Everything for both the pads and discs?Contaminated. Get the pads out and disc off, give them a sand and bit of cleaner on there and chuck them in the oven for 30 minutes.
Probably but always doing some bleeding to get shot of air bubbles, but will also clear water that's got in it (being Shimano). Will do a bit of a 'reset' on the pad widths with the rotor and help tidy/tighten things up - also helping noise.Would I be right in saying that the noise indicates it's more likely to be contaminated pads/rotors than something that bleeding will fix? If so, is a scrub of the pads and disc with Isopropanol and a light sanding of the pads my best option? Any other tricks to consider?
What kind of temperature are you putting them in for? I've never done it but heard of it working well, but more the MTB side of things. Would think the temps really had to be high to burn off a shimano mineral oil if they'd self contaminated?Contaminated. Get the pads out and disc off, give them a sand and bit of cleaner on there and chuck them in the oven for 30 minutes.
It's really hard to see oil if it's only minor. My front was a bit leaky at one point from the oil/barb. Took weeks for me to even notice and had even bled it and topped it up once during that time. Tended to notice salty buildup from it on the caliper surface afterwards and took that as being just a leftover as it hadn't contaminated the pad surface (as far as I could tell). But it also wouldn't clean off - almost like a buildup from road salt during the winter, but it wasn't. Has kinda lifted the paint from part of my caliper as a result from it. Serves me right as I probably didn't clean it well once I'd realised and just washed/wiped with usual products, should have used some disk cleaner on the caliper body or something.Disc pads are a tricky one. If they are contaminated enough you might find that you get rid of the surface crap but it just comes to the surface again. The other reasonably common issue is leaking pistons which are sometimes a write off of the caliper. If your pads keep getting contaminated even in good conditions you might want to give the calipers and pistons a good clean while the pads are out and then check again once the pads have been in for a few rides to see if there is any oil on them.
Think I did 200 last time.Probably but always doing some bleeding to get shot of air bubbles, but will also clear water that's got in it (being Shimano). Will do a bit of a 'reset' on the pad widths with the rotor and help tidy/tighten things up - also helping noise.
But generally as discussed here and how you think - a good clean! I quite like sanding my pads to give them some 'bite' but during wet/dirty conditions they can get quite glazed with my usual riding and quite noisy. Have even lightly sanded rotors before to take some glaze/surface rust from them too. Need longer descents to properly clear them - that almost works better than any maintenance! Gets some decent heat buildup into them and pull them tight a few times to really burn the surfaces a little.
What kind of temperature are you putting them in for? I've never done it but heard of it working well, but more the MTB side of things. Would think the temps really had to be high to burn off a shimano mineral oil if they'd self contaminated?
It's really hard to see oil if it's only minor. My front was a bit leaky at one point from the oil/barb. Took weeks for me to even notice and had even bled it and topped it up once during that time. Tended to notice salty buildup from it on the caliper surface afterwards and took that as being just a leftover as it hadn't contaminated the pad surface (as far as I could tell). But it also wouldn't clean off - almost like a buildup from road salt during the winter, but it wasn't. Has kinda lifted the paint from part of my caliper as a result from it. Serves me right as I probably didn't clean it well once I'd realised and just washed/wiped with usual products, should have used some disk cleaner on the caliper body or something.
Thanks for the tip. Seems to have done the trick.Contaminated. Get the pads out and disc off, give them a sand and bit of cleaner on there and chuck them in the oven for 30 minutes.
Where have you seen lots of the SL8 info? Have to admit I've not read up too much on it yet, just looked at a few images...
Kinda hoping for some good deals on SL7's with the integrated bars this autumn if I'm honest...
Planet X now offering ec130 with ultegra too
A bit of a sobering morning yesterday. We met as usual (the local 'club') to be told one of our regulars was involved in a bad cycling accident yesterday and is in intensive care. Don't know a lot, but it's not sounding good. Be safe out there people.
Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.
Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)
It's through axel, but yes, it's tight. Unless you mean something is worn out and even when you tighten it, something isn't fitting properly now?
I honestly couldn't tell you, but the LBS checked it yesterday and said it was fine (once they'd managed to remove some of the movement in it)What BB do you have and when was the bearing last replaced ?
Hope he heals up! Doubt there'd be a crack, it's probably BB or something around there. Have you tried tightening up the chainring bolts!A bit of a sobering morning yesterday. We met as usual (the local 'club') to be told one of our regulars was involved in a bad cycling accident yesterday and is in intensive care. Don't know a lot, but it's not sounding good. Be safe out there people.
Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.
Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)
/snip -looking at canyon bikes
Makes my problems seem trivial, but the creaks have come back to my bike, when climbing under strain. Lbs/Cafe stop had a fiddle, tightened BB and checked rear wheel bearings, but it still creaked on the ride home. Could it be the freehub? If I freewheel for a second, the put the strain through again, it often stops creaking for a minute or so.
Could there be a crack in the frame? (but then why would the brief freewheel stop the noise?)
I have an Endurance SL Disc and a Cannondale Systemsix. I wouldn't say there's much difference in how my position and comfort feels on the bikes.Dow an endurance geometry make much of a difference vs more race setup?