Road Cycling

the new ones were £200
I think they're £169 at the moment and I got mine from John Lewis, so Partner discount made it a lock for me.
i get the impression they'll perform better in the wind too
Interesting as this is my concern. I watched DesFits review where he said over 20mph they're not as loud as the old ones, as part of the volume is air conduction and at speed that becomes harder to hear, which makes sense. I probably wont know until next weekend. Maybe if we get a little nice weather this week, I might try to get out at lunch time. I'm hoping to do a video review as I've not done many recently, so would be good to get some B Roll.
 
Ah, i was working in Euros (€200) so guess that translates around £169

Oh, funny to have heard different reviews, maybe i'm just mixing "stronger bass" which was one of the benefits of air, and thinking i read it as better wind resistance. That's one of the main downfalls for me, being in a valley it's always quite windy and the amount of times i have to pause a podcast because i don't want to miss it. Music is generally fine though.
 
Next potentially stupid question.

For 50mm rims, what size Tubeless stem do i need? The inner rim is probably 15mm inside the rim, so in theory the internal depth is probably 30-35mm, suggesting a 60mm valve would only stick out around 25-30mm which doesn't seem much, but most i can find top out at 60mm, or jump from 60mm to 100mm (Schwalbe). It's annoying!

EDIT - Found some Dynamic ones.
 
Last edited:
For my 60mm deep wheels I use 80mm stems.

Man, this house stuff is exhausting and we've barely started. Got a bit of a kick in the nuts that one of the houses we were targeting had been reserved over the weekend. I know it was never ours but, for me anyway, it's hard not to get too ahead of yourself. I'm very much 'in for a penny, in for a pound' that I go all in on things - probably not the best mentality whilst house hunting...

The development called me up to explain it had just been reserved and she made me feel so poor in that moment lol. She said "Our sales office is going up for sale though, if you're interested. It's 560k" Basically had to laugh down the phone because it was about 90k above of what we were talking about as if we'd just find a cool 100k floating around..

We've found another on the same site we like, albeit without a garage, and it's a bit cheaper than the one we were trying to get (due to lack of garage) so we're going to give that a go. We have 7 people booked for viewing our house on Saturday so hopefully some good comes of it. Though we've agreed that if we get one without a garage we will build a proper outhouse/office space.

Sorry, I know it has zilch to do with bikes but here we are :o Though I suppose it is sort of related. Sooner we get the house, sooner I can start buying bike bits again.
 
as if we'd just find a cool 100k floating around..
I once logged into my Paypal account and found £10 I'd forgotten about. Might be worth checking?
For 50mm rims, what size Tubeless stem do i need?
I have 51mm up front and 59mm at the back and use only 80mm stems for these wheels.

Shiney new wheels are incoming though :cool:
 
Hmmm, unsure if a question for in here or not, at a quandry as to what to do. So far i have 2 bikes. My Road Bike (2x12 AXS, 28mm tyres), and a MTB bike (slightly too small, 1x10 and big knobbly tyres).

My general use case is to use my road bike for 95% of riding, which is done on the roads. For the purpose it's perfect, but there's sometimes occasions i'd prefer to venture on some rougher ground when i mess up my route planning and i don't trust the tyres for puncture resistance. For the other 5% i use the MTB, generally this is pottering into town for a drink where i just want normal trainers or venturing a bit off road which can be anything like loose gravel/rock. Image below of probably the "worst" kind of terrain, main issue being the rocks can be fairly sharp.
0hK8BCZ.png


I keep thinking the MTB isn't ideal for that 5% and it probably stops it growing from 5% up to more regular rides. The main reasons being the gearing doesn't go low enough for me and the tyres are so big/knobbly that it's pretty slow and hard work on the roads.

My plan was always to use an old wheelset, buy some 40mm gravel tyres, and then have a backup wheelset, but once i started pricing up new cassette, rotors, tyres etc it was quickly hitting around £300 which felt excessive. I then considered buying some 45mm less aggressive tyres for the mountain bike. Running a low psi should mean they handle the terrain above alright, and since it's always dry here i don't need too much grip, and i'll never be flying down hills anyway because i'm a wuss. I've an old unused Deore (maybe Tourney) chainring too which would increase my gearing quite a bit for the flatter parts. The caveat being i'm not sure how comfortably it would be to push this out to longer touring rides of 50miles or so. I could add drop bars and turn it into a hybrid bike as many people are doing now, but then i need new shifters and it turns into a big project.

