Samsung 226BW Bad Caps warning

They were Panasonic + 1 Rubycon.

I am a complete noob as regards the new fangled electric soldering irons:)
I last soldered with one you heated up in a naked flame!
I had a solder wick but it didn't seem too much except burn my fingers as I was holding it too short.;)
 
Pilgrim57 said:
They were Panasonic + 1 Rubycon.

I am a complete noob as regards the new fangled electric soldering irons:)
I last soldered with one you heated up in a naked flame!
I had a solder wick but it didn't seem too much except burn my fingers as I was holding it too short.;)
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Panasonic and Rubycon are good quality, I'm sure you'll get many more years out of your screen.

Solder wick/braid does make a good heatsink, being made of copper. Often using a higher heat for a shorter amount of time results is less burned fingers or PCB's. :)

Using a naked flame to solder can be done, I've used one of those little creme brulee blowtorches before now. :o
 
MikeHunt79 said:
The 'heat resistant solder' you speak of is probably lead free solder. It has a higher melting point that lead solder, so with larger traces you may find a 50W iron works better. A solder sucker is a handy tool also, but if a paperclip works for you then it gets the job done.

Nice to hear another monitor has been saved from a landfill, good job. :)
Click to expand...

I use Panasonic caps.
Got the soldering kit hoping for the best but not what I needed to do a better job. I just used the paper clip to clear the holes after most of the solder had been removed.

Landfill:confused: I take your point but I thought most electronics were sent to India or China for "recycling" these days. Sadly most people would rather replace than repair now [don't get me started on the lifespan of toasters]
 
Attu90 said:
Just stumbled across this thread, my 226bw is still going strong after many years of service but its nice to know there is a fix if it should develop this common fault :)
Click to expand...

I read the link to the other thread [see link above] a few years back when the problem first came to light then forgot all about it:o

I'd suggest you bookmark it just in case.
 
moogle said:
Where do you guys buy your capacitors? Apart from Farnell & eBay that is, or are they the only places to buy them from?
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There is also RSSS. They only sell some in packs of 5 but with them you'd still come under the £20 minimum order with Farnell. Got next day delivery with Farnell.
 
Pilgrim57 said:
There is also RSSS. They only sell some in packs of 5 but with them you'd still come under the £20 minimum order with Farnell. Got next day delivery with Farnell.
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RSSS? I couldn't find it, are you talking about RS Online?

Looks like Farnell is the only place. Maplins sell some but it's very limited range and they usually buy from places like Farnell and charge on top :D
 
moogle said:
RSSS? I couldn't find it, are you talking about RS Online?

Looks like Farnell is the only place. Maplins sell some but it's very limited range and they usually buy from places like Farnell and charge on top :D
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Oops:o maybe one too many S's this is what I meant
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/ got there from a link on their USA site
Have a look there.
Sorry for the confusion.
 
That one looks like a nice website, only downside is that I think they're not in the UK as the only shipping available is Fedex Intl and it's like £6 for £8 worth of capacitors :(
 
moogle said:
That one looks like a nice website, only downside is that I think they're not in the UK as the only shipping available is Fedex Intl and it's like £6 for £8 worth of capacitors :(
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I agree its always difficult when you only want small number if items, but then again I you run the risk of getting fake caps if you go somewhere like ebay. The other site you can try is Digikey, they also are US based but have a UK side, and have a massive range of components.
 
Bubo said:
I agree its always difficult when you only want small number if items, but then again I you run the risk of getting fake caps if you go somewhere like ebay. The other site you can try is Digikey, they also are US based but have a UK side, and have a massive range of components.
Click to expand...

Yeah, plus I suppose if I ever need to fix another monitor I won't have to buy more capacitors.

I saw digikey but didn't know it was available to the UK too, thanks! :)
 
revised board additional caps

My 226BW is now showing signs of failure. The screen takes 30 mins to 'warm' up, rather than the flashing as posted. However, my board is different to the on in the photo's; a later revision I guess, but still uses the CapXon capacitors.

