Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
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OK, new bike arrived! Question time:
Rear gears: at top of gears there is a clear plastic sphere between the top gear and bike forks. When free wheeling this is causing a high pitched whiche (think mosquito sounding!). I can see there are 3 clips holding this on and when i unclip one, it stops the noise, but obviously it should have all attached.
Have you seen/heard this before? How to rectify?
Rear gears: when the bike is in either of the 2 lowest gears there is a loud clicking noise from there.
How to rectify?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Rear gears: at top of gears there is a clear plastic sphere between the top gear and bike forks. When free wheeling this is causing a high pitched whiche (think mosquito sounding!). I can see there are 3 clips holding this on and when i unclip one, it stops the noise, but obviously it should have all attached.
Have you seen/heard this before? How to rectify?
Rear gears: when the bike is in either of the 2 lowest gears there is a loud clicking noise from there.
How to rectify?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Do you mean the plastic disc is between the largest cog of the cassette and the spokes? If so then it's there to prevent the chain dropping off into the spokes, but if your gears are properly setup then that wont happen. What I'm trying to say is it's useless and can be removed but you'll need to proper tools to do so. (cassette lockring tool and a chainwhip)
If the plastic is between the smallest cog and the frame then it's most likely packaging so can be removed and binned.
With the gears clicking, you'll notice a small barrel adjuster on the rear mech as the cable goes in. Put the bike into whichever gear is making the noise, pedal and twiddle the adjuster a bit until it shuts up. This may take three hands/two people to do unless you have a stand to work on the bike.
It's worth noting that since your issue is in the lowest gears then the limit screw may also need adjusting. L for low and H for high.
If the plastic is between the smallest cog and the frame then it's most likely packaging so can be removed and binned.
With the gears clicking, you'll notice a small barrel adjuster on the rear mech as the cable goes in. Put the bike into whichever gear is making the noise, pedal and twiddle the adjuster a bit until it shuts up. This may take three hands/two people to do unless you have a stand to work on the bike.
It's worth noting that since your issue is in the lowest gears then the limit screw may also need adjusting. L for low and H for high.
Told a mate to do this and he somehow royally screwed up his indexing
Soldato
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Sounds more like a front trim issue if it's the two smallest cogs on the rear.
Soldato
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lol dork disc... I've heard this called many things!
Soldato
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Anyone fancy this next year?
https://www.hauteroute.org/events/overview/ventoux-2017
I am fat, unfit and forgotten how to pedal, but I figure giving myself an aim would be one way of trying to not kill myself.
https://www.hauteroute.org/events/overview/ventoux-2017
I am fat, unfit and forgotten how to pedal, but I figure giving myself an aim would be one way of trying to not kill myself.
You're wrong.
As someone who also seems to get through chains very quickly I'd instead put my money on the fact that he uses a chain checker that is calibrated heavily on the cautious side.That's far too quick for a chain to wearDo have to wonder what you do to them? Clean them with sand?
Soldato
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- 29 Dec 2004
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- Shepley
Finally getting round to sorting out my single ring Di2 setup for my TT bike. Hopefully up there for budget Di2 builds:
1x left TT shifter to control the rear mech (£30) (cheaper than the right one individually as single ring users always keep the right one)
1x rear mech (£90)
2x cables (£20)
1x 3 port junction box (£40)
1x battery (£50)
________
£230 - happy with that! I'm going to make a chain catcher out of aluminium but in the meantime will use the old front mech with a longer limit screw to fix it in the big ring position for now. Hopefully this all works as planned as I'm riding the fast Hull course on Sunday...
That's a fairly bold assertion without anything other to go on than a "loud clicking noise"! It could easily be rubbing the inner plate of the front mech.
It's unlikely to be a limit screw issue if it shifts into the two biggest sprockets, but I reckon it'll be solved by a combination of indexing and B screw adjustment.
