Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Been getting a couple of Zwift races under my belt to try and get some legs back - but really lacking some solid outdoor miles so they're a bit of a substitute more than anything else. Just no time! Need to do something epic soon to really get the summer started...
After some opinions and insight...
Our home insurance (with AXA) went up by £30 this year which the bikes are on. Up to £246 pa so likely very low compared with most of you on here - I expect! We're on probably one of the lowest bands in the country... Being right next to the SAS camp with lots of MP's in police cars regularly patrolling has it's uses!
Currently has 3 bikes nominated on it, £2500 for my Diverge, turbo bike £350, other halfs commuter £700. Think those last 2 are the wrong way around - but her commuter is higher risk so really not an issue. Garage where they're kept has a £3000 'contents' cover (which doesn't cover bikes, so they're separate). I can't easily tell how much we're paying for the 3 bikes, but would judge it's less than £10-15 a month?
We always have a debate when it comes to cost of bikes on the policy, my other half used to be an insurance broker (car & home) so tends to have it nailed down & researched for the best deals. She still has a few contacts and knows how to 'talk the talk' to get good rates. But our discussions are always pretty awkward when it comes to 'value'. I feel all of our bikes have really 'paid their dues' I've generally argued to insure them for what we paid for them, rather than what they're 'worth' - how do you all do yours...? Specifically older bikes (pre-lockdown) which you've upgraded and the base models have drastically increased in value?!
My argument is - as can only 'prove' what we paid for them with receipts which an insurer would pay out against, rather than current market rate of comparable bikes. How can you 'prove' the worth of something if you paid £1750 for it, it's aged, yet the model has changed and the current 'replacement' is £4500 - when I only paid £1750 enough years ago it should have depreciated to almost nothing. The insurer will not want to pay out more which you can't 'prove' just because the market has gone up in value?! Just doesn't make sense to me otherwise...! Equally, if I had £2500 now I wouldn't be scratching around for another 2k to buy another Diverge, I would quite happily find a 'replacement' bike at that value.
My Zwift frame did 4-5 years of commuting and leisure before being Zwift only, while costing me £900 originally in 2014, then got warranty frame replaced in 2022. The current replacement comparable (Defy 1) would be £3200! My Diverge cost me £1750 but has a bunch of upgrades - probably need to up the value on it really - but again consider as I commute its cost has mostly been covered the last 6 years by not running a second car (see below). Replacement would be £4200! Other halfs commuter again, 7-8 years old and around £350-400 original cost. Replacement now around £600-700.
My thinking on why kinda 'under insuring' (is that a thing?) our bikes is valid - obviously plus point keeps the renewal and premium value down. We've basically used our bikes for (me 95%, her 75%) of our commutes the last ~10 years. This has meant keeping the current 'family car' for 12 years and being able to just have 1 car (a Fiesta Zetec S at that, nothing fancy or expensive!). Being originally mine, it's a 13 year old car if it was used for work, it would've got traded in probably 5-6 years ago and we also would've kept the other halfs she sold 7-8 years ago too. So in my mind, running a single old family car which does 4-5000 miles at most a year, long past it's trade in time when it was worth anything (we'll keep it until it dies), saves us easily 3-4000 a year in maintenance, running costs and fuel of double that mileage by using bikes. So that 'offset' against our bikes I can easily justify 'losing' 1-2000 a year and still be quids in. Does that make sense? So in my mind, once each of our bikes hit 2 or 3 years old, the cost they've saved against their value is basically null. Once over 4-5 years old easy to just 'get another' with any payout to assist (if covered) and something happened, regardless of the market values.
Great riding and well done, certainly on a hybrid! You'll find a road bike quite a bit faster - certainly for road use!
Great price, postage quite cheap too (£1.99) which is what they normally sting you with things like this. Didn't get some as I'm well stocked and tend to stick to what I know (High5).As a heads up, i'm a fan of hydration tablets during warmer months, and these are a bargain!
