Road Cycling

Status
Not open for further replies.
Quick Garmin related question...

With a recent bike purchase I now have one bike with a Giant RideSense Speed/Cadence sensor and another with a (recently warranty replaced) Garmin Speed Cadence Sensor.

I have one Garmin 500.

The Giant S/C paired easily enough and I've not yet use the other bike or finished setting up the replacement Garmin S/C (which happens to be the newer style).

Do I need to set up a different bike profile on my Garmin? or can I just pair multiple S/C to my Garmin?
 
Quick Garmin related question...

With a recent bike purchase I now have one bike with a Giant RideSense Speed/Cadence sensor and another with a (recently warranty replaced) Garmin Speed Cadence Sensor.

I have one Garmin 500.

The Giant S/C paired easily enough and I've not yet use the other bike or finished setting up the replacement Garmin S/C (which happens to be the newer style).

Do I need to set up a different bike profile on my Garmin? or can I just pair multiple S/C to my Garmin?

I switch between two different bikes depending on the weather and I have two profiles on my 810 as it didn't pick up one of the sensors when I tried using the same profile. It may be the garmin was having a wobbly but I couldn't be bothered to find out whether it could be sorted or not as setting up another profile is simple enough.
 
I switch between two different bikes depending on the weather and I have two profiles on my 810 as it didn't pick up one of the sensors when I tried using the same profile. It may be the garmin was having a wobbly but I couldn't be bothered to find out whether it could be sorted or not as setting up another profile is simple enough.

I'll use this method, thanks.

Worth noting that as the new style sensors are two separate units, talking independently rather than the old style single central unit with two sensors, I had to change my search on my Garmin to 'Speed and Cadence' Rather than 'Speed/Cadence'.
 
Last edited:
I'll use this method, thanks.

Worth noting that as the new style sensors are two separate units, talking independently rather than the old style single central unit with two sensors, I had to change my search on my Garmin to 'Speed and Cadence' Rather than 'Speed/Cadence'.

Sorry I should have said I don't use a speed sensor, just the cadence and HRM. When I switched bikes, my garmin wouldn't pick up the garmin cadence sensor on the same profile to the RideSense as I paired the RideSense sensor for a run on the turbo trainer to make sure the bike was set up properly.
 
I think Ive asked this before but I can't remember the answer. Does anyone have experience with selling a £1000+ bike? Did you just do cash in hand? Or has anyone sent a bike by courier - how did that work?

Thanks in advance.
 
Urgh, tedious repair spannering tonight. I took my Miche wheels off my single speed bike and put the crap heavy ones back on, along with a chain that I had mercifully had the foresight to order in a few weeks back! It all looks ok. I've done the track nuts up good and tight as I can't be certain that wasn't a contributing factor in this morning's mess.

I've had a look at the damage to the wheel. There's four spokes totally broken, and another four with big scratches in them that I can't trust any more. Basically of the 16 drive side spokes it looks like those with the elbow to the inside of the freewheel are dead or dying, while the eight with the head on that side were spared that fate because the elbows of the dead spokes got in the way. So that's eight spokes to replace. Based on what the LBS said on the phone, I reckon it'll cost somewhere around £20-25 for them to fix it. Their mechanic isn't around until next Monday so it can go in Saturday and come back to me the following weekend... Then I'll sell that wheelset on, I expect. The shine has gone off them, so to speak, and they won't match my new single speed anyway, which comes with silver rims and other silver finishing kit :p

The chainstay is heavily scratched where the chain scraped against it. I've got some car paint knocking around so I think I'll clean it up and paint over it with the clear lacquer. It won't be pretty but it should keep the rust at bay. I'll be selling the bike imminently anyway, so I'll have to be honest about it, but hey ho. What can you do, no point crying over spilt milk, or chipped paint.
 
Last edited:
Good morning,

Just popping in for a spec me post I am afraid.

I am thinking of getting intoroad biking. I currently only have a Pashley Roadster soverign, whilst this met my needs whilst living in central London so I could cycle to work and not get splashed from puddles in a suit, its a bit too heavy for my new commute to work which is more rural now plus I fancy doing a few 100 mile plus cycles with some friends.

I aim to get the bike through our cycle to work scheme which limits me to £1000 and has to be purchased from evans cycles. I don't mind whacking in a little extra though.

any suggestions, I like the look of the ones below so far:

https://www.evanscycles.com/fuji-transonic-2-7-2016-road-bike-EV241885

https://www.evanscycles.com/fuji-gran-fondo-1-3-classic-2016-road-bike-EV241904

https://www.evanscycles.com/scott-speedster-10-2016-road-bike-EV253448 I think they do this one with discs, but not sure they are essential.

any help is appreciated.

thanks
 
Going straight from a dutch bike to an aggressive geometry race bike might be a bit of a shock to the system, to say the least. I'd suggest sticking with an endurance bike, you'll be trading a small amount of speed for a lot of comfort - which will probably make you faster anyway.