I could just stick some 38/40mm tyres on my road bike, accept it'll be slightly slower but it's not like i'm particularly fast anyway. Then i just use that for all purposes, i then still get the nice electronic gearing and simplicity of the same bike. Downside being i still wouldn't use it for my pottering for a drink because of the pedals and i cba swapping pedals around, and i'd still have the same complaints on my MTB on those days, an it's harder work as my wife has an ebike she can do 25mph on and it kills me!

Finally, i could probably spend €300-€500 and just buy a gravel bike. Stick some flat pedals on it and be done with it. Downside there is it's an extra bike to squeeze past the wife and also it feels like it'd make my MTB redundant.

Anyone got any thoughts? At the moment i keep ordering things and then cancelling the order an hour later as i keep changing my mind!
 
I can't remember if it was you @Martynt74 but I have managed to get myself some saddle sores. Well, a patch that has rubbed raw right in the crease between my leg and my gooch :eek:

Did you ever work out the magic formula to heal it quickly. Off to Mallorca in about 2 weeks and want to get some last minute training in but this is a bit of a show stopper.
 
I can't remember if it was you @Martynt74 but I have managed to get myself some saddle sores. Well, a patch that has rubbed raw right in the crease between my leg and my gooch :eek:

Did you ever work out the magic formula to heal it quickly. Off to Mallorca in about 2 weeks and want to get some last minute training in but this is a bit of a show stopper.

Yeah, was me. I never really got any magic formula. I did buy some chamois cream but it didn't seem to do anything. I think mine was generally just the excess heat over summer where i was constantly sweating which then culminated in issues no matter whether i was cycling or just sitting in a cafe or on the sofa!

I've made zero adjustments to the bike and now it's cooler the issue seems to have resolved itself. I did try to use moisturiser every night before bed which maybe helped a little but not by much, so think mine were less saddle sores and more just a general sweat rash kind of thing.
 
I can't remember if it was you @Martynt74 but I have managed to get myself some saddle sores. Well, a patch that has rubbed raw right in the crease between my leg and my gooch :eek:

Did you ever work out the magic formula to heal it quickly. Off to Mallorca in about 2 weeks and want to get some last minute training in but this is a bit of a show stopper.
when I used to commute daily I had that too, way of fixing it really for me was just getting more "endurance" shorts that had a thick pad and that helped a bit. Chamois etc cream was good to just keep me more comfortable but seeing as I rode the bike daily with basically 0 days off it still happened once in a while. It is very painful and I presume very prone to infection too. Not a nice thing but I did try like 8 different saddles and still had it.
 
Hmmm, unsure if a question for in here or not, at a quandry as to what to do. So far i have 2 bikes. My Road Bike (2x12 AXS, 28mm tyres), and a MTB bike (slightly too small, 1x10 and big knobbly tyres).

My general use case is to use my road bike for 95% of riding, which is done on the roads. For the purpose it's perfect, but there's sometimes occasions i'd prefer to venture on some rougher ground when i mess up my route planning and i don't trust the tyres for puncture resistance. For the other 5% i use the MTB, generally this is pottering into town for a drink where i just want normal trainers or venturing a bit off road which can be anything like loose gravel/rock. Image below of probably the "worst" kind of terrain, main issue being the rocks can be fairly sharp.
0hK8BCZ.png


I keep thinking the MTB isn't ideal for that 5% and it probably stops it growing from 5% up to more regular rides. The main reasons being the gearing doesn't go low enough for me and the tyres are so big/knobbly that it's pretty slow and hard work on the roads.

My plan was always to use an old wheelset, buy some 40mm gravel tyres, and then have a backup wheelset, but once i started pricing up new cassette, rotors, tyres etc it was quickly hitting around £300 which felt excessive. I then considered buying some 45mm less aggressive tyres for the mountain bike. Running a low psi should mean they handle the terrain above alright, and since it's always dry here i don't need too much grip, and i'll never be flying down hills anyway because i'm a wuss. I've an old unused Deore (maybe Tourney) chainring too which would increase my gearing quite a bit for the flatter parts. The caveat being i'm not sure how comfortably it would be to push this out to longer touring rides of 50miles or so. I could add drop bars and turn it into a hybrid bike as many people are doing now, but then i need new shifters and it turns into a big project.

