Road Cycling

The ideal would be that you produce the same power at a higher cadence yeah. The point of that being that you're a little more efficient and will put less strain on your muscles.

It also gives you more headroom so that when you do hit a significant grade you're not track standing ;)
 
I use Safari but I'll check it out!

From looking at the data more, I think I can safely say my cadence is on the low side.

During the longest climb of the ride, I was averaging around 300W, but my cadence was around 60-70.

It's not like I was taking things too steady either, as my time for the climb would put me in the top 16% on Strava (around 200th out of 1200)

Just to get my head around this......I would produce the same power using a lower cadence than I would at a higher cadence and lower gear (at the same speed)?

I wouldn't worry about trying to get cadence too high on climbs for the moment, Nairo Quintana always gets referenced at being around 70 on climbs and he's one of the best climbers in the world.

You could turn a hard gear with lower cadence and still produce the same power as turning an easier gear with faster cadence.

Power = torque x rpm, so you could get a lower torque with faster cadence (rpm) would be the same as a higher torque with lower cadence.
 
I use Safari but I'll check it out!

From looking at the data more, I think I can safely say my cadence is on the low side.

During the longest climb of the ride, I was averaging around 300W, but my cadence was around 60-70.

It's not like I was taking things too steady either, as my time for the climb would put me in the top 16% on Strava (around 200th out of 1200)

Just to get my head around this......I would produce the same power using a lower cadence than I would at a higher cadence and lower gear (at the same speed)?

Take speed out of the equation because road surface & weather variables can jaff that up.

But effectively you output the same power in different gears the only variable is cadence. Bit like driving a car along at 70mph, you can do it in 5th and your car will be pleased, it's more economical and less wearing on the engine. Equally you can redline it in 2nd the whole way but you'll burn through fuel and end up sat on the hard shoulder waiting for it too cool down :)

Spinners are winners :cool:
 
There was a famous cyclist who's coach had him up his cadence so that the muscular force required was reduced and the strain was instead moved to the cardiovascular system.
Moving the strain to the cardiovascular system in that case was very beneficial as his blood was pumped full of drugs :p
 
Got it.

In reference to the FTP test, I guess that's why the inbuilt Garmin test makes you do a fairly high effort before the actual 20 test (with a cool down in between).

Might give that a go sometime soon.
 
The whole 8min/20min testing and establishing FTP from a calculation "era" is on the verge of death I think (and slightly hope).

Power duration curve and TTE is worth reading up on especially now for someone just starting out with power.
 
Yep, that's exactly the reason.

This year I'll do a 20 min FTP test outdoors as there is one climb not too far away that's long enough. You'll get minor undulations outdoors which can be a little forgiving.

A Smart Turbo or WattBike is ideal though as it's more punishing but distractions are sparse.

I usually just look to 8/10/12 min power from road rides and approximate based on this. Your FTP number isn't really that useful and there are better served benchmarks :)
 
Ftp is a bit pointless for most stuff unless you do 25mile flat tts anyway. It can assist but so many other metrics that are more beneficial for different types of riding.
 
Managed to get new bike (Defy 1, '16) out the box and set up (virtually everything needed tightening/adjusting), got a few miles up the road and gears not indexed, also limit screws cutting off top and bottom gears, absolute joke of a PDI.

This co-incided with me changing to new cleats which never goes well as i get cramp if they're not spot on in the right place.

Still, i took a multitool out with me and under the lights of a McDonald's I set to work sorting stuff out.

Net result is that bike is borderline comfortable and feeling like its close to being my new best friend.

Managed a KOM on a little sprint on way home. Good omen!
 
Managed to get new bike (Defy 1, '16) out the box and set up (virtually everything needed tightening/adjusting), got a few miles up the road and gears not indexed, also limit screws cutting off top and bottom gears, absolute joke of a PDI.

This co-incided with me changing to new cleats which never goes well as i get cramp if they're not spot on in the right place.

Still, i took a multitool out with me and under the lights of a McDonald's I set to work sorting stuff out.

Net result is that bike is borderline comfortable and feeling like its close to being my new best friend.