Evans carry Genesis bikes, around that budget I'd say they're definitely worth a look in. Solid British manufacturer, great geometry, and easily adaptable to pretty much any type of riding you want to do. CdA 20, Equilibrium 10/20, Croix de Fer 10/20. Buttery smooth steel frames too.
 
Evans carry Genesis bikes, around that budget I'd say they're definitely worth a look in.

I'd disagree tbh - you're not gonna get much Genesis for your money for a grand. You'd get an Equilibrium with Tiagra and bad rim brakes - whereas a grand would get you 105 and decent discs with many other brands.

And I say this as someone who's main bike is a Genesis.

At Evans you can get a Synapse with 105 and (mediocre) discs for 1k, or the Charge Plug 4 with 105 and (decent) TRP Spyres.
 
I'd say steel is what is being "taxed" rather than the brand as such, and I say that as someone currently in the process of replacing one steel bike with another and with plans to buikd another next year!
 
The ups and downs of trying to get your wife into cycling...

Talked through getting her setup on Zwift while I was at work, she said she had a ride, excellent I thought. Came home and went to jump on the bike after a weights session and the wheel is not right. Look down and there is a snapped spoke, a bent one and a big chip out of the frame.
She then tells me she left the allen key in by accident when adjusting the seat, so it looks like it fell, got wedged in between the frame and spoke as she's riding.
Claims she didn't hear a thing...

Now I need to have my Zonda fixed, luckily I had the Mavic Ksyrium I could put on the rear so I could get a ride. She better not break this one!

Then did the climb on zwift up the back of the pass. **** me. An hour of like 13% was breaking me.
 
I am tempted, due to last nights mishaps, to get another trainer and she can have her own.

Means I'll get the Tacx Ironman though :p 20% gradient and 1500w max, I think that would cover it. On sale at the moment too at 570EUR!
 
I was wondering what sort of mount they used as that footage is much less shaky than I expected.
Agreed, had a quick look over my footage from my Sportive and some of it is so damn shakey it's not even worth keeping. Roads are far from perfect around here but with riding on main roads at 20+ mph the vibration makes most of the footage unusable! :(
depends what go-pro's they've used.. if they used 4 blacks then yeah, no doubt it will be better! but it costs 4x as much too :)
Very true! Sometimes forget that the VIRB is about 3 years old!
Do I need to set up a different bike profile on my Garmin? or can I just pair multiple S/C to my Garmin?
Different bike profiles is the best way, although my 810 does distinguish between a 'Speed & Cadence' and a 'Speed' + 'Cadence' sensors, although IIRC it won't allow you to pair 2 cadence sensors it will allow you to pair 2 speeds.
I've got some car paint knocking around so I think I'll clean it up and paint over it with the clear lacquer. It won't be pretty but it should keep the rust at bay. I'll be selling the bike imminently anyway, so I'll have to be honest about it, but hey ho. What can you do, no point crying over spilt milk, or chipped paint.
Nail varnish works well, lots of different shades too... Although don't be surprised if the other half starts to give you funny looks/comments... Clear = ok, black = "I'm not a goth", white = "when have you ever seen me wearing white nail varnish?"
plus I fancy doing a few 100 mile plus cycles with some friends.

I aim to get the bike through our cycle to work scheme which limits me to £1000 and has to be purchased from evans cycles. I don't mind whacking in a little extra though.

any suggestions, I like the look of the ones below so far:

https://www.evanscycles.com/fuji-transonic-2-7-2016-road-bike-EV241885

https://www.evanscycles.com/fuji-gran-fondo-1-3-classic-2016-road-bike-EV241904

https://www.evanscycles.com/scott-speedster-10-2016-road-bike-EV253448 I think they do this one with discs, but not sure they are essential.
100 mile Sportives are a different beast to 'getting your first road bike' although not totally foreign to each other. For your first road bike you are taking a big change in riding position and style, getting comfortable in the new position is a big thing. For long 5+ hour sportives being comfortable on the bike is the most important thing, which is why you see so many 'sportive' and 'endurance' branded road bikes. They generally have a much more related geometry than your 'race' orientated machines (your classic 'road' bike).

Both of the Fuji's are very similarly specced, being both carbon with the same 105 groupsets. The only real difference being the BB's - One of them runs a 'Praxis conversion' and the other a BB86 (much more standard). Although the Transonic is the more aggressive machine being aero and speed orientated (race) while the gran frodo has a more relaxed upright position (higher head tube) so is aimed at more of an endurance ride. The Scott is another race machine, although being a alloy/carbon mix it's heavier it has a combination of Ultegra and 105 groupset making it slightly better specced. Although it doesn't mention which shifters it comes with (generally one of the most expensive parts of the groupset).

Discs are a personal thing, if commuting and looking at this price bracket then they are within your 'reach', and probably recommended if you intend on riding all weathers/seasons. If you're a predominantly leisure rider then they're more of an 'expense' which you possibly don't require (and would benefit more from a better frame/groupset at this price point).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom