Sim racers - what are you running?

ahar said:
Better than iracing? I'm just dipping a toe into racing as I've always hated using a controller whereas a wheel and pedals might work better. I do sprints and hillclimbs in a caterham IRL so I'm looking for something that is as realistic as possible.

Have bought a G29 set up for now as I'm not sure whether this will be for me, and don't want to drop any serious cash for the moment. Every £ spent on this is a £ spent not racing for real!
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I've not used IRacing very much. If I'm online I'll use ACC.

I was just surprised how noticeably better RF2 feels compared to PC2 and AC.
 
ahar said:
Better than iracing? I'm just dipping a toe into racing as I've always hated using a controller whereas a wheel and pedals might work better. I do sprints and hillclimbs in a caterham IRL so I'm looking for something that is as realistic as possible.
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I drive iRacing quite a bit but I've owned and driven many 7 type cars and the the caterhams in AMS2 are fantastic.
 
EddScott said:
I know this thread is more for rig equipment but just wanted to comment on RF2.

I'm off to the 'ring next weekend and have been practising using PCars2 (sometimes AC) as these have Lancer Evos to use (I'm taking my 9GT)

Not looking at times, it's a tourist day. Just want to have a rough idea what is coming and make sure I can stay out of my own way :)

I tried RF2 last night for the first time. Bought the 'Ring track and an M2CS. RF2 feels so much better than other sims. I have an Alpha Mini, P2000 pedals and a 49" screen.

I've always been disappointed with my ACC times and not that I was particularly quick, RF2 gives far more realistic feedback.
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I do love the feel of RF2, the feedback feels far more pronounced, tyres feel like they can be pushed and grip has a scalable feel. I don’t dislike iracing but by comparison it doesn’t feel as realistic. Everything on iracing understeers if you push it too hard. Daniel Morad (GT3 Pro driver) did a really good video recently about where sims fall short of real life, it’s worth a watch. He talked about the mid corner feel of the AMG GT3 vs the real one he drove in a race and compared his steering input etc. he explained how much he wrestles with it on mid to corner exit, which it far more how I would describe the feeling I get in RF2.

(I’ve never driven a race car but have a track car on semi slicks)
 
Im rocking a sturdy Playseat challange with the stiffness kit, strapped a Thrustmaster T818 with it and the TLCM pedals. I use the P310 sparco wheel and a Samsung G5 Monitor thats connected to my main desk. Short of space but the rig does the job really well, besides when someone dive bombs on Monza T1 in ACC...
 
Anyone bought the Cadillac V-Series GTP car on iRacing? The force feedback feels really really light compared to other cars regardless of how much torque I run on my wheelbase (Asetek Invicta).

Also, now that the temperatures have returned to a reasonable level (for Scotland anyway) I can get back into the hobby without being a sweaty/stinky mess. Last full race was at the start of week 12 so nearly 5 weeks outta the cockpit. Managed my first win of the season last night in the Caddy GTP in IMSA after a few failed attempts.

Still wanna get a Streamdeck for a button box but don't wanna splurge on a brand new one.
 
Hey all -
Have a Moza R9 V2 and GS V2 wheel.

Bought it a while back but was in the box for a while due to time commitments.. anyways got it setup and had a little blast with my son with Iracing.
There seems to be 2 issues.

1) While he was playing there was the odd veer to the left or right when nothing was there (no kerb, bump etc.) - kind of yanked his hand.
2) Force feedback disappeared a few times - restarted computer / game etc and then it came back - random in doing this.

Opened a ticket with Moza - no reply in 12 days so first impressions with there CS has not been great. Hope this isnt faulty - if it is does it go back to OCUK or Moza?

There seems to be many different setups / power etc - am wondering if the FF was too high - but then again surely these things can run at 100% if you choose to? (think this was set to 70% power)
Thanks in advance.
 
conuk said:
Hey all -
Have a Moza R9 V2 and GS V2 wheel.

Bought it a while back but was in the box for a while due to time commitments.. anyways got it setup and had a little blast with my son with Iracing.
There seems to be 2 issues.

1) While he was playing there was the odd veer to the left or right when nothing was there (no kerb, bump etc.) - kind of yanked his hand.
2) Force feedback disappeared a few times - restarted computer / game etc and then it came back - random in doing this.

Opened a ticket with Moza - no reply in 12 days so first impressions with there CS has not been great. Hope this isnt faulty - if it is does it go back to OCUK or Moza?

There seems to be many different setups / power etc - am wondering if the FF was too high - but then again surely these things can run at 100% if you choose to? (think this was set to 70% power)
Thanks in advance.
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I have the R5 wheel and one day last week suddenly lost ffb and it was due to alt tabbing out of the game. I only found out when I alt tabbed back to the game

Won't be your problem but hopefully it is
 
billyboyRAB said:
I have the R5 wheel and one day last week suddenly lost ffb and it was due to alt tabbing out of the game. I only found out when I alt tabbed back to the game

Won't be your problem but hopefully it is
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Yeah certainly didnt alt tab out of game but will note this.

