces back underneath the stem, when I tightened the bolt that goes straight down the middle of the fork I think I may have over tightened as it heard it go "crack" so to speak, would the frame etc. still be ok? I un did them and re-tightened but not as much

going to order a torque wrench now as im worried about my carbon bike

Did you re-tighten things in the right order? Top cap bolt first, then stem bolts? If you did it the other way round then it could make an alarming noise when the stem got pushed down the steerer by force.

As for a torque wrench... Yes, it's a good idea, but unless your bike is at the more expensive end of the range the steerer is probably alloy anyway, so that shouldn't be a particular worry, and if you're using a top cap with a bolt rather than an expanding bung, then I'd guess it is aluminium rather than carbon.
 
Ah yes, thanks - what's a non-garmin alternative (that i can get *free* OS maps onto) :) It'd be a bonus if it has an "I'm tired/lost, please get me home" function.

http://www.mio.com/product-Bike-Navigation-Overview.htm

A friend bought one recently and though it has it's foibles (much like the Garmin products) it seems just a little bit better at almost everything. Battery life is a little worse however - 10-11 hours instead of 11-12 on the Garmin.

So a lot of people would recommend the 510 over the 810?

I agree with Grudas. If you want navigation then I'd say the 810 is better - but the 510 will also do the job, just slightly less well.

I like my Edge 800. IIRC, turn-by-turn has worked on all bar one ride for me (that ride it showed the route but refused to give the directions at junctions.

I'd go for a unit with graphical mapping as I've used the maps to bail me out when I've stitched myself up on a ride (I've tried to send myself down a dirt track or footpath).

Is there much alternative to an Edge 8xx or 1000 though if you want mapping? Bryton Ride 50/60?

See above :)
 
How important is what you eat before/during a long (for me that's 35+ miles) ride? My fitness level is low; my weight is high. I reckon I should weigh about 11 stone. I'm 4 above that at present :(

I want to do a few rides of that length a week, but build up to it - I don't think I could do more than one a week, my buttocks wouldn't take it, but a new saddle may help. I may invest in a spoon - they seem comfier than mine (kappa prologo or something).

All the while losing weight by cutting down a lot on my calorific intake, but I don't want to have no energy for cycling, if that makes sense?
 
Did you re-tighten things in the right order? Top cap bolt first, then stem bolts? If you did it the other way round then it could make an alarming noise when the stem got pushed down the steerer by force.

As for a torque wrench... Yes, it's a good idea, but unless your bike is at the more expensive end of the range the steerer is probably alloy anyway, so that shouldn't be a particular worry, and if you're using a top cap with a bolt rather than an expanding bung, then I'd guess it is aluminium rather than carbon.

good question, pretty much done it that order did all 3 bolts a bit by bit
 
Felt somewhat less dead on my lunch rides today. Perhaps it was just "first ride after a break" syndrome. Still don't feel I'm 100% but at least I don't feel like I'm a 40 stone guy wheezing up a flight of stairs any more.

Had quite an amusing moment on the way home where some guy got annoyed by me starting off faster than him at the lights. As I was cruising along at 20 or so he shot past me. I just sat on his tail (far enough back not to be overtly drafting) and waited for him to run out of steam - which took about 10 seconds. I returned the favour then and left him puffing and panting along at whatever crawling speed he could maintain. Fun fun.
 
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