My question is: can someone verify that I have chosen the correct/suitable cap replacements for C105 (100uF, 450V) and C118/C318 (22uF, 50V)

http://i.imgur.com/1WVuX.jpg


Code: 
My      Forum   Capacitor spec                        Panasonic
Model   Model                                         part
IP-43130A 
C105            100uF, 450v, 105 °C, 22mm D x 36mm H  EETHC2W101BA #
        C105    150uF, 450v, 105 °C, 20mm D x 42mm H  EETHC2W151CA / EET-ED2W151BA
C107    C107     47uF,  50v, 105 °C,  5mm D x 10mm H  EEU-FC1H470
        C110    820uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 20mm H  EEU-FM1E821L / EEU-FC1E821S *
C111    C111    820uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 20mm H  EEU-FM1E821L / EEU-FC1E821S *
C112            820uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 20mm H  EEU-FM1E821L / EEU-FC1E821S *
        C112    330uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 15mm H  EEU-FM1E331
C113            330uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 15mm H  EEU-FM1E331
C114            820uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 20mm H  EEU-FM1E821L / EEU-FC1E821S *
C118             22uF,  50v, 105 °C,  5mm D x 11mm H  EEU-FM1H220 #
        C301    680uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 17mm H  EEU-FM1E681
        C302    680uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 17mm H  EEU-FM1E681
C316            820uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 20mm H  EEU-FM1E821L / EEU-FC1E821S *
C317            820uF,  25v, 105 °C, 10mm D x 20mm H  EEU-FM1E821L / EEU-FC1E821S *
C318             22uF,  50v, 105 °C,  5mm D x 11mm H  EEU-FM1H220 #

Ahh that's better wrapping with code tags preserves leading spaces.

# C105 and C118/C318 apply only to my PSU board

* I'll use EEU-FC1E821S as recommended on another forum as these are 20mm high, the
821L's are 25mm high and that is all the clearance you have between the stand off post
and the back of the case (slightly less if you account for the plastic insulator).

Resize image please.
 
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This is unfamiliar territory for me.
The C318 looks OK
Are you sure the C105 needs replacing? Maybe the deposit on the outside is from the blown capacitors C316/7. I say this as this is a 450v & will either need time to discharge or you need something to safely discharge it. I bought one & it was "snap in" the legs were only 3 or 4mm. You would have to leave the current legs in the board to solder on to.

The uf must be the same but the volts can be higher. Check the rated hours some are only 1,000.
I got C105 replacement 150uf 450v EETEE2W151HJ as it was closest in d & l plus had a 3,000hrs rating [I didn't use it due to lack of courage to tackle the extra soldering].
Suggest you use silver solder.

Maybe someone else can offer more advice.
 
Replaced caps and happy to say I have a monitor that comes on straight away.

I have resized the image; 3188x3240 was a bit excessive, but was fine when viewed in FireFox - auto scaled I guess. My list of caps would be more readable if the leading spaces were not truncated.

You are right that not all the caps have blown, but given that the consesus view appears to rate CapXon products as 'cheap and nasty', I thought whilst the soldering iron is out I would replace them all.

As it turned out I did not replace the biggy (C105) or C318, but I have the panasonic replacements for them should they die on me.

I am no electronics wizard, so my soldering skills are basic (ie. this is the first time I have done anything to a PCB). The first cap soldered nicely giving a little mountain around the leads, but not all were so good; sometimes the solder would just ball up. But in the end I managed it, so I would recommend anyone have a go, just be patient and take your time.

I did not replace C318 because on the underside of the PCB there are quite a few close solder points and a surface mount component, so this time I steered clear and as for C105 I held back because I am not sure why I had problems soldering - too cold, too hot iron?
 
holtixxx said:
Replaced caps and happy to say I have a monitor that comes on straight away.

I did not replace C318 because on the underside of the PCB there are quite a few close solder points and a surface mount component, I am not sure why I had problems soldering - too cold, too hot iron?
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Glad your monitor is now working:)
I didn't replace my C107 for the same reason as your C318.
My soldering skills are poor so can't say if the iron was too hot or cold. I was using a 25w iron & that seem to struggle at times.
 
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