1x left TT shifter to control the rear mech (£30) (cheaper than the right one individually as single ring users always keep the right one)
1x rear mech (£90)
2x cables (£20)
1x 3 port junction box (£40)
1x battery (£50)
________
£230 - happy with that! I'm going to make a chain catcher out of aluminium but in the meantime will use the old front mech with a longer limit screw to fix it in the big ring position for now. Hopefully this all works as planned as I'm riding the fast Hull course on Sunday...
That's a fairly bold assertion without anything other to go on than a "loud clicking noise"! It could easily be rubbing the inner plate of the front mech.
It's unlikely to be a limit screw issue if it shifts into the two biggest sprockets, but I reckon it'll be solved by a combination of indexing and B screw adjustment.
Yeah, it's more likely to be rubbing on the front than anything to do with the limit screw at the rear. The limit screw, as the name suggests, effects the limits of the derailleur - if it's in the 2nd bottom gear and can change down another gear it's not at the limit.
Why not just buy a cheap superstar chain checker? Tbh on a TT I think it's highly unlikely you'd ever lose the chain.
Soldato
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Shame I missed it but last night there was a very busy KISS race. CAT A won by none other than Ian Bibby! Big kudos to our own @One More Solo for coming towards the top of the busy field in B. Results to be confirmed but looks a damn tough race with loads of guys I've ridden with before in B getting their results flagged for being 'outside of category limits' (being over 4w/kg which is CAT A territory).
I'm fairly sure it's my 'ride all conditions' mentality along with not cleaning them regularly enough. But I'm also using cheaper chains (SRAM PC1130) so it doesn't bother me too much.
How many of you follow the general advice to change a cassette every second chain? For me that'd be 2 cassettes a year!
When buying a wheelset you don't tend to find them fitted.
Local rider I know did the Haute Route Pyrenees last year, he's a mountain goat and found it tough - https://www.strava.com/athletes/204...rval_type=week&chart_type=miles&year_offset=0
Sand and the tears of my rivals of course.That's far too quick for a chain to wear
I'm fairly sure it's my 'ride all conditions' mentality along with not cleaning them regularly enough. But I'm also using cheaper chains (SRAM PC1130) so it doesn't bother me too much.
How many of you follow the general advice to change a cassette every second chain? For me that'd be 2 cassettes a year!
As mentioned, the 'pizza plate' is there to protect your wheel from a badly adjusted rear mech throwing the chain into the spokes. Shouldn't happen with a correctly adjusted/aligned rear derailleur. I think most bikes have to be supplied with them 'by law' when from a shop... Same could be said of a bell, pedal and wheel reflectors which you may also have or been supplied with. If they're fitted most people remove them.
When buying a wheelset you don't tend to find them fitted.
I'd love to but know I'm nowhere near the fitness required at the moment, nevermind next year when I'll be riding less with junior here!
Local rider I know did the Haute Route Pyrenees last year, he's a mountain goat and found it tough - https://www.strava.com/athletes/204...rval_type=week&chart_type=miles&year_offset=0
He's only wrong if @ivrytwr3 is correct with his diagnosis of the noise coming from the rear. Feel free to display your reasoning so you don't sound like a complete d*ck. (keep it nice in here, we all help each other out!)
As we all know these noises can sound like they're coming from anywhere! Especially without much experience, a stand or even a second set of ears to verify.
To be honest, as he's not complained about it not shifting into gear it's not going to be a limit screw. These noises are usually all alignment based but with it being a new bike and the noise disappearing when freewheeling with the pizza plate having one tab unclipped, my guess would be that the pizza plate is misfitted/deformed/bent and rubbing the cassette/chain as it's not sitting flush with the spokes or is too wide for the particular cassette/frame clearance. It's quite often these things get knocked when bikes are transported too.
If it's indexed ok and the rear is shifting fine then we all know the noise is more likely to be coming from the FD, especially in the 'top' gears (assuming high) as the shop build/alignment is all with new parts pre any cable stretch.