ORS Hydration – 24 Blackcurrant Tablets
O.R.S Hydration Tablets are a mix of electrolytes combined with a low-calorie small dose of glucose which is not only proven to be the fastest way to restore a healthy level of hydration but it also keeps you hydrated for longer than water alone. Formulated by pharmacists Natural Flavours...pharmacy4you.co.uk
After some opinions and insight...
Our home insurance (with AXA) went up by £30 this year which the bikes are on. Up to £246 pa so likely very low compared with most of you on here - I expect! We're on probably one of the lowest bands in the country... Being right next to the SAS camp with lots of MP's in police cars regularly patrolling has it's uses!
Currently has 3 bikes nominated on it, £2500 for my Diverge, turbo bike £350, other halfs commuter £700. Think those last 2 are the wrong way around - but her commuter is higher risk so really not an issue. Garage where they're kept has a £3000 'contents' cover (which doesn't cover bikes, so they're separate). I can't easily tell how much we're paying for the 3 bikes, but would judge it's less than £10-15 a month?
We always have a debate when it comes to cost of bikes on the policy, my other half used to be an insurance broker (car & home) so tends to have it nailed down & researched for the best deals. She still has a few contacts and knows how to 'talk the talk' to get good rates. But our discussions are always pretty awkward when it comes to 'value'. I feel all of our bikes have really 'paid their dues' I've generally argued to insure them for what we paid for them, rather than what they're 'worth' - how do you all do yours...? Specifically older bikes (pre-lockdown) which you've upgraded and the base models have drastically increased in value?!
My argument is - as can only 'prove' what we paid for them with receipts which an insurer would pay out against, rather than current market rate of comparable bikes. How can you 'prove' the worth of something if you paid £1750 for it, it's aged, yet the model has changed and the current 'replacement' is £4500 - when I only paid £1750 enough years ago it should have depreciated to almost nothing. The insurer will not want to pay out more which you can't 'prove' just because the market has gone up in value?! Just doesn't make sense to me otherwise...! Equally, if I had £2500 now I wouldn't be scratching around for another 2k to buy another Diverge, I would quite happily find a 'replacement' bike at that value.
My Zwift frame did 4-5 years of commuting and leisure before being Zwift only, while costing me £900 originally in 2014, then got warranty frame replaced in 2022. The current replacement comparable (Defy 1) would be £3200! My Diverge cost me £1750 but has a bunch of upgrades - probably need to up the value on it really - but again consider as I commute its cost has mostly been covered the last 6 years by not running a second car (see below). Replacement would be £4200! Other halfs commuter again, 7-8 years old and around £350-400 original cost. Replacement now around £600-700.
My thinking on why kinda 'under insuring' (is that a thing?) our bikes is valid - obviously plus point keeps the renewal and premium value down. We've basically used our bikes for (me 95%, her 75%) of our commutes the last ~10 years. This has meant keeping the current 'family car' for 12 years and being able to just have 1 car (a Fiesta Zetec S at that, nothing fancy or expensive!). Being originally mine, it's a 13 year old car if it was used for work, it would've got traded in probably 5-6 years ago and we also would've kept the other halfs she sold 7-8 years ago too. So in my mind, running a single old family car which does 4-5000 miles at most a year, long past it's trade in time when it was worth anything (we'll keep it until it dies), saves us easily 3-4000 a year in maintenance, running costs and fuel of double that mileage by using bikes. So that 'offset' against our bikes I can easily justify 'losing' 1-2000 a year and still be quids in. Does that make sense? So in my mind, once each of our bikes hit 2 or 3 years old, the cost they've saved against their value is basically null. Once over 4-5 years old easy to just 'get another' with any payout to assist (if covered) and something happened, regardless of the market values.
Soldato
Someone pointed out to me I might need to replace some bibs (you know, when you start getting that 'window to your crack')
I kind of think they are all much the same. You get some new ones and they're the most comfortable because they're new... then they start to wear, you get some new ones... and they become your favs... because they're new...
