Samsung 226BW Bad Caps warning

PCM2 said:
They run significantly cooler, yes. Personally I would quite like to open up monitors I review and take a look inside, although maybe other reviewers don't share that fascination. I don't think the review sample suppliers (often a manufacturer's PR company) would be too hot on the idea of people dismantling their products as part of the review, though.
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Yep I can see that a reviewer may be refused products to review if they did take the products apart... Which is a bit of a shame but there are some other publications that show the innards of other products such as hifi gear...
C64 said:
I did it ! works like a charm now touch wood.

Everything replaced with nichicon caps.
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:cool: Good stuff, it works again, like a phoenix from the flames...
 
Now to sell it on that auction site and upgrade !
joke

surprisingly easy to do with sub standard soldering skills
This is the board I had
Image0117-1-1.jpg

#1= 820uf 25v 105c
#2= 820uf 25v 105c
#3= 22uf 50v 105c
#4= 330uf 25v 105c
#5= 820uf 25v 105c
#6= 820uf 25v 105c
#7= 820uf 25v 105c
#8= no idea and don't think it's important is housed in rubber
#9= as above unrelated
#10= 47uf 50v 105c

#1 take the screw out of the bottom of the stand
Image0121.jpg

#2 remove these 3 screws
Image0122.jpg

#3 remove middle screw and the other screws far left and far right
Image0125.jpg

#4 turn monitor screen side down and pull gently on this part of the casing the casing should come off with gentle force but be careful as the front power switch and led cable needs to stay attached remove all the casing so you are left with the screen and metal housing
Image0127.jpg

#5 push this metal casing bit slightly to the left as in pic and remove
Image0130.jpg

#6 remove this connection from screen to board it has two little hinge things either side just push them in and gently remove cable
Image0129.jpg

#7 this is what you will see and what you want the power board make note of how that metal strip fits in nearest the camera in the pic below
Image0133.jpg

#8 I forgot to take a pic but to the right side of the power board as you see it in the pic above are 4 connections make a note of how they plug in

carefully remove these before unscrewing/removing power board easy to remove they are like fan cables etc just unhinge with a small flat head screwdriver and pull

in mine it was

top cables
blue at top pink at bottom

bottom cables
pink at top
blue at bottom

Also in the above pic note the cable on the right in my case the blue side is at the bottom as you face it make note of this position and remove cable

#9 remove the 3 screws 2x black 1x silver from power board
#10 remove power board slide it to the right as you'll notice it slots in kinda
#11 get soldering

Whilst doing all this I also took the liberty to colour in the front blue led power switch with a permanent marker thus dimming it, it's attached to the front casing via 2 screws.
 
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Glad to see you got this all sorted in the end :)

Though it does make me wonder how many of these have ended up in rubbish tips because of this very minor issue?
 
yea i have also since seen people selling power boards on auction sites might be worth just buying one if you don't fancy soldering.
Although maybe those boards have capxon caps on too.

I am not sure how many revisions of the power board there are in this either but next time you have a monitor start going bad (out of warranty) maybe open it up and take a look at the caps because it could well be a simple fix for you.

I think the lesson to be learnt here is sell your monitor and upgrade before the warranty is up.
 
Diggsy said:
Glad to see you got this all sorted in the end :)

Though it does make me wonder how many of these have ended up in rubbish tips because of this very minor issue?
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Quite a few I'd imagine...

Tons of dead electrical things return to China once they're deemed to be no longer working.
guiyulargestewastesiteo.jpg

The main reason is cost, it's cheaper to replace then repair in most cases, but this thread proves that a few relatively cheap replacement parts and some soldering is worthwhile...
 
well although my startup issues are fixed etc I still have this slight flickering at the top of my screen like i can see this web page address slight flickering.

Maybe i should replace the big capacitor ?

Edit: ahh looks like could be the vga lead as i moved it slightly in the socket on graphics card and flickering went
 
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I just stumbled across this thead and I have a 226BW that has same issues but I replaced it before christmas with a B2230. It's been sitting on my floor for past month but now after finding this thread I will try to repair it and then it can replace a 17 inch dell the other computer uses. Got it all taken apart easily just need to get some new caps at some point. Thanks for the advice in the thread.
 
Lot of good info on this thread now, it should almost be stickied, given how many people bought one of this range of screens as they received such glowing reviews.
 
Finally got some capacitors and got it fixed today. Already had the board out and took about 10mins to solder the new ones in and get it all closed up. Working like new now. Thanks for all the info in this thread.
 
PCM2 said:
Just as an update to this already very valuable thread. Samsung has confirmed their awareness of the issue and that they no longer use CapXon capacitors in their monitors - http://www.pcmonitors.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96.
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Nice! I don't even own the 226BW, but it's good to see that Samsung are going to be avoiding CapXon caps in future.

Do you know what brand they'll be using instead?
 
I'm afraid not (hopefully not another CrapXon clone). I have pressed this question to Samsung in response to their statement. I am happy that they didn't have some kind of 'deal with the CapXon devil' that meant that they couldn't/wouldn't change supplier though. :)
 
well i just crawled on my belly with my flys unzipped through this forums comically unnaproachable registration system to say THANK YOU!!! to all the people on this post. i bought my 22bw same as the op's from overclockers, about 43 seconds after the warranty expired the thing starts flickering and growing darker (its called mean time before failure, and yea they look at the lifetime of all components and design em to last just so long, im not getting another samsung) ... so i was about to throw away the thing that cost £280 when new, and at the last second thought id quickly search the internet for any advice. found this thread, read the extremely clear and easy to follow guide from the people, especially the first guy and took it apart, replaced the caps as it says for less than ten quid and now it works perfectly again. this is why i love the internet, people helping eachother for free.. and for me who isnt very good at taking things apart and fixing them to be able to do it is testament to the fact the person giving the instructions actually knows how to communciate and did a great job.. CHEERS!"" im a happy man :D
 
I am experiencing a similar problem with my 226BW(S Panel).

It's not exactly the same,it doesn't go black and it doesn't function properly when it's warm.In my case,there are lines and boxes all over the monitor and flickering and it's more visible on white/"soft" colors.

It started yesterday acting really crazy,constant flickering and I couldn't watch the monitor for more than 5 minutes.This morning it was better,happening once every 5 minutes and at a much lower scale than yesterday.

I was able to find only 2 caps out of 7 in the market,and when I opened it only one of them didn't have a straight top,it was like the ones in the pictures in this thread but with no sign of leaks.The others were fine.I replaced the damaged one but the problem is still here.

I have plugged in an old CRT with a VGA to DVI adapter and a LCD TV and they were fine.I also tried a different DVI cable and power cable.

I will buy all 7 capacitors and change them all just to be safe but I wonder,could something else cause this problem?The other caps seemed ok,but even if I change them I don't think it will help.
 
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So I came to my pc a few days ago and my oldest out of the two were blinking anyway long story short, its in bit right now and ive identified the bad capacitors, C110 and C111 this is going by the pic in #17

So I need 2x say Rubycon 820uF, 25v, 105 °C, 25ZLH820M10X20's?

Anyone know a place to buy capacitors? XD

Edit: found some panasonic ones so just need 2 of these

" Radial Capacitor 25V 820uF 105°C
Low Impedance
Long Life
Dimension 10mm x 20mm
Lead spacing 5mm"

?
 
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