I could just stick some 38/40mm tyres on my road bike, accept it'll be slightly slower but it's not like i'm particularly fast anyway. Then i just use that for all purposes, i then still get the nice electronic gearing and simplicity of the same bike. Downside being i still wouldn't use it for my pottering for a drink because of the pedals and i cba swapping pedals around, and i'd still have the same complaints on my MTB on those days, an it's harder work as my wife has an ebike she can do 25mph on and it kills me!

Finally, i could probably spend €300-€500 and just buy a gravel bike. Stick some flat pedals on it and be done with it. Downside there is it's an extra bike to squeeze past the wife and also it feels like it'd make my MTB redundant.

Anyone got any thoughts? At the moment i keep ordering things and then cancelling the order an hour later as i keep changing my mind!
Ditch them all. The Pogi bike went on sale today.

 
Ditch them all. The Pogi bike went on sale today.


Out of stock :(

C0sg8sl.png
 
Yeah, was me. I never really got any magic formula. I did buy some chamois cream but it didn't seem to do anything. I think mine was generally just the excess heat over summer where i was constantly sweating which then culminated in issues no matter whether i was cycling or just sitting in a cafe or on the sofa!

I've made zero adjustments to the bike and now it's cooler the issue seems to have resolved itself. I did try to use moisturiser every night before bed which maybe helped a little but not by much, so think mine were less saddle sores and more just a general sweat rash kind of thing.

Yeah, mines the same, its chaffed skin rather than pimples or anything like that. Its my own fault really. Went on a semi long ride without checking that all the contact points on the new bike were set up right and paid the price.

Sudocrem?

Been putting that on it mainly for the antiseptic properties.
 
Fairly standard practise to ensure the frame isn't ridden again and therefore they're not liable for future failures.



I've gone the other way with the bikes gone with everything in my stable now AXS, my Boardman had a sticky piston and took a while to get it freed up, but eventually did and now pads have been perfect ever since. I'm still not sure on the brakes, definitely a bit more dead in them, especially compared to my GRX Di2 shifters, but shifting has been fine, the hoods aren't quite as comfortable though.
Yup have heard before of Canyon doing that - 'in field destruction'. Would guess it's because of the 'direct to consumer' type cost model. Horrible. But don't see it most others due to them having partner LBS... Then you're left with the hassle factor and the waiting around like @fez had with Giant... Not sure which is best!?

Interesting you've gone full SRAM mate. What was the main Pro's for that? You've listed a couple of Con's! Always the cost of components has turned me off... More I hear about their pad change overs and dot fluid not convinced of any bonus over Shimano other than the batteries...!?

I cycled for about 6½ yesterday and about 5½ hours in my Shokz OpenRun Pro headphones ran out of juice. I've had them last longer, so I wonder if they just didn't charge too well, even though I disconnected and connected them a couple of times as I know they're not so reliable with their proprietary magnetic charging cable. Either way, it got me thinking of the new OpenRun Pro 2's that came out last month and how I remembered seeing they advertised increased battery life. Hovering on the 'Buy' I headed off to watch some reviews... but returned instantly to click 'Buy' when I saw they charged with USB-C :cool:

dQslA8m.jpeg


I didn't pick them up until after today's ride, so don't know how they compare while riding yet, but they do sound very good in my living room with their new combined speaker and vibration tech.
THE WALL! Oh how I've missed it! :D

Let me know how you find them... I'm still using a pair of Anker p20i buds. Cheap & cheerful but don't expect them to live for long in the garage moisture/sweat. I don't wear earphones riding outdoors...

Next potentially stupid question.

For 50mm rims, what size Tubeless stem do i need? The inner rim is probably 15mm inside the rim, so in theory the internal depth is probably 30-35mm, suggesting a 60mm valve would only stick out around 25-30mm which doesn't seem much, but most i can find top out at 60mm, or jump from 60mm to 100mm (Schwalbe). It's annoying!
My Zipp FC 404 are 58mm and have 80mm stems. came with Zipp ones, then switched to Muc-Off ones for the side valves and sealant with tyre inserts... Probably have 20-30mm of the valve showing. I had some of the same size fitted on my 303 S which have 45mm and they looked too long. Not ugly but should have probably fitted 60mm.

