Road Cycling

Pretty sure yeah. 25mm tyre and there's about 2mm above the tyre and a few mm either side.

I had to stop on a climb before because a leave got stuck to the tyre and was making a noise every rotation between tyre and caliper.

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weird - I've got Ultegra brakes and Zonda's with 25mm contis on and zero clearance issues
 
there will be basically nothing to choose between centaur and potenza apart from tiny bits of weight difference here and there and maybe the quality of the parts.
Like the current 105 & Ultegra then really...! ;)

Makes more sense than the SCS solution, I reckon. I'd rather be limited by chainsets than wheelsets.
Have to agree and most of you are right about the SCS system being a bit of a nightmare for owners and Specialized themselves. I was aware of it when buying my Diverge, many others were not...!

Thankfully Specialized have moved away from it with the 2017 Diverge and Crux, using the now 'standard' 142mm hubs.

As for the next Ultegra, now than Shimano offer the control/battery/firmware upgrade for 6870 Di2 (see here), I'd buy 6870 when it gets reduced to make way for the new one.
I've seen 6870 DI2 shifters already going for not that high prices on the 'bay...

Your strava link shows 96% for me? Don't think you need update them.
Intensity based on your power data which Strava derives from your FTP (1 hour thresold power). So for a 1hr 16min ride @ 96% intensity you averaged under your perceived FTP.
Massively generalising and it is Strava data so would not worry too much or over-think it.
Don't worry too much about it... All it takes is a dodgy PWM offset ride and all of generic Strava power data will be screwed anyway! Doh! 100%+ intensity while commuting at @15mph lol :rolleyes:

I had to stop on a climb before because a leave got stuck to the tyre and was making a noise every rotation between tyre and caliper.
TOIGHT!

Had similar with my Giant and the Raceblade Long mudguard mounts. I remember stopping a couple of times from leaves getting stuck there, even had to stop after the start of a Sportive where we'd started on a freshly mowed grassy park and it was all jammed inbetween my wheel and frame. I found 25mm Continental tyres were slightly better than Mitchelin (more clearance) as the casing was slightly wider and not as 'high'.

Hmmmm... To fix or not to fix... GPS burp at the start of my commute earlier giving me a KOM nobody will ever get back...! ;)
 
weird - I've got Ultegra brakes and Zonda's with 25mm contis on and zero clearance issues


It isn't just a question of brakes and tyres, the distance between the pivot mount and the wheel axle contributes too. You can see in the picture his pads are right at the top of the slots suggesting a 'right' frame or fork
 
I'm looking to buy the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt Bundle.... wth is a RPM speed sensor for? Surely the cadence sensor would give you rpm and hence RPM speed?

EDIT: Derp derp derp. Thought it was a sensor for your cadence speed. It's just a speed sensor. Are these even necessary when riding with GPS?
 
I'm looking to buy the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt Bundle.... wth is a RPM speed sensor for? Surely the cadence sensor would give you rpm and hence RPM speed?

EDIT: Derp derp derp. Thought it was a sensor for your cadence speed. It's just a speed sensor. Are these even necessary when riding with GPS?
Not necessary no. Apps like Strava will just ignore it anyway and use your GPS speed. It can be useful for things like mtbing where GPS can go a bit funny inside the trees.
 
I'm looking to buy the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt Bundle.... wth is a RPM speed sensor for? Surely the cadence sensor would give you rpm and hence RPM speed?

EDIT: Derp derp derp. Thought it was a sensor for your cadence speed. It's just a speed sensor. Are these even necessary when riding with GPS?

No not for riding outside, but if you use a dumb turbo trainer then it can be useful
 
I've found using GPS for speed can sometimes result in auto-pausing if you are grinding up a tree-covered steep climb. Not the end of the world but can affect your segment time if you're trying to PB!:p
 
I've found using GPS for speed can sometimes result in auto-pausing if you are grinding up a tree-covered steep climb. Not the end of the world but can affect your segment time if you're trying to PB!:p
Bit demoralising, too! *Beep* AUTO PAUSED. Yeah? Screw you, Garmin, you want to have a go at it?
 
I have never been going THAT slow that my Garmin auto-pauses.... Possibly because it is not brave enough to unleash such humiliation on me and have itself bounced down the road :p
 
I have never been going THAT slow that my Garmin auto-pauses.... Possibly because it is not brave enough to unleash such humiliation on me and have itself bounced down the road :p

Back in the day when I used to have a Garmin ( ;) ) you could actually adjust the auto-pause speed, I think the default is about 4/5mph? which in a sustained steep grade isn't uncommon. Much slower though and you might as well be walking :D
 
Mine is set to 2mph auto-pause but the GPS can be less accurate than a wheel sensor in some cases hence the "you are doing 0mph, I'm auto-pausing" even when you are moving. :mad:
 
I always turn off auto-pause. Ride times count from the moment you leave until you get home again - if you stop for a rest the time is counted.
 
Not using auto-pause when you encounter many traffic lights results in an average speed drop, depression and shrinkage of ePeen.:D
 
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