Show the lads your Silverstone cases

ah gotcha now :D

I'll do a test this evening. I've a third Xigmatek at home too which i was wondering if i should use it on the TRUE. Idle temps with one are @ 40,39,40,39 which is down 4deg on the Zalman i had in there before.

Load temps after an hour of prime were @ 84,81,80,80 (peak) which is down a couple of deg so i'm thinking the extra fan will make a difference and wont look too bad inside.

I'll do the test with:
Noctua off + 1 fan on TRUE - 15mins Prime
Noctua off + 2 fans on TRUE - 15mins Prime
Noctua on + 2 fans on TRUE - 15mins Prime
 
here are my results from my little test. The temps are at least 5deg higher than real temp i've noticed. can't find what tjmax is or if this is 100% accurate. Still good anyways

TRUE + 1 Fan - Kama ON - 15min test (bottom right corner)

Test1.jpg


TRUE + 1 Fan - Kama OFF - 15min test (bottom right corner)

Test2.jpg


TREU + 2 Fans - Kama ON - 15min test (bottom right corner)

Test3.jpg
 
Some good results there Magic, looks like the TRUE with 2 fans and Kama ON is the best then.

I'd be interested to see what your GPU temps are like from GPU-Z, especially the VDDC temps - if you could have a bash at that when you've got the time I'd be very grateful m8.

I'm seriously considering taking off my AC Twin Turbo and replacing the stock cooler on my Powercolor 4870 as earlier today I had about a 1hr Crysis session and saw the VDDC temps hit 100 degrees! Way higher than they used to in the old case with a side fan blowing over them. I know that's still within their spec, but I don't want them that high if I can help it. I'm not sure what's gonna be best - replace the stock cooler I think first and if still an issue then I might have to look at using an Antec Spot Cooler, or poss modding the case window to accept a 120mm intake fan.

Any suggestions out there guys?
 
One thing i hate about this controller (and i bought two but only using one) is the huge gaps above and below the drive bays... it's going to look real crap with my fans and stuff installed with it.

Might be the fault of lian li though so i wont cry just yet until it's all set up.

I will say though if i didn't have a large radiator to fit inside the case i woudl have went for a FT-01.
 
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Jorge said:
I'm going to buy either a Kaze Master or Zalman MFC1 Plus fan controller. Which would you say suits the front panel better?
Click to expand...

Well personally I would say the Kaze, altho it can only control 4 fans against the Zalman's 6, it does have the 4 temp readouts as well and being digital is easier to check fan speeds etc at a glance imo. Both are good additions to the case, it's really a matter of personal preference.
 
Thanks magic, looks like it does drop the temps 1 or 2 degrees.

I'm not sure, the kama bay is £17 then I'd probably want a Noctua fan so all in over £30 plus the time involved fitting it, hmmm.
 
mr_x_plosion said:
Thanks magic, looks like it does drop the temps 1 or 2 degrees.

I'm not sure, the kama bay is £17 then I'd probably want a Noctua fan so all in over £30 plus the time involved fitting it, hmmm.
Click to expand...


fitting it is a breeze mate. Takes 15mins tops.

As for price i can see where you're getting at. £30 just to drop a couple of Deg. I'd like to think that with the Kama on + 2 fans on TRUE it draws more air in from it thus helping to keep it cool.

Maybe i'll test that tonight. Kama Off + 2 fans on TRUE.

rock and roll friday night for me!
 
Well, I've swopped the Silent Eagles back to the P12's

3471015572_4720ec3e04_b.jpg


And moved the Kaze Master up a few slots

3471018848_5837978d24_b.jpg


I prefer the look of the controller up high, and it means I can actually read the display without having to climb out of my chair :D

One thing that's a bit funny, though, the RPM sensing from the P12's is a bit whack. On full it reports 1350rpm, @ 2/3 it reports 960rpm, but at 1/3 it's all over the place from 1050 to 1290 :confused:

Can't hear a difference from 1/3 to full, so it's staying on full :p
 
Hi Doug,

Just checked my Noctua's with my Kaze and the NF-S12 (1200rpm) that I have as rear exhaust shows 1320 or 1350 on max and when dialled down it seems to follow linearly until it goes to 0 and the warning buzzer sounds. I have an NF-P12 as the pull fan on my CPU and that shows 1290 or 1320 at max and also seems to scale well as it's turned down before hitting 0 and alarming.

I also can't hear any appreciable difference between low and full so I do the same and leave them on full atm.
 
Got the same controller (not the aluminium finish one though) and i believe it has something to do with voltage when it starts beeping. I could be wrong. My 2000rpm sharkoons work quite well on it, anywhere from nearly 2000rpm to 600rpm. ;)

I wish i had a fortress. :(
 
Few random shots of my new TJ09B-W that popped up in clearance, I'm still saving £££ for the stuff to put in it - but having the case in front of me is helping my motivation :D

1179381.jpg

ibi615.jpg

euo5m1.jpg
 
monkehhh said:
Few random shots of my new TJ09B-W that popped up in clearance, I'm still saving £££ for the stuff to put in it - but having the case in front of me is helping my motivation :D
Click to expand...

Awesome casing! I've built a lot of computers, in a lot of different cases. The TJ09 and the TJ07 are by far the best cases i've ever worked with. Both are a joy and give good scope to watercool. The TJ09 is a little less watercooling friendly than the TJ07, ignore anyone who says the TJ09 is an aircooling only case. You do find the odd noodle out there who comes up with rubbish like that. lol
 
Looking good there, I was almost tempted by the TJ09. Lots of hmm-ing and ahh-ing when looking at that and the Fortress.

Had her open again today: took out the cathode and EL string, wasn't quite happy with the look; and swopped in the new D0 :)
 
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