Anyone else had the ffb disappear?
Not sure if it's software or hardware issue.
 
Theres a few reports of FFB going after a while on the R9 recently, although i have not had a problem.

Try contacting moza on their discord, as this seems to get a response
 
conuk said:
Hey all -
Have a Moza R9 V2 and GS V2 wheel.

Bought it a while back but was in the box for a while due to time commitments.. anyways got it setup and had a little blast with my son with Iracing.
There seems to be 2 issues.

1) While he was playing there was the odd veer to the left or right when nothing was there (no kerb, bump etc.) - kind of yanked his hand.
2) Force feedback disappeared a few times - restarted computer / game etc and then it came back - random in doing this.

Opened a ticket with Moza - no reply in 12 days so first impressions with there CS has not been great. Hope this isnt faulty - if it is does it go back to OCUK or Moza?

There seems to be many different setups / power etc - am wondering if the FF was too high - but then again surely these things can run at 100% if you choose to? (think this was set to 70% power)
Thanks in advance.
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Ping bainzy in moza discord and he will try and help u
 
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EddScott said:
I've not used IRacing very much. If I'm online I'll use ACC.

I was just surprised how noticeably better RF2 feels compared to PC2 and AC.
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RF2 has had a sketchy past, but imo is one of the best out there, and is being worked on now with regular updates with great new content,
The btcc content is awesome
Join Low fuel motor sports for online play, that tries to mimic iracing safty rating experience for free! https://lowfuelmotorsport.com/
 
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Hi all, looking at dipping my toe into sim racing. After a good dig around I'm thinking of going for the Moza R5 bundle with the upgrade to the brake pedal.
As this is one of the weaker units on the market torque wise am I missing anything by not initially going for a stronger unit?

Any other recommendations for a mid level wheel/base/pedals?
 
Rikk said:
Hi all, looking at dipping my toe into sim racing. After a good dig around I'm thinking of going for the Moza R5 bundle with the upgrade to the brake pedal.
As this is one of the weaker units on the market torque wise am I missing anything by not initially going for a stronger unit?

Any other recommendations for a mid level wheel/base/pedals?
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I was the same.
Its a bit like Mcdonalds when you go large.... you get sucked into the price or in this case the power.
Im guessing your main driver has to be the cost. If you can afford it go R9/R12 and that will be a keeper for a long time (especially now there is a cheaper wheel than the GS V2 that I ended up with - gorgeous wheel but £450 just for the wheel)
If funds are less then the R5 will be good - and save for some better pedals down the line - the pedals shouldn't be overlooked for consistent laps.
If you have never had a DD wheel the R5 will be a very good introduction.

One thing I absolutely hate mind is the clicky gear shifts on the GSV2 (even with noise-dampening pads on!) - gone from a louder belted wheel to a nice quiet Direct Drive R9 - but the shifters drive me nuts.
I would have loved the R9 - a cheaper wheel - and better pedals than the lite, but wasnt an option at the time.
 
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conuk said:
I was the same.
Its a bit like Mcdonalds when you go large.... you get sucked into the price or in this case the power.
Im guessing your main driver has to be the cost. If you can afford it go R9/R12 and that will be a keeper for a long time (especially now there is a cheaper wheel than the GS V2 that I ended up with - gorgeous wheel but £450 just for the wheel)
If funds are less then the R5 will be good - and save for some better pedals down the line - the pedals shouldn't be overlooked for consistent laps.
If you have never had a DD wheel the R5 will be a very good introduction.

One thing I absolutely hate mind is the clicky gear shifts on the GSV2 (even with noise-dampening pads on!) - gone from a louder belted wheel to a nice quiet Direct Drive R9 - but the shifters drive me nuts.
I would have loved the R9 - a cheaper wheel - and better pedals than the lite, but wasnt an option at the time.
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I have heard (pun intended) how loud those gs pedels are but diddnt realise it was still loud even with the dampers on.

If you can afford a r9 /r12 I would get that.
 
Hi.

Interesting seeing comments on Moza and various manufacturers in this thread.

I have Fanatec DD pro, Fanatec V2 pedals and a Fanatec SQ1.5 shifter for when I want to use H pattern shifting. The shifter feels very nice but it suffers from the infamous mis-shift occasionally. Not terribly often but I no longer use it because of its occasional occurrence. It can be a real pain in the butt when it happens during an online race.
So I've been sticking with sequential paddle shifts for the time being.

Of course I've looked at the supposed "fixes" for this online and tried them. Most suggest the insulation tape mod an an internal pcb of the shifter. It doesn't work. Nope. None work.

So I'm after suggestions for an alternative, good quality, reliable H shifter I can use with my Fanatec rig on my PC. The Thrustmaster TH8 is ok but not quite up to the feel of the Fanatec. Any suggestions please?
 
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