Caporegime
I was going to settle for a mars bar and a legit mint Celica from Birmingham.
Sorry mines from Wales, but im sure we can work something out.
I was going to settle for a mars bar and a legit mint Celica from Birmingham.
Pass. I want a mint one.Sorry mines from Wales, but im sure we can work something out.
Pass. I want a mint one.
Nice! Was this on eBay for like 8k+
My new over priced hair dresser mobile, 2004 Euphonic MX5 with a GT25RS fitted running 243bhp/210ftlb along with lots of other choice mods. S14's are too steep and rare nowadays and the more modern stuff just doesn't get my juices flowing like I had hoped.
Money pit - check
Impractical - check
Lots of fun though and parts are still cheap enough for these that I don't feel bad hooning it about!
Nice! Was this on eBay for like 8k+
Pound for pound I do not think you can get much better than a turbo'd MX5.
@Rich1988 That looks clean. 2560RS?
If you wanted to turn it into more of a money pit you could build another engine on the side with a set of Rods/Pistons and a 2560R will quite happily make 300hp or so.
My old one was a riot to drive at 280hp/250ft-lbs
bit north of that yea.. haha a LOT of money for a Mk2.5 Mx5, however not including what he paid for it it has over £14,000 worth of invoices for parts and work and it has 22,000 miles so I think I paid a fair price for what it is. You could get a far more modern car for the money but does not appeal! It will be a summer daily
only as well.
They are good fun that's for sure, I always came back to the Mk2.5 because I like them more than the Mk1 and they don't have the electical aids and the more refined feeling of the mk3 onwards.
2560R not RS my typo error.
That's the plan haha, I have some bits I want to do first, such as replacing the fuji diff with a torsen and sourcing a 6 speed for when I change the engine, but the plan is to get another 1.8 vvt engine and upgrade pistons and rods etc as and when parts and time allow then transplant it. 280rwhp or around 300bhp at the crank is my ultimate goal really which should be achievable with a few bolt ons and engine parts!
CM always looks like great crack. Is it a bit clique'y though?
There's better options on the diff front now. I'd have to find the company name but there's a guy over in Wales that rebuilds Fuji's with better frictions etc. A lot of the rally guys use them, a good working Fuji is better than a Torsen.
Engine recipe is fairly simple. Rods, pistons, ATI/Fluidampr and Oil pump gears.
It's probably personal but I feel the 5 speed ratios suit a higher powered car as the 6 speed feels a little too close with that much power. If you're happy with keeping the torque flat in the 240-250ft-lbs range it'll still happily make 300hp peak at 6500rpm and keep the 5 speed in one piece
Torsens are a bit naff really, they are just the best commonly available diff for them after they've covered a good few miles.Can echo this. The Fuji's are now being rebuilt and when in good order is better than the torsen.
Torsens are a bit naff really, they are just the best commonly available diff for them after they've covered a good few miles.
Proper LSD's are usually plated like the Fuji. I think the Fuji is usually avoided because they had a tendency to wear out what seemed a bit prematurely, right?
There's better options on the diff front now. I'd have to find the company name but there's a guy over in Wales that rebuilds Fuji's with better frictions etc. A lot of the rally guys use them, a good working Fuji is better than a Torsen.
Engine recipe is fairly simple. Rods, pistons, ATI/Fluidampr and Oil pump gears.
It's probably personal but I feel the 5 speed ratios suit a higher powered car as the 6 speed feels a little too close with that much power. If you're happy with keeping the torque flat in the 240-250ft-lbs range it'll still happily make 300hp peak at 6500rpm and keep the 5 speed in one piece
I believe it's these guysRegards the diff I had no idea, I always thought having owned MX5's that the fuji was to be avoided, the fuji I have bites well but clearly has been put on rollers as on the last oil change it had a tab in the oil (despite being 22k old). if you can dig it out I would appreciate it!
I believe it's these guys
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-Mx...-/324558432208?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
The Fuji has only ever been the one to avoid as they're so broken to being knackered because of the tabs breaking off, functionally they're superior as a Torsen still requires some level of torque being transmitted to both wheels before it'll lock up.