Man, this house stuff is exhausting and we've barely started. Got a bit of a kick in the nuts that one of the houses we were targeting had been reserved over the weekend. I know it was never ours but, for me anyway, it's hard not to get too ahead of yourself. I'm very much 'in for a penny, in for a pound' that I go all in on things - probably not the best mentality whilst house hunting...

The development called me up to explain it had just been reserved and she made me feel so poor in that moment lol. She said "Our sales office is going up for sale though, if you're interested. It's 560k" Basically had to laugh down the phone because it was about 90k above of what we were talking about as if we'd just find a cool 100k floating around..
Yeah don't get too 'in love' with anything until you're really close on your own. Almost better to have a few options for various reasons... And keep looking! These things take an annoying amount of time, something so stressful and life defining/important with so much of it out of your control! :o

Don't be afraid about offering way below asking, but also consider how little adding an extra 20-30k to the mortgage it actually does to your monthly premium...!

Shiney new wheels are incoming though :cool:
OoooOOOOooooohhhh. Pics!

I can't remember if it was you @Martynt74 but I have managed to get myself some saddle sores. Well, a patch that has rubbed raw right in the crease between my leg and my gooch :eek:

Did you ever work out the magic formula to heal it quickly. Off to Mallorca in about 2 weeks and want to get some last minute training in but this is a bit of a show stopper.
E45 cream works well to aid healing, as does Sudocream as suggested. Anything for 'sensitive' skin, but really you need to keep off the saddle a few days to help things heal! :eek:

I did have some of the Assos 'skin repair gel' from somewhere once upon a time. Yellow gloopy stuff and sure it came from a cycling website. Felt weird but worked.
 
Let me know how you find them... I'm still using a pair of Anker p20i buds. Cheap & cheerful but don't expect them to live for long in the garage moisture/sweat. I don't wear earphones riding outdoors...
What would be your use case for these then? I would already say I wouldn't buy these if it wasn't for when riding or running. Or are you saying if they are good, you might buy them for when riding?
 
What would be your use case for these then? I would already say I wouldn't buy these if it wasn't for when riding or running. Or are you saying if they are good, you might buy them for when riding?
I'm really thinking conduction for the comfort factor when on Zwift/etc with an IP55 rating & mic but maybe the ambient noise from drivechain/trainer will be too much. Buds hurt my ears after a few hours, I have some proper 'phones but again, they're not IP rated so only a matter of time until they die (Jabra Evolve 65). Also ears get pretty toasty racing under them!

Used to use old 3.5mm cabled headsets as a stopgap when I kept killing wireless buds (Taotronics & Anker) every 12/18 months with sweat/moisture. But changed handset a few months back and new one doesn't have a 3.5 jack :(
 
@Roady mainly cost, availability and cx. Cx bikes don't come with 1x di2, so I'd have had to buy something then swapped out the components. Sram axs is generally pretty good I've found with my boardman, and like before when I had everything 11s di2 I only need to buy one type of chain and cassette to have as spares and all my wheels and cassettes are now completely cross compatible.
 
Last edited:
maybe the ambient noise from drivechain/trainer will be too much.
I'm thinking it probably will. I'll give mine ago on the trainer, maybe tomorrow, and report back. I know when I use these for watching TV and I go and wash a dish in the sink, I can't hear the Shokz over the noise of the tap/spray. I'm a little concerned these ones might be worse for cycling with wind noise, but we'll see.
 
I had the shokz titanium's and had an issue out of waranty and got a reduced price upgrade to the open run pros. The sound was a good improvement agaisnt the titaniums. Indoors on the turbo the sound is ok its more than enough to take your mind off the pain on hard intervals thats until the fan is on max then the sound is a little faint but its still a help take your mind off it level. On the roads around where i am 90% of the time its fine unless theres a massive headwind or there is a lot of road traffic then it is more of a faint background. Though this is mostly with the headphone turned up to max volume, the apple watch moans at me but i assume its not so bad considering there not actually in my ears.
 
Back
Top Bottom