To be honest @ivrytwr3 might be quite a new rider and not even aware of trim on most FD's. He might not even be fully engaging the FD when changing from low to high chainring... Too many variables!
There's only one way to decide this... FIGHT![/harry hill]
How very dare you!
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Which one do you use and @Roady? I use a Park Tool chain checker on SRAM PC1130s and I generally get 3500-4000 miles.
I use a basic Wiggle Lifeline one. My current chain is just coming up to 1800 miles and the .75% drops into about half of the links that I tried so its replacement is waiting to go on. I could probably get more life out of my chains but it saves having to swap out cassettes and it also means that if it takes me a few weeks to get round to doing it there isn't much of an issue.
I also never spend more than a tenner on a chain so it makes very little difference to me how long they last.
Whoops missed Robs post before!
I use the Park Tools one. I have thought for a while that maybe my tool was just bent slightly so although I was changing chains at 0.75 they where lower worn. Last couple I've worn them until almost 1mm before changing and not noticed much difference. Maybe only a really minor increase in noise towards the end.
KMC X11 which came with my Diverge did 1800 miles and removed it in January after it got quite rusty from road salts and picked up a sticky link or two. Replacement SRAM PC1130 did around 50 miles less before changing in June after I broke a Quicklink and one of the side plates was bent elsewhere on the chain. Maybe would've gone a bit further with it but as I had picked up both new chains for ~£22 in a Wiggle sale I just replaced it. Typical I should've bought several of the at the crazy low price as they've not been in stock much since and always over £13.
I'm the same as Rob really, I consider chains a consumable and hopefully that means I don't need to change cassettes 'every second chain' as most guides say. Yet ask any LBS and they'll laugh at you! But also without a reliable way to measure wear on a cassette... Who knows! Chains are cheaper!
The Cassette on my Diverge has done ~4500 miles since new but has always been noisy. I've put it down to 105 components and the particular setup on the bike as several other Diverge owners commenting the same online. Not sure if its the SCS maybe causing more chain rub/stretch (as it's always been quite particular with indexing), the Praxis rings (Powertap rebranded in my case) causing more rub than normal Shimano rings or something else (not like there is much else to cause noise). Obviously changing cassette and RD to Ultegra is an easy option as there's loads of good discounts/deals on 6800 at the moment.
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Just to add I'm slack when it comes to chain cleaning (slack basically meaning I don't do it beyond a wipe down and re-lube) but I'm seeing about 500 miles more from my chains when using dry lube vs wet on the good weather bike. Next chain on the winter machine I'm going to try the same and just do a quick wipe down and re apply after every wet ride.
Had a lovely ride last night. Beautiful sunset, farmers out working on the fields and cool night air. I'd actually forgotten just how much I enjoy my rides as the sun goes down. Unfortunately my front Lezyne light has gone the same way as my rear with really poor run times. The <50% light came on after less than half an hour when running it on steady 300LM mode (max is 400LM). CRC refunded them both when the rear packed up and didn't want me to return them so I've been continuing to use the front one. I'll be fitting the Solarstorm on the winter bike and the Lezyne will probably still do me as a backup light but that is 4 for 4 now on Lezyne products that I've been initially pleased with and then let down within a year.
Had a lovely ride last night. Beautiful sunset, farmers out working on the fields and cool night air. I'd actually forgotten just how much I enjoy my rides as the sun goes down. Unfortunately my front Lezyne light has gone the same way as my rear with really poor run times. The <50% light came on after less than half an hour when running it on steady 300LM mode (max is 400LM). CRC refunded them both when the rear packed up and didn't want me to return them so I've been continuing to use the front one. I'll be fitting the Solarstorm on the winter bike and the Lezyne will probably still do me as a backup light but that is 4 for 4 now on Lezyne products that I've been initially pleased with and then let down within a year.