Managed a KOM on a little sprint on way home. Good omen!

Don't know how Giant bikes are out of the box, but with better bikes they could be 95% there. But they won't be perfect. From my building, Voodoo, Carrera and Boardman are mostly spot on, but not always, and brakes need tweaking as well, centralising pads, or making sure v brake arms move exactly the same.

Why would you go for a ride without checking end stops & indexing yourself?
 
My new Cannondale Synapse 105 was poorly set up from Evans as well, I won't be using it until the weather improves so not a huge deal.

I've messed around with my gears on my old bike with mixed results. My new bike won't go on the biggest cog on the rear cassette, is this down to the table tension or limit screws?
 
My new Cannondale Synapse 105 was poorly set up from Evans as well, I won't be using it until the weather improves so not a huge deal.

I've messed around with my gears on my old bike with mixed results. My new bike won't go on the biggest cog on the rear cassette, is this down to the table tension or limit screws?

Limit screw.
 
My new Cannondale Synapse 105 was poorly set up from Evans as well, I won't be using it until the weather improves so not a huge deal.

I've messed around with my gears on my old bike with mixed results. My new bike won't go on the biggest cog on the rear cassette, is this down to the table tension or limit screws?

Get it fixed from a bike shop
 
Noticed my rear wheel looked a bit out of true when putting some lube on the chain this morning, gave the spokes a quick grab to see what the tension was like where the wheel was pulling to one side and then the spoke fell out with some of the rim still attached!

uDb6Bm0.jpg

Second problem I've had with my Planet X, first one resulted in the frame being sent back and a 4 week wait, I'm going to try and get a new wheel sent out prior to then receiving this one.. not happy!
 
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Roady, wasn't aware the TICKR could even be updated... bought mine this year so expect it's on the latest version, no notification from any apps or the E. Speaking of which the E's latest software came out recently, sorted the issue of my PM taking a while to register & zero offset on wake up.
Nor me! I'm quite tempted to update it when next prompted... But may leave it until the weekend in case it requires some fiddling!
Contacted Moon about my failed Nebula Rear.

Not quite sure how they refurbish an unservicable product but effectively it looks like the product is disposable after a year.
Bit annoying they didn't give you some vouchers or some discount/credit towards a replacement. But can understand where they're coming from regarding shipping, but to use it as an excuse to not cover a devices poor quality is a bit shifty!

Glad mine is going well and I didn't pay RRP for it! :cool:
GCN 5 hacks for perfect shifting video posted yesterday suggests for easy indexing after replacing a cable to shift so the chain is on the second smallest cassette ring, then shift on to the smallest cassette ring without turning the pedals and then release and secure the cable in the rear mech pulled tight with a 'natural' level of tension.

When you do turn the pedals it should jump to the smallest ring and not require a mammoth amount of indexing adjustment :cool:
Might try it next time I'm replacing cables! Never had much of an issue replacing RD cables anyway, front is more annoying!
I thought the whole point was to be fully fit to get the best possible result? ie. the maximum performance you could possibly give?
Possibly, but never totally rested - otherwise every training session using FTP will be hard. Not much point with a higher than necessary FTP as those sessions at 90/95% of FTP will be more like 105/110%! ;)
Was -8c out there this morning.
/weather update
Weather leaving Jamaica in the afternoon... 28 degrees.
Weather landing in Gatwick early morning yesterday... 2 degrees.
Had to de-ice the car and everything! FREEZING! :eek:

Commute in this morning was hard work. Check the suffer score! Twice what it normally is! :o

Then again a week of buffet food... Rum... Red Stripe and Chicken with no riding. Gained around 1kg (75.8kg this morning) :o
 
Bit annoying they didn't give you some vouchers or some discount/credit towards a replacement. But can understand where they're coming from regarding shipping, but to use it as an excuse to not cover a devices poor quality is a bit shifty!

Glad mine is going well and I didn't pay RRP for it! :cool:

Yeah some support would be nice. I technically got it as a gift but that doesn't get away from the fact it shouldn't be disposable after just a year of mild usage.
 
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