I've had Castelli, Lecol, Rapha and Stolen Goat. My favs at the minute are the SG, but guess what, they're the newest. Any recommendations on a brand I should try? I've heard good things about Assos.
I kind of think they are all much the same. You get some new ones and they're the most comfortable because they're new... then they start to wear, you get some new ones... and they become your favs... because they're new...
I've had Castelli, Lecol, Rapha and Stolen Goat. My favs at the minute are the SG, but guess what, they're the newest. Any recommendations on a brand I should try? I've heard good things about Assos.
@Roady
unless you have new-for-old it probably isnt worth insuring stuff once it's past a couple of years old.
I dont actually insure mine at all - anything over 4 figures lives inside the house and is never left out of my sight anywhere that isnt secure. My work bike when that was a thing had a kind of cultivated shabbiness that meant something else always looked more nickable. They're all old now anyway and there's much shinier things for people to bother nicking.
unless you have new-for-old it probably isnt worth insuring stuff once it's past a couple of years old.
I dont actually insure mine at all - anything over 4 figures lives inside the house and is never left out of my sight anywhere that isnt secure. My work bike when that was a thing had a kind of cultivated shabbiness that meant something else always looked more nickable. They're all old now anyway and there's much shinier things for people to bother nicking.
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I was more wanting it for crash replacement (and maybe for theft replacement while riding these days...) Plus public liability (I know you can get this at a decent price standalone, or included in house insurance anyway).
Soldato
Decent options from the looks of it, 48/35 would have been better though. 40 bars and 21/28 wheels is good though. Power meter option, weight and colours another plus. They'll sell well no doubt.
Gone ribble ultra slr with enve after trying setup in store. Bit risky given the weight although in my area I never normally go much above 50ft per mile unless I go looking for it. Got some very flat areas as well. Looking at second hand addict rc and supersix evo for winter, high wind and any hilly days. The 105 supersix looks almost good value. Swap of the cassette, chain and rear mech then just a narrower bar with a 120 stem. Just some light cheap wheels then as I belive default is something stupid like 2kg.
Soldato
May not be to your level, but i've been a fan of Siroko stuff and bought a few of their jerseys in Spain. Have read good things on their shorts too but a bit pricey for my levels.
Bib Shorts i've generally gone for Danish Endurance from Amazon. They seem ok but not sure how well they'd scale up to longer rides. Probably cheap enough for a punt.
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Soldato
Postage doesn't matter as much when you buy 10 tubes
Figured it works out around 12p per tablet which is very decent and not matched by anything else i've found. Only negative being it's sometimes nice for a more carb based drink for rides.I sent myself a challenge on Monday to make July my "biggest" month for all activities of the year. It didn't feel like i'd done very much, especially with running. Turns out my biggest running month was May with only 48 miles (that used to be classed as a decent week!) So that's an easy victory.
However it turns out i did 185 miles in February cycling. Which will be considerably tougher to beat. Hadn't really thought i'd had any month over 100! Think it coincided with getting annoying at my lack of running and wanting to get my fitness back, whilst also getting back into Zwift.
Luckily i get the full 31 days for July
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The Mille GT Bib Shorts for around £120 are really good. They are Assos' entry-level shorts but I find they are better than my Rapha and Castelli offerings. There was a Strava code for 15% off last month which you may have bagged.
I've got Rapha, Lecol, Castelli, Assos and Gore.
I always reach for the Assos ones first. In terms of what I like the most... Assos >>>> Castelli / Lecol >> Rapha >>>>>>> Gore (but my gore ones are the wrong size)
edit: I should add that I obviously don't cycle as much as you (a man can dream though) so my opinion should be taken with a pinch of salt.
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Associate
I just had my renewal from wiggle and the price hasn't changed and they have changed there policy so its now new for old for life. I also added my zipp 303's to the bike and it didn't increase my premium. I moved to Wiggle a year ago as it was with cycleplan previously and they wanted to increase it by 20%
Soldato
Hmm, I do pretty much all available challenges, but I can't see this. Do you happen to have the code about at all?
