Samsung 226BW Bad Caps warning

Dano said:
Ebay - most etailers I found wanted silly money for shipping.
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Aye thanks for the pointer, only the 2 were bulging and found an auction for 2x820uf's so grabbed them, absolute lovely monitors though I really don't want to let it go (that and id have to buy 2 more and the misses wouldn't like it...)
 
I stress again make sure you open it up to find exactly which caps you have there are various models each with different caps.
I can vouch for h.m.comp on that auction site low postage very fast delivery for caps.
 
C64 said:
I stress again make sure you open it up to find exactly which caps you have there are various models each with different caps.
I can vouch for h.m.comp on that auction site low postage very fast delivery for caps.
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+1

Just make sure you match the capacitance (uF) value, match or exceed the voltage (V) value, and that your new caps will physically fit and you'll be fine.

Also try and order a decent brand, from a reputable source. Fake caps are sadly commonplace these days... :(

nxvpjs8dznmqmk3.jpg

:eek:
 
Dano said:
Christ, can that really be worth the time and effort to do?
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It is, unfortunately... :(

That said, I've ordered capacitors from China on ebay and they have been the genuine article, and it's not hard to measure capacitance if you have a half decent multimeter.

I don't want to put anyone off ebay, just to keep an eye out for fakes. :)
 
For the last couple of months my 206BW has done this, but now finally won't switch on; bad caps no doubt... been used pretty much every day for the last 5 years or so, might fix it not sure yet.

Been using it as a second monitor... just grabbed old SyncMaster 710N 17inch out of the loft... still working... very poor against P2450 though... noticed old Mitsubishi Diamondtron up there too... if I had the desk real estate I'd crank that thing up again.... I digress ;P

Cheers for the how to, will look into that if Samsung don't release the 950 series soon, soon, soon
 
My 2007 model is starting to go now, so better get the soldering iron out.
BTW is it 100% safe to solder about the PSU area of the board, is there anything you should avoid touching o.O?
 
I finally got around to fixing mine and it's been up and running for 30 minutes. I'm pleasantly surprised because I thought I'd made an arse of the soldering. :o

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! :)
 
8 - 9 months down the line this thread has saved another monitor XD I've been putting this off for weeks but I'm going to have to do it, rather annoying that my other monitor has started especially when its the same caps grr

Thanks once again!
 
i have noticed on mine some kinda a horizontal line flickering when playing games its on my second pc not like i use it mutch but i am not sure what could be it is it the caps ?
 
Got a 226BW when they first came out around March 2007, still using it, never had any problems with bulging caps with it yet.
Been used around 18 hours a day since new.
 
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Just to say some Samsung TV's suffer from bad caps, mine did it was constantly clicking when switched on. After some googleing I phoned Samsung and they arranged to fix it for free 2 1/2 years out of warranty.

It was a 52" LCD.

Prob mentioned it a few times on the forum but worth mentioning it again if it saves someone £££
 
Got three 226bw monitors here, recently went down to two because of flicking (and not using eyefinity at all)

Will post this thread in MM when I come to sell it.
 
A big thank you to to the people in this thread!
Special mention to Cenuij for the photo & caps list & to Diggsy who gave me the link to this great info.

I have just repaired my monitor:eek: & it works:D
Never again, as my eyesight is not good enough for stress-free soldering unless I get those glasses the surgeons use in the operating theatre.

Only C111 appeared to have gone but replaced all except
C107 as I couldn't figure out the solder points in what appeared to be a group. I did buy a C105 , more expensive than the rest put together, but it was a snap in, legless, as most of the type are from Farnell & so there was no way to solder it to the board.

A final point on Caps. Farnell have a minimum of £20 spend so I got the soldering kit from them as well. RSSS only appear to sell most of the caps in x5 packets or x2: C105 is the exception

Apart from the soldering, I had a 25w iron & maybe needed a finer tip than 4-5mm. Samsung seemed to have used melt resistant solder:( Use a paper clip to clear the holes. Everything else went smoothly apart from the "pink & blue" connectors that were a real challenge to remove.

Hopefully I'll get another 5 years out of the monitor now:cool:
 
Pilgrim57 said:
Hopefully I'll get another 5 years out of the monitor now:cool:
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If you use decent quality replacement caps then it will probably last longer than when it was new if you know what I mean.

The 'heat resistant solder' you speak of is probably lead free solder. It has a higher melting point that lead solder, so with larger traces you may find a 50W iron works better. A solder sucker is a handy tool also, but if a paperclip works for you then it gets the job done.

Nice to hear another monitor has been saved from a landfill, good job. :)
 
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