Road Cycling

Soldato
Joined
20 Feb 2004
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Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Well that was a mistake. I was taking a van back to my wifes cousins as decided it was too small for Spain.

Drove over to his place with the bike in the back to then cycle home. Got there around 1pm and realised i'd left my water bottle in the office. I'd also not had breakfast/lunch. Since we met at a pub it also seemed wrong not to have a pint.

It was at this point i noticed i had a broken spoke. I'd heard a twang on a ride on Saturday near Blackpool on a horrific road surface, but thought it came from the front and ignored it.

Set off cycling and was horrific going through Sale and then towards Bolton. Lots of Bike lane>nothing>2m bike lane>nothing over and over again. Then the Strava route took me onto a shared track through some trees. If i was out with the wife for a leisurely ride it would've been lovely, but it was full of families walking taking up the full path so couldn't really build any speed.

Finally got about 20 miles in and came to a main A road and found a BP to load up on some water and sweets/chocolate. Then it took me on some windy country roads before hitting Belmont which i know quite well and on some lovely roads through the hills. My neck is now killing. It's a while since i've spent 2.5hrs on a bike!
 
Associate
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14 Jan 2007
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747
Contaminated. Get the pads out and disc off, give them a sand and bit of cleaner on there and chuck them in the oven for 30 minutes.
Everything for both the pads and discs?

All my rear pads are contaminated at the moment. 4 sets across 2 bikes. It's infuriating. I guess I'll just do them all at once
 

fez

fez

Caporegime
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Tunbridge Wells
Disc pads are a tricky one. If they are contaminated enough you might find that you get rid of the surface crap but it just comes to the surface again. The other reasonably common issue is leaking pistons which are sometimes a write off of the caliper. If your pads keep getting contaminated even in good conditions you might want to give the calipers and pistons a good clean while the pads are out and then check again once the pads have been in for a few rides to see if there is any oil on them.
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
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Hereford
Would I be right in saying that the noise indicates it's more likely to be contaminated pads/rotors than something that bleeding will fix? If so, is a scrub of the pads and disc with Isopropanol and a light sanding of the pads my best option? Any other tricks to consider?
Probably but always doing some bleeding to get shot of air bubbles, but will also clear water that's got in it (being Shimano). Will do a bit of a 'reset' on the pad widths with the rotor and help tidy/tighten things up - also helping noise.

But generally as discussed here and how you think - a good clean! I quite like sanding my pads to give them some 'bite' but during wet/dirty conditions they can get quite glazed with my usual riding and quite noisy. Have even lightly sanded rotors before to take some glaze/surface rust from them too. Need longer descents to properly clear them - that almost works better than any maintenance! Gets some decent heat buildup into them and pull them tight a few times to really burn the surfaces a little.

Contaminated. Get the pads out and disc off, give them a sand and bit of cleaner on there and chuck them in the oven for 30 minutes.
What kind of temperature are you putting them in for? I've never done it but heard of it working well, but more the MTB side of things. Would think the temps really had to be high to burn off a shimano mineral oil if they'd self contaminated?

Disc pads are a tricky one. If they are contaminated enough you might find that you get rid of the surface crap but it just comes to the surface again. The other reasonably common issue is leaking pistons which are sometimes a write off of the caliper. If your pads keep getting contaminated even in good conditions you might want to give the calipers and pistons a good clean while the pads are out and then check again once the pads have been in for a few rides to see if there is any oil on them.
It's really hard to see oil if it's only minor. My front was a bit leaky at one point from the oil/barb. Took weeks for me to even notice and had even bled it and topped it up once during that time. Tended to notice salty buildup from it on the caliper surface afterwards and took that as being just a leftover as it hadn't contaminated the pad surface (as far as I could tell). But it also wouldn't clean off - almost like a buildup from road salt during the winter, but it wasn't. Has kinda lifted the paint from part of my caliper as a result from it. Serves me right as I probably didn't clean it well once I'd realised and just washed/wiped with usual products, should have used some disk cleaner on the caliper body or something.
 
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Soldato
Joined
25 Feb 2004
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18,234
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Hampshire
Probably but always doing some bleeding to get shot of air bubbles, but will also clear water that's got in it (being Shimano). Will do a bit of a 'reset' on the pad widths with the rotor and help tidy/tighten things up - also helping noise.

But generally as discussed here and how you think - a good clean! I quite like sanding my pads to give them some 'bite' but during wet/dirty conditions they can get quite glazed with my usual riding and quite noisy. Have even lightly sanded rotors before to take some glaze/surface rust from them too. Need longer descents to properly clear them - that almost works better than any maintenance! Gets some decent heat buildup into them and pull them tight a few times to really burn the surfaces a little.


What kind of temperature are you putting them in for? I've never done it but heard of it working well, but more the MTB side of things. Would think the temps really had to be high to burn off a shimano mineral oil if they'd self contaminated?


It's really hard to see oil if it's only minor. My front was a bit leaky at one point from the oil/barb. Took weeks for me to even notice and had even bled it and topped it up once during that time. Tended to notice salty buildup from it on the caliper surface afterwards and took that as being just a leftover as it hadn't contaminated the pad surface (as far as I could tell). But it also wouldn't clean off - almost like a buildup from road salt during the winter, but it wasn't. Has kinda lifted the paint from part of my caliper as a result from it. Serves me right as I probably didn't clean it well once I'd realised and just washed/wiped with usual products, should have used some disk cleaner on the caliper body or something.
Think I did 200 last time.
 