Rapha are my favourite, got 25% off bib shorts curently. Assos are great too. Find Castelli are too thin in the pad and too Italian for my thighs.... LeCol are comfy but their pad is too padded at the front I've found. Generally just stick with Rapha these days, never had any discomfort with them, got a few pairs that are 5-6 years old and still going, albeit like you say they're not as comfy on a long ride.
Soldato
Took me a few years to dare to spend so much on bibs as a pair of Castelli with the Progetto X2 (?) pad, but they were great for extra comfort and so I bought another pair!
However, I swapped to a Selle SMP Extra saddle ~18 months ago and the Castellis no longer give the same comfort. Watched a Neil Stanbury youtube vid yesterday and he reckons the front bump of the Selle SMPs is usually best ~14mm below the rear ridge. Just lowered saddle front ~10mm, we shall see if that works...
However, I swapped to a Selle SMP Extra saddle ~18 months ago and the Castellis no longer give the same comfort. Watched a Neil Stanbury youtube vid yesterday and he reckons the front bump of the Selle SMPs is usually best ~14mm below the rear ridge. Just lowered saddle front ~10mm, we shall see if that works...
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I too have fallen into the Progetto X2 trap, all my bibs are Castelli now with that type of pad. Definitely the comfiest I've owned and it's nice to not have the urge to try other things (especially considering the price).
The only thing I do miss a bit which I can't see Castelli do in their range is the 'crotch warmer' that Gore do on some of their shorts. Basically the little bit of windproof material that sits inside the shorts around the front of the pelvis to stop the essentials getting too chilly when there is a bit of a nip in the air.
8 weeks back from 3 years on the sofa eating biscuits and i'm
- at least half a stone lighter
- at least 1.5mph faster over the same route of ~ 20 miles
In reconnecting with the sport I've had some realizations about what i like, and it's blasting around on a fast, twitchy race bike (I've done most of the ~350 miles I've done in those 8 weeks on an early 90s crit bike that doesn't even fit a 25mm tyre) for about 2, maybe 3 hours at a push. The type 1 fun of riding a bike fast as opposed to the type 2 fun of Epic Achievements. (And don't even mention bikepacking to me, i don't like camping either)
- at least half a stone lighter
- at least 1.5mph faster over the same route of ~ 20 miles
In reconnecting with the sport I've had some realizations about what i like, and it's blasting around on a fast, twitchy race bike (I've done most of the ~350 miles I've done in those 8 weeks on an early 90s crit bike that doesn't even fit a 25mm tyre) for about 2, maybe 3 hours at a push. The type 1 fun of riding a bike fast as opposed to the type 2 fun of Epic Achievements. (And don't even mention bikepacking to me, i don't like camping either)
Caporegime
I would love to do some longer rides but I simply don't have the time at the moment. 2 hours is generally my limit and most of my routes under 2 hours are 40km ish so I finish them in about 1:30. Fingers crossed I will get a chance to do some longer ones before the end of the summer.
Theres something lovely about taking the ride leisurely but its so hard not to hammer the downhills.
Theres something lovely about taking the ride leisurely but its so hard not to hammer the downhills.
Got headset play in my head….
I had slight wear on my steerer which I had repaired.
Rebuilt and I can feel very slight play when rocking the bike forwards/backwards with the front brake on.
I’m sure it’s just play in the brake callipers/pads as it doesn’t seem to do it if you turn the steering 90 degrees as much.
Hold the fork and move/wobble it there is a very small amount of play: but I think this is just the float in the bearing cage as they are angular contact split race bearings rather than something else.
I had slight wear on my steerer which I had repaired.
Rebuilt and I can feel very slight play when rocking the bike forwards/backwards with the front brake on.
I’m sure it’s just play in the brake callipers/pads as it doesn’t seem to do it if you turn the steering 90 degrees as much.
Hold the fork and move/wobble it there is a very small amount of play: but I think this is just the float in the bearing cage as they are angular contact split race bearings rather than something else.
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