Road Cycling

Soldato
Joined
11 Jun 2013
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I’m overhauling my winter bike rather than sending it to my LBS as usual and I was feeling very proud of myself having put on a new crankset, front mech, 2 brake cables and the rear mech cable. But the front one doesn’t want to play. It’s a Scott Speedster with intenal routing for this part and I’m trying to re-use the old outer as it’s still in decent condition. But I can’t get the new inner through the outer; it just stops somewhere inside the frame part of the outer. Gah!!
 
Soldato
Joined
11 Jun 2013
Posts
2,632
I’m overhauling my winter bike rather than sending it to my LBS as usual and I was feeling very proud of myself having put on a new crankset, front mech, 2 brake cables and the rear mech cable. But the front one doesn’t want to play. It’s a Scott Speedster with intenal routing for this part and I’m trying to re-use the old outer as it’s still in decent condition. But I can’t get the new inner through the outer; it just stops somewhere inside the frame part of the outer. Gah!!

Got there eventually with a new outer and some Anglo Saxon. New question - my right shifter doesn’t always catch when going to a smaller rear cog so what needs some WD40?
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Oct 2006
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5,386
There's very little chance of even getting 120psi out of that. Most mini pump claims are quite bold but I'd rather it work than look nice. Barbieri is some cheapo brand that the likes of Planet X and Ribble sale.
 
Soldato
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25 Mar 2008
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9,180
There's very little chance of even getting 120psi out of that. Most mini pump claims are quite bold but I'd rather it work than look nice. Barbieri is some cheapo brand that the likes of Planet X and Ribble sale.
Meh. It'll get me home if the 2 co₂ cannisters aren't enough, and it's small enough to fit in my jersey pocket bag which the Toppeak and others in that format won't. There's an abundance of snobbery in cycling already so I'm not going to add to it over £10-£20 pumps and their branding.
 
Soldato
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Haha. First time I've heard of Topeak being associated with snobbery. I fit the Topeak pump in a Lezyne Caddy bag just fine. I hope the Barbieri pump holds up for you.

Presumably it was near enough £15 once you added the PX postage charge anyway.
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Mar 2008
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9,180
Haha. First time I've heard of Topeak being associated with snobbery. I fit the Topeak pump in a Lezyne Caddy bag just fine. I hope the Barbieri pump holds up for you.

Presumably it was near enough £15 once you added the PX postage charge anyway.
In a Lezyne Caddy? Really?

And never underestimate the potential for snobbery!
 
Soldato
Joined
24 Jul 2003
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Location
floating down the Liffey
Any mini-pump without a hose is useless in my opinion. You'll look like you're furiously giving your bike pleasure trying to achieve 60psi with that thing.:D

If you've not already bought one, I've got a spare I'll post you in exchange for £5 to a charity of your choice.

Ah thanks, but I already ordered one.

If it turns out not to be the right thing I may take you up on the offer, cheers!
 
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Soldato
Joined
23 Nov 2004
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10,646
Did my first Douglas in a while since I've been off all week.

Brutally windy all day except for the tailwind at the fast part.

Pretty amazing that one guy was off the front from Muirkirk to about a mile away from the sprint at Lesmahagow.

Also proves that steady power wins over 5 people working out of 20. One guy goes through at 40mph then people hide. If we all did a nice steady turn and got 20 working then he would have been caught sharpish.


https://strava.app.link/lSmt86mjeZ
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
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Hereford
https://www.strava.com/activities/2629359089

After fitting the 50/34 saturday I had the chance to ride sunday. Legs felt heavy so my plan of Gospel pass was put in doubt. When the heavens opened as I was starting my way up I decided to take a different, not as long climb through to Craswell (still a damn long one!). Still tough and similar to Gospel, but only really 2 main parts of it. Glad I had my packable but by the time I was 3/4 the way up the rain had stopped and the sun came out. Was fairly cooked by then, so the next couple of ramps at Craswell really sapped my strength. Amazing scenery and really good roads around Michaelchurch helped things, but so many horse riders around and traffic on singletrack had to slow/stop loads. Really enjoyed the ride back, even with a few wrong turns. I kept the effort fairly z2/z3 on the ride out & back with efforts/sustained power on the climbs so legs felt pretty good afterwards. Really strange riding without power though... I will hunt down a Stages/4iiii as soon as possible, as pacing the climbs I found really horrible - my HR seems really slow to react, slower than I remember, so I ride hard, think I can sustain it, then realise I'm blowing up! Not something I generally find with riding to power. Maybe the extra few KG I'm carrying and the lack of hilly riding I've done really contributed to this, even with the recent feeling of form and slight bump in FTP. TLDR; HTFU Roady.