Soldato
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Moving...
Contaminated. Get the pads out and disc off, give them a sand and bit of cleaner on there and chuck them in the oven for 30 minutes.
Thanks for the tip. Seems to have done the trick. :)

I didn't remove the rotor as I don't have the tools, but I soaked it (and the pads) in some muc off for 15 mins or so, then very lightly sanded the rotor and sanded the pads a bit more vigorously. Wiped the rotor a couple of times with some isopropyl alcohol, then wiped the pads with plenty too. Popped the pads in the oven for about 20 mins on gas mark 6 to dry them out.

Went up and down the road a few times to gently bed them in. Not back to showroom sharpness, but much better than it was, and completely silent.

Now fingers crossed it was just a bit of scum from the road or some rogue gt85 from when I clean rather than a hydraulic leak somewhere.
 
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Soldato
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24 Feb 2013
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4,151
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East Midlands
Where have you seen lots of the SL8 info? Have to admit I've not read up too much on it yet, just looked at a few images...

Kinda hoping for some good deals on SL7's with the integrated bars this autumn if I'm honest...

YouTube is ok, but a lot of the videos are very careful about what they say and why. Quite a few exceptions on SL8 like Hambini, Alex Dowset even openly riding it before release and so on.

Weight weenies is well worth a look for info as they're all over anything throwing money at stuff for fun and not being afraid to show problems and flaws. There is threads relating to popular tour test results showing actual data on aero info from tunnel testing (not always fair results). It's all fairly irrelevant to 95%+ of riders but helps justify things. Another way of looking at it is like saying, is this aero spaceship I might buy that will likely date badly actually faster than something less like a spaceship (system six, s5, foil, madone etc compared to supersix, r5, addict, emonda etc).

From now looking at 50+ brands and countless bikes (even alu and titanium), ignoring supply issue (which is massive if you include integrated bar supply) the hardest thing to overlook buying new is how the tcr can be picked up now for 3k on full 12 speed ultegra di2. The gap between pro and advanced has closed due to fork, yes the wheels are terrible but they are on most bikes and whilst not very aero, frame weight is fine and tyre clearance good. I think sub 4k for easy weight around 7.5 (m/l) and some good fast wide wheels with reasonable hubs. Frame design apparently not updating in 2024 either and only two cables now exposed due to wireless shifters. I think to better it you're either spending far more or buying untested Chinese or the like.
 
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Soldato
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24 Feb 2013
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4,151
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East Midlands
Planet X now offering ec130 with ultegra too

I did take a look but I just can't justify anything like it less well tested as you may as well buy a Chinese frame and build it all for similar money but better wheels and your ideal finishing kit. I'm not that keen now on the look of aero bikes but who doesn't want free speed. There's a few brands now literally entirely ripping off mainstream bikes like the Simplon pride 2 and they are aero as well. Again though, what's quality like, warranty, often heavier and so on. I would have already purchased latest propel if it wasn't for the stupid looking horizontal top tube that scales terribly in larger sizes and the blackcurrant colorway. Don't think anyone is doing better wheels around that price with redesign.
 
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Soldato
Joined
28 Apr 2011
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14,942
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Barnet, London
A bit of a sobering morning yesterday. We met as usual (the local 'club') to be told one of our regulars was involved in a bad cycling accident yesterday and is in intensive care. Don't know a lot, but it's not sounding good. Be safe out there people.

Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.

Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)
 
Associate
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15 Feb 2017
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the ghetto
A bit of a sobering morning yesterday. We met as usual (the local 'club') to be told one of our regulars was involved in a bad cycling accident yesterday and is in intensive care. Don't know a lot, but it's not sounding good. Be safe out there people.

Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.

Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)

Sorry to hear about your club mumber.

Bit of a daft one regarding the creek underload/climbing. I had similar a few years back, changed the BB and all sorts but it wouldn't go away. It actually turned out that the rear wheel skewer had become loose. I'm guessing the frame lost its rigidness maybe.

You probably have but if you haven't check both front and back.
 
Associate
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the ghetto
It's through axel, but yes, it's tight. Unless you mean something is worn out and even when you tighten it, something isn't fitting properly now?

Ah ok, when i had what i described happen to me I could have sworn it was through the axel. Nothing was worn out with mine when it happened, just a really loose skewer. I've had a few odd ones that's caused creaking, even my aero bar garmin arm caused creaking at one point which also sounded like it came from the axel when i was riding it under load.

What BB do you have and when was the bearing last replaced ?
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Feb 2004
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18,234
Location
Hampshire
A bit of a sobering morning yesterday. We met as usual (the local 'club') to be told one of our regulars was involved in a bad cycling accident yesterday and is in intensive care. Don't know a lot, but it's not sounding good. Be safe out there people.

Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.

Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)
Hope he heals up! Doubt there'd be a crack, it's probably BB or something around there. Have you tried tightening up the chainring bolts!
 
Associate
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5 Apr 2004
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1,203
Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.

Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)


He does some of the best guide videos I've watched. Albeit at about half the talking speed of other videos.
 
Associate
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5 Apr 2004
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Dow an endurance geometry make much of a difference vs more race setup?
I have an Endurance SL Disc and a Cannondale Systemsix. I wouldn't say there's much difference in how my position and comfort feels on the bikes.

Done 100km on both and felt equally as sore..
Rebuilding the Endurance into my new winter bike and should have pictures of both soon.
 
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