Road Cycling

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Vonhelmet said:
Campagnolo unveil new groupset. The chainset is revolting.

Disc brakes, too.
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The whole groupset is disgusting. And I'm normally the last person to complain about looks. Bleurgh. I don't like the rubber hoods either. They look very council.

Yeah - tis the shear force on the mounts I think that's the problem. Rider weight is all on the seatpost (and obviously seatstays) but at a certain angle along them... not down on top of them as a load on a rack would be.

I think. I don't know these things.

I just now want one bike to do it "all". Slow rides with the mrs, faster rides with the club. 100 mile+ big efforts that are an all day thing and commuting to work and back (about 15-20 miles each way) along frankly ****ing awful road surfaces, so needs to be comfortable. But in all weathers and I don't want to get covered in cack so full guards are pretty much essential too when required.

The Specialized offerings seem very much what I want... the diverge especially so (but why's there no Di2 offering, and why's it £500 more than the Roubaix?)

Just if only I can get it to hold a rack... would be great to carry my DSLR and some extra bits on board with me when I don't feel the need to be light.
 
Roady said:
Might be something to do with your sleep tracker getting confused with your normal rides? (your 'activities' for the day starting with your sleep and finishing with your ride home?)

Part of my reasoning at looking at the Diverge/Roubaix is the additional tech they have over your basic cheaper disc frame (things like Zertz & a better 'road' geometry). It's not a cost saving self-build exercise for me as I've already looked at that...
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Hmm, still doesn't make sense. I only do a turbo ride in the morning, and I currently walk to and from work. So I only have Strava data uploaded in the morning. It's just more annoying than anything.

Sorry, didn't mean to suggest a frame other than Diverge/Roubaix. I just meant a cheaper version of the bike, and then add the other parts (just wasn't sure if it was economical to do it).
 
FrenchTart said:
The one thing about my Chinese carbon frame that I would complain about is the internal routing. It's a huge huge pain to work with - much worse than any other internal routing I've dealt with. I just can't be bothered with the frustration any more.
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Thats the only problem ive had with mine as well. I took me about 2 weeks to get the rear cables through. Then one day it went in first time. I found new levels of rage with that one.:p
 
topgun06 said:
Next time, do the service yourself. Save a whack of cash, learn something new, have some fun and get on the bike the next day :D

I'm a big advocate for DIY bike jobs.
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Completely agree and I have been and have learnt quite a bit, but I think it's damage that causing my recent problem after being hit again last week, RD does not look right and the guy I've gave the bike too is sorting me out with a new set of wheel too so it was convenient for him to give the bike a proper run over as well and then switch out the wheels. :D

When I get a new bike for the summer, I'll be stripping down my bike and building everything from the ground up.
I'm not the best mechanic at all, and this is my first endeavour at servicing my bike regularly and keeping it going.

I suppose I've kept it ticking along for 3k miles, but this time I'm 99% sure it's damaged.
 
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Went to tinker with the bikes for a bit while my wife gets ready to go shopping and found that the hook holding my 30LB + Accessories hybrid had nearly pulled out of my breeze block garage wall so I'm going to have to fit something more substantial.

I also checked the chain wear on my road and hybrid. Road, less than 0.75 so all good. The hybrid... 1.0 is a loose fit :o I've got 1250 miles clocked on it on Strava but did maybe another 400 before I started using Strava. I was expecting the chain to have had it but I wasn't expecting quite that level of wear on the cassette. A quick visual check was enough to tell me it has had it. £20 will see it right though as it is only 7 speed and it has seen some pretty poor treatment/neglect in that 1700 odd miles.

That said part of me is thinking not to bother and just throw some guards on the road bike for all year use but I'd hate to see my 'nice' bike caked is muck off the lanes... even if that nice bike is only a sub £500 Pinnacle. I might have a speculative look at one of these today... just for research purposes of course - https://www.evanscycles.com/jamis-renegade-exile-2016-adventure-road-bike-EV245157 looks like it would make a functional winter hack... but then again it costs more than I paid for my current bike :o
 
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touch said:
I'm a big advocate for DIYing any job!

My poor car has been up on axle stands for 3 weeks as I make slow progress on fixing her :p
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Nah, I built up one bike myself and happy to do so but the Jag goes to the garage especially as it has a warranty
 
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Checked my Zonda's for wear this morning and blimey they look quite concave! Due to some random issues the rear one is on my winter bike currently so I think it may be time to get some Aksiums for the winter CAAD12 and treat myself to some 50mm chinese carbons for my Scott CR1.
 
How long do rim braking wheels tend to last?

I'd hate to spend £1.5k on some Enve's only for them to need binning 5k miles later.
 
Dunks said:
How long do rim braking wheels tend to last?

I'd hate to spend £1.5k on some Enve's only for them to need binning 5k miles later.
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i cut up a mavic open sport i'd unlaced after 6k miles of rough, wet, winter, urban riding. Basically as nasty as it gets for a road rim.

It still had plenty left, at least 40% i'd say, so 10000 miles is a fair estimate provided you change your pads in a timely manner, and use good ones (NO TEKTRO!)
 
a rim can be surprisingly concave to look at and still have loads of life...

i found this online
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if in doubt, get some dental calipers off ebay
 
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Alu and carbon rims also tend to have differing lifespans - as much down to the braking surface and the need to be more careful about pad choice/etc as anything else.
 
Woohoo, have managed to get the cycle to work scheme business cleared with the Mrs so I'm going to go ahead and sign up for that. Not a moment too soon, really, as I can feel that the current gearing on my single speed is going to roger my knee in short order. It's a bit too tall for the stop start of commuting.
 
Vonhelmet said:
Woohoo, have managed to get the cycle to work scheme business cleared with the Mrs so I'm going to go ahead and sign up for that. Not a moment too soon, really, as I can feel that the current gearing on my single speed is going to roger my knee in short order. It's a bit too tall for the stop start of commuting.
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So, tell us, what are you buying? :D (And remind me, what's the budget you get?)
 
Wiggle won't repair the Ridley so getting them to send it back. Going to bodge it for now and just ride it to destruction probably now.

Completely unsure what path to take having just chucked a new groupset on it.
 
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Saytan said:
i cut up a mavic open sport i'd unlaced after 6k miles of rough, wet, winter, urban riding. Basically as nasty as it gets for a road rim.

It still had plenty left, at least 40% i'd say, so 10000 miles is a fair estimate provided you change your pads in a timely manner, and use good ones (NO TEKTRO!)
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Cool, figured it'd be pretty high!
 
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