Guy I 'know' from Zwift was riding a Sportive the same day. He messaged me the night before asking for chip shop recommendations as was staying in a Travellodge about 3 miles from my house! FFS! If I'd have known I'd have ridden it with him and met him for a beer, but didn't get back from the Safari park until late... Brutal ride/route, maybe I'll do it next year. :cool:

Mixed bag of weather this weekend means club ride on saturday is off as someone wants to go to the safari park... Have been given the green light to go out on sunday instead (weather still ok, just not as good as saturday). Part of me wants to change BB/cranks so I've got lower gearing to attempt Gospel Pass north side again, just to cross it off after the failure/abandon there during the really hot weather. I'm utterly convinced I now have the fitness and power to get up there, especially with lower gearing. Although in a bit of a mindset - to cross it off without changing crankset.

Replacement Wheelsmfg BB30 came yesterday. Have confirmed sizing is different to the PF30 (peace of mind!) and will be fitting it this weekend. Probably going to also buy new pedals (opportunity to replace ~3 year old keo's & I know I've not removed existing from my Praxis cranks for far too long) and going to a new Ultegra R8000 cassette too (along with chain change) as I'm changing chainrings (new R8000 crankset). Don't have the cassette/pedals ready so will just use existing for now but need to change before causing too much wear on new chainrings. As I'm going from 53/39 to 50/34 considering going for a 28t as opposed to my usual 32t. Really don't think I'll need the 32t like I have done on the current 53/39 and previous 52/36.
Fitted BB & cranks on saturday. Took around 1 hr 20 mins. Plenty of practice now lol. Wheelsmfg BB30 Went in a dream, didn't even need any spacers (which came with the BB, nor those Specialized I ordered...). Although how do you tell for sure? The dust cover over each bearing, the crank spindle through, then the R8000 NDS crank on leaving around 2-3mm thread 'gap' from the top of the crank spindle to top of pedal body (internal). No gap between crank/dust cover/BB either side externally. Looked fine for me, but what's recommended!? Chainline is good, barely a tweak needed to eliminate rub from the previous cranks so fairly sure the rings are in the right place.

Wheelmfg 'instructions' say 'no spacers needed' or to 'refer to your crankset instructions for exact crank spindle spacers and wave washer placement'. Shimano documents I found have zero info about even dust covers, never-mind spacers/recommendations. As I'm not using any spacers or wave washers is that ok!? Preload ok on the bearings just by me pressing the two together and fitting crankarm?

Also the plastic dust cap thing, anyone bother with tightening it up with these, or is finger tight enough to keep it in place? Actually, are you meant to add pressure to the crank with it, before tightening the bolts, then back it off? Like a Topcap & stem?

Maybe this image will help explain things...

GxS1kTZl.png.jpg

I managed to drop part of the compressor into my steerer and it got stuck near my fork. I spent a long time trying to fish it out with a coat-hanger. Eventually I rescued it but I had damaged it with all the poking and now it won't thread onto the other end.:(
Argh, what a 'mare! I'd have been paranoid about damaging the forks! Must be soft alloy if you damaged it that easily. :(

picture was a single rear tyre, and the thread bare patches extend for ~25% discontinuous sections of sidewall ... treated kindly and no sliding or significant lock-ups.
(I wouldn't be skilled enough to slide on a sidewall )
I did wonder about over-inflation since sidewall being thinner might be stressed more, or, not having used the bike for maybe 2 months over winter.
... maybe I'll ring the michelin help line

edit: its like centre band is de-laminating / untsticking

edit : closer up
48551268422_cb2ea2c607_o_d.jpg

edit2: looks like it maybe a known failure mode, I have the pink speckles too.
michelin pro4 endurance failure
Wow yeah, it does look like that from that close up. Although almost looks as though it's melted?! The wear seems to be outside-in, which would be the reverse to wear...? You've not used it on a wheel-on turbo with burning rubber smells have you?

Got there eventually with a new outer and some Anglo Saxon. New question - my right shifter doesn’t always catch when going to a smaller rear cog so what needs some WD40?
Pivots on the RD, spray some in all of them to free things up. Clear gunk from the internal spring too. It can all get gunked up, but I wouldn't recommend soaking the thing in degreaser. Maybe clear what you can with a light spray of degreaser and then use a stiff brush to clear what you can. I'd tend to use GT85 rather than WD40 though.

In a Lezyne Caddy? Really?

And never underestimate the potential for snobbery!
Lezyne pump here in a Lezyne caddy. Living the dream.

Peasants. :D ;)
 
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Soldato
Joined
23 Nov 2004
Posts
10,646
@Roady hand tight is fine for shimano. You're just preloading the bearings. The tool is only 40mm round plastic with a knurled edge so you don't overtighten it.

Due to the way shimano works you get a bit of margin for error and I've never had to fit spacers when using a wheelsmfg bb.

Read your post properly, you'd probabaly struggle to get it nipped fully with fingers. With the mtb one I've used a 6mm and a 5mm Allen key to turn it but the road one isn't fully open.
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
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8,432
Location
Hereford
@Roady hand tight is fine for shimano. You're just preloading the bearings. The tool is only 40mm round plastic with a knurled edge so you don't overtighten it.

Due to the way shimano works you get a bit of margin for error and I've never had to fit spacers when using a wheelsmfg bb.

Read your post properly, you'd probabaly struggle to get it nipped fully with fingers. With the mtb one I've used a 6mm and a 5mm Allen key to turn it but the road one isn't fully open.
Yeah I'll grab one of those tool thingys. From what you're saying I should be tightening it to preload before clamping the crankarm. The way I fitted it, I'd already clamped the crankarm before fitting the thingy on top just as like a dust cover. But it does more than that! ;)

Thanks for the pointer about Wheelsmfg spacers. Really doesn't think/read like it needs any. Just glad I only paid £6 delivered for the special spacers for the PF30 and Specialized OSBB (before I then ordered the BB30!), rather than the £18-20 they should've been! :rolleyes:

Thanks! Hadn't spotted a 4iiii around that price. But looks like I'm going the Stages route as there's lots of them going for sub 200 on the 'bay. Can validate/calibrate against my turbo trainer so not too worried about buying S/H.
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Feb 2004
Posts
18,157
Location
Hampshire
Bad luck tonight, slow puncture about half hour into my ride, changed it up nothing I could feel or see in the tyre. Rode another mile or so and goes down again, and no more tubes...

Put the original back in but started going down quickly. Some bloke pulled over and gave me a puncture repair kit but think it was a good few years old. The glue was nigh on hopeless so wouldn't seal.

Friends were passing on their way to cx training and gave me a proper pump and then a lift. Managed to get it sealed in the end with copious amounts of glue and started my ride home. Got about 2/3rd of the way and started to go down again so pumped it up a few times to get me close enough to walk home and change to some new tubes.
 
Soldato
Joined
22 Oct 2005
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2,801
Location
Moving...
I start my commute at just after 6am which is roughly the same time as the sun rises atm. I'm happy enough that I can see where I'm going in the semi-darkness, but I'm not confident that others can see me. I've already got a rear light and I'm thinking of getting a front 'be seen' light, but I was wondering if there's much point - I'm not keen on riding in the dark, and there's probably not many days left between now and it being properly dark at that time of day. Thoughts?
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Oct 2006
Posts
5,386
I start my commute at just after 6am which is roughly the same time as the sun rises atm. I'm happy enough that I can see where I'm going in the semi-darkness, but I'm not confident that others can see me. I've already got a rear light and I'm thinking of getting a front 'be seen' light, but I was wondering if there's much point - I'm not keen on riding in the dark, and there's probably not many days left between now and it being properly dark at that time of day. Thoughts?
Yes. Get one. Just after 6am is still pretty dark as the sun is